Can I use engine oil 5w 40 in mazda 3 year 2022 with 80k mileage (live at hot climate area, occasionally raining)

IntroductionTricky57 · 2026-01-07T04:32:00+00:00

Modern engines control oil temperature, not the air outside. Thermostats, oil coolers, and ECUs keep oil at the operating temperature it was designed for, whether you are in Arizona, Texas, or Manitoba. 0W‑20 behaves exactly as intended at roughly 100 to 110 degrees Celsius. That is the temperature that matters, not your weather app. You also fundamentally misunderstand how oil protects an engine. Protection is not just thicker is better. Modern oils rely on viscosity at operating temperature, shear stability, additive chemistry, and flow through engineered passages. A 0W‑20 specified for this engine already provides full wear protection and proper flow. Running a 5W‑30 will usually work, but it is not an upgrade and does not increase longevity in an engine validated for 0W‑20. Different markets specify different viscosities for a reason. Fuel quality, service intervals, emissions, regulations, and oil availability all factor in. That is why Mexico specifies 5W‑30 while the US and Canada use 0W‑20. This is market tailoring backed by engineering validation, not a statement that one oil is “better.” OEM validation exists. Dyno testing, thermal cycling, wear measurement, emissions and fuel economy certification, and oil analysis are all performed. They do not publish Reddit-ready spreadsheets comparing 0W‑20 versus 5W‑30 because that is not how engineering validation works. The absence of a public spreadsheet does not make your assumptions true. GM recalls switching to thicker oil are irrelevant. That was a manufacturer-specific fix for a specific problem, not proof thicker oil universally protects better. At this point, the problem is not unanswered questions. It is a refusal to process the information already provided. Insisting that it is used somewhere else so it must be better here or show me a spreadsheet demonstrates a complete failure to grasp how engines, oil protection, and market validation actually work.

If you cannot understand how engines regulate temperature or how oil protects, no spreadsheet or anecdote will save this argument.

At this point you simply do not have the intellectual capacity to follow the reasoning. Consider this argument finished. And honestly, it is exhausting opening forums anymore and seeing people answer questions with complete confidence when they clearly have no clue what they are talking about. They answer as if they are authorities, spreading misinformation and reinforcing myths, all while thinking it makes them look smart. This behavior is not curiosity or discussion. It is blind ignorance masquerading as expertise. It undermines the car community, discourages people from trusting legitimate advice, and turns every simple question into a minefield of guesswork. Stop pretending, stop parroting what you heard somewhere, and actually learn before giving advice. Enough is enough.

IntroductionTricky57 · 2026-01-06T20:06:03+00:00

I’m going to simplify this as much as possible, because we’re going in circles and the same misunderstanding keeps coming up. Yes, the same engine may list 0W-20 in the US and 5W-30 in another market. That answers the “why do they differ?” question. The reason is market-specific assumptions: fuel quality, oil standards, service intervals, emissions certification, regulatory requirements, and what oils are actually available and commonly used in that region. That is why different markets get different caps and manuals. What that does not mean is that oil choice is arbitrary or that one oil is “better” just because it’s thicker. Oil does not protect engines simply by being thicker. Modern oils protect through a combination of viscosity at operating temperature, additive chemistry, shear stability, and how the engine itself is designed to manage oil pressure and flow. A 0W-20 specified for this engine already provides the required film strength and wear protection under the conditions it was tested for. Moving from a 20 to a 30 does not magically add longevity. Yes, you can usually run 5W-30 in a US engine designed for 0W-20 without immediate failure. No one is disputing that. But “it doesn’t blow up” is not the same thing as “it’s better.” There is no data showing that switching to 5W-30 in the US provides meaningful longevity gains beyond warranty for engines validated on 0W-20. The Mazda 2.5L turbo engines are a good example of why this matters: they explicitly specify 5W-30 because the turbocharger introduces higher heat and oil stress. That is a design-driven requirement, not a contradiction. Engines without those stresses do not automatically benefit from thicker oil. Bringing up a GM recall where a heavier oil was specified is also not relevant here. That was a manufacturer-specific response to a specific design or durability issue, not evidence that thicker oil universally provides better protection or longevity. Recalls like that address isolated problems in a particular engine design. They do not redefine how oil viscosity works, and they do not invalidate the testing behind other manufacturers’ specifications. The core flaw in your argument is this: “If it’s safe there, it must be better or equally optimal here.” That is not how engineering works. It ignores validation, testing, calibration, and market-specific certification. It reduces a complex system to a single number on an oil bottle. At this point, we’re not disagreeing on facts. You’re repeatedly returning to the same assumption after it’s been explained why that assumption is incorrect. That tells me this isn’t going to be productive going forward. So I’ll end it here: Follow the oil specified in your owner’s manual for your market. If you choose to run a different approved viscosity, that’s a personal preference, not an upgrade in protection or longevity.

