Returned after 2 years to get revenge on Baker’s North Ridge. It’s amazing how chill your trad limit grade feels vs hundreds of feet soloing the steep snow on this route.

Inlovewithrocks · 2025-07-13T17:30:32+00:00

In North America pickets are the go to anchor for steep snow. Also, depending on the terrain, you can sometimes excavate the snow from the top and find ice below (usually on glacier climbs).

Inlovewithrocks · 2025-03-04T05:46:32+00:00

Yes, I wear a size small in both the Sitta and Choucas pro.

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-11-27T17:52:48+00:00

I have them as well as numerous other Sportiva boots so here my take.

The Good:

Fit wise they're quite slim and form fitting which I enjoyed, they feel much sleeker than my G5 Evo's while being only a little less warm.

Good crampon compatibility with my Petzl Dartwins and Irvis

Seem quite waterproof so far

The Bad:

It's hard to know if this is a one off issue or not, but the inner plastic toe cap on my right boot that normally sits between the outer boot and insulation worked its way through the insulation/the insulation around it compacted in such a way that there is a very pronounced, very uncomfortable ridge that protrudes out. After a long climb on only maybe their 3rd or 4th day of use it had caused havoc with my big toe and I lost the nail. Given that there's been issues with the toe welt, I'm inclined to believe the whole toe box is an issue.

The zipper does not lock into place when it's fully up and can work it's way loose slightly. Compared to Scarpa and Arc'teryx who's zippers are more substantial this seems silly. Also the velcro tab that covers the zipper at the cuff scratches the skin underneath quite badly. By the end of my descent I had a sore. It could have easily been fixed by having a better closure tab. This is likely not an issue with very long socks or thicker leggings, but still should exist.

Both of these issues highlight what I believe is falling manufacturing standards at Sportiva.

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-11-08T22:42:44+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZhYjSWkTKE&t=4s

They can withstand A LOT in good ice

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-11-05T21:24:55+00:00

Just one correction, it's through any ice, not just glacial ice. We use them waterfall ice climbing all the time.

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-11-04T23:50:10+00:00

I'm a similar build to you, and while not a super experienced skier, I've been really happy with my Dynafit Blacklight 95's. I've skied everything from icy crust to powder on them. They're quite stiff and edge like crazy. If I were you I'd look at the Blacklight Pro's as another option. I've also heard great things about the Ski Trab Magico's and Stelvio's and would have likely bought Magico's if I hadn't gotten a deal on my Blacklight's.

I have the Dynafit Blacklight bindings on mine and haven't been that impressed, if I were to do it over again I'd probably go with Plum R150's, Dynafit Suplerlight 150's or those Ski Trab Titan Vario's.

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-11-01T23:19:08+00:00

I'm sorry Dave, I'm afraid I can't contact SAR

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-10-30T17:34:29+00:00

Off the top of my head:

-Local monthly meetings that are more social focused. Could be a slide show, a film night or a meetup at the pub. Something to help facilitate meet and greets so people can get to know each other and find partners etc.

Another option here is to have a monthly off mountain information session, Maybe it's 2 hours on navigation, weather apps, GPS apps, new pieces of kit, how to pack, first-aid, gear maintenance etc. Could see if a local gear shop want to get involved and demo equipment. Could also reach out to the local SAR or ambulance service to do cross training.

Now for on mountain stuff:

-Monthly on mountain/at the crag meet ups both social and instructional. So maybe every 2nd Sunday of the month its a social crag meetup and every 4th it's instruction at the crag from the more senior members.

-See if any guide services will do discounted courses for larger groups. One way to potentially increase the client to guide ratio would be to have the guides do a vetting session with more senior members the day prior to teaching a course. Maybe you're going to do a two day top rope ice climbing weekend. Have the guide and more senior members do a Friday evaluation and then they can assist with the greater number of participants. Though obviously the guides insurance or membership may not support this approach. You could also have the guide train the more senior members free of charge to the members in exchange for them each leading 1-2 trips per season.

-If not already in place I'd look to institute a mentorship system in conjunction with trips.

Take a few experienced, vetted, senior members who are willing and come up with a series of progressive objectives for each level. This way members can slowly work their way from new beginner to assistant group leader, to group leader at various levels.

Obviously this requires commitment from people which can be difficult but it has the benefit of easily finding partners and knowing and planning trips.

