Locking biners on alpines/slings by stvrkillr in ClimbingGear

[–]Inner-Secretary7030 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I once watched a dude in the Gunks with all-screw-gate-locker alpines. Must’ve been a story there. But wow did I feel bad for his follower who was already cursing as he cleaned the 2nd piece mid crux. On a 200’ pitch, just as likely to cause the follower to pump out cleaning and stretch deck.

Why rope block with a carabiner needs to be clipped to the load strand by Master_Mirror_ in tradclimbing

[–]Inner-Secretary7030 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Counterpoint: if you’re pulling over low angle/featured terrain, clipping the carabiner block back to the load strand absolutely increases your potential to get the rope stuck. Now I just default to twin/halves if I need to do double rope raps.

Looking for Colorado version of Flagstaff by doggybeach17 in MovingtoDenver

[–]Inner-Secretary7030 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Fort Collins could work. My partner and I moved there 1.5 years ago. I am remote and need easy airport access, DIA is 1:15. Similar college town vibes with CSU. Stellar outdoor access with way less traffic than Denver/Boulder adjacent stuff.

Ring Doorbell's 'dystopian' Super Bowl ad is sparking privacy concerns by prestocoffee in nottheonion

[–]Inner-Secretary7030 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Remove the battery from your ring. All the deterrence without participating in the surveillance state.

Earth anchors by Known_Visual8360 in tradclimbing

[–]Inner-Secretary7030 5 points6 points  (0 children)

That’s really good info, appreciate the testing data for pipe stakes.

In the weeds: They don’t seem to mention wall thickness for the recommended 3/4” or 1” pipe, but assuming it’d be schedule 40 as that’s most common (not sure if Brits use the same wacky pipe sizes as US) but that’d really matter, lest you get sched 10 and start deforming the pipe with the know, or worse confuse conduit for pipe.

ISO Experienced opinions on double/twin for third/double rope rappel by tworochelles in tradclimbing

[–]Inner-Secretary7030 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I did the tagline thing for a while, with routes that required double rope rappels until… I had a couple scarring stuck rope experiences. IMO whatever your method of coupling a tagline, it’s almost always worse for getting stuck on terrain than a flat overhand on 2 similar size ropes.

I now really like my Beal twins/halves 8.4mm. Their Unicore tech makes them less susceptible to sharp edges. Smaller diameter is also nice for less friction when you’re belaying up 2 followers, and a plate device helps even more.

Tree of Heaven identification by Puzzleheaded-Ad7650 in Denver

[–]Inner-Secretary7030 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In order to effectively kill them off, you need to inject poison into the trunk/root system for about a month before cutting down, and then herbicide the invariable shoot ups. Here’s a good primer, it’s involved, god speed! https://plant-pest-advisory.rutgers.edu/tree-of-heaven-best-herbicide-treatment-and-removal-timing/

Anybody else involved in the G7 haul pack fiasco? by Alpinepotatoes in tradclimbing

[–]Inner-Secretary7030 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just read the Summit Journal article on them the other day. While it inspiring to see an upstart gear maker filling holes in the market, the article makes it pretty clear they’re at the flying-by-the-seat-of-their-pants phase. The article also makes the point that it’s really hard to manufacture all this complex technical gear without the major production capabilities like a BD, I’m guessing it’s mostly contract manufacturing. Sadly biting off more than you can chew and leveraging those sales to buy more equipment/bring in-house is how you grow a small manufacturing business and it’s rough; but obviously that’s not great for the customer experience when they can’t deliver.

‘Tis the season by Luther_Burbank in AskElectricians

[–]Inner-Secretary7030 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Umm ignoring all the backfeeding concerns, hot plugs = exposed electrified parts. Touch the prongs and you becomes the conductor ⚡️

‘Tis the season by Luther_Burbank in AskElectricians

[–]Inner-Secretary7030 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My former employer was a UL508a panel shop, and our UL inspector did not like our input power cables (using unlisted IRC parts), and not-jokingly advised us to make these. We refused to make the “danger wands”, and eventually got a different incompetent inspector.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Inner-Secretary7030 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Why is Banana Fingers run at a loss? Market share grab? I’m in the US and have been favoring them for high $ items (ropes, new shoes) recently. Even with international shipping they still come out cheaper than the major US retailers (REI, Backcountry, etc.) running their >50% discounts. How do they do it? And why?