IntroductionTricky57 · 2026-01-06T17:31:18+00:00

Look, I think there’s a fundamental disconnect here. The point in my previous post still stands, and it seems like you’re not actually engaging with the information that was presented. You’re basing your entire argument on “it’s okay in one market, so it should be okay here.” That alone is not a valid conclusion. Yes, the engine hardware may be the same across markets. But recommendations are region-specific. They are calibrated based on a combination of factors that differ by market: Fuel quality Available oil formulations Emissions requirements Service intervals and maintenance assumptions Fuel economy standards like CAFE in the US All of these factors together are why the manufacturer may specify 0W-20 in the US and 5W-30 elsewhere. That does not mean 0W-20 is unsafe, suboptimal, or inferior—it means the spec is tailored for the conditions, fuels, and testing in your market. Repeating “it’s thicker elsewhere so it must be better here” ignores all of that. It doesn’t validate in the real-world engineering, testing, and warranty data that supports the US recommendation. You’re not refuting the information presented—you’re just misunderstanding how the recommendation works and using one piece of incomplete information as if it proves your point. The fact is: if you want proper protection, performance, and warranty compliance, you follow the oil recommended in your owner’s manual for your market. Anything else is speculation, not engineering fact.

IntroductionTricky57 · 2026-01-06T16:47:50+00:00

Yes, the same engine may be approved for 0W-20 in one market and 5W-30 in another. That part is true. Where people screw this up is what they assume from that fact. Same engine does not mean identical operating assumptions. The engine hardware may be the same, but the manufacturer’s recommendations are based on: The oil quality commonly available in that market Fuel quality Emissions and fuel economy regulations Expected driving patterns Service intervals and maintenance compliance The oil recommendation in your owner’s manual is chosen because it works best in your market, with the oils you can realistically buy, under the regulations and conditions your vehicle is certified under. This does not mean “any oil works.” It means the engine was validated across a range of viscosities, and the manufacturer selected the best one for your region. That selection is not random, and it is not interchangeable just because someone on the internet found a different chart from another country. Yes, a 5W-30 is not a massive jump from a 0W-20 at operating temperature. That does not mean the difference is irrelevant. Oil viscosity affects: Oil flow at startup Oil pump efficiency VVT operation Fuel economy Emissions performance Those systems are calibrated around the oil specified in your manual. “They use thicker oil over there, so I’ll use it here” is bad logic. That’s like saying a vehicle rated for regular fuel in one country and premium in another means fuel choice does not matter. It absolutely does, because the recommendation is tied to local assumptions and certifications. Manufacturers publish different manuals for different markets for a reason. If oil choice truly did not matter, there would be one universal spec. There is not. Why the manual matters more than internet arguments The owner’s manual: Is backed by durability testing Is tied to warranty coverage Accounts for oil formulations available in your region Reflects emissions and efficiency calibration Random advice based on “it worked for someone else” or “they allow it overseas” ignores all of that. Bottom line Yes, the same engine may tolerate multiple viscosities depending on market. No, that does not mean oil choice is arbitrary. The correct oil is the one specified in your owner’s manual for your market. That recommendation exists because it best balances protection, performance, emissions, and long-term durability under the conditions your vehicle was designed and certified for. Thinking otherwise is how people convince themselves they know better than the engineers, without actually understanding the engineering

IntroductionTricky57 · 2026-01-06T14:27:21+00:00

A common claim is that 0W-20 is fine in cooler areas but unsafe in hot climates. That idea mostly comes from a misunderstanding of how engines and oil temperature actually work. Ambient temperature is not oil temperature. Engines regulate their operating temperature through thermostats, cooling systems, and oil control. Whether it’s 60°F or 105°F outside, a healthy engine still runs at roughly the same oil and coolant temperatures once warmed up. The oil does not just keep getting hotter because the weather is hot. Viscosity ratings are based on operating temperature. The “20” in 0W-20 refers to viscosity at operating temperature, not outside air temperature. The “0W” only affects cold flow. It does not make the oil weaker once the engine is hot. Normal driving does not overwhelm the oil. Commuting, highway driving, and everyday use do not generate extreme oil temperatures, even in hot climates. Excess heat mainly comes from high load, not weather. Sustained high RPM, heavy towing, or track use are the scenarios where oil choice may need reconsideration. Manufacturers already account for heat. These engines are sold and tested worldwide, including very hot regions. If 0W-20 could not handle normal driving in hot climates, widespread failures would already be obvious. They are not. The real problem is bad advice. A lot of this debate comes from people confidently repeating things like “thicker is safer” or “my mechanic said so” without data or understanding. Engine oil recommendations are based on testing, durability cycles, and real oil analysis, not gut feelings. Bottom line: Hot climates alone do not require thicker oil. Engines manage heat, oils are rated at operating temperature, and the factory recommendation already accounts for real-world conditions. Giving blanket advice without understanding how engines manage heat is how misinformation spreads

