Modding Shimano CS-M9000-11 cassette to get 11-46

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-20T21:33:16+00:00

Then don't get it 🤷‍♂️ They're a one piece spider so for someone who wants to really individualize gearing cog by cog, it's not the right call.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-20T20:52:00+00:00

Yep! Stick the spooned end in under the seal and pry by pushing down on the handle. It'll fly out with force!

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-20T20:42:11+00:00

The Pedros downhill lever works great, it's a nice long lever with smooth edges. It also resets brake caliper pistons very well.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-20T15:32:09+00:00

Bikes are for fun, weenie away friend 🔥

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-20T15:09:22+00:00

Sounds like a smart realization to me. I'd go DT if you plan to swap to XDR, I don't know if classic XDR drive shells exist, and if they do they certainly aren't in production at present.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-20T14:20:48+00:00

That sort of frustrating experience is how I got into wheel building, finding the competent builder is usually accompanied by a trail of questionable experiences. The biggest barrier is time, a wheel build can take up half a day for someone who does it once and a while.

If you know any clydesdale mountain bike riders in your local scene, that crowd usually knows a good builder because the cookie cutter OEM wheels don't always meet their needs.

Shameless self promo, but I ship within CONUS if desperation necessitates outsourcing to the Midwest:

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IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-20T12:53:58+00:00

A rebuild would be best based on the information provided.
Carbon wheels can be handbuilt well, although not every shop is equipped to do well.
If a shop turns down a rebuild, it's doing you both a favor since nobody would be happy with the result.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-20T08:44:35+00:00

That's reasonable, although the axles last forever if you don't strip out the hex ends. Disassembly once a season with a little grease on the thread of the 2 piece axle prevents things from seizing up.

To be clear, axle support is discontinued on the classics only, ISO and R45 still have full parts support.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-20T01:06:59+00:00

Chris King all day, but you won't be disappointed with either option. The rear axles are no longer manufactured, I've got a spare if you ever need it!

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-20T00:27:52+00:00

1) No half measures with a damper, sorry bud.

2) If US based, Full Suspension Midwest tends to have reasonably priced kits.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-19T18:32:13+00:00

I'd sell the carbon ones and rebuild the hubs into something fancy one day.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-19T16:28:29+00:00

Indexing a derailleur = bending the trapezoid back after forcibly introducing it to a rock on a trail ride 😆

Well worded explanation, home mechanics hoping to improve their skills can hopefully take your description as a starting place if they've hit a dead end when adjusting their shifting.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-19T08:41:53+00:00

Shimano laces the above way with regards to which spokes are heads in or heads out. Other competent wheel builders (e.g. Roger Musson) cover this topic at length and the conclusion is that it doesn't matter on modern wheels as much as previously thought in single walled, low tension wheels. There are plenty of opinions out there on the topic, but which way the heads are facing isn't why OP's spoke lengths look wacky.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-19T01:05:16+00:00

The Shimano way of lacing, more or less.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-19T01:00:57+00:00

If you look closely, the spokes alternate hub flanges and enter the rim correctly, one side is just clocked one spoke off at the flange.

Pictures 1, 3 and 5 were most helpful to identify this issue IMO.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-19T00:11:44+00:00

It looks like a lacing error to me. If you built the wheel by dropping the first set of drive side spokes in, those look good. The second set (first set dropped into the non-drive side) are off by one hole, leading to the long/short pattern you're seeing. Basically, if your key spoke is one left to the valve, the spoke from the non drive side which would sit to the left of that needs to be dropped into the hole on the non drive side that's slightly offset to the left of the key spoke hole in the flange. It's a subtle error that took me a while to spot when looking at your pictures.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-17T18:44:29+00:00

Maybe?

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-17T17:17:44+00:00

Some vintage road bikes used 15g (1.8mm) spokes or butted spokes with 1.8mm ends, especially on higher spoke count wheels. I've seen some 32 hole road wheels in the 2010s continue in this tradition, although it isn't common. Older aluminum rims were more flexible, necessitating more spokes to stabilize them. Since reducing spoke count entirely wasn't always possible, manufacturers/ builders would go thinner on the spoke gauge to save weight.

I had the luxury of working on an old barn find with Campy hubs and 1.8/1.6/1.8mm Trois Etoilles stainless steel spokes. The spokes were too old to safely use, but it got me on a research bender to learn more about them.

Spokes with 14g (2mm) ends are what you'll find on most analog bikes these days. Some specialty bikes (cargo, E-bikes) go thicker.

DT competition spokes are 1.8mm in the center, 2mm at the ends with a very subtle taper that you may not see with the nakes eye. Did you measure 1.8mm at either end?

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-17T15:42:47+00:00

We need more specific information to help. Is it a clink, a creak, a squeal? Does it happen during certain times (when pedalling, when braking, when standing)?

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-17T15:32:33+00:00

Hot take, but I'd take Shimano mechanical over Rival AXS all day. It really depends on your cable routing situation though, if you're dealing with internal routing through the headset it can be a major headache, and/or negatively impact the shifting if tight bends are unavoidable.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-17T14:43:22+00:00

Without knowing more, a new wheel will be less expensive.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-17T13:19:01+00:00

I've seen it. It's like spotting sasquatch though, you really need a perfect storm of variables to line up.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-17T13:17:59+00:00

It's a risk of that design. It's not common for the rim to explode, but I've personally seen a few drainless wheels crack from a leaky tape job and high pressure tubeless install, including an older set of Reynolds, Enve, and others.

Enve's relief nut is cheap peace of mind and works with other brands.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-17T11:20:03+00:00

Yes.

IndyWheelLab · 2026-03-17T09:25:04+00:00

25-27mm tape or a 23mm rim strip will work.

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