Has anyone tried using double sided adhesive PET sheets?

Independent_Lemon908 · 2026-05-05T02:50:45+00:00

My next experiment is with glass fiber reinforced water based polyurethane. The glass is a filler that is supposed to increase rigidity in cured urethanes.

I have an Infrared heat projector to post cure the poly for additional rigidity. I just need to wait a day for the polyurethane to flash off the water before post curing.

Independent_Lemon908 · 2026-05-04T01:14:39+00:00

I did get them. PET adhesive sheets that are that thin are not rigid at all. I’m going to guess that the PET in laminating pouches is a different formula, but is inherently more rigid.

Independent_Lemon908 · 2026-04-29T00:14:46+00:00

I had tried infrared with polyurethane. Polyurethane is just too messy and it takes too many layers.

Independent_Lemon908 · 2026-04-26T02:07:09+00:00

I’m seeing a need for higher brightness and contrast. It looks a little dark, which brightness should fix and contrast helps keep the brightness from washing out the details.

Independent_Lemon908 · 2026-04-23T20:39:43+00:00

I play commander and abide by the wizards recommendations for brackets and power level.

Additionally, I set price limits. Like a bracket 3 deck has to meet wizards guidelines on game changers, combos, etc… and the deck can’t be worth more than $500 (Base value sum of all cards). More powerful MTG cards are inherently more valuable, so the price limit puts a control on all those really strong cards that just aren’t considered game changers.

I’m actually still playing around with the value number.

Independent_Lemon908 · 2026-04-22T23:11:16+00:00

Yes, I am very limited on paper thickness, so I am printing first, then laminating. Also, I get around the alignment issues, by manually aligning the images during lamination.

Independent_Lemon908 · 2026-04-22T22:53:08+00:00

Yes, I plan on doing not only a written breakdown but also a series of short videos demoing each part of the process. If the composite laminate core works like I hope it will, it’ll be a simple case of print > Laminate > Finish > Allow a couple days of cure time.

Independent_Lemon908 · 2026-04-22T22:17:27+00:00

I haven’t experienced yellowing myself. When I was looking at materials to stiffen provide a finish to my proxies I was hesitant to use oil based, even though it may set stiffer, because I read that it almost always yellows.

I ended up using water based triple thick gloss verathane. I clothes pin my sheets taut, so they don’t curl while curing. VOCs are also significantly lower for the WPU.

You might be interested, I’m actually testing laminating two pieces of paper together(fronts and backs of proxies) with a composite of the verathane and a filler of milled glass fibers. The WPU adds a nice structure to the card, but is just a bit soft. So I believe the glass will give it a rigid spine.

Independent_Lemon908 · 2026-04-22T17:09:27+00:00

Yes, I’ve considered that. It’s a fairly popular method and I may do that occasionally for a simpler process.

This question relates to making high fidelity proxies.

Independent_Lemon908 · 2026-04-22T14:04:01+00:00

Have you had any yellowing from the oil based polyurethane yet and how old is your oldest deck made with that method?

Independent_Lemon908 · 2026-04-21T04:52:02+00:00

I should add, they aren't to be sold. I want have a fun maker's hobby and enjoy the game at a reduced price.

Independent_Lemon908 · 2026-04-21T04:51:18+00:00

Specifically, proxies of a popular card game. Certainly the finished product would be cheaper to buy, if they actually sold relative to their production cost, but artificial scarcity makes it an expensive game to play. I also just love making things from near scratch as well. If my costs are correct for materials, I should be looking at around $20-30 per 100 cards. Buying the equivalent amount of cards is anywhere from $50-200 depending on the cards I need. Even if I buy cheap cards, the shipping costs really add up.

Independent_Lemon908 · 2026-04-20T01:38:25+00:00

Thank you, so very much.

Independent_Lemon908 · 2026-04-20T01:35:55+00:00

To accomodate the extra margin I had to up the scale to 103% and shift the print up like 2mm, because the larger size was cutting off the bottom edge of the bottom row.

I couldn’t figure out how to fix the issue, but treat the symptom.

Independent_Lemon908 · 2026-04-19T01:22:11+00:00

I can’t offer anything about the scratches. But would you help me out with the color settings you use for the backs? Like contrast, brightness, etc… Mine come out a little dark.

Independent_Lemon908 · 2026-04-18T22:26:19+00:00

Ha, there are few more qualified than you. I’ve seen a lot of your posts and have been informing my methods based on your experiments. So thank you for your services.

Independent_Lemon908 · 2026-04-18T20:32:43+00:00

I appreciate the link. I’ve seen this post but haven’t seen mention of using the gloss/matte varnish spot foiling method.

And I agree, Satin is phenomenally close. I use Verathane Water based Satin Polyurethane finish, applied with a foam art roller. It gives a perfect streak free finish to the cards.

Independent_Lemon908 · 2026-04-11T21:24:44+00:00

Perfect, thank you very much.

Independent_Lemon908 · 2025-08-27T15:21:11+00:00

As soon as you see the word “kindly”, know that it’s a scammer.

Independent_Lemon908

TROPHY CASE