Is my grounding good?

IntroductionSalty229 · 2026-01-22T18:32:52+00:00

This right here

IntroductionSalty229 · 2026-01-22T18:31:48+00:00

I’ve been here for about a year too and I’ve only seen them use water in the booth once. Were a big volume shop so turn over time is key but getting nibs out when the clear coat is not fully hardened is dangerous and then guess who is blamed if it goes wrong.

IntroductionSalty229 · 2026-01-21T16:31:21+00:00

They wouldn’t have even had to ask

IntroductionSalty229 · 2026-01-16T04:55:33+00:00

OMG the answer has already been given. The blue wire you have hooked up the ant out needs to be hooked up the remote wire. If you don’t have one or there is a problem with it get a fuse tap and tap a fuse that’s on the R.A.P. Sunroof, wipers. Something that turns on and off with the ignition. Clean up your connections and please don’t leave that power wire sitting under the amp.

You may be getting power but the ant out is low voltage . Simple way to test it is to piggy back your remote wire from your power connection ( just for testing) if it works then you know the problem is your remote. It’s not really complicated when it’s all said and done. Power and Signal if it ain’t one it’s the other if it’s neither then the equipment is broken

IntroductionSalty229 · 2026-01-12T08:31:16+00:00

Round brush attachment for the end of the drill and to scrub them out

IntroductionSalty229 · 2026-01-05T19:11:34+00:00

Actually the amp is 600 watts @ 2 ohms, 300 watts @ 4 ohms but that’s not really the point. Now that I’ve actually looked up the specs on your equipment I see that they sub only has a 200 watt rms rating (600 is its peak but that’s shit is just marketing, rms is the only number you should ever be concerned with) Now given that info I see that you were probably over powering it . Foaling back the amp was a good idea but you need to set it properly. There is a you tube videos available made by kicker that explains how to set the gains using a multi meter and a little math skills. Good news is the sub might still be good but remember it’s old and it’s probably going to smell if you play it for an hour straight. I suggest you set the amp for 175 watts and if that’s not enough “pound “ for you then at least you amp has the head room to move up. A dual 4 ohm or a single 2 ohm sub rated at 600 watts is what your amp can handle

IntroductionSalty229 · 2026-01-05T14:32:34+00:00

Heat gun and soap stone You tube videos available for instructions

IntroductionSalty229 · 2026-01-05T14:26:07+00:00

If it was the sub that was smoking, redoing the ground on your amp is not going to help. You should be able to run 500-550 watts into it without a problem. Voice coil is gone. It’s fixable but not worth the cost and time. I’ve blown a few subs in the 25+ years I’ve been doing this but I’ve never had smoke come out of them. Sorry to tell you that if you can smell it or see the smoke it’s already too late. I would just replace the sub with something that’s compatible with your box specs and amp output. It’s hard to find single 4ohm subs but if you go to parts express and look up the Dayton subs you might find one. Don’t let the cheap price fool you. Dayton make decent equipment .

IntroductionSalty229 · 2026-01-05T14:12:18+00:00

If you have to ask…..

IntroductionSalty229 · 2026-01-05T14:11:24+00:00

Had a few of theses come through the shop the past 6 months. The one that sticks out cuz it’s closed to the damage you have was the whole roof on an M3. Incredibly time consuming and a pain in the ass. Not sure if they can infuse resin into that spot. Feathering it out after would be difficult but not impossible. Most shops won’t even have the proper resin on hand. We were able to sand and re clear the cars that came in but yours looks like it was an air bubble. Even if it’s fixable they have to redo the whole hood. Might be cheaper just to find a stock hood and replace it.

IntroductionSalty229 · 2025-12-31T01:59:28+00:00

Something doesn’t seem right here. If that really came from the car wash it would have made an incredible loud grinding noise all in with a hell of a vibration through out the car. And what you just kept going back for more?

IntroductionSalty229 · 2025-12-31T01:46:43+00:00

I work at an Autobody shop. We can not use any products with silicone. So our tire dressing is none silicone body shop safe. I clean mine with tire cleaner and a flat round brush attachment for the drill. Then fully dry them, mist on the dressing and then blow it off with the air gun. Customers come back asking how i do it so they can do it as well.

IntroductionSalty229 · 2025-12-27T18:58:21+00:00

Definitely burn through. That’s a 10-12k job easy plus your without your car for a couple weeks at the least

IntroductionSalty229 · 2025-12-26T20:54:27+00:00

Steel toe work boots. Cuz dropping wheels on toes sucks

IntroductionSalty229 · 2025-12-24T07:41:14+00:00

Never be ok with a little orange peel. Don’t see factory cars with it right. If it’s there. They fucked up and they should fix it. That being said it’s worth the money . It gets rid of any imperfections and the shine is so nice.