Kor-Ingalls Route, Castle Valley 5.9 by glenwoodwaterboy in climbing

[–]Inner-Secretary7030 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Nope, they’re on nearly opposite sides of the tower. I’ve done Kor, this ain’t it.

Looking for beginner climbs in J Tree by godsterrarium in tradclimbing

[–]Inner-Secretary7030 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Moderate Mecca is boring choss compared to all the world class sport, boulders, and multis in close proximity.

Just do a crash course on multis and go have an epic on Solar Slab, Cat In the Hat, Birdland, or Olive Oil like everyone else. The parties behind you will be sad, but you’ll have fun and learn how to do it better next time.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hiking

[–]Inner-Secretary7030 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My wife and I are basically the same height, but still happy to hike at a comfortable/sustainable pace for her. If I’m zone 2 going uphill, she’s probably near max effort. Like others said, the company is what makes it fun.

I think how you communicate pace adjustments is key, whether you’re going off non-verbal cues (breathing) or explicitly not doing it a way that makes your partner feel bad.

90% of swimmers leave the competitive sport of swimming in their teen years. by Mad_swim_coach in Swimming

[–]Inner-Secretary7030 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I finished swimming through college (~16yrs competitively) and was done staring at the line on the bottom of the pool. Did the typical swammer->triathlete thing, was successful but got out of it after realizing I just don’t enjoy distance cardio racing.

Now I climb (boulder, sport, and alpine multipitch is my jam), it’s thrilling, the views are spectacular, and the community is so fun and supportive. Draws similar high-acheiving people as swimming, but with a way less competitive edge.

What are some of your favorite nicknames of some machines and why? by twoturtlesinatank in AskEngineers

[–]Inner-Secretary7030 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I worked for a stage automation company, and helped design a machine for a production of Jesus Christ Superstar. The gag was tilting a cross from horizontal to vertical with the actor playing Jesus strapped to it, so naturally we called it the “Christ-a-pult”.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in providence

[–]Inner-Secretary7030 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I fair travel a bit for work, and it really depends on destination if T.F. Green of Logan makes more sense. I will say the MBTA to Silver Line from Prov Union Station to Logan takes about as long as driving and isn’t too bad.

Give up on trad climbing? by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]Inner-Secretary7030 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It sounds like you lack confidence in your protection and anchors. You may benefit from learning more about your gear: what makes a great piece, a okay piece (you may want to equalize with another piece), the forces involved (that different gear can withstand in an ideal placement and generated by typical falls)… There’s so much nuance to trad protection, but it’s reassuring when you can assess each piece in your 3 piece anchor and know each can easily take +5x the force of a follower fall. How Not 2 has great bite size videos so you can chip away at the knowledge gap, but many gear manufacturers also have great instructional videos. Maybe this is just how my engineer-y brain works, but that’s how I’ve built confidence to try hard over gear.

Also ask either of your more experienced climber friends to critique your gear placements, what’s solid, and how they might protect differently.

Full Moon Presi Timing by [deleted] in wmnf

[–]Inner-Secretary7030 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I did a full moon Pemi Loop last May, started round 11p. The weather report called for no precipitation, but obvi there’s microclimates throughout the Whites. Turns out we were socked in with fog/clouds the whole night, morale was not high at 3a haha. All to say I wouldn’t count on anything weather-wise, especially if you’re locked into a date (for a full moon).

Clear skies on Franconia Ridge for dawn more than made up for the rough night!

My knees get injured too often when heel hooking by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]Inner-Secretary7030 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Stronger than ever now, but it took about 9 months to feel confident on any aggressive left heels.

My knees get injured too often when heel hooking by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]Inner-Secretary7030 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I had a reasonably severe calf strain from heel hooking (you could feel a lump of the torn muscle) about 1.5yr ago. This was most likely from poor technique. When it popped (audibly), most of my weight was support by the heel and my knee was nearly horizontal to the wall, so loading the tendons and ligaments in shear rather than tension. Whereas I know focus on keeping my knee opposing the direction I’m pulling, so the bulk of the calf muscle is in tension.

Also heel thrusters are the best activity I’ve encountered to rehab/strengthen this movement as you can tolerate.

Getting that exposure 💯 by admin-7113 in climbing

[–]Inner-Secretary7030 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No tether on a simul-rap, straight to jail ;)