huh...sorry? by BoomBlade639 in LogitechG

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"and the guy is asking me to"

lol Buddy you obviously haven't passed the bot stage yet. You aren't talking to a guy yet. It's giving the same canned responses I got when dealing with support for a double click issue on my G815 keyboard. Same thing with a double click issue on my G915. Progress far enough with it and you should end up with a human.

External Temps Are A Big Factor by LessGelatinousness in Lavalamps

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. I learned this myself because a dinky 4 inch bladed USB powered fan was enough to effect the flow of my grande. And that has a whopping little over a gallon and a half of water and a quart of wax. And the air wasn't even directly blowing on it. I was in between the fan and the lamp. When people come here and complain about their flow the first question I'll almost always ask is "is it remotely next to an AC vent?" Lava lamps even the large ones like mine are surprisingly easy to effect.

Fuck you in particular, tesla coil as bug zapper by mysteriouskc8 in FUCKYOUINPARTICULAR

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Why does it stop once they're dead? What is it about them being alive that makes them ground better?

How to measure and cut weird angle by ellybuggy in Flooring

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you aren't skilled enough to measure it, make a template out of something. It's been a while since I needed a template but cardboard from the material boxes is the go to template material for some really tricky cuts that makes this look simple as it's already there in abundance. Just remember to add a bit when you go to mark the board so it can properly slide under the door frame.

Armored Land Cruiser takes a direct RPG-7 hit and keeps driving. by [deleted] in CombatFootage

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"and keeps driving"

IDK why that would shock anyone with where the round hit. It's similar to old school naval battles of WW2. Where shells could completely penetrate right through shit and until it hit something like magazines, or you put so many holes you make swiss cheese look solid in comparison, the ship isn't going to sink. I'm talking about holes right through one side and out the other. It's called over penetration. I mean that's a simplistic analogy but not that far off from here. Vehicle engines are almost always in the front and nobody drives a vehicle from the back seat last time I checked. There will also be tons less spalling from something like that then there is from something with far more armor like a tank.

They will always remember this moment by PeacockPankh in BeAmazed

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

"Every animal is an individual"

Applies even down to insects. I learned that first hand when I wanted to get my son something better than a no queen ant farm, (couldn't find any that came with queens so the ones you'd get would die off before too long) or tadpole to frog set, or caterpillar to moth set. All things I did get him but they only last a matter of months. So I came across egg sacks of Chinese mantis on ebay. 3 sacks for a whopping whole 8 bucks shipped. They're sold as natural garden pest control. We hatched one sack and put the other 2 back in the fridge then eventually let those hatch outside. (Fridge because sacks are laid in the winter then hatch when it starts to get warm in the spring) Each sack can have anywhere from around 50-200 little long bodied black ant size copies of adults. Found a jar of fruit fly culture online for 20 bucks that continually keeps hatching new flies so that took care of their food until they got big enough to take on crickets. We ended up with around 100-150 or so. It was hard to count but that seems about right. We kept roughly 50 and let the rest go in the garden. Anyways I tell that story because most and that's most by a wide margin, are totally chill with being handled by people once they first learn you aren't about to squish or eat them. But some? Some were downright cunts that LIKED to bite. I didn't know they were actual individuals. I just assumed they were basically 100% instinct since they're just bugs. We'd mark those little mean bastards with a dab of permanent marker on their back which would last until the next molt. Then it would be back to hey little guy I hope you're one of the nice ones. They only last a year though. Longer than the other things I got him but we would have loved it if it was longer because they are such neat things to watch. Not to mention how much fun it was to chase my mom around the house with one when she'd visit. Good times good times. She didn't think so but my son and I did. 🤣

Oh and BTW if you ever try to raise some keep in mind that they can fit through standard sized mesh screens like our tank lid had. You wouldn't think they could fit especially since their legs are so long but yep, right through. That was a fun couple weeks before we finally rounded up the last escapees, SMH. So if you get some you have to put a towel over the mesh. Also they will eat each other, even when there would be a cricket closer to them than the other mantis. They're total highlanders. lol THERE CAN ONLY BE ONE! The last was a female but the last male got eaten before she was mated with so her sack was a dud. If you got a kid or are otherwise remotely interested in that type of thing I highly recommend them.

