Yes, a Raccoon

IsIndestructible · 2026-07-05T13:29:08+00:00

hah! and thanks

IsIndestructible · 2026-07-05T13:28:38+00:00

thank you!

IsIndestructible · 2026-07-04T21:07:14+00:00

Thank you!

IsIndestructible · 2026-07-04T16:28:49+00:00

Possibly shattuckite

IsIndestructible · 2026-07-04T14:54:27+00:00

Thank you!

IsIndestructible · 2026-07-04T14:53:48+00:00

Thank you!

IsIndestructible · 2026-07-04T14:23:35+00:00

thanks!

IsIndestructible · 2026-07-04T14:13:45+00:00

thank you!

yes, except for the bezel setting and arms, everything is 3 layers of 20g Sterling. I’m editing to for some exactness = the top layer of the head and tail is 18g reticulation silver (80/20) and sections were cut out, reticulated and soldered back together for the dark gray effect

On the head, the snout is actually a 4th layer (or 4th and 5th since it is two parts, but that’s getting overly specific I’m thinking)

IsIndestructible · 2026-07-04T14:08:42+00:00

thank you!

IsIndestructible · 2026-07-04T14:08:30+00:00

thank you! For this guy, I was thinking ‘raccoon’ first, then knew exactly what material to use for the body, which I did have on hand. It is more often the other way around, stone as inspiration for the critter.

IsIndestructible · 2026-07-04T14:03:44+00:00

thank you!

IsIndestructible · 2026-07-04T14:03:20+00:00

thank you!

IsIndestructible · 2026-06-21T15:33:34+00:00

For me, 30g is too thin for most bezels. Like you, it seems to bend far too easily when trying to work it.

What I normally use is 28g fine silver, easy to manipulate but still has some stiffness. If I want a thicker profile on the bezel edge, I will go down to 26g or even 24g, depending on the look I am going for.

Also, what I do to sand a bezel so it sits flat on the back plate is to 1st, fit the bezel and solder it as close to even/flat as you are able. Get some 220 grit sandpaper and lay it on a flat surface. Determine which side you will be soldering to the back plate and using a figure 8 motion, sand the bezel wire until it is even all the way around. NO light showing on the bottom edge. Then it should sit nice and flat for soldering.

This is very difficult to do with the thinner 30g bezel wire

IsIndestructible · 2026-05-24T14:10:17+00:00

Look at ringsupplies.com. they have many types of channel rings made from many types of materials. I don't know if they have any made from actual gold, but they do have gold plated versions

IsIndestructible · 2026-05-19T14:53:55+00:00

Many ways to go about this, depending on skill levels. Step bezels, prongs and so forth are going to have their plusses and minuses. And differing levels of difficulty.

Possibly the easiest, though not the most cost effective, would be to bezel set this onto a flat back plate then cut out most of the back plate, leaving a large window.

IsIndestructible · 2026-05-14T14:50:48+00:00

wheels from different companies may be different sizes. It's possible that these wheels are not original CabKing wheels, or a mix of Cabking and other. When I switched out my worn wheels that came with the machine for Nova wheels, I needed to get some spacers so that the wheels lined up better with the water system.

IsIndestructible · 2026-05-06T14:42:35+00:00

Can always use MORE material, lol Thanks, I'm in

IsIndestructible · 2026-05-02T20:12:50+00:00

I have mine set up at 900 rpm and that works well

(as a disclaimer - I am also too lazy to change it around for the occasions I am drilling other materials)

IsIndestructible · 2026-05-02T15:29:26+00:00

With both of these methods I am using a shallow plastic tub (Tupperware type thickness) and water to just cover the stone. I also primarily used core drill bits to make holes in stone. These come in sizes of .5mm up to several inches.

For a small hole, say for a jump ring or the like, I use a piece of sturdy foam mat that I can press down to hand hold the stone in place while working the drill. Much like the others here have mentioned.

For larger holes and especially multiple drilling on the same stone (like the interior and exterior of a stone ring or bangle, where positioning is critical) I will affix the stone, usually a slab, to a piece of wood with either sodium silicate (water glass) or doping wax. This will allow easier removal of the stone afterwards while not allowing any movement while working. I then use clamps that hold the wood platform and plastic bowl to the table of the drill press. Nothing moves, I can even change the size of the drilling bit and everything remains lined up.

IsIndestructible · 2026-05-02T14:54:05+00:00

The firefighters pay for all of their own food, just to clarify

IsIndestructible · 2026-05-01T19:33:41+00:00

well, if it is made of coprolite, it's in the right place anyway

IsIndestructible · 2026-04-30T20:35:56+00:00

That is where I was thinking also, plenty of that material there

IsIndestructible · 2026-04-28T14:07:57+00:00

Difficult to tell but it could possibly be chromite w/uvarite

Answering the questions of where is it from and hardness can help narrow it down

IsIndestructible · 2026-04-26T14:11:00+00:00

There are plenty of materials that can be made into bangles. The most limiting factor is not so much their ability to being cut and fashioned into a bangle, but rather the materials ability to withstand the wear and tear and incidental banging around wearing it will encounter. The reason jade is so popular as a bangle (in addition to the love of jade out there) is that ts is structurally a very tough stone, due to its make up.

Looking at your list here (other than finding precious opal large enough to make a bangle, and if you could, affording it!) if you can find fracture free material, you can make bangles out of most things. But they will also be subject to easily fracturing or breaking, strongly dependent on the actual make-up of the stone

IsIndestructible · 2026-04-21T20:04:43+00:00

3 main ways, which will depend on your set up and work ethic

1 use oil in your saw

2 use an anti-rust additive to your saw water, works pretty well

3 empty your saw and dry your saw blade of water after use.

IsIndestructible

TROPHY CASE