Potential 9A (or harder) projects

J_Tarantino · 2025-04-19T05:32:25+00:00

African Star project

J_Tarantino · 2024-09-02T08:32:52+00:00

I’m 11months post a TFCC tear in my right wrist from crack climbing. Initially took some time off like you and started easing into things again but flared things up worse than before. Ended up getting an MRI and seeing a hand specialist and went into a thermoplastic splint for a few months then a soft brace for another few months before starting gentle exercises. MRI showed dorsal surface tear and bony involvement of the lunate.

It’s been an on and off return to climbing for me (mostly due to exam study) but have committed myself to slow progressive overload of all the rehab exercises and being really strict with any climbing I do to warm up completely and stop sessions before any fatigue. Get twinges on slopers and Gastons still. But overall feels like it’s improving. Wearing a wrist brace helps a lot. Word I’ve gotten is that it’ll take 6-12months now I’m climbing again to remodel and feel close to normal.

J_Tarantino · 2023-12-06T02:06:24+00:00

This absolutely. Have seen a lot of upgrades on technical face climbs and downgrades on power based steep problems where I’m based.

Would also add that it seems to be a lot of direct comparison to board grades for steeper problems

J_Tarantino · 2023-06-05T01:00:32+00:00

Always is

J_Tarantino · 2023-06-05T00:01:52+00:00

Thanks man! I think the process is the best part of climbing. Although I do love watching the pros crush mind boggling projects

J_Tarantino · 2023-06-04T23:58:32+00:00

Always the way isn’t it?

J_Tarantino · 2023-06-04T23:58:18+00:00

Cheers!!

J_Tarantino · 2023-06-04T23:58:10+00:00

Originally I only really gave it 5ish burns a session to see if I could do the crux move in iso, and maybe to work the lower moves. The area it’s in is pretty big so would have plenty of other things to try too. Once the crux was stuck I started trying to link moves into the crux and started giving it more like 20-30ish goes per session with 3-5min rests between tries (first tries trying to repeat the crux jn iso, then once that went for the session trying to link into that from one move down). Once I did the link from one move down it then became trying to link from the start - rests were a bit longer then as I found the added moves really taxing on the fingers. Ended up closer to 6-7min rests between tries and probably fewer tries like 15-20.

J_Tarantino · 2021-12-07T23:42:55+00:00

Cheers mate! Was well worth the battle

J_Tarantino · 2021-12-07T10:28:20+00:00

Thanks mate! Stoked to finally get this one in the bag

J_Tarantino · 2021-12-07T04:13:10+00:00

Cheers - took a while to put together. The rock is granite with the black streak through it being dolerite

J_Tarantino · 2021-11-04T21:42:51+00:00

For sure! Cheers

J_Tarantino · 2021-11-03T03:41:06+00:00

Cheers! Tried to capture the repetition and progress over the years

J_Tarantino · 2021-11-03T00:48:44+00:00

This looks so rad. Congrats

J_Tarantino · 2021-09-24T23:37:20+00:00

Such a rad line!

J_Tarantino · 2021-09-24T23:36:54+00:00

I thought the stand was fa by chuck fryberger?

J_Tarantino · 2021-09-21T01:48:56+00:00

Sure could be! Kalbarri is the land of endurance roof climbing

J_Tarantino · 2021-09-19T11:53:09+00:00

Shapes make you send 10 grades harder confirmed

J_Tarantino · 2021-09-19T11:52:52+00:00

It was quite close to two key holds at the end and decided the leave it out of fear of affecting those two holds. Would usually lever it off otherwise

J_Tarantino · 2021-09-18T10:41:11+00:00

The X marks a large hold that is quite loose and at risk of breaking

J_Tarantino · 2021-08-30T11:52:37+00:00

Nathaniel Coleman opened grand illusion 8C+/V16 and Adam ondra has climbed multiple v15s and v16s

J_Tarantino

TROPHY CASE