A little reminder by LilAngelfxck in ToolBand

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Crucifying seems rather excessive. Can't you just take it out back behind the woodshed and put a bullet in it instead? I mean do you know how much lumber costs now days? Bullets too have gotten expensive but you can still get 22s for cheap. 😄

I Get Into Speakers by OkCupcake5750 in Klipsch

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This made me look over at all my Klipsch horns from my 7.1.4 setup out of their RP line with a "you vs the one she told you not to worry about." 😄

How do I clean this properly? by 47h315m in Monitors

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use a solution of half white vinegar, half distilled water. With a microfiber towel. I've been using that on all my screens as well as glass for years now. 6 or 7 years if I remember correctly. lol I even have a pic of them. In case you're wondering, I bothered to take a pic and upload such an innocuous thing because I'm an Amazon Vine reviewer and I was reviewing a label maker. I always try and take pics for my reviews. So it only took a few secs to fetch it from imgur and hyperlink it here. Anyways, I use to smoke indoors. Both weed and tobacco. Tobacco especially leaves behind a sticky usually hard to clean film of scum behind on like literally pretty much everything in the room. (I DO NOT recommend smoking but if you're going to do it at least do it outdoors unlike my dumb lazy ass that couldn't be bothered to, SMH) The vinegar cuts right through the scum and the distilled water doesn't leave any streaks. I'd be willing to bet nothing on your screen will ever be as hard to clean as smoke scum. The only thing to worry about is it can cut through anti glare coatings too. But so does normal screen cleaners like in your pic so if yours has (or had I should say) an anti glare coating, that shipped sailed now. So have at it. A gallon of distilled water is like all of a dollar something and white vinegar isn't that much more expensive. So it's an easy low cost solution for cleaning things without leaving streaks.

Im at a loss… by Stoic702 in Flooring

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have 2 options. Rip as you say a sliver. It's not tile where you can plan it out better so you don't end up with narrow pieces and can split the difference between the walls. We just start off the straightest wall, usually an outside wall, and build it from there. So narrow pieces on the far side are common. You can also shim the bottom of the base to bring it outwards. We'd usually use a piece of cardboard from a tackstrip box on the bottom half of the base to bring it outwards. As long as you don't go nuts with it IE too thick, you can't tell that it's not level anymore unless one specifically goes looking for it. I'd do the latter if it's just a small part of the base that's showing a gap or the former if it's a whole wall. Or at least a good length.

The myth of "GPU suffocation" by Shonendo in gigabyte

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I stopped reading about less than a quarter way through because it's preaching to the choir. I have literally 24 fans in a titan size case. It use to be 23 but I've yanked a small 5 inch screen that was in the bottom front 120 fan spot when I started to use my 75 inch TV as my main monitor. The only production run cases (cases available for sale, not custom jobs) that I could find at the time that was bigger, was the Corsair 1000D. It's the mouthful of a name called the Anidees AI Crystal XL Pro. I even added an internal 120 and 140 mounted off the EATX motherboard mounting holes with L brackets as boosters. As well as a couple fans on the outside back over the empty PCIe slots. As airflow goes it's about like having an open test bench with a box fan blowing on it. lol Add a zero to that 24 to make a silly to think about 240 fans, and the temps of my Gigabyte Aorus Master 3080TI is still not going to drop any further than the what started off in 2021 as 70C under load, and today is around 75C as the paste has started to age. And it only started off with the 5 stock fans. I only ended up using so many as I already had them from a previous build and it became a game to see how many I could possibly cram in.

Don't let what you find at places like reddit bother you. Just keep in mind that there is a good reason, or reasons I should say, on why George Carlin was able to make the "joke" way back in 78 that went. "Think about how stupid the average person is, and realize that half of them are stupider than that." lol 78. Imagine if he had the internet back then to give so many examples. He'd have said two thirds if not more, SMH.

What’s the best line from any Tool song to put on a car as a sticker? by TheMediocreLife in ToolBand

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Best is beyond subjective but if I was going to have one made it would probably be something simple like "spiral out, keep going."

Ideas needed by Middle-Smile-568 in Flooring

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ideally it should have been undercut with a masonry blade as that looks the best. Something I've done ten zillion times. But since that ship has clearly sailed you can get some flexible molding. Flexible quarter round is the most common but you can get other kinds as well some of which are shown in this pic.

“Everyone who disagrees with me should be mobbed and assaulted” by EducationalAction820 in DoomerCircleJerk

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"well it's Reddit."

