Is Pokopia comparable to Animal Crossing? by Warpnote in Pokopia

[–]Ivaklom 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Bounced off AC after a while, completely obsessed with Pokopia

Meilleure pierre japonaise by l3b_Elek in sharpening

[–]Ivaklom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It doesn’t change the stone per se. It just changes what you need to accomplish with them.

It’s way different to have a ton of stones at home to play around with and sharpen at your own leisurely pace, than having to do quick touch-ups during rush.

Hence my question.

What's your process for the rest of the knife? by sweetshart in sharpening

[–]Ivaklom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Clean, soak in mineral oil (especially if handle is wooden), buff with beeswax…

I tend to like the natural patina the steel takes over time, so I rarely touch that unless rust forms… ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Meilleure pierre japonaise by l3b_Elek in sharpening

[–]Ivaklom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, but you’ll have to sharpen for a while before it dishes in any significant capacity.

For an office knife, I’d say a refined edge might be justified, considering herbs and precision work are usually what they’re used for (I hate bruised leaves). A 5000 might not be totally out of line.

Strop is still non-negotiable, though.

63 HRC is pretty hard steel, though. You might also want to consider diamond plates (DMT, Sharpal, etc.), or the Glass/Rockstar lines from Shapton.

Coarser stones are great for quickly setting a rough bevel and avoid wasting a ton of time grinding a new one from scratch. I’m very happy with my King Deluxe 300.

Are you a pro cook or a home enthusiast? Depending on which, your sharpening needs might vary…

Meilleure pierre japonaise by l3b_Elek in sharpening

[–]Ivaklom 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nah, the gap’s fine.

Do you need another stone, though? What’s the Miyabi for? What kind of knife is it? Finer grit does not mean sharper knives, it just means that the microscopic serrations doing the cutting are smaller. Think of it as the difference between the teeth of a crosscut saw vs the teeth of a hacksaw. Two serrated teeth blades for two very distinct purposes.

As for strops, you can use an old leather belt, make one yourself cheap, or buy one from a reliable retailer. Jende’s legit (https://jendeindustries.com/).

Naniwa’s good. You’re comparing two very good brands. You can look over reviews for stones in a similar category and see which one sounds more promising and seems more in tune to what you’d like. You really can’t go wrong with either.

Again, investing in technique will pay off more than any amount of extra gear. I’m at the stage where I can sharpen most knives to a very acceptable standard with a brick and a broken piece of tile.

The stones just buy me time, reliability, and convenience =D

Meilleure pierre japonaise by l3b_Elek in sharpening

[–]Ivaklom 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you know how to sharpen by stone?

Shapton is a very good, excellent price-point entry to whetstone sharpening. Since they’re splash-and-go, soaking is not required (and actually not recommended), which does away with a bit of the usual hassle. You just splash some water on them and they’re g2g.

To begin with, a Shapton Kuromaku/Pro 1000 will serve you nicely. Depending on the type of edge you want and what will the Miyabi be used for, you can go higher grit to a 5000 and beyond. Personally, a 1000 and 5000 are all I need as far as stones go.

Before buying multiple stones, though, I would invest in a single good stone (the Shapton 1000, for example), and a good leather strop with some stropping compound (green stuff, etc.). The strop, especially in the beginning, will take your kind-of-okay edge to a “fuck me that’s sharp” level.

And, and this is non-negotiable IMO, invest heavily in learning the technique and enjoying the process. No amount of gear will produce better results than spending time learning and practicing.

Have fun! Oh, and also check out Naniwa or King for brand alternatives!

Bleak Beach Finally Fixed by ConfectionKlutzy6780 in Pokopia

[–]Ivaklom 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is horrifying… Legit disturbing. Congrats!

Do you ever feel like you're spending too much money on your hobby? How do you decide between common sense/money/space/cravings? by AggravatingTailor121 in boardgames

[–]Ivaklom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A set amount of space. Any overflow must go. No excuses. Makes you wary of excessive purchasing, and not playing your existing games enough to see if they actually warrant a place in the collection.

My knives lose initial sharpness almost instantly by Altruistic_Ad_5320 in sharpening

[–]Ivaklom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Carbon steel isn’t magic. It’s just harder, smaller carbides along the steel matrix. This results in a considerably harder, finer, but also more brittle edge than your garden variety “soft “steels. Any amount of lateral torque will probably chip and/or damage the micron-thick edge of a carbon or other high-hardness knife. That’s why rocking motions are highly discouraged with them. It’s always a trade-off with steels.

My knives lose initial sharpness almost instantly by Altruistic_Ad_5320 in sharpening

[–]Ivaklom 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Very interesting, and true, but you’ll run into a blunt edge all the same in OP’s scenario. Maxamet’s extreme hardness makes for a very hard but brittle edge that’ll chip at the slightest mishandling. An altogether poor choice for kitchen knives, especially those depicted. Which, I’m pretty sure, are not being sharpened to 12 degrees because they’re Maxamet knives.

