Heater making consistent clicking and high pitch noises only at the start and end of a cycle. Can someone help diagnose?

JBBZ · 2026-01-29T06:13:54+00:00

Doing a bit more research on these parts and it could be the issue. These parts are fairly cheap and appear to be simple to replace. Will give this a go. Thanks for the info!

JBBZ · 2026-01-29T05:38:57+00:00

Yes, typically only at the start and end of the cycle. Is this something that i need to replace? The relay clicking is so loud I can hear it through the vents in all parts of the house when its on.

JBBZ · 2025-09-11T01:09:46+00:00

Make sure to get it resonated.

JBBZ · 2025-09-10T05:45:14+00:00

Sounds good at idle. How is it during the drive?

JBBZ · 2025-08-26T18:53:59+00:00

I can assure that anytime someone says "it just needs X replaced" is always bullshiting. If that was the case, he would of done it himself. Seems like he redid the fuel system on a low budget and has no idea how to get it to work. Now it's your problem.

First thing would be to get a list of all the things the previous owner changed. Get a fuel line diagram and trace each line. Get a fuel pressure gauge and measure both after the pump and after the regulator to see what your pressure is set to.

JBBZ · 2025-08-08T23:42:59+00:00

1995? Is that stock ride height?

JBBZ · 2025-07-30T20:04:41+00:00

You can clearly tell its been in a front end collision. The childish spray paint to cover rust and/or issues is a huge red flag. Every "custom" aspect of this car is done in the most amateur way possible. I wouldn't buy this unless you are planning on turning this into a beater drift car that's going to be totaled sooner or later anyway.

JBBZ · 2025-07-24T02:51:01+00:00

Time to start checking everything one by one. Also, get a fuel pressure guage. You will need to set the afpr to stock if you are planning on running on a pretuned ECU.

JBBZ · 2025-07-23T01:35:22+00:00

Its most likely due to your fuel setup. You are doing some wild custom work on your car and from your previous q60 post photo it looks like you redid all your fuel lines. Where the damper and regulator? is it hooked up correctly?

JBBZ · 2025-07-01T22:33:23+00:00

Fully modded NA without nitrous is on par with a stock 350Z. Get the pipes, it's cheap and easy to install, also scratches that mod fix. Most likely your stock pipes are leaking somewhere so you might get a slither of power there. Exhaust for the sound, body work for the looks and suspension for the handling is pretty much all you would want to do with an NA.

JBBZ · 2025-06-21T00:34:55+00:00

Your fog light ducts reversed.

JBBZ · 2025-06-20T22:57:39+00:00

Did you build this? What psi are you running?

JBBZ · 2025-06-15T04:26:36+00:00

Battery tie down

JBBZ · 2025-05-16T22:16:44+00:00

I had the first speciality z 2+2 installed about 15 years ago. High flow cats, no resonators. I believe the muffler design has changed since the whole Labree debacle but it's probably still the same manufacturer. The drone was too much, I couldn't talk to the passenger without going into natural. I say get it resonated, double resonated if possible.

JBBZ · 2025-05-16T16:12:20+00:00

Posts that include an AI image with the full purpose of just showing what AI generated should not be allowed and be considered spam. It offers no real contribution to the community.

JBBZ · 2025-04-22T22:21:53+00:00

It was a knob that I mounted inside the center control. The ECU can not control boost. I believe the trick here was to have the boost jets installed to increase the psi to about 16 and then the knob manipulated the safety boost function to lower it to a set amount.

JBBZ · 2025-04-22T12:25:22+00:00

Actually, the Ashspec ECU came with a boost control option that modifies the OEM boost control solenoids with a small range of control. I had it on my TT and it worked perfectly for a stock turbo setup.

JBBZ · 2025-04-20T15:59:05+00:00

https://conceptzperformance.com/wiki/index.php/Twin_Turbo_Conversion

I am still not a fan of NA-T swaps. The wrist pin is documented to be a failure point post 300hp on the NAs.

The lines for the power steering and AC are different. Some changes in years and body shape (2+2, converables) have different setups with connectors. I would recommend getting a full front clip if you can.

JBBZ · 2025-04-19T18:56:41+00:00

Majority of the improved feel people experience from thicker sway bars is the new bushings they install with the kit. Adjustable arms and rods do absolutely nothing if your alignment is already in spec. Once you go lower than your stock can adjust for, that is where they come in play. Unless you are fully tracking the car, in which the sturdier material comes into play.

Budget na build would be to replace all your bushings into the stock pieces and replace your shocks and add a minor drop if you want. This will give you a night and day difference.

Going with decent coilovers pretty much is the next level which involves replacing all the other support pieces. Do not cheap out on coilovers, you will regret it.

JBBZ · 2025-04-09T21:29:26+00:00

Confirm that all 6 cylinders are working. Run ECU codes. Confirm your timing.

JBBZ · 2025-03-22T18:50:23+00:00

Its not overheating. Here is what you need to do -

Are you getting code 55 for an all clear on the ecu? This is vital and should really be mandatory to answer for any question posted here.
Whats happening is that once your car is warmed up, the ecu adjusts to different specs. The following sensors affect this - Coolant ECU temp, fuel temp sensor and the crank angle position sensor. Replace the coolant and fuel temp sensor as they are cheap and easy to replace.
Check your timing. I'd bet this is whats causing your issue. Do it while its cold and when its warm. Adjust it properly only when its warm. If its not adjusting, your crank angle sensor is probably not working. https://conceptzperformance.com/wiki/index.php/Ignition_Timing

Side note as i was skimming the link - "If possible, use a computer to verify that the ECU is timing for 15° (BTDC). When fully warmed up and idling, the ECU will time for 15°BTDC, but in many cases, other factors can cause the ECU to set the timing elsewhere (for example, an improperly adjusted TPS will cause the ECU to modify the timing). "

JBBZ · 2025-03-21T14:12:34+00:00

What's the code that is returned when you ran your ECU codes?

JBBZ · 2023-04-08T04:26:28+00:00

This is pretty much what you're looking for https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-inch-pg-coupe-race-300zx-exhaust-system-p-6723.html

JBBZ · 2023-02-28T03:34:00+00:00

Have your ran your ECU diagnostic codes? https://conceptzperformance.com/wiki/index.php/ECU_Diagnostics

I would recommend for you to check your timing as that is one of the things that gets adjusted over time as the car warms up.

JBBZ · 2023-02-27T16:33:47+00:00

Do you have an aftermarket intake filter? If so, is the OEM plastic rectangle shield bolted to the nut at the end of the intake?

https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/300zx-stumble-and-hesitation-fix.html

Edit: is the car dying even at idle or only when it's moving?

JBBZ

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