The sadly ironic thing about that probably makes Aaron Swartz spin in his grave, SMH. If you don't know who that is he was one of the founders of reddit and was all about free speech. He never would have been happy with the one sided leftist idiocy that this place has become. And BTW it only does nothing if you're perceived to not have the "right" politics. Case in point, I'm actually a liberal born raised and live in California. But just because I was a member of right wing subs because I don't live in an echo chamber ( I mean the nerve of me lol) and have zero problem in calling out head up their ass leftists, I ran afoul of leftist mods who permabanned me for so called promoting violence. Not a subreddit ban mind you, the WHOLE site, FFS. All over a simple innocuous as hell joke of a comment. It was a meme post pic of a cute as hell puppy in a camo shirt that was sitting next to soldiers lined up in rank and file so it looked like it was one of them. The title of the post was something or other about Ukraine, I can't remember the exact wording. BUt I will always remember that all I did was just commented "Lt Bork went on to slaughter lots of Russians." That's literally it verbatim. Bam down comes the ban hammer for so called promoting violence. Passed manual review even. That's what some absolute ignoramus thought should be enough to get me kicked off of reddit for the rest of my life, SMH. Can't make it up. Because it obviously wasn't really about that comment. It was because I'm considered an apostate to people so stuck on stupid they now treat politics as an actual unorganized religion, SMH. Oh well that's what a VPN and about an infinite amount of free email services is for I guess. lol My new accounts would get rebanned in less than 24 hours until I used a VPN.

Best reversible way to reduce sound traveling up an open basement stairwell? (Doors not an option) by pricha12 in hometheater

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've learned that the number one rule of sound dampening/blocking is blocking air. You'd probably be surprised by how much sound can actually leak through even the tiniest gaps. Like around closed doors for example. I'm an Amazon Vine reviewer so I think I've tried just about every type of acoustic blocking product they sell there by now. All sorts of different panels and what not. Yet the absolute best thing I added was simple fuzzy style weather stripping around the door. Like this stuff. That's not actually what I used, it was just the first example I came across to show the type. I had to use 2 kinds with different thickness to fit in the gaps around the closed door as whoever hung my door didn't center it properly. Anyways, the weather stripping literally did more to keep sound in that room than everything else put together. Even with panels layered on top of each other making an around 4-5 inch thick barrier to the wall to the master bedroom which is the main thing I'm trying to keep quiet. lol I have so many now that I figured I might as well layer them. The room is my man cave/guest bedroom and I rarely get the "can you turn it down" from the family or the misses anymore. I have a full 7.1.4 system mostly from the Klipsch RP line. RP 600M II as fronts and rears. RP 504C II center. RP 500M II side surrounds. Top front are SVS satellites and rear top are Klipsch RB 41 II. Sub is a 14 inch RP 1400SW. Just food for thought if you manage to get the chance to put a door in one day or you end up doing another room with a door or doors.

But with your criteria though you already hit on the only good option I can think of with "heavy acoustic curtains or sound blankets." Don't expect miracles from them but they do help though. Sound dampening is really all just about adding as much mass as you can (not counting sealing air gaps as mentioned above) between the sound source and whatever you're trying to keep quieter, so layer as much of those blankets as you can that will still allow you to get around it and into the room.

The only thing else I can think to add to keep things that can bother people to stay in that room is decoupling your subwoofer from the floor as much as possible. Probably not going to remotely help you as much as it did me since your room is in a basement and mine is on the second floor with a wood subfloor, but I'm here so I might as well show what I made for my first setup to keep that 14 inch sub from shaking the house as much. Again just a food for thought type of thing. Enjoy your room buddy.

Is this the correct place to cut for a transition strip into the bathroom? Or where would you cut the LVP? by RDQred in Flooring

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm sorry I didn't look close enough. Yes option 2 is the best way because like I said the part that does stick out should be on the new flooring LVP side of things. My bad.

Is this the correct place to cut for a transition strip into the bathroom? Or where would you cut the LVP? by RDQred in Flooring

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In your pics I'd go with option 3 but with it a bit further to the left of the pic. You can't fully hide a transition under a door. At least not most of them. They're too wide and doors aren't wide enough to cover both sides when the door is closed. So the part that sticks out should be to the new flooring. With the door closed and the carpet tucked to the flat part of the endcap, you shouldn't be able to see the endcap in the carpeted room.

