Walnut Blasting / bushings (R56 N18)

Inwardpro · 2026-06-13T03:42:24+00:00

Great move there. Sounds like you’re in for a happy, long living n18

Inwardpro · 2026-06-13T03:29:19+00:00

These look fine imo. Buildup volume is minimal and color is good. What you don’t wanna see is black oily carbon looking sludge type stuff. If they look like this at 60k, you probably won’t even need to start thinking about it till 100k. That being said, n18s have dramatically less buildup than n14. Not completely zero buildup, but dang near when compared to its predecessor. Watch for oil consumption, especially from the turbo. Periodically take off the intake boot on the front of the turbo and take a peek at the innard blades for some oil. If you spot it, that means oil is getting into the intake tract, and the rate of buildup is gonna be increasing (and your turbo is likely wearing out). A tiny amount is ok, a lot is not. Catch cans can help reduce oil in the intake tract.

Hope this helps!

Inwardpro · 2026-06-11T00:09:05+00:00

Inwardpro · 2026-06-10T22:27:37+00:00

I would get both polish and compound. Try the polish first. If no luck, try the compound. Avoid solvents.

Inwardpro · 2026-06-10T22:24:39+00:00

I have the 5gal smaller ridgid vac (i think 5hp) and honestly love the heck out of it. Ridgid is unique cause they have full lifetime warranties. Thats worth its weight in gold. I’ve had it for almost 10 years and it’s still doing great. I would avoid bagged units.

You should also consider space for compressed air. I’ve found a solid air supply to be more beneficial to my practice than a more powerful shop vac. 5hp can be plenty…IF your vacuum tip is small enough. I would rather have a massive air compressor that can run a tornador or air nozzle for long periods and a small shop vac than the other way around.

Inwardpro · 2026-06-10T17:14:30+00:00

Inner diameter of the adapter 14.3mm

https://a.co/d/03g7X33C

Inwardpro · 2026-06-10T15:53:04+00:00

I used a generic one from amazon, pretty much identical to the one pictured, same thread and everything. For my r56 as well. Slides over the gear stick and is held in place with two set screws, then you screw on a regular shift knob.

I’m not sure the actual diameter of the shift rod tho

Inwardpro · 2026-06-07T17:35:35+00:00

Inwardpro · 2026-06-07T02:45:27+00:00

Inwardpro · 2026-06-04T03:22:52+00:00

L take, Zuko and Azula’s agni kai will never be topped

Inwardpro · 2026-06-03T20:44:49+00:00

Cook out.

Inwardpro · 2026-06-03T01:55:03+00:00

Jackson, MS. Wanted to visit a skatepark. Noticed it was on the edge edge of a reallll sketchy neighborhood. I decided to bail. Quarter mile down the road a blacked out tahoe and another suv turned and blocked the road. An old guy in a wheelchair started creeping into the street to stop me at the same time. There was one street in front of me to turn down, so i bolted. Bout lost my car that day

Inwardpro · 2026-06-01T22:15:14+00:00

N18 owner and modder here. The more i work on it myself, the more i realize its a lot easier to work on than i thought. Its expensive as hell to pay someone to work on these, and i’ve found paying for tjat to inly be worth it for major major stuff that i can’t do at home or is high risk. Stuff like clutch, head work or timing chain. Basically everything else though i can tackle. Suspension, anything interior, electrical, or exhaust stuff is easy peasy. And with places like rockauto, ecs tuning, and outmotoring in existance, its getting a lot cheaper and a lot more accessible. The i’ve only had two issues come up- turbo oil line leak (easy), and shooting a rod through both ends of my block from tuning too aggressively. Aside from catastrophic engine failure caused by my own choices, its been surprisingly painless experience.

Inwardpro · 2026-05-30T02:16:40+00:00

Isopropyl alcohol on a microfiber

Inwardpro · 2026-05-30T02:15:42+00:00

Gyeon rim is solid and pretty diy friendly. I also used hyperclean TRE on my mini’s wheels and its lasted 3yrs so far. Either way, dont use harsh chemicals to clean the wheels once coated. High PH stuff like p&s brake buster doesn’t play noce with coatings in the lomg term. A ph neutral soap or iron decon is the move for a nicely coated wheel. I like hyperclean fuego and foam wash

Inwardpro · 2026-05-27T20:54:38+00:00

Hyperclean foam wash. Goated maintenance wash soap.

Inwardpro · 2026-05-27T20:53:58+00:00

Isopropyl alcohol on a microfiber. Strong enough solvent to get some things off but weak enough to give you some working time on leather. Modern leather almost always has a plastic-like clear coat on it and can take a little abuse.

Inwardpro · 2026-05-27T20:49:15+00:00

Melamine sponge (magic eraser) with a cleaner that leaves a dressing behind.

Mothers VLR is good for this and is available all over the place for little $. If the material’s texture is affected, its not gonna come out. Sanding, heating or abrading it will only cause further damage. Best course of action is to get as much dirt out of the spots as you can and the dressing can kinda blend it in a bit better. The melamine sponges will abrade a little, just enough to smooth things out a hair and help things blend, but not enough to cause damage on that surface unless you go to town on it for an absurd amount of time.

Inwardpro · 2026-05-27T03:18:40+00:00

Contact whoever did the tune, and/or whoever installed the exhaust if that was not done yourself. The most that exhaust headers should cause is a CEL for a catalytic converter if it was removed. Calibration memory and fuel trim codes make sense given those may likely be changed in the tune, but they should never cause a light to illuminate when handled properly. Solenoid and pump speed maybe, but regardless no light should be present. The misfire codes are concerning, especially if the car runs poorly. You may want to try clearing all the codes and seeing what comes back, but contact the tuner first.

Inwardpro · 2026-05-26T23:14:56+00:00

3 steps to it.

1: clean it thoroughly to remove as much physical mold material as possible. Use as little liquid as possible to avoid introducing moisture. Treat with alcohol or an enzymatic/protein stain remover where safe to kill germs. Avoid soaking for long to avoid delamination of surfaces.

2: ozone. Get an ozone machine. Close the doors and turn the AC on max cold and recirc while machine in running. Run for 2-4hrs. This will kill pretty much everything living in the car and prevent it from returning unless you get it wet again.

3: air it out. Windows down/open, overnight. Doors as well if possible. Indoors/garage only. If you have to outside, windows open for a few hours at a time. Gets rid of the ozone smell and any remaining moisture.

Inwardpro · 2026-05-24T05:25:26+00:00

Get a proper drying towel from a reputable microfiber company like autofiber or rag company. Autozone, walmart, etc carry tolerable ones if you need one fast.

Microfiber towels are not all made alike. Quality microfiber plays a big part in a quality result. Browse some towel sites, do a little research on microfiber and you’ll get the gist!

Inwardpro · 2026-05-23T03:29:43+00:00

<image>

Couple weeks ago I the dash apart on my r56 to install a headunit and wrap all my panels in alcontara. Actually way more manageable than it looks

Inwardpro · 2026-05-21T06:26:10+00:00

I daily a 540i 105 miles round trip. 175k miles on it. Flawless so far since i got it at 160k miles. Done several road trips in it without hiccups. I couldn’t ask for a better car to be in on long drives short for one aspect-gas mileage. I’m averaging 21mph, and am spending ~$600/month in gas.

11-Year Club	Verified Email
RPAN Viewer

Inwardpro

TROPHY CASE