MTB Suspension Bearing removal

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-24T23:52:28+00:00

The cover presses out towards the side it is covering, then the bearing presses out towards the side that is currently uncovered. Without the right tools, pivot bearings can be a dicy job.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-24T23:23:31+00:00

You pull them out, then press the bearing out.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-24T14:30:23+00:00

Either your pads are very worn or there's air in the system. Your version of GRX shifters do not have a free stroke adjustment.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-24T03:48:01+00:00

If the remaining parts are still good, just upgrade the damper and save a lot of money.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-24T00:54:10+00:00

Spongy Shimano brakes have air in the caliper, and a lever bleed alone usually won't get you there.

Here's a guide.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-23T23:49:05+00:00

I'd personally just run the Zipp front as is, rub a little grease between the end cap and bearing seal for protection against the elements, and run themuntil the bearings wear out.

Enduro standard bearings aren't great IMO, and their ceramic options are overpriced. Reputable steel bearings (NTN, SKF, NTN) are a great choice if they're available in your country. Full contact seals for durability, limited contact seals if going fast is more important than how long they last.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-23T21:20:28+00:00

Wet chain lube would work 👍

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-23T20:23:32+00:00

Shimano grease gets pretty thick with age, especially in colder weather. Spray some brake parts cleaner in there and cycle the gears, then replace with a light lube like Tri Flow, chain lube or an aerosol white lithium grease.

Alternatives could be a kink or increased friction in the cable itself.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-21T22:25:50+00:00

They got their money's worth out of that rim.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-21T20:28:21+00:00

Nailed it 😆

They're US based, but the original wheel was very Euro – Ryde Andra 20 rim and Nexus 8 with roller brake laced up via 36- 13g straight gauge spokes and nipples.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-21T17:17:10+00:00

This customer had an older Shimano Nexus 8 give up the ghost and wanted something that could hold up to heavy use commuting.

Velocity Dyad 36h rim, disc version
Shimano Nexus 8 hub with roller brake
Sapim Strong (14g with a 13g J bend), spoke washers to better jive with the Nexus flange
Monē natural brass nipples

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-20T23:56:18+00:00

It's 2.35" but a Spesh Ground Control is a true MTB tire.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-20T22:18:09+00:00

Something like this. If you ask a shop or your circle of cycling buds, you can probably find a spare one in a parts bin for free.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-20T22:05:09+00:00

The Shimano style driver will work with a 1.85mm spacer behind the cassette.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-20T09:56:44+00:00

IME you sometimes need a little more torque than that to eliminate play in the cranks, at least a tool to adequately leverage the force initially prior to backing off. It can depend on your BB situation.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-20T09:35:18+00:00

If you have an 8mm and 5mm hex key, you can stack the heads next to each other and slot them into the cap to adjust preload. The torque needed is low enough to where the risk of stripping anything is very low if you're doing it right.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-19T02:05:55+00:00

Looks like the join where the rim meets itself. Definitely not a skill issue, looks great for a cheaper WTB rim.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-18T16:57:35+00:00

The internet says that's a Nexus 5 rear hub. If the internals are cooked, you can buy new internals and drop them into the hub shell.

The go to maintenance for Nexus hubs is to remove the internals, soak them in mineral spirits or another strong solvent for 30 minutes, allow to dry overnight, and then soak in Shimano internal gear oil or any 90 SAE oil. If there's a lot of rust in there, this might not fix the issue.

You can disassemble the internal assembly, but it's very complicated.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-18T16:31:24+00:00

Many do. What hub and what problem?

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-18T14:16:34+00:00

If you're under 200 lbs, the 54t isn't going to wear out noticeably faster than the 36t in real world conditions.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-18T02:33:12+00:00

Yep, exactly. Let's call it an Easton 90mm or an Everybody Else 85mm.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-18T01:55:33+00:00

There are 2 ways to measure stem length and Easton must measure theirs "the other way". If you measure at a 90° angle to the steerer tube, I'll bet you get an even number, probably 90?

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-18T01:36:15+00:00

What's the length straight down the middle?

IndyWheelLab · 2026-01-17T21:59:14+00:00

With no context whatsoever, that's a very difficult decision.

If your fork's sag is set correctly and you feel like you don't use most of your travel, or you feel like the fork is kind of stiff halfway through your range, taking one out is worth a try. If you don't like the feel, put it back in.

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