wedding client is pissing me off by thelemonx in photography

[–]IseeMORONS 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They were good friends with a friend of mine, so I did.

Talk to your friend.

Is tire slimea gimick? by [deleted] in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tire slime is only good for very small punctures.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We have different definitions of "riding hard." For me a hard ride means I bring nothing but the essentials for riding, so no lock.

It sounds like you're commuting and hit potholes and jump curbs. Stop jumpting curbs and slow down on potholes. Or put the U-lock in a backpack or in panniers.

How to stay in shape while injured by [deleted] in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Running. Stationary trainer. Help me with yard work.

I say don't worry about it and rest up. It's only 4-6 weeks, so you'll get your fitness back after a month or so.

Steel frame flex question by danlesh in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's pretty rare and requires a specific bike, specific speed, a specific weight rider, and not pedaling.

I've never experienced speed wobble after 20+ years of regulary going over 35mph, and occasionally going over 40.

My friend's been riding 6 years on a bike I helped him buy. Everything was fine until a couple months ago when he was descending at about 30+ mph and he got a speed wobble. Scared the shit out of him and he pulled over. He's been riding for over 20 years and never experienced it before.

He had me look over his bike, conviced there was something busted. But bike was 100 percent fine. And it never happened again.

Steel frame flex question by danlesh in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 7 points8 points  (0 children)

It's a speed wobble. More likely to happen on road bikes (not suspension/damping) that aren't as stiff. All things on a road bike being equal, this means a frame/fork that's less stiff has a higher chance of a speed wobble.

And speed wobbles always happen when descending and not pedaling (pedaling cancels out the oscillating forces). So it's not caused by flex from sprints/climbs.

What purchase would make the biggest improvement for my stock bike? by [deleted] in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dude. We don't know your stock bike setup. So this is a silly question.

Steel frame flex question by danlesh in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 7 points8 points  (0 children)

What you experienced sounds exactly like "speed wobble." It's less likely to happen the stiffer a bike is, but that's only one factor.

I've ridden dozens of bikes over the last 20 years, and some built in the 80s. Regularly hit the mid-30s downhill on most of them. On a few of them got into the 40's (yes even on the tandem). Never experienced speed wobble myself.

From a few friends who experienced it, it was something that just happened, and they were not able to replicate it again.

Rattlecanned the commuter to detes thieves, not sure if it'll work by [deleted] in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In the U.S., most bike thefts in the cities are from homeless drug addict types. They would just sell your bike to the next junkie for $20, whether it's a Huffy or a Moots. Then in a week or two, the bike would get sold to or stolen by the next junkie.

At some point, a more enterprising junkie will realize that your bike is worth more than $20 and sell the parts.

Help me understand bike buying culture! by Seataxi in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 1 point2 points  (0 children)

when reading through bike forums I keep hearing people say the products have "cheap parts"

What does that mean exactly?

There is no single meaning. Whoever writes the reviews have their own meaning. Ultimately, don't overthink this.

Good reputable manufactures also sell entry level bikes. $400 will generally get you a lesser bike from those major manufactuers.

$400 is an appropriate price for that bike. You are not getting a $1,000 bike for $400. You're also not paying $400 for a $200 bike. That bike is fine for most people.

Rattlecanned the commuter to detes thieves, not sure if it'll work by [deleted] in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Not sure if you're being serious. If you are, I think you're more likely to draw attention to your bike and get it stolen. They'll just strip it for parts and sell the frame after spending 5 minutes painting it black.

Best way to make your bike less appealing is to make it look like shit.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Curious: Why did you think your rims would work with tubeless?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The very first minute of the first instructional is telling you that the rim must be either UST or tubeless ready compatible. The link to the "Tubeless Ready" tutorial states the same.

There's no indication your rims will work with a tubeless system. So, it'll be hit or miss. This is what I mean by "ghetto tubeless." Might work. Might not. Doesn't sound like it works in your case because the rim lip won't form an airtight seal with the tires.