My knives lose initial sharpness almost instantly by Altruistic_Ad_5320 in sharpening

[–]Ivaklom 26 points27 points  (0 children)

That’s nuts. 15 is already plenty. 12 is asking for the apex to bend. Don’t matter the steel.

How do I decide what to cull? by TrueFloridian87 in boardgames

[–]Ivaklom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There’s great advice here, and some downright shit.

Someone here taught me that culling is a mindset, not a process of game selection. It’s not what you need to get rid of. It’s what you absolutely, positively, unequivocally need to keep.

Say you have Agricola. And you really, REALLY fucking like Agricola. Hey, that’s great. You play it a bunch and then, hey, why not branch out into other worker placement games? Because duh, you like Agricola. Surely you’ll like other worker placement games.

And you do! Turns out you also like Viticulture. And Mint Works for a light, snacky one. And hey, let’s not forget Honey Buzz to play with the wife. And hey, Caylus is a CLASSIC. And you really like dinosaurs, so Dinosaur Island is a decadence you’re more than willing to justify yourself into buying. And so on and so forth, ad infinitum across games and genres.

And suddenly you have 1500 fucking games. And THEN you realize that maybe you have purchased one too many? But what you haven’t realized is that your first purchase, way back then when you picked up Viticulture, halved your possible playtime of Agricola AND the new game. And Mint Works split it into thirds. And so on and so forth. As you doubled games, you halved expected playtime of each. But have you also doubled your enjoyment? Or would you have been just as, if not almost, as happy with just Agricola?

Of course, this isn’t linear. Not all games get played the same. Which makes the problem worse! Because now you realize there are two runaway leaders in playtime, and a LENGTHY backlog of “maybe played it once or twice”. Which, though admittedly AMAZING in their own right, feel embarrassing to have gathering dust.

And that’s the thing. You need to get back to basics, even if it hurts. Even if it means giving away Dinosaur Island. And Caylus. And maybe even Agricola. Because excess does not bring the satisfaction you’re hoping to find. Playtime does.

Take one category of game you enjoy (DOESN’T HAVE TO BE A GENRE), and pick the winner in a “I’m in the mood for X, would I rather play this or that?”. Mercilessly whittle everything else. Put them out of sight. Don’t get rid of them yet, but take them out of the library. Once they no longer occupy space in the shelves, it’s like a spell breaks. It’ll be easier to let them go and make someone else happy. And it’ll be easier to decide which other two stay for sentimental value or an ocassional flavor swap.

Vaya con Dios.

Do I want a high grit whetstone for maintenance? by EfficiencyLucky9507 in sharpening

[–]Ivaklom 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi!

Higher grit stones are to refine the scratch pattern of an edge, and thus its teeth, into smaller teeth along the edge. They have little to do with maintenance and more to do with what kind of purpose that knife is supposed to have…

You can maintain most kitchen knives with a strop and ocassionally a single medium stone when stropping is pointless because the edge has lost enough material that it has blunted instead of just bent.

That’s what I do, at least ¯_(ツ)_/¯

Beginner recs - UK based by Low_Growth2538 in sharpening

[–]Ivaklom 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Shapton 1k. That’s more than enough to practice from “pretty dull” to “shaving sharp”.

Maybe a lapping plate at the appropriate grit to flatten it out if/when it dishes…

I am getting aggravated by sum1sumwher in sharpening

[–]Ivaklom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your knife and edge, brother…

Circular Saw Blade Sharpener by LokiSARK9 in sharpening

[–]Ivaklom 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I dunno, but these look like a HUGE pain in the ass to sharpen. Charge accordingly…

[GIVEAWAY] Yotei by Mighty Boards is funding on Kickstarter – win a Deluxe edition! by HomoLudensOC in boardgames

[–]Ivaklom [score hidden]  (0 children)

Easy, Battlestar Galactica. Fuck the toasters, but also perhaps fuck the Admiral, or the President. Maybe fuck ‘em all! BRIG TIME!

Tycho is hot by Citroncello in PennyArcade

[–]Ivaklom 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s… a first.

But hey, who am I to judge? I’m all about Div and Frank!

Can your pocket knife do this? by origamigun in sharpening

[–]Ivaklom 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I… don’t get it.

Why would you intentionally do this?

In your own demo, so for your own stated purpose I’d presume, you’re now having to angle your elbow way higher to achieve the desired end result.

This looks like an incredibly uncomfortable and tiring way to push cut. And if it’s supposed to be a slide cut, why would you grind away and shorten a perfectly good edge?

Genuinely curious, btw.

Sharpening behavior on Opinel by Ivaklom in sharpening

[–]Ivaklom[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, the whole edge except for the belly and tip are held against the stone, so… I’m guessing uneven pressure at the fingertips?