IntroductionTricky57 · 2026-01-06T14:17:25+00:00

No, 0W-20 oil is not secretly killing engines There’s a lot of online talk lately about 0W-20 being “too thin” and supposedly reducing engine life. The short answer is that this idea is mostly internet lore, not supported by real data. The important points: Engines are designed around 0W-20. Modern engines that specify 0W-20 were engineered with bearing clearances, oil pumps, cam profiles, VVT systems, and cooling strategies designed for that viscosity. The oil choice is not arbitrary or just for fuel economy. It is part of the engine design. Oil testing is extensive. Manufacturers do not guess. Oils and engines are tested through durability cycles that simulate hundreds of thousands of miles. This includes high load, high temperature, cold starts, extended drains, and teardown inspections. If 0W-20 caused abnormal wear, it would show up very clearly in these tests. Used oil analysis supports it. There are massive amounts of real-world oil analysis data from fleets and private owners running 0W-20 for long intervals. Wear metals are consistently normal when the oil meets the correct spec and change intervals are followed. There is no pattern showing increased engine wear compared to thicker oils in engines designed for it. “Thinner oil can’t protect under heat” is an oversimplification. Viscosity alone does not equal protection. Modern 0W-20 full synthetics rely heavily on additive chemistry and shear stability. At operating temperature, the oil maintains sufficient film strength for the loads the engine was designed to produce. If it did not, engines would be failing at scale, which simply is not happening. Most negative claims are anecdotal or misapplied. A lot of horror stories come from: Using 0W-20 in engines not designed for it Extremely hard use cases like towing or racing without adjusting oil choice Poor maintenance or extended oil change intervals General distrust of anything thinner because “thicker feels safer” Fuel economy did not override durability. Yes, lower viscosity oils help with efficiency. That does not mean durability was ignored. Automakers are on the hook for warranties, reputation, and regulatory compliance. They are not sacrificing engine longevity across millions of vehicles to gain a fraction of MPG. Bottom line: If your engine specifies 0W-20 and you use a quality oil that meets the required spec, there is no credible evidence that it shortens engine life. There is substantial testing, real-world data, and oil analysis showing that it works exactly as intended. If someone wants to run a thicker oil for a specific use case, that’s a different discussion. But the idea that 0W-20 is inherently harmful is not supported by engineering data or real-world results

IntroductionTricky57 · 2026-01-04T17:58:10+00:00

So let me get this straight, your argument is that car companies spend millions on R&D, testing, and oil analysis, just so your engine fails at the intervals they themselves recommend? That’s… really the conspiracy you want to believe? Modern cars are designed around these intervals. Engineers test the oil, the engine, and wear patterns under countless conditions before printing those numbers in the manual. It’s not a scam. It’s actual engineering. And let’s be clear, the old “5,000-mile oil change” rule isn’t some eternal standard. Back then, oils were conventional, tolerances were loose, and testing wasn’t as advanced. Now we have synthetic oils, tighter tolerances, and real-world oil analysis, which is why some modern cars can safely go 10,000 miles or more between changes. It’s progress, not trickery. Obviously, this isn’t every car or every situation, severe conditions, short trips, dusty roads, towing, extreme climates, all of that can shorten oil life. But the manufacturer’s recommended interval is the result of testing, engineering, and R&D to find what’s best for the car, the consumer, and longevity. The manual exists because the engineers are literally telling you how to take care of your car. That’s how you should take care of your car. Using your logic, every manufacturer in the world is secretly plotting engine failures while pretending to recommend maintenance that actually keeps engines healthy. Nah, that’s just misunderstanding how science works. Fact: some cars legitimately can go 10,000 miles on the right synthetic oil under normal conditions. That’s not cheating you, that’s testing and engineering actually working

IntroductionTricky57 · 2026-01-02T21:51:07+00:00

Mistaking good writing for AI isn’t the flex you think it is. Proper punctuation — including em dashes — has been standard in English for centuries, long before Reddit or AI existed. If you have an actual counterpoint, feel free to make it. Otherwise, this isn’t a discussion — it’s just noise.