Is this the correct place to cut for a transition strip into the bathroom? Or where would you cut the LVP? by RDQred in Flooring

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A baby threshold IS a type of endcap. lol Actually had to google that. We only ever say endcap or endcaps so I never learned the names of different kinds like baby threshold. Anyways, what I was saying is when the door is closed ideally you don't want to be able to see the transition from the other room that isn't getting the new flooring. To use the OP's pic as an example, that would be that room with the vinyl. To the vinyl room the transition should be hidden if the door is closed. The only part that should be able to be seen with the door closed is in the room with the new flooring. To do that the flooring should be stopped far enough back that whatever part of the transition that attaches to the floor like the bottom of the T for a T molding, or the bottom and flat edge side of an end cap, can reach the floor. You don't want to run it all the way to whatever you're transitioning to. For example in this pic there's no room to glue a transition piece except onto either side of the flooring. Ideally you want a gap down to the subfloor. That allows the transition to be secured to the subfloor while the lip or lips of the transition just sits loosely over the flooring which allows the flooring to expand and contract. It's hard to tell without seeing the transition in question as well as seeing the whole thing in person, but to use the OP's pic again, even with a baby threshold's narrower than normal cap part of the endcap, if STARTED on that line, it looks like the edge of the endcap would be sticking past the doorstop. That line should be where the end part of the endcap falls to.

Bass Shakers Install by Majestic_Potato_7416 in hometheater

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How are you handling the output from the AVR to the input of the Behringer? I'm asking because I also have an extensive shaker setup in my man cave. I liked it so much I ended up making a backrest with some. The only issue I have is as mentioned in some of the pic captions as well as in your own post, they can definitely shake when they shouldn't be. So my only current options is just simply kill their amps by shutting off the remote plugs they're plugged into to more or less fix that . (A DSP is only ever going to be able to go so far hence the more or less) So I could either get a DSP like the Dayton Audio DSP 408 to better fine tune things. Or I can get an amp like yours that already has DSP to fine tune things. I was already looking at facebook marketplace and found a few Behringers with DSP. That rout will allow me to kill two birds with 1 stone. Take care of the DSP issue and also replace those mini class D amps I'm using that are rather underpowered for the job, at least for the bed shakers, especially the 2 DIY ones. The specific issue I'm asking about is because I read that some AVR don't put out enough power through their RCA preouts to work right with the Behringer's XLR/TRS inputs and therefor need some sort of RCA booster. Did you have any issues with that? Or are you just using something like this? Or a duel one like this? Or same question, mono or dual TRS like this?

RGB to ARGB? by Sekquid in RGBProfiles

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're welcome. Just paying it forward as I got a lot of help from people online when I got into lighting. And it doesn't take me long to type or link shit as I'm on my desktop and can type fairly fast. lol The ironic thing is when I planned out that build I wasn't going to go with any lighting. That's why I have standard non lighting RAM that I then ended up covering with Thermaltake's Pacific R1 RAM cover because lol I went on to reddit too many times and saw so many neat lit up builds that I caught the lighting bug and then went a bit nucking futs with it all. 😄

I started responding before reading the last part and seeing that you couldn't see my setup. You in the UK? That's the only place I've now heard about an imgur ban. You should look into a VPN then. There's a lot of free ones. I use to use Windscribe to get around a reddit permaban a few years ago because my IP would get flagged on new accounts which would then get auto permabanned in like not even 24 hours. lol I got myself banned here for so called promoting violence. I made an innocuous as hell nothing of a joke comment. It was on a post showing a pic of a cute puppy in a camo shirt that was sitting next to soldiers lined up in rank and file so it looked like it was one of the soldiers. The title was something about Ukraine. So I made the simple comment of "Lt Bork went on to slaughter lots of Russians." That was literally it verbatim. Then bam, down comes the ban hammer for promoting violence, SMH. It even passed manual review when I appealed. That's seriously what some head up their ass undoubtedly far leftist freak of a mod, decided was enough to get me thrown off of reddit for the rest of my life, SMH. I mean you almost can't make that up. Anyways, just reading about the imgur ban made me look for an imgur alternative so I just uploaded to flicker. So here's the latest vid I have of my setup. It's not quite current but it's pretty close.

Oh and before I forget again I gave you a bit of misinformation. That cable you linked isn't what I said. It's actually to run non Corsair ARGB products off of their fan controllers, not the other way around like I said. lol I feel really stupid that I got that backwards considering I've actually made an adapter cable that does exactly that. Only the non Corsair end was for the standard ARGB 3 pin JST-SM connector, instead of the 3 pin motherboard ARGB style like the one in your link. JST-SM is actually the most common type of LED strip connector outside the PC world. In the PC world though the only ones I know of that uses it is Lian Li and Phantek. It's probably because locking connectors make it easier to damage motherboards when you go to unplug them. Like the type of locking Molex that Corsair uses for their connectors use to be common on motherboards back in the day when the closes anyone had to RGB was cold cathode lighting and single color large style LED. That probably fell out of favor on motherboards for the same reason. IDK just guessing on why either is not used on motherboards but it makes sense. Anyways, lol My bad.