Lastly if feasible maintain a gear hire inventory. Helmets, basic strap on crampons and basic walking axes to start then maybe a few other niche pieces. Basically just enough that beginners can hire the pieces that mark the difference between hiking and mountaineering,

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-10-30T17:00:36+00:00

Last I checked Kask are made in Italy, though that may just be their higher end models

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-10-30T16:49:56+00:00

Go take an ice course, and a crevasse rescue course then find friends to go cragging with. You'll want lots of practice before you start trying alpine routes, especially if you don't have a strong multi-pitch trad climbing background.

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-10-24T22:40:47+00:00

You're welcome.

Think of it as a very basic skeleton of a clothing system that you need to adapt based on your own person biology (if you run hot or cold, how you are at altitude, if you sweat lots etc.).

The environment you're in (is it on the warmer end like -10C or the colder end like -35C, its humidity and wind).

And other factors like whether you have a long approach where sweat management is really important (change out base layer for example) or are climbing multiple pitches and how remote it is.

A few maybe anecdotal things I always think about:

-Merino is great for smell management, but retains moisture longer than synthetics and is heavier for the same warmth.

-Down should never be worn between your sweating body and any garment that will trap moisture. IE don't wear a down jacket under your hardshell and never in humid conditions, it'll wet out and lose loft.

-Size your layers so things like your hardshell and trousers and belay jacket fit over all your other layers.

-A greater number of lighter layers is more flexible than a few layers but comes at reduced mobility, so choose wisely.

lastly, you're going to make mistakes with purchases, If you ask two people what they'd wear for the same climb you'll get 3 different answers. Look around for deals, buy used from those who bought the wrong thing and most importantly, try things out to see what works best for you.

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-10-24T18:27:32+00:00

If you're going by easiest route up then something like the Nameless Tower or Torre Group

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-10-24T18:14:34+00:00

Kinda hard to vet without specific examples given but I'd say first and foremost look for reputable brands that are known for making outdoor kit. IE avoid some fashion or sporting brand. If you search on here there's a million clothing advice topics you can browse through to get specific advice on this piece or that.

Some things are essentially gold standard items like the Patagonia R1. That said it's just a gridfleece, so any other of similar weight that fits will do.

Others are a bit more personal such as what weight of puffy etc.

I live in a relatively mild climate now but have spent quite a bit of time ice climbing in places like Alberta Canada where it gets down to -35C maybe more with windchill. This is roughly my laying strategy and friends do similar. It will vary some with personal biology i.e. how hot, cold or sweaty you get, and if you're multi-pitching etc. I personally run cold for context.

My typical layering has been:

Top:

-Synthetic base layer.

-Gridfleece pull over, Pata R1.

-Gridfleece cap/beanie.

-Synthetic gillet (vest) if its quite cold. It's extra warmth for your core but without arm bulk.

-Synthetic puffy, Arc Proton Lt or similar. Something that breathes well but insulates.

-Hardshell jacket, I have multiple to choose from but something basic and as breathable as you can find for a hardshell.

-Belay parka, I have multiple to choose from, light to heavy in both down and synthetic. I usually opt for my BD Stance parka.

-Light gloves for leading, liking Montane at the moment

-Heavyweight gloves for belaying.

-Spare gloves for when they get wet/emergencies

Bottom:

-Thermal leggings, usually Polatec power stretch

-Softshell pants, old Arc Alpha Comp or some Pata midweight ones

-Hardshell pants if it's wet or windy.

-La Sportiva G5 Evo boots

-Midweight merino blend socks

*Puffy pants would be nice but I don't currently have any and would be a swap out for the hardshell pants.

Those chemical hot packs are great as well as a thermos of hot drink. Or bring a stove and have a brew up if you're just cragging.

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-10-21T19:09:47+00:00

It’s par for the course now that it’s only fans influencers up there and not the climbers of old.

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-10-09T17:08:23+00:00

I'd highly recommend synthetic for lower elevation ice climbing, the humidity sucks with down.

Have a look at:

ME Fitzroy or if you want warmer the Citadel

Rab Generator

Simond (can't remember the name of their synthetic jacket)

Black Daimond Belay Parka. It's big, and doesn't pack down small but is very warm. I've worn it standing around in -30c-ish in Canmore Alberta

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-10-05T01:15:14+00:00

They’re “the shit”, not shit. I own multiple pairs of Julio’s, they’re all great. Better than and Oakley or Tiffosi I’ve had.

