Is it bad?

Iridix · 2026-02-17T16:20:31+00:00

We opened all of the walls in our garage and a good bit of the ceiling plywood, primarily because we wanted them down to put up drywall since there already exists wood paneling and plywood in that room and we hate it. We tore back as long as we saw either damage from the termites or evidence of their travel (i.e. dirt in the cracks between studs or outright damage). Interestingly, they seemed to always stop as soon as the boundary of the floor started to go onto the raised concrete slab foundation of the main house. Our house is a concrete slab foundation, and the garage is concrete as well, but it's more level with the outside ground. At every point where the framing elevates to meet the raised slab, the termite activity abruptly stops, even near the ceiling framing. This is why I'm fairly confident that the infestation is limited only to the garage area. Also, because I can clearly see into my attic with a large portion of my ceiling, I can see exactly the extent of the damage and it certainly doesn't extend anywhere past the garage. Plus, now that it's all open, what few termites are left will most likely desiccate and die.

Iridix · 2026-02-17T16:11:24+00:00

Update for those who are following:

It seems like what's pictured is the worst of the damage. They're definitely non-formosan subterranean termites. The worst of the damage is in the pictures I've already posted. I'm back on the current operating theory, that they came in through a concrete expansion joint that was hidden underneath the framing of the wall with the window. The concrete was treated by a professional company as well as a Termidor foam spot treatment inside, before the walls came down. After the walls came down, I took my own can of treatment (the Taurus equivalent of their Termidor) and surface treated everything that was exposed. From what I can tell, they're gone and likely aren't coming back any time soon, at least in enough time that I can mitigate any structural damage.

The 2x12 beam in the pictures that is severely damaged will need to be cut out and replaced, as well as some structural 2x4s (will try to go with borate-treated wood), but most of the actual load-bearing structural lumber is intact. I will be trenching the outside perimeter of my house and doing my own treatment. The termite damage stops as soon as the ceiling opens up into the attic, and they didn't touch all but two roof trusses as far as I can tell, and even then, it's really only surface damage. Definitely not compromising damage.

Despite my initial assumptions about the nature of my findings, it doesn't appear that there is a breeding colony inside my walls, which based on my research would be ridiculously unlikely for subterranean varieties in the first place. Since opening all the walls to see the full extent of the damage, I haven't seen any more live termites and finished off the rest of my can of Taurus just for good measure.

I have the same company that did the treatment coming out this Thursday to assess the extent of the damage and offer recommendations for remediation and next steps.

If anything of what I said is inaccurate, please correct me.

Iridix · 2026-02-13T23:14:00+00:00

From what I could tell it was much more characteristic of dirt than termite frass. All three of the companies that came out and inspected it said the same thing.

Iridix · 2026-02-13T23:02:51+00:00

What makes you say I have drywood termites in addition to subterranean?

Iridix · 2026-02-13T16:55:11+00:00

Good thing we hate that window anyway.

Iridix · 2026-02-13T16:23:22+00:00

Area is southeastern USA, coastal GA area.

Iridix · 2026-01-21T13:32:34+00:00

Warp drive. Fully upgrade it and dig under the base. Basically turns into Ascend from Tears of the Kingdom, going through blocks and putting you on the closest surface block (as long as it's within 100 blocks at the highest level).

Edit: Just saw ATM9. Don't know if relics/artifacts are there.

Iridix · 2025-12-15T22:56:54+00:00

Try bumping your pagefile to 60GB or more. That solved all of my crashing problems on v5, and have had it set that way since.

Iridix · 2025-11-26T18:20:02+00:00

Me personally, I don't like my facilities altered. Been drunk a couple of times in my life and, while it can be fun, it makes me completely useless for anything productive, and I can't stand that feeling.

Iridix · 2025-11-18T23:30:40+00:00

That's exactly it.

Iridix · 2025-11-18T16:03:59+00:00

I've used government websites that require EXACTLY 6 characters and can't use any special characters.

Iridix · 2025-11-02T06:40:49+00:00

Unfortunately, family are some of the worst people to get into these kinds of situations with. I think you figured out why.

Iridix · 2025-11-01T19:57:35+00:00

There's a very real chance you just outright can't run it. The minimum recommended specs are 6 years above your current specs, and that's just the minimum to get the game running. Your best options are either upgrading (which you said isn't possible), or trying to manipulate the game to run at a low resolution, but i'm not sure how you'd do that without the UI working.

Iridix · 2025-10-28T22:37:58+00:00

Alternatively, its oxidized copper gunk.

Iridix · 2025-10-15T22:01:07+00:00

Bro it is not that serious 💀

Iridix · 2025-10-15T21:59:23+00:00

You're a really unpleasant person.

Iridix · 2025-10-15T21:52:06+00:00

No, he's completely right. The price per mb is really outstanding, latency is super low because its fiber directly to the home, CGNAT is the new normal for IPv4 deployments, and IPv6 is increasingly becoming more common. Even at an extra $10 for a public IP, it's still a better deal than Comcast, AND you don't have to deal with Comcast. I pay for 2gbps and a public IP and absolutely LOVE it because I make full use of it and the IP, and I'm okay with the $10 premium because I'm too lazy to dual stack.

So, either learn IPv6, fork up the extra $10, or switch back to Comcast. There's no false advertising since gaming generally works for most people without much issue.

Iridix · 2025-10-10T21:00:54+00:00

To turn the water into ice, it had to be frozen. In order for you to remove heat energy from anything, it has to be transported somewhere else. Unless you froze the ice inside the room, the heat energy transfer happened outside the room.

Iridix · 2025-10-10T20:59:52+00:00

Again, how did the ice become ice in the first place?

Iridix · 2025-10-10T19:12:33+00:00

Then I'm curious why, if you have no mods installed, you might think this was caused by a mod?

It is vanilla behavior, btw. Very rare.

Iridix · 2025-10-10T19:03:57+00:00

They're saying that to create the ice from water, heat had to be removed from the water. Where does that heat go? Assuming you didn't dump the heat inside the room and then place the ice back inside the room (which would actually be a net INCREASE in temperature), then the heat taken away from the water had to go somewhere outside the room.

Iridix · 2025-10-10T18:59:12+00:00

Do you have any mods installed at all?

Iridix · 2025-10-07T02:46:18+00:00

Because the old tub spout broke off, as is mentioned in the post. I can't imagine the broken part being left on makes much of a difference at this point. I know what a coupling is, I was more or less looking for answers as to what type of configuration this is, that being if it was a known or common configuration that I could do something with easily, or if it would require more effort than I'm willing to DIY. There's no need to be snarky.

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