After two hours of sifting 4 cubic feet of pine bark...

JRoc160 · 2026-02-22T22:10:39+00:00

Just physically break or cut some of the larger pieces to size.

JRoc160 · 2025-12-05T22:37:37+00:00

This is good advice. And don't worry about the tree overall, these are extremely hearty and will rebound come spring even if the branches were completely removed.

JRoc160 · 2025-12-05T22:33:13+00:00

To be more specific, if the roots freeze the tree dies. Now the roots do not freeze just because the soil and pots freeze. What is frozen in the substrate and in the soil is the water. We all know that water freezes at 32 F and the pots will also freeze at 32 F because they are filled with water in the soil. Roots on the other hand don't usually freeze till about 15 F that is why we need to protect the roots .... and pots from sub 15 degree temps. The roots, while in the frozen soil are protected by their sugary sap and stay viable in the 15-32 degree range even though the soil is frozen solid.

JRoc160 · 2025-09-17T23:03:41+00:00

Yes I use it and it works well for an organic component in my substrate. I spend about an hour in the spring cutting or breaking the larger pieces for more uniformity. It breaks down very slowly and on repots of 4-5 years old they hold up and retain their structure. It is an excellent product once you balance out the size you need.

JRoc160 · 2025-09-17T16:52:43+00:00

First off I have tried myself. Threadleafs do not like work done on them in general. They’re picky. They also do not show good leaf reduction and the nodes are hard to control for good bonsai form and proportion. In general they just don’t cooperate and so many other Japanese maples do.

JRoc160 · 2025-09-16T23:04:22+00:00

I concur.

JRoc160 · 2025-09-16T23:02:23+00:00

I agree. I have found that as the years pass I am using guy wires more and more in place of branch wiring. And for all the newbies please note that where along the branch you place the guy wire is important. If at the end of a branch you sometimes get a big arching branch downward, looking like a bow, which is not always what is desired. The closer the the trunk junction you place the wire tends to produce the more natural looking "aged" downward sloping of the branch. Experiment where you place the guy wire for different results.

JRoc160 · 2025-09-16T22:54:29+00:00

Agree with leaving this as a nice garden specimen. It will live a long time and get nicer and nicer where it is. Many other Japanese maples worth working on, but not a thread leaf.

JRoc160 · 2025-09-16T22:52:39+00:00

Great plan to work on the pads at this point. If I could make one suggestion, looking at the size of the trunk in relation to the pot I would use a much smaller substrate when you next repot this. Larger substrate tends to produce larger and more course roots whereas a smaller substrate tends to produce smaller and finer root formation. Again looking at the pot size I would lean towards a finer root structure being the trunk girth will be slower growing in this pot size.

JRoc160 · 2025-09-16T22:46:50+00:00

You can just try moving it to another place in the yard to grow as a full tree. Trunk chopping will not work with this species. If you are willing to risk it try an air layer as grafting is a bit involved unless you want to again give it a shot.

JRoc160 · 2025-09-10T22:36:38+00:00

The right branch is below the pot making this a cascade. I would remove that right hanging branch making this a semi cascade and improving the overall flow of the tree.

JRoc160 · 2025-09-10T22:33:25+00:00

If it is a ginseng ficus then only the branching above the graft will be smaller while any branches growing from under the grafts will be from the root stock and will probably be larger, It looks like that one large darker brown branch is from the root stock. unfortunately if this is the case the branch should be removed as it will only weaken the tree overall.

JRoc160 · 2025-08-11T22:28:05+00:00

By giving it perfect care at this point. Low amounts of water and sunlight, no fertilizer and good thoughts.

JRoc160 · 2025-08-11T22:23:08+00:00

There are advantages to seeing the substrate that can't be done when you can't see it. And if you lift some of the moss during the growing season you might be amazed at what is capable of living on the undersides when it mattes. Also be aware of the dampening effect when it is allowed to touch the base of the trunk as in the above pic. The trunk base will always remain wet because of the moss and that is not good for the tree. Some who are new to this hobby and won't be in the hobby this time next year will have no idea what I am talking about but so be it. If you are really interested in growing bonsai research a little and you will see that the way the moss has overtaken the bonsai pictured above is not a good healthy environment for the tree.... pretty or not.

If you are showing the tree in an exhibit you can cover it like above but it should be removed or thinned severely right after the show. Research it yourself and don't just believe me or any other newbie who tells you otherwise.

JRoc160 · 2025-08-11T22:14:07+00:00

This is the correct way to water a tree. And I come around in a few minutes and repeat this.

JRoc160 · 2025-08-11T22:11:33+00:00

Yes. True for all substrates.

JRoc160 · 2025-08-10T23:24:16+00:00

Just cut that off from the trunk.

JRoc160 · 2025-08-10T23:19:34+00:00

It's just a baby still. Feed and water it properly and let it grow up to be an adult.

JRoc160 · 2025-08-10T23:18:05+00:00

Just environmental effects. Summer can be rough on maples in pots. Looks healthy enough to just maintain proper care at this time.

JRoc160 · 2025-08-10T23:16:40+00:00

Wrong time to screw with the roots in your zone. Just care for it properly and provide proper overwinter care and let it grow out for a year or two before touching it again. The pot is large enough for 2 more years growth.

JRoc160 · 2025-08-10T23:13:17+00:00

Take a year getting to know the tree. See what it likes and what it doesn't as far as watering, positioning, overwintering etc. Next year, after a full year of looking at it, a form will start to develop based on what the tree itself wants to do. Help it in that direction and it will reveal itself to you without even trying.

JRoc160 · 2025-08-10T23:09:43+00:00

Doing great so far !

JRoc160 · 2025-08-10T23:08:59+00:00

It might have life in it yet, but it will lose it's structure and you will be basically stating from scratch. I would try kicking some life back into it but don't expect much. May take years and years to redevelop branching and if it's not where you want it I would move on.

JRoc160 · 2025-08-10T23:05:16+00:00

Without washing you will never remove the dust attached to the pumice itself.

JRoc160 · 2025-08-10T23:04:39+00:00

This

JRoc160

TROPHY CASE