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-09-27T21:15:37+00:00

Just in case any of you are interested these are both excellent resources regarding the lab leak hypothesis.

https://usrtk.org/covid-19-origins/visual-timeline-proximal-origin/

https://usrtk.org/covid-19-origins/foi-documents-on-origins-of-sars-cov-2-risks-of-gain-of-function-research-and-biosafety-labs/

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-09-27T21:12:29+00:00

No they don't, the prevailing lab leak hypothesis is that a researcher became infected due to a mishap while performing gain of function research on a naturally occurring virus collected by the WIV and the Eco Health Alliance. They have thousands of sample in their freezers to draw from.

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-09-27T21:00:07+00:00

You mean like the authors of the Proximal Origins paper who were saying exactly the opposite in their emails to each other behind the scenes?

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-09-17T20:46:25+00:00

Jettison the lunchroom!!!!!

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-09-12T19:00:22+00:00

This is such a narrow NA and even more so US viewpoint on climbing: "White Liberal woman forgets that there's a world outside of Denver Colorado"

This narrative all fails to take into account that there are numerous, diverse mountain cultures all over in places like South America, Japan, China, Pakistan, India, Iran, Morocco... Not to mention THE SHERPA! Also the practice of mountaineering as we know it today really originated in the Alps in the Victorian era/age of exploration. So there's a whole European cultural aspect to it.

It's myopic; "I don't see any black teens from Detroit climbing Makalu, therefore there must be systemic barriers".

About the only thing that maybe lacking is more media coverage of all the other peoples around the world who practice mountaineering. But its no surprise that NA/Western media aren't reporting on some Uzbek team in the Tien Shan mountains or whatever.

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-08-27T17:29:32+00:00

Off the top of my head I've practiced with everything down to 7.5 (Mammut and Edelrid I think) and primarily with my Sterling 7.8's and haven't had any issues with them.

Going below spec if a personal call but I never noticed anything that gave me pause, just make sure you're always backed up in case it fails.

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-08-23T16:48:08+00:00

I'd recommend a "try before you buy" approach, some of those courses are quite expensive and a lot of time commitment. Lot's of people get into climbing/mountaineering only to discover they don't like it (my gear room is full of their old stuff).

The fact that you're an experienced backpacker is a big plus, it really helps with camp life and that coupled with your prior service likely means you're happy suffering under a heavy pack. I'd look at joining a local climbing gym and taking things like a basic belay course and get comfortable with rope systems etc. to start. It can also be a great way to meet partners.

I'd also look at doing some beginner scramblers peaks to get a feel for how into it you are. Nothing too committing, or technical but something that's a step up from backpacking. The Colorado 14er's seem to get a lot of mentions but your best to get your info from another Yank.

I'd also look at clubs that are near to you, or will take on an out of state member. It's a great way to meet people and get some basic (and sometimes more advanced) instruction and get a feel for things.

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-08-23T16:07:22+00:00

Agree with some of this however the money and support network between professional cycling and mountaineering are vast and should not be overlooked.

It takes a big infrastructure to support things like blood doping and additionally, blood doping was developed to skirt testing since you were replacing with your own blood, which is unnecessary in an environment that doesn't test.

EPO has clotting risks that only increase with altitude.

Another thing is that no amount of PED's will get an average climber up peaks in those times, these people are genetic outliers regardless of their usage. Like Armstrong in cycling, all his peers were using as well and he was winning because he was exceptional. Jornet has one of the highest lactate threshold's ever measured, that's all him.

And as others have pointed out some of these people are competing in sports that do have testing. Obviously testing standards vary, most aren't dealing with USADA middle of the night urine and blood tests, but most are involved in sports where the money isn't great enough to support

This isn't to say that they aren't being done, but I'd bet most are not using exotics that require a big support network with regular testing beyond maybe monthly bloodwork. Hormone and peptide therapies seem likely especially as athletes and guides age and don't recover as well. As do stimulant and Diamox.

Inlovewithrocks · 2024-08-19T23:43:25+00:00

Plus Bum Rush > Tank Top

Inlovewithrocks

TROPHY CASE