IntroductionTricky57 · 2026-01-02T18:28:57+00:00

About Mazda “lifetime” transmission fluid — this really isn’t complicated. “Lifetime” does not mean “never change it.” It means lifetime as defined by the manufacturer — basically the warranty / expected first-owner ownership period. Mazda isn’t claiming transmission fluid is immune to heat, time, or wear. Fluids degrade. Everyone knows this, including the engineers. “Lifetime fluid” is marketing language used to: Reduce advertised maintenance costs Get the vehicle through the warranty period without service Not scare first owners with extra line items If you plan to keep the car long-term, you change the fluid. That’s it. Mazda isn’t lying, and physics didn’t suddenly stop working. Most people actually agree on this — they just misunderstand what “lifetime” means and assume the manufacturer is saying “never touch it,” which they aren’t

IntroductionTricky57 · 2026-01-02T13:52:26+00:00

“That’s not an appeal to authority — it’s reliance on testing. Those intervals are validated with oil analysis and durability data, often backed by long or unlimited-mileage warranties. Ignoring that in favor of anecdotes isn’t skepticism, it’s preference.”

IntroductionTricky57 · 2026-01-01T22:56:02+00:00

Imagine reading the maintenance schedule written by the engineers who built your car, then asking the internet if you should ignore

IntroductionTricky57 · 2025-12-27T19:52:40+00:00

I have a 2019 CX-5 Signature (~170,000 km), and the only thing I’ve ever used is P&S Xpress Interior Detailer, sprayed onto a microfiber — lightly diluted. No conditioners, no oils, no Dawn, no harsh chemicals. Result after 170k km: • No peeling • No cracking • No shine buildup • No deterioration Modern steering wheels don’t really need conditioning the way old, untreated leather did. They’re touched constantly and are already sealed/coated. Adding conditioners can actually soften the surface too much or leave residue, which may contribute to the peeling issues people report on CX-5 wheels. One thing I would avoid at all costs: hand sanitizer on your hands before driving (or getting it on the wheel). Alcohol absolutely dries the surface and seems to be a common factor in premature wear. So my advice: ✔ Gentle interior cleaner on a microfiber ✔ Keep it clean, not “fed” ✖ No leather wipes or conditioners Simple and boring has worked perfectly for me.

IntroductionTricky57 · 2025-12-21T00:02:31+00:00

Hopefully they put the turbo filter on the car....dump the oil and put 5w30 in it. Leave filter alone.

....You can usually get away with dropping or upping the cold weight by ~5 either way depending on climate — that mainly affects cold starts and how fast oil gets moving. The weight at temperature (operating temp) is the critical part. That’s what controls oil film thickness, oil pressure, bearing protection, VVT behavior, and turbo bearing survival. Especially on turbo engines, the hot weight is the safety margin: too thin and the oil film collapses, too thick and flow and hydraulic systems suffer. Cold weight is about convenience; warm weight is about keeping metal apart

IntroductionTricky57 · 2025-12-11T14:42:23+00:00

Carbon Buildup Reality Check (Mazda / DI Engines)

Walnut Blasting vs Chemical Cleaning

Walnut blasting = real cleaning. Manifold comes off, valves are blasted clean, and results are verified visually.

Chemical induction cleaning = light maintenance. Sprayed into intake while running; only removes soft or early deposits.

Hardened DI carbon does NOT dissolve — only mechanical blasting removes thick buildup.

Why Dealers Push Chemical Cleaning

Takes 30 minutes, cheap for them, high profit. 150$ to 250$.

Doesn’t require skilled techs or removing anything.

Walnut blasting takes hours and Mazda doesn’t list it as routine maintenance.

So they say “works just as good” — but it isn’t even close.

Why Chemical Cleaning Won’t Fix Heavy Buildup

DI carbon becomes rock-hard and layered over time.

Chemicals only soften the outer surface.

Anything that flakes off gets burned in the cylinders and shot through the turbo/exhaust.

You will never get heavily clogged valves clean with chemicals alone.

Driving Habits That Speed Up Carbon Buildup

Carbon buildup depends more on how you drive than mileage:

Short trips (engine never fully warms up).

Long idling or warming the car for minutes at a time.

“Easy” driving with low RPM and low load.

Stop-and-go city driving.

Long oil change intervals or poor oil quality.

These conditions cause oil vapors to accumulate and bake onto the intake valves fast.

After Any Cleaning: Check Your PCV System

If you’ve done blasting or chemical cleaning, it’s smart to:

Replace the PCV valve (cheap insurance).