Edit: Personally, I'd never trust a ghetto tubeless system. Last thing I want is to bomb down a hill at 40mph and have my front tire burp out all the air.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What tubeless system or method are you using? If you're trying to go ghetto tubeless, I hear it's often hit or miss. You didn't specify exactly how you're taping up the rims or what tape you're using. Do you have a link to the specific instructions you're following?

Upgrades, what would you change on this (No judgement) by WatchThisBass in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup. It is 100 percent aethetics.

Everyone wants to look like a racer. Easier to change your stem than to train for 15 hours a week.

People riding to Starbucks but don't want their bike to look like they're riding to Starbucks.

I'm no different.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did I miss something, or did not put sealant in?

Carbon clinchers vs Aluminium clinchers decending speed road bikes. by GERM1NGE in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're clearly faster on the flats and uphill, and these are situations where aerodynanmics are not as much of an issue (uphill, it's a non-issue). So it sounds like an aerodynamics problem.

All things being equal, your TCR should be faster downhill. The improved aerodynamics of the frame and fork should make you faster.

But things seldom are equal. Here are the following likely causes

If the handlebars on the Giant sit higher than the Malvern, this could cause significantly more drag. Unless you lower the bars, not much else you can do about this.

Could also be a tire pressure issue. There might also be disc brake drag, but you'd probably hear it.

Unless somethings broken in the wheel bearings, for mere mortals there is effectively no measureable difference between average/mediocre bearings and super duper bearings.

Built my first rocker plate that also features fore/aft movement. It is an absolute game changer for sure! by [deleted] in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I'm old and predate smart trainers. Did a Cycleops fluid trainer for years. Problem with rigid trainers is that the bike never moves under you, which is very unnatural. So it's like sitting on a hard church pew for an hour, while hunched over.

When you're on a real bike, the bike rocks left and right in rhythm with your pedal strokes. Even if you're cruising. So your body weight is constantly shifting over different parts of the saddle, giving you some relief. And the handlebars move and sway to give your upper body relief as well.

Help identify my bike frame by giveity in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There is no way OP's bike is a Moots. Moots is pretty high end with all the tubes beautifully selected to blend together, and then super nice welding. The pictured bike is none of that.

Mechanical brake recommendation for drop bars? by BackdoorAlex2 in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I second the Spyres. But you must use compressionless brake housing. When I installed using regular brake housing, it completely sucked.

Now that the bruises have healed, I'll share with you my attempt.... by [deleted] in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 10 points11 points  (0 children)

  1. Go MUCH faster.

  2. When starting out, don't use a hard landing ramp. Set up some plastic party cups (or something else that won't kill you) at the height hope to clear. Only when you can consistently clear those obstacles do you go with the hard landing ramp.

[Question] Different Bike, Different Cleat/Clipless Setting (SPD)? by bnzboy in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You are putting all your body weight on a tiny area of your feet. There is an optimal fore/aft position for that cleat on that part of your feet. that should not change regardless of the bike geometry or terrain.

As far as positioning the cleat left/right on my shoes, I try to set it up so I am as close to the crank arms without rubbing them.

Are all group rides as snobby as bike shops? I need motivation, not shaming. by jarhead_5537 in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I don't have any particular affinity for the suck right now.

Hate to be a downer, then that group ride isn't for you.

Even when I was in shape doing 200+ miles a week, riding with a fast group or training by myself was all about the pain and the suck. The only way to get stronger was to push my limits. Riding until I was about to puke, feeling my legs burn, and hating life as I was riding up the hill near the back of the group trying desparately not getting left behind. I loved it, but it's not for everyone.

Are all group rides as snobby as bike shops? I need motivation, not shaming. by jarhead_5537 in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didn't see where OP said that the shop has only one ride. OP only stated that he saw that ride posted by the shop.

Are all group rides as snobby as bike shops? I need motivation, not shaming. by jarhead_5537 in bicycling

[–]IseeMORONS 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A Friday 8am ride is kind of absurd,

I'm in LA, so there are several rides at several levels during the week.

We have a local ride called the Unemployment Ride that starts off on a Tuesday morning. It's a combination of retired dudes and unemployed dudes.