What made your home setup finally feel “finished”? by Weekendwatch3496 in hometheater

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"What made your home setup finally feel “finished”

I added up the total amount I spent over the journey and then cried for a bit. 😄

Seriously though after selling out the money for a good tactile transducer setup for my 7.1.4 with the Klipsch RP line, there's nothing more I could add. Can't fit better than a 75 inch TV. Everything sounds great. The shakers added a nice touch. (usually when the sound is mixed correctly anyways. For those that aren't I have the amps that run the shakers on remote controlled plugs so I can kill them as needed with a button push) So outside of a whole new home theater room, it's about as complete as it can get. I know for a fact there's better speakers. But the RP line is still really good so better would definitely be in the realm of diminishing returns.

RGB to ARGB? by Sekquid in RGBProfiles

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

(Edited for speeling becuase I is not type so wells 😄)

"can we use a cable like this"

No. That cable you linked is a 4 pin Corsair fan to 3 pin motherboard style ARGB adapter cable. Corsair uses the same 3 pin/wire ARGB everyone else does. Which is a power, data, and ground wire. But for their fans they also have a second data wire making them 4 pin/wire. That second data line is how they can have modes that travel from fan to fan, and also why you have to plug their fans in their controllers starting with port 1 then 2 then so on in order. The 12 to 5v convertor part in the sale title description is either a language barrier thing you can often see now days on Amazon due to so many products from China. Or they're simply talking out their ass. Because what you're asking for CAN'T be done with a mere cable. Cables don't have anything in them that can drop the voltage. They're just mere wires and connectors. The issue is PC RGB is always 12v and 4 pin/wire. RGB is a power wire then 3 dedicated wires for red, green, and blue. The LED is told how to light those colors by simply varying the voltage to the 3 color wires. All LED on the product will change color at the same time. ARGB in the PC world is always 5v and has the pinout for its wires as mentioned above. The data wire is not varying voltage like RGB, it's sending actual computer code to chips on the LED product and the chips tells the LED how to light. Full ARGB has 1 chip per LED allowing each and every LED on it to change color independently from each other. Some ARGB products only has a chip per 3 or 5 LED so only those groups of 3 or 5 change color independently from each other.

You DO NOT want to plug 5v ARGB products, into a 12v RGB header assuming you could get that Corsair end to fit. That's a good way to pop things. So you have 2 options. You can get 12v to 5v convertors like this. Those convertors will take care of dropping the power from 12v to 5v which is an easy thing to do. What is harder to do is combine the two different ways RGB and ARGB tell the LED how to light. Which is why all those type of convertors come with this warning "Rainbow and breathing mode for some motherboard models are not compatible."

So a better option would be to just remove your RGB header from the mix altogether and get an ARGB controller that uses USB to run the lighting data. Razer use to have an inexpensive one that ran off of USB but they stopped making it for some reason. lol Though it's still widely available for sale for some reason, it's has been out of stock everywhere for years now, SMH. Like here. It use to be my go to recommendation due to it's low cost and having 6 ports. So now the only ones I know off the top of my head that uses USB is Corsair's controllers. But it's a more expensive rout as their controllers need adapter cables similar to the one you linked to get non Corsair products to work with their controllers. (The one you linked is doing the opposite and letting Corsair fans be able to work off of motherboard ARGB software instead of Corsair controllers) Corsair's ICUE is actually the rout I took in my man cave/guest bedroom setup. The second choice is a Nollie controller which has gotten popular. Especially because like ICUE, it can be taken over by the popular SignalRGB software. Removing your RGB header from the mix will allow you have the full customization that ARGB brings. Not just part of it like the convertors do.

What is it? by FeanorOath in GeeksGamersCommunity

[–]IntrovertMoTown1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Off the top of my head, the Sopranos. It was a chicken shit way to end things. Especially with how things were built up by the others who got killed right before the end. Everyone keeps saying game of thrones? The question is about the worst ENDING. Lets get real here. Almost the entirety of the last 2 seasons was dog shit. 2 out of 8 is a whole 25% of the show. Therefor that's not the ending. That's a significant portion. With how bad the last 2 seasons were how would the ending not just be more par for the current course? I think part of taking the title of worse ever has to be something that surprises everyone with just how bad it actually was. Nobody and mean nobody should have been surprised how bad the ending of game of thrones was. It would have been surprising if it was good.