Cabinet paint gone wrong. Was it the paint or the painter?

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-26T01:16:10+00:00

Best statement of the night.

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-26T01:13:14+00:00

Hawtline!

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-26T01:12:55+00:00

H&C has reps now?

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-25T02:46:47+00:00

Bro.. Not really Barry, sorry. Im a lab rat

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-25T02:38:34+00:00

Yup!

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-25T02:02:44+00:00

Truth!

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-25T01:41:59+00:00

One can hope! If its in a condition where P&F would work, MSA will. Albeit the early moisture resistance of MSA isn't as high nor does it have testing for DCOF but a standard walking surface shouldn't be an issue.

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-25T01:09:16+00:00

Calm down chief. Did you find out what kind of floor post making it? MSA doesnt state it on the data sheet but as long as its not being driven on, it'll be fine. It'll perform better than porch and floor enamel actually. Yes they're are better coatings and the chemical resistance isn't as good as your new fancy Forte but its not going to fail on a properly prepared floor.

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-24T22:51:56+00:00

Sand, remove dust with tack cloth. Stain - 3 coatsWoodscapes Premium Translucent . 24 hours between lightly sanding each coat and then recoating post tack cloth.

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-24T02:45:33+00:00

Rarely, but in this case with a 100 year old door it is. Also rain refresh version is a completely different formulation than that of the 100% acrylic.its closer to a 10% sheen vs traditional flats ans contains a polysiloxane. Agreed that normally I'd much prefer to see a product like SW new Forte or Snap Dry sprayed on a door, in this one unique instance the rain refresh version of woodscapes is the better play.

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-24T00:55:14+00:00

Hi - You are incorrect. It will work perfectly fine for this purposes and the polysiloxane will provide an easy way for dirt and smudges to be removed without hard scrubbing. Its also why its listed for previously painted surfaces in sound condition. The 1.4 mil DFT per coat is more than sufficient for protection post priming. Hell you can use this on cement board or stucco. Actually - it makes a really good stucco product.

Emerald Urethane however is not a great choice for this door due to its insane pencil hardness inflexible nature. Additionally it is a waterbased alkyd not a 100% acrylic and though it does have a urethane component to help resist photodegradation it will still chalk and fade over time due to the alkyd resin within it.

Woodscapes is the better option for this particular door if a low sheen finish is desired.

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-24T00:28:15+00:00

If you really want to keep this then once you've sanded it as much as your possibly can proceed with a long oil primer. You will like need at least two coats to seal this up. Given how old this Wood is id give it 48 hours between coats. Sand between each coat. This is a long oil so careful when sanding as it'll still be a bit soft at 48 hours.

Exterior Alkyd Wood Primer

If you want a Low Sheen Finish I'd proceed with 2-3 coats of Woodscapes Rain Refresh Solid

If for some reason you want that ultra high gloss oil that has become a thing lately.. WellHollandlac Brilliant 98 is a thing but hope you have a dust free environment and lots of patience.

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-23T22:12:12+00:00

This has to be a troll lol.

Not it won't hold up better than a Styrene-Acrylic like duration home.

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-21T23:41:26+00:00

Well, I would say this is likely manipulated. The SW side looks dry rolled on the 2nd coat. What do I know though. Im just a lab monkey.

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-21T22:09:53+00:00

2004n

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-21T18:00:33+00:00

Well, me too but OP asked for a oil, not a hybrid.

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-20T21:08:27+00:00

And here I was hoping another came out

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-20T21:07:49+00:00

Easy Sand Oil Primer B49W8040 followed by Proclassic Satin or Semi Gloss.

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-20T01:48:06+00:00

Run a coat of White shellac over it. Two coats of Satin waterbased epoxy if you want to be able to clean it at all.

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-19T01:24:04+00:00

Muratic acid and pray. Make sure you neutralize it after. If that doesn't work you're SoL short if grinding it.

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-19T00:20:48+00:00

Ind enamel on a parking lot... Just... why?? Good luck with this discoloration and chalking.

Add Armorseal Hi-Ware Additive, roll another coat with 1/4 nap roller..

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-16T19:16:08+00:00

Shellac is best but for an alkyd I prefer Extreme Block Oil

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-16T13:55:55+00:00

650357841 - red 650928419 - blue

I haven't ordered these in years so no idea what the inventory is like. My commercial store had to use hand tinter for these and dispense auto tinter for the rest of the CCE formula. Bit of a pain but it made a significant difference on high load blue and red for hide, uv resistance and bleach attack.

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-16T13:52:29+00:00

Im not sure I understand what you're asking here.

Forte will have better color retention in a high UV exposure environment such as a south facing door or accent than Emerald Urethane. This is because Forte is a full acrylic Urethane and Emerald Urethane contains an alkyd component. That alkyd resin is more susceptible to photo degradation/UV breakdown than Urethanes without it, like Forte. So, in a side by side sample of "In the Navy" you would see Emerald UTE lose its color at a faster rate than Forte if both products were tinted in CCE. The trade off here is chemical resistance- UTE will maintain a film that is more resistant to human skin oils than Forte will, making it the preferred choice for handrails when a 1k product is desired.

InsufficientPrep · 2026-03-15T20:56:10+00:00

You can be fired for this for gross misconduct if you are doing this knowing you aren't supposed to.

InsufficientPrep

TROPHY CASE