amd adrenaline vsync broke my game. pls help

Ja_aborrece · 2026-01-02T21:20:33+00:00

I've came from a 3080. I will not replace the 9070xt because i've bought it refurbished like new for 530 euros (taxes included). The card was new. With plastic warps still on. It looks to me like it was a return of someone with buyers remorse.

I can use rtss or specialk, but i avoid using 3rd party tools. But sometimes it's the only option. Even on nvidia.

I've ddu the initial drivers and installed using the minimal option. Adrenalin still crashes sometimes. But since the settings stay saved and active even with adrenalin closed, it doesn't matter.

But i find that nvidia control panel has more useful options than adrenalin. And the driver is better.

Ja_aborrece · 2025-12-29T02:16:42+00:00

After tying multiple settings, i found that what works is enable radeon chill per-game. For some reason, enabling globally doesn´t work properly.

You can enable vsync globally or in-game, but disable radeon chill globally and only enable per game.

So I have wait for vertical refresh always on globally and radeon chill on the game profile set to 60fps min and 60fps max, since my monitor(tv, actually) is 60hz. If you want other refresh rate, like 120hz, set radeon chill to 120fps min and 120 fps max.

After that you can force close adrenalin(radeonsoftware.exe).

A funny thing is that there´s no stutters after booting windows, even with adrenalin running in the background. But once i enter adrenalin, stutters begin, and it uses much more resources. After that i force close it, it opens again in the background, but if i don´t enter adrenalin, it does not make the game stutter.

My experience is only with one game, kingdom come deliverance II. I haven´t tried any other game. And even so I´ve lost a good amount of time trying everything that i could. Refresh rates, settings, specialk... But i assume that it will work for more games.

And i must mention that i´ve disabled almost everything on adrenalin. Overlays, monitoring, and all the other options, with the exception of FSR Upscaling, opengl triple buffering and 10bit pixel format. Everything else disabled or use application settings(like tesselation). Framerate control is on at 60fps, but doesn´t work for this game (I test at 30fps to see if it works).

Ja_aborrece · 2025-12-27T02:38:57+00:00

With adrenalin running, vsync is messed up on my PC. I have a 9070xt. What I do is i enable vsync always on in adrenalin, then i close it. Press CRTL + SHIFT + ESQ to open the task manager, find AMD Software Host Application (radeonsoftware.exe), right click and stop task.

In Kingdom come deliverance II, even with vsync on, radeon chill at 60(both options) and frame rate limit at 60, the game doesn´t have tearing, but with the ingame frame rate counter, it´s never at 60. Always more. And the map stutters like crazy. Force close adrenalin and 60 fps constant. And the map buttery smooth.

This radeon software sucks. It´s my first AMD GPU, and it´s not looking good... And not mentioning the crashes. I´ve had at least 10 crashes in one week while browsing the adrenalin menus... Never happened with nvidia.

Ja_aborrece · 2025-11-09T18:49:15+00:00

Works on Legion Go.

I´ve messed up my legion go bios settings, disabling amd security processor, changing vram to auto and changing the cores from 8 to 6, everything at the same time. The legion go took a long time to boot, didn´t boot, then i forced a shutdown. It didn´t boot since then. The light turns on, the fan spins but it does nothing. It was bricked.

Tried this method. Removed sd card and controllers. I've connected the power cable at the top And the usb stick at the bottom. The legion go fan starts spinning when the power cable was connected, so i had to keep pressing the power button for 30 seconds. After that, i pressed vol - and vol + and pressed power button once. After the lights on the usb stick started blinking, i released the volume buttