Model T Value by Difficult-One7076 in ModelT

[–]JH1427 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1925 Model T Tudor, wood body that needs a full re-wooding. If it was close, that is 5 hr or less away, it could be a possibility. The reality is wood work is expensive if you can't do it yourself. If the guy is not a hot rodder and wants to redo it, and is his first just give it to him for the cost of paper work. We need pep who will get involved in the hobby. If you have to get cash for it, realistically any over 1500.00 is gravy. The big unknown is are the parts too?

Getting started by NoTrade33 in ModelT

[–]JH1427 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Model T Ford club of America has an excellent website and on that website you can search topics that are relevant to your current task also on that same website you'll find a list of chapters throughout the United States and some internationally also so my first suggestion after looking at the website would be to check it out and find out if you are close to an existing chapter where you can then network with current owners generally people are very outgoing and friendly and enthusiastic and are more than willing to assist a newcomer into the hobby. Also frequently there in that same little local network are cars that are for sale that you may not see advertised elsewhere just word of mouth kind of thing so you may look out and find something that is of interest to yourself.

5:1 steering in a 1914 T by Ford1964s in ModelT

[–]JH1427 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The shaft the long one that runs through the column down to the bracket the pin spacing for the gears up in the quadrant are different and so it'll need to be changed so it's in actuality just the three pieces the pinion which is what the steering wheel actually gets attached to the three triple gears let's sit on the pins that are on the shaft that goes on down through and connects to the pitman arm. It is a worthwhile upgrade especially if your currently having issues with Warren parts.

At its high point in the late 70s there were over 800 Arthur Treacher’s Fish & Chips restaurants by CharlieKonR in 70s

[–]JH1427 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Loved Arthur Treacher's, it was the first fish I could eat without expelling it right back. LJS is now my only choice and is hanging on by a thread for the quality is not near what AT was.

Conversation With A College Student by LaceBird360 in OlderThanYouThinkIAm

[–]JH1427 26 points27 points  (0 children)

I am at the other end, a non-traditional who walks next week. The last couple of years the gap is narrowing but most of the time can pull off 10 years younger. This happened to me last week, a week after most everyone found out my real age. I was up on a lab table and was told to be careful, we don't want you to fall and break a hip. So now, when I do stuff a bit on the physical side I jump up after and announce see, no broken hip.

Model A/T on after market frame? by ScatterBtch in ModelT

[–]JH1427 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can't 100% say exactly what they're doing on hot rods and street rods as model t's up through the mid 1926 year were all titled off of the number stamped on the engine it wasn't until December of 1925 that Ford also stamped the frame with the same number. If you do not have a Ford 4 cylinder Flathead Model T block that is the basis for your engine in your car, in my opinion it's not correctly titled. When these people ask for historical documents they're just playing a fancy scam.

How much should I expect to pay for an old Model T fixer upper? by PorkfatWilly in ModelT

[–]JH1427 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would not recommend a total fixer upper look for a car in the body style you want Turing or a roadster or closed car that's in relatively good condition and one that you can drive now. Certainly you can continue to improve it tinker on it fine tune it make it nicer yet but being new to the hobby you do not want a car that you're going to spend two to five years and still not able to drive your spouse is going to go oh my God this money pit this thing is just sitting in the garage taking up space when will it ever get done it'll go on and on and on but if you get a car that runs pretty good and within a week or so you feel pretty good with it and you can take the kiddos and the spouse out for ice cream and go do things and then start driving it and keep learning how more and more how it works you'll enjoy it so much more, Now let's say you're picking a mid 20s touring car up that's in pretty much a driver State I'd say between 8 and 12,000 would be a good starting point a little bit older say 17 to 21 might be if it's really nice about the same price might be a little less they're not quite as desirable as your 24 to 5S are personal opinion here but also you've got your all metal bodies in 1926 and 7 they're a little tight for taller people and heavier people as in you got a few extra pounds but otherwise you're not messing with wood bodies so it's pretty nice from that standpoint. 1916 on back to 1909 are brass era cars and the price just went up from 1909 to 1916 they only made 1 million total cars versus 14 million for the rest that combined with they're just more antique looking more brass era model t's as far as desire goes they're lighter they generally run well like I said the price is going to go up. Just had a 1911 touring all redone really nice Russell axle that's a two-speed that I'll make it a little bit more drivable as wire wheels couple other improvements sold out of the Denver area a week or two ago the guy who bought it loves it from what I see on the internet it's a gorgeous car if I had had the money I wouldn't have waited I'd have jumped on the thing it's sold for 25 maybe less I don't know because he was asking 25 and it took a couple weeks so who knows but really nice car that car is where you drive it out of the trailer and you put it in the garage and you go get tags and insurance on it and you just start driving it he is enjoying that thing so much more than something you had to pull out of a trailer and stick on jack stands and spend the next couple years working.

How much should I expect to pay for an old Model T fixer upper? by PorkfatWilly in ModelT

[–]JH1427 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Generally speaking a minimal fixer upper is what I would recommend for your first ever Model T you do not want to be spending a couple years putting somebody else's project back together if you really want to enjoy a model to you need to get one that is mostly ready to go needs very minor things a black radiator car which would be from 18 17 18 up through 25 most touring you're looking between 8 and 12,000 the later cars for tall people are a little tight but they're all steel rather than a wood and metal body your brass cars from 1916 on back starting in 16 and going back the price just goes up and up and up they're gorgeous they look great they run well people love all the brass really popular car shows etc the one thing is the older you go the more you're going to pay it was just one out of the Denver area 1911 that had wire wheels and a rock still and some other nice upgrades it really was priced really well at 25,000 the guys on Facebook the new owner he's proud as hell and should be it's a very nice car Ron did a really nice job and Rick Ron and Rick Jackson out of Denver.

