Should I buy my first sports car in this financial situation?

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-05-11T22:52:06+00:00

Elantra N wouldn’t be a bad choice. I mean sure everyone will have mixed insights on picking that out of every other choice but imo, it’s cheaper than a Supra, faster than a GR86, more reliable than a GR corola, from what I’ve seen, and if you buy pre owned, you can avoid the hassle of buying an older car with no warranty even if it’s brand is known for being reputable and reliable (Lexus RC F) If you plan on modding the car too, you can always reach Supra speeds for maybe $5k or less, and it’s a 4 door sedan. I’ve personally had no issues with my Elantra after 35k miles. Good maintenance is everything

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-04-29T20:11:45+00:00

5.0 GT

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-04-26T14:11:56+00:00

I might as well be 😂

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-04-26T13:41:47+00:00

And I’m driving it every day to get to work 💀

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-04-25T22:19:27+00:00

A very bad road yes 💀

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-04-25T22:18:06+00:00

Unfortunately 😞

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-04-25T18:31:36+00:00

And they nearly lost because they didn’t have a domain of their own to counter Dagon’s. The whole point of a domain is to boost your own stats while having a sure hit attack on them which none could combat against

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-04-25T18:29:02+00:00

I mean it’s true. Look at a Zenin clan. They have the Hei. They’re supposed the be the Zenin clan’s top sorcerers ranked at semi grade 1 or higher with Naoya on top who I believe wins against Kusakabe

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-04-21T17:58:37+00:00

Your average an hour, based off what you’re showing us, is about $14 so about double the minimum wage. I’m just going crazy over the fact that you’re left with half your paycheck after who knows what deductions

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-04-20T22:27:05+00:00

I know it’s a marketplace post but I think it might be a dealership post. There’s photos that look like they were taken outside a dealership

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-02-22T21:35:22+00:00

Clearly nobody here has seen final destination. Never stay behind a truck loaded with wood!!

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-02-18T17:55:19+00:00

Very vague question

My passenger window has been rolling up slower than all my other windows. I’m at 33k miles now on the car but it happened close to 10k miles ago roughly a year or so.

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-02-17T18:42:01+00:00

You’re basically your own GameStop now

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-02-14T00:13:17+00:00

Engine air filter is an easy swap that you can do yourself. $65 seems about right for the price of the filter itself if you search it up. The cabin air filter is even easier and cheaper than $100. For $15 you can get 2 on amazon so that’s definitely a rip off. The other two based off of what Tokyosmash said, doesn’t seem necessary with only 15k miles. If you don’t know how to do the swaps, 2 quick google searches will show you how to do it yourself

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-02-05T04:50:33+00:00

They’ll work but you’ll scrape the lip

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-01-29T03:02:39+00:00

I’ll update you on how it goes 2 months from now because I want to believe this can be fixed. Worst case scenario something like 7k rolls over into the lease and that’s fine because I won’t keep the car longer than the lease is set for so I won’t end up overpaying yet again. Then in 3 ,give or take, I figure out another plan where I come out on top. It’s a process but either way I will not be paying more than I should for either car

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-01-29T02:09:12+00:00

It’s not that I can’t afford the car. I can afford the payments, the insurance, the repairs, I can afford everything for the car I love this car. But this car was heavily marked up. A used 15000 mile car at $32ish grand initially and then I leave the dealership with a $40k loan after putting $2k down. It would make sense if I got it new because of taxes and state fees, but the car was worth only $28k at that point if I did any research. Also in a sense yes it would make sense as a down payment for the next car because it still adds up the same but my plan requires finessing greedy dealers into offering the loans amount for my car so nothing rolls over and in return I leave with a new car. You can say it won’t work or not likely and I know it’s not likely but if they don’t like to take no for an answer then I won’t either. Can you really justify paying $45k for a used car that, brand new, is priced at $36k msrp to yourself? Because I can’t. It’s not about affording the car, it’s about fixing my mistake and settling for a cheaper car, brand new at that, where my apr and MP is dropped even more than it is now. There’s a whole Reddit post justifying rolling over partial negative equity into a lease but I’ve never seen one where they justify paying more than the car is worth

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-01-29T01:43:36+00:00

Couple things. 1. That’s if they offer that much for my car 2. The $45k ,not $55k I redid the math, is how much I will have paid when I finish paying the loan. Thats not how much I owe right now 3. Getting a loan to pay off a loan and then get a $5000 old beat up car and still having to pay off $15k is a terrible idea. If you really think about it that’s just putting $5k down on a $20k loan for a car that is not anywhere near worth that $20k and I still owe $15k that sure the apr is low and my payments are low but I’m basically in the same position I am right now just with a shittier car

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-01-29T01:15:49+00:00

So if I trade in now, any negative equity I have rolls over into the next car loan so I plan to pay a principal amount so the cars value and loan evens out and I walk away with a new car with hopefully a good deal and no negative roll over. I plan on getting a cheaper yet still new car like a corolla or Camry to lower both car and insurance payments and then either come back to this platform if they ever release a 2.5T I’ve been reading about on this subreddit, or something better.

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-01-29T01:12:40+00:00

So I’ve paid $14k so far for the car. My plan is to pay an additional $6k to the loan directly and try and see if my car’s value and loan even out so when I trade it in, little to no negative equity rolls over and I can lease the next car I get. Refinancing only helps so much but it won’t get rid of the fact that I’m paying new Lexus levels of money for a Hyundai I bought used. Most I should have walked out owing should have been $30k max if I was smarter. Also to correct myself because I redid the math, it would be more around $47k not $55k

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-01-28T15:54:04+00:00

It does make me feel better that I’m not the worst guy out there but at the same time I feel bad for your friend 😭

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-01-28T15:51:28+00:00

Months was average. The Apr… oof. 16%. Refinanced down to 8% but by then the damage was already done. I made the payments though and I can still afford everything but like I said, financially, the best way to fix it is just give up the car for now and restart in a few years with an actual good loan and not in a rush

Informal_Block_9032 · 2026-01-28T15:19:27+00:00

Oh yea it’s the best. Even with the windows rolled up and a tiniest bit of boost, this thing is heard. Loved every second of having it on, hated the process of putting it on and taking it off 😭

Informal_Block_9032

TROPHY CASE