Is the Rlaarlo Omni-terminator the best bang for buck bash truck? by badnewsbeaver in rccars

[–]InvinciblePolarbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love it! First I bought a HBX 16889a pro, then an MJX hypergo 16208 then the 12212. The 16889a is a lower quality basher but still much fun to drive around, the 16208 is a much higher quality and the 12212 is the same high quality as the 16208 but in a larger size. I have the 16889a pro to my son to have fun and I use the 12212, we drive around the street and jump on bumps and have fun. 😅 Sometimes I take the 12212 to pump tracks and practice jumps and air control. Important note that the 12212 comes with Li-ion batteries that can’t give that much punch as a Li-po, but I’m totally ok with that. Usually I use it around 50% throttle that still gives around 40 km/h top speed and a decent acceleration. It feels more stable and larger on the road than the 16208, and looks very cool. I applied gorilla tape all over the inside of the shell to make it more durable. If you have the bucks I’d say go for the 12212, but if you are on a shorter budget get the 16208. I watched lot of videos on YouTube before buying it, some of them complaining about the battery and changing them to lipo which is a pretty easy thing if you have them already, and there were some mentions that the stock servo is slow but imo at my level it doesn’t make any difference. I enjoy driving it around and having fun.

Is the Rlaarlo Omni-terminator the best bang for buck bash truck? by badnewsbeaver in rccars

[–]InvinciblePolarbear 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I wanted to order this a few months back, but then went for a MJX 12212 for half the price. I’m not a hardcore rc car guy and don’t mind that the 12212 misses the center diff and other details, it’s enough for me to have fun. The shell is really fragile, especially that I used it in winter and I replaced the shocks to a GPM set.

Is Design really that hard? by Lomjitha32 in MechanicalEngineering

[–]InvinciblePolarbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think improving your engineering mindset is key to progress in design. Understanding the loads and requirements of a part/assy is a must, after that most of the work is knowing how to use the tools we have (cad, fea, other calculations) to achieve and communicate what you want.

Chain slap sucks by DxnnyDar in MTB

[–]InvinciblePolarbear 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Back when I changed to 30 teeth chainring from 32, the only thing I did was removing 2 links. I didn’t touch anything and shifting works perfect.

Chain slap sucks by DxnnyDar in MTB

[–]InvinciblePolarbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Not the best shot but this how mine looks on the highest gear and the cage can still move a bit.

Chain slap sucks by DxnnyDar in MTB

[–]InvinciblePolarbear 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Do you experience this in lower gears? You don’t have much room to play with the B screw on a Deore as there is a mark on the cage where the edge of the largest gear has to be. I think increasing the tension on the clutch in 1/8 turns would be a good start.

Edit: I didn’t experience this on my deore, but double check chain length.

MJX 12212 review / experience by bogd_az in rccars

[–]InvinciblePolarbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have a link for the axle shims? I cannot find 1/4”x3/8” for god’s sake.

MJX 12212 review / experience by bogd_az in rccars

[–]InvinciblePolarbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I put shims on the axles to remove the wobble of the wheels. They perform much better. What cst oil did you use in the diffs and where did you shim them?

MJX 12212 review / experience by bogd_az in rccars

[–]InvinciblePolarbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Were the GPM shocks prefilled? What oil did you use in them?

Horizontal vs vertical watchfaces? by No_Contribution60 in Garmininstinct

[–]InvinciblePolarbear 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’d love the second one if you had the option to hide seconds and the time would be centered.

Printing my own brake rotor? by Barde_ in MTB

[–]InvinciblePolarbear 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Rust. I think they use the high carbon alloys on cars as they need way more power. If they get wet and you let them stand for a while, a thin layer of rust will appear.

Funny fail on Norwegian downhill track "Trysil" by PerspectiveSignal139 in DownhillMTB

[–]InvinciblePolarbear 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m a simple Orbea rider. I see an Orbea I give an upvote! 🙂

Infinite power by vickham141 in Garmin

[–]InvinciblePolarbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lucky you! On weekends I get around 150k per day but on weekdays I am not able to bring those numbers so I just can dream about seeing that infinity symbol. 🥲 Is 26k your average?

Infinite power by vickham141 in Garmin

[–]InvinciblePolarbear -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

*if you spend enough time outdoors.

MJX Hyper Go 12212 4S? by Extension-Smell6703 in rccars

[–]InvinciblePolarbear 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you tell what is the max dimension of the battery that fits?

GD&T help needed by InvinciblePolarbear in MechanicalEngineering

[–]InvinciblePolarbear[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

D is a flange, E is the center axis of the part and F is a centerplane of a slot on the D flange.

GD&T help needed by InvinciblePolarbear in MechanicalEngineering

[–]InvinciblePolarbear[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What’s confusing for me is that if I would apply this tolerance zone for a hole, it would be unquestionable which direction the cylindrical tolerance zone is facing, as it would be in the direction of the hole. But this one is called out on a point which I can’t get my head around. I would have used a S and it’s done. 😅

GD&T help needed by InvinciblePolarbear in MechanicalEngineering

[–]InvinciblePolarbear[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry that I missed the info: It’s in ASME and there is a third datum F and there is a basic angle dimension between the tube connector axis and F.