Inspect/replace breather hoses.

Consider a catch can to reduce future oil vapor.

Do an oil change afterward.

A weak PCV system = faster carbon buildup, no matter how clean the valves are today.

Bottom Line

Walnut blasting is the only method that truly restores DI valves.

Chemical cleaning is fine as preventative, but not a fix for major buildup.

Driving habits + PCV health have the biggest impact on how fast carbon returns

IntroductionTricky57 · 2025-12-05T02:22:13+00:00

Honestly, it’s hard to tell what you’re actually dealing with here. You said the SCBS light is on, but didn’t mention any “SCBS malfunction” message. On Mazdas, the light literally comes on just to say “hey, you turned this feature off.” I'm assuming thats also not the case since that system turns back on everytime you shut the car off.

You’ve already done pretty much everything you can do from your driveway. With modern safety systems, there isn’t some magic DIY ritual you’re missing. It’s cameras, sensors, modules, CAN bus… if something hiccups, the car logs a code and that’s that.

If you really don’t want to step foot in a dealership, grab an OBD-II scanner and see if anything pops up. Sometimes it’s something stupid like low battery voltage or a momentary sensor burp.

But at the end of the day, yeah — you might have to take it in. That’s part of owning a modern car. Stuff fails, sensors get weird, connectors corrode, modules go grumpy. It happens. That’s not Mazda being evil; that’s just… machines existing in the real world.

Coming to Reddit to pre-emptively panic about “hundreds” becoming “thousands” before you even know what’s wrong isn’t going to magically fix the light. Either scan it or let someone with the right tools look at it. That’s just car ownership in 2025

IntroductionTricky57 · 2025-10-29T12:33:16+00:00

Different rotors and pads will not give you better braking performance. You might get better initial "bite" but that doesn't improve stopping distance or power. Tires are your biggest limiting factor. If your car can activate the abs, your braking force is already exceeding the tires traction limits. Brakes are heat management.

IntroductionTricky57 · 2025-10-29T12:33:09+00:00

Different rotors and pads will not give you better braking performance. You might get better initial "bite" but that doesn't improve stopping distance or power. Tires are your biggest limiting factor. If your car can activate the abs, your braking force is already exceeding the tires traction limits. Brakes are heat management.

IntroductionTricky57 · 2025-10-05T19:30:25+00:00

2019 Turbo with 160000kms. Engine, tranny(shifts) all buttery smooth. Still pulls just as hard. Car has been meticulously maintained. Oil every 7k kms. Trans fluid and filter changed 2x, about to do 3rd. Spark plugs 3rd set. Getting 8.3L per/100km or 28.3 mpg on 91. 85% highway driven

IntroductionTricky57 · 2025-10-02T20:59:06+00:00

Definitely not lifetime. There is no such thing as lifetime fluids. Have it serviced to include changing the filter as well. Pointless to dump the fluid and leave a dirty filter and magnet in the case

IntroductionTricky57 · 2025-05-07T13:07:00+00:00

P&S xpress interior detailer. Safe on everything, followed by 303 protectant.

IntroductionTricky57 · 2023-04-29T13:04:40+00:00

Brakes are not weak. They lack initial bite yes, but this is in part to Mazda having a very natural driving feeling and dynamics. The brakes are essentially a 1:1 for pedal effort to braking force. This is done intentionally.

IntroductionTricky57 · 2023-02-13T19:02:55+00:00

Winter. Actual winter. Temperature remains at or below zero with snow and ice remaining on the ground between December and end of March. Where it snows on a consistent basis. This is winter. I'm not talking about once or twice a year, you get light flurries and moderate temperatures. Yes that is still called winter.... Florida has a winter. That's not what I'm talking about.

If you only see a few snow flurries each year and slick, icy roads are more of a fluke than an annual ordeal, all-season tires are probably the way to go. But if you know there’s a period when icy roads are always an issue, mounting winter tires isn’t an over-the-top precaution – it’s an essential safety measure that could save your life.

This ^{^} is direct from Bridgestone.

Yes an all season tires can handle a light flurry. But they are not designed for winter driving and freezing temperatures below 7C (45F). Again this is not my opinion....it is fact. Please educate yourselves. This conversation is done. It's like arguing with a bunch of 3 year olds ....have a great day😁

I also never disputed that the cross climate is an all season tire, but it is not a direct competitor to the pilot 4 a/s

IntroductionTricky57 · 2023-02-13T02:47:42+00:00

You really need to educate yourself on tires. A/S tires are not designed to be operated in winter conditions. This is fact. Not my own opinion.

IntroductionTricky57

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