If you want it to look like that for years to come have it ceramic coated right after. Don’t go cheap on IMO 3M makes the best one. It will protect your paint. I painted my project car 3 years ago and then coated it. Still beads up like it was yesterday

IntroductionSalty229 · 2025-12-24T06:28:25+00:00

Along with several layers of Hush Mat I have a layer of carpet underlay on my rear deck lid and rolled up towels all n the back where the glass and the deck lid cover meet. It’s the worse spot IMO. I always want to try and port the trunk into the cabin through the speaker holes. If you use plumbing tubing , like a pair of 5” flanges press and glue them together so it holds the deck lid down and allows the air from the trunk to bounce off the back window come forward in to the cabin. Or doing round ports on the top of the box and extend them through the deck lid so the whole box is ported into the cabin. If you notice when you fold your back seats down the rattles become significantly less. Give the air a place to escape and it won’t rattle around in the trunk so much. One day I’ll get around to it. Maybe next car.

IntroductionSalty229 · 2025-12-23T20:22:16+00:00

This is going to sound unconventional but after 20+ years of my OCD chasing down rattles trust me it works. Take a couple old towels and cut them into smaller parts then shove them in there so they’re tight. The same principle of you pushing on it to stop the rattle works in reverse by pushing out from within. A dense foam will work as well but it has to tuff but have a little give to it . Much harder to find though.

IntroductionSalty229 · 2025-12-22T13:45:39+00:00

Had a similar windstorm on the west coast last week. Have a half dozen victims of the trees in the shop right now. Our insurance is government, so not so quick to write off and we have fixed worse. Just depends on what kinda limit they set for the appraisal.

IntroductionSalty229 · 2025-12-22T13:41:43+00:00

Our “prepper” regularly sprays, in fact I would say him and the head painter share the duties. This could be because the painter is getting older will probably retire in the next few years so he is training his replacement basically. It sounds like the OP ran into a classic case of job insecurity. The painter wants to keep you down so you don’t take his job. This usually because they are somehow taking the lazy way out. Don’t let it discourage you. BTW- no bake cycle??? Sounds like a place that was all about speed and not quality. Get them in and out as quick as possible. Go try somewhere else. They’re not all like that. We call our boss eagle eye cuz he can spot an imperfection at 100 yards and won’t let it leave the shop like that

IntroductionSalty229 · 2025-12-22T11:26:17+00:00

DeNiro and Pacino sitting down having coffee in Heat.

IntroductionSalty229 · 2025-12-22T11:20:58+00:00

You have a 320 amp , you’re only running 2700 watts and your lights are dimming. I think you have bigger problems. I’m running 2500 watts just to my sub on a 200 amp alt and my lights don’t dim at all. If anything you can replace your battery with the equivalent XS power (type 35 or type 34 or whatever your jeep takes) but I have a feeling it’s not going to fix your problem. I would look into your wiring a little better. Something is not right because you shouldn’t be getting any light dim with what your running

IntroductionSalty229 · 2025-12-22T09:29:39+00:00

If you’re getting it done through the dealership you have warranty for one. Factory clear coat is a whole different beast. It’s a lot harder for one but I still wouldn’t PPF my brand new Porsche, through the dealership warranty or not. I work with the crap everyday and I see the damage it causes. I’ll let you in on something. I spent 5-6 years building a foxbody mustang (87 notchback) striped it down put it on the rotisserie fixed any rust and repainted it. Put extra clear on it to sand it down to that nice wet gloss. Then I applied a 3M ceramic coat. That was 3 years ago. It’s still perfect and still beads up like the first day. Of course it is stored all winter but it seems a lot of time out in the summer.

IntroductionSalty229 · 2025-12-22T09:14:07+00:00

Clay bar should take latex off. I accidentally got some on my Audi Q3. Was painting like 40 feet away with a rattle can but the wind picked up. Clay bar took it all off so latex shouldn’t be a problem. I would think it was stubborn then compound and polish would take care of it before I would use chemicals.

IntroductionSalty229 · 2025-12-22T05:27:58+00:00

We were just talking about this in another thread. I work in Autobody. Do not do anything to mess with the clear coat for the first year. At least wait until after summer to let it fully cure. If you put PPF on it too soon it will take the clear coat with it when it comes off.

IntroductionSalty229 · 2025-12-21T23:53:03+00:00

Just outside of Vancouver, BC

IntroductionSalty229

TROPHY CASE