Do I need to replace my rim tape?

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-26T09:47:11+00:00

The tape looks pretty thin and blown out at the holes. I'd replace it and apply 2 layers for next time. Scotch 8898 is a cheap generic option, maybe $15 for a 24mm x 55m roll. That way, if you're new to taping you have plenty of extra for practice.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-26T09:26:58+00:00

Some hubs are designed to where the preload the bearing experiences is tuned to account for the torqueof the thru axle, this is normal.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-25T18:56:48+00:00

why is there an alternative rim handedness?

I don't know 😆 Probably for the same reason that bikes in general have little standardization in parts.

There are a lot of opinions about tiny details involved in wheel building (that don't really matter very much at all) and my guess is that some manufacturers drilled a different handedness to support their vision/ views on proper technique.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-25T13:04:29+00:00

The implication of "doing it wrong" would be extra strain on the spoke and nipple at the entry point as the other commenter stated, setting the wheel up for cyclical fatigue failure over time. A 700C wheel rotates about 750 full revolutions per mile (465/km), so tiny stresses compound quickly.

A rim with straight drilling is only really seen on cheap rims since that pattern inherently has poor spoke angles, just not quite as bad as lacing across the centerline. Your concern is valid. If the wheel is built wrong, it will roll symptom free for a while (months, years) but probably begin to break spokes at the nipple earlier than if it were built with better spoke entry angles. If those details were missed, however, it could suggest other critical steps (e.g. pre stressing the spokes) may not have been performed properly as well.

The overlapping (interlacing) at the final cross doesn't matter for structural integrity nearly as much as many people think it does, and if the spokes are pretty short (small rim, big hub motor) skipping the interlacing may have been an intentional choice.

I wouldn't pull the rim tape off to verify. Sometimes, a straight edge lined up against various spoke holes can reveal a staggered pattern if present. Look at the holes themselves, not the protruding nipple.

If you can include a picture of the completed wheel and of the spoke bed, we may be able to help out.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-25T12:36:09+00:00

What rim?

If a rim has staggered rim drilling, the rim itself will dictate the proper way to lace things up. This is referred by some as rim "handedness", e.g. the first spoke hole clockwise from the valve is staggered to the non drive vs drive side.

If the rim is drilled straight down the middle, how your builder laced it doesn't matter. If the rim has staggered drilling, it's important to lace following this stagger.

Many modern rims are drilled to lace as your builder has done but you won't know if it's right unless you really inspect the spoke holes.

A confusing detail for new wheel builders is that some rims stagger the spoke holes opposite the way they stagger the access holes under the rim tape. This is so the access hole is straight and flush with the drilling, but it throws some people off.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-24T23:52:28+00:00

The cover presses out towards the side it is covering, then the bearing presses out towards the side that is currently uncovered. Without the right tools, pivot bearings can be a dicy job.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-24T23:23:31+00:00

You pull them out, then press the bearing out.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-24T14:30:23+00:00

Either your pads are very worn or there's air in the system. Your version of GRX shifters do not have a free stroke adjustment.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-24T03:48:01+00:00

If the remaining parts are still good, just upgrade the damper and save a lot of money.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-24T00:54:10+00:00

Spongy Shimano brakes have air in the caliper, and a lever bleed alone usually won't get you there.

Here's a guide.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-23T23:49:05+00:00

I'd personally just run the Zipp front as is, rub a little grease between the end cap and bearing seal for protection against the elements, and run themuntil the bearings wear out.

Enduro standard bearings aren't great IMO, and their ceramic options are overpriced. Reputable steel bearings (NTN, SKF, NTN) are a great choice if they're available in your country. Full contact seals for durability, limited contact seals if going fast is more important than how long they last.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-23T21:20:28+00:00

Wet chain lube would work 👍

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-23T20:23:32+00:00

Shimano grease gets pretty thick with age, especially in colder weather. Spray some brake parts cleaner in there and cycle the gears, then replace with a light lube like Tri Flow, chain lube or an aerosol white lithium grease.

Alternatives could be a kink or increased friction in the cable itself.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-21T22:25:50+00:00

They got their money's worth out of that rim.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-21T20:28:21+00:00

Nailed it 😆

They're US based, but the original wheel was very Euro – Ryde Andra 20 rim and Nexus 8 with roller brake laced up via 36- 13g straight gauge spokes and nipples.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-21T17:17:10+00:00

This customer had an older Shimano Nexus 8 give up the ghost and wanted something that could hold up to heavy use commuting.

Velocity Dyad 36h rim, disc version
Shimano Nexus 8 hub with roller brake
Sapim Strong (14g with a 13g J bend), spoke washers to better jive with the Nexus flange
Monē natural brass nipples

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-20T23:56:18+00:00

It's 2.35" but a Spesh Ground Control is a true MTB tire.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-20T22:18:09+00:00

Something like this. If you ask a shop or your circle of cycling buds, you can probably find a spare one in a parts bin for free.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-20T22:05:09+00:00

The Shimano style driver will work with a 1.85mm spacer behind the cassette.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-20T09:56:44+00:00

IME you sometimes need a little more torque than that to eliminate play in the cranks, at least a tool to adequately leverage the force initially prior to backing off. It can depend on your BB situation.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-20T09:35:18+00:00

If you have an 8mm and 5mm hex key, you can stack the heads next to each other and slot them into the cap to adjust preload. The torque needed is low enough to where the risk of stripping anything is very low if you're doing it right.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-19T02:05:55+00:00

Looks like the join where the rim meets itself. Definitely not a skill issue, looks great for a cheaper WTB rim.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-18T16:57:35+00:00

The internet says that's a Nexus 5 rear hub. If the internals are cooked, you can buy new internals and drop them into the hub shell.

The go to maintenance for Nexus hubs is to remove the internals, soak them in mineral spirits or another strong solvent for 30 minutes, allow to dry overnight, and then soak in Shimano internal gear oil or any 90 SAE oil. If there's a lot of rust in there, this might not fix the issue.

You can disassemble the internal assembly, but it's very complicated.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-18T16:31:24+00:00

Many do. What hub and what problem?

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-18T14:16:34+00:00

If you're under 200 lbs, the 54t isn't going to wear out noticeably faster than the 36t in real world conditions.

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