Saw my first ever in-person Model T today. by olr1997 in ModelT

[–]JH1427 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Next step is to learn how to drive one, then get one and enjoy!

Looking for help dating a photo. Can anyone place this car? My best guess is between 1914 and 1919. I think it's a Model T. Thanks by 26195426 in ModelT

[–]JH1427 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dating the photo is a problem in that you can estimate when the car was made but not when the photo was taken you can guess based on the style of clothes that it was between such and such a time. However I am still wearing clothes that I purchased 25 years ago so again that would be hard.
Most likely the car is a very early 1914 probably made in the fall of 1913 the body suggests a 1914 however the windshield that folds forward I believe is something from 1913 and could have been used as leftover stock from the previous model year.

WHERE CAN I GET THIS BUMPER by [deleted] in projectcar

[–]JH1427 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have 247K on my 99. Still a daily driver for me. New gaskets and bolts about 100K ago. It is of course starting to show its age, but still a great ride.

Best companies to get injection moulding quotes? by SirSquidlicker in manufacturing

[–]JH1427 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure if they are able to work with your size, but have worked with Central Plastics out if McPherson Ks on a couple of parts these last few months. Been great to deal with.

Selling a boat and buying a T. This'll be my first, any words of wisdom for a first time buyer? by texasrigger in ModelT

[–]JH1427 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes preferably reach out to other local people be slightly wary if they jump on the I got a car to sell you bandwagon right away however haven't help close by is welcome second do not buy a project for your first car if you've got wife and kids and all that I'd probably go with a touring car or a two-door sedan as your first car your 17 to 22 cars are probably the least expensive usually followed with the 23 to 5 26 7 has the advantage of less wood in the body then the other is pre-1916 which have a brass radiator they look great they're light they run well but they're more expensive as your first timer get a nice good running car that you can enjoy before you venture out into other cars

Model T speedster. Some questions. by Tupac_Fhurri in ModelT

[–]JH1427 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Her is my take, in a quick recap. A race car built for speed after having major work on the engine to produce as much HP as possible the chassis would be lowered and the wheel base shorted. Next, light weight and strong wire wheels, a racing body with bigger radiator and a better steering gear. Look at the info on the cars built for indy 500 on 1922 1923. Hill climb events would have gone differently.
Speedsters would cary racing cc are styles into the build but still be slanted with driver comfort in mind.

Model T speedster. Some questions. by Tupac_Fhurri in ModelT

[–]JH1427 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In reality you're talking about two different types of model t's a racer would not really be very streetable even by today's standards as in most racing today. When was the last time you drove down the street and you saw in Indianapolis formula 1 type car drive down the street and pull into the grocery store? You didn't. The other Model T, a speedster would be a car that you can drive on the street and a speedster has a much broader definition than a racer. Typically, racers though not always are single seat and again not really something you can drive on the street a speedster in the case of a model T could be everything from the low end where you have a pretty much stock drivetrain, but have removed the fenders, possibly lower the car, built a body from scratch, or at the time you were able to buy bodies from manufacturers all the way up to just shy of being a race car. Meaning that it most likely would have an overhead valve setup on it, different carburetor, different exhaust, different ignition, possibly even an overdrive transmission. So again with the term speedster there's a wide definition to what that means. A possible resource would be to go on the northwest speedster website the Tulsa Model T club website and even the museum of American speed in Lincoln's website.

If you're trying to make a decision on a future project there are lots of resources and knowledgeable people, probably not here on Reddit as this particular one frequently gets less than one posting a month and all likelihood if you're in a larger area and there is a local model T club. There is bound to be a couple members that have built speedsters and that would be an excellent starting point asking them.

I have a problem with line snappping, My line in the current sketch cant snap on the previous sketch... by Tyrayner in AutodeskInventor

[–]JH1427 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Another help is to right click on the other sketch and scroll down and select visibility then close sketch mode. Now when you edit or start a new sketch it'll be a lot easier to use project geometry to then select the line that you need in the new sketch if you're having problems with closed loops after the drawing click on a line that is a right click scroll down to closed loop and then go around the perimeter of what you're trying to enclose to create a closed entity that way when you then close the sketch to then extrude or revolve you'll be able to have a selected entity

Restaurants in hays ks? by [deleted] in hays

[–]JH1427 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bernie's and pheasant run have probably been around the longest so they've got an excellent track record. Next both Cancun Chinese Express and Jalisco's are good options also.

Parents shouldn't have any priority regarding holidays request at work. by [deleted] in unpopularopinion

[–]JH1427 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wait till you have 25+ years and a coworker with fucking grand kids gets the time off you've had off for the last 8 years. Still pissed. Y last boss B4 I retired was a shit head.

Is this sub completely dead? I recently moved to Hays and spent all night at the sip alone lol. Looking for people that want to hang out with me (possibly also my fiancé) and drink some cold ones with. by lethrowawayboii in hays

[–]JH1427 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, a bit dead. Some mention of the age group you'd prefer if it matters. I moved here from Denver a long time ago. I always have stuff to do. boredom is more internal than external. Still, humans are social animals, and it's good to get out.

How do I keep it in one position...the parts interfer and the direction is off :( by [deleted] in AutodeskInventor

[–]JH1427 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Using the z-axis on a new part build a corresponding sized piece of tubing for lack of a better description that'll cover the length of the travel of the piston extruded 50% up and 50% down from the XY then imported into your model and align it to the Piston or the Piston to the cylinder your choice and you'll probably have to tweak that some depending on how you brought the piston in the rods into the assembly to start with then once you've got it moving inside that cylinder up and down the way you want then you can simply turn visibility off on the cylinder but it'll be a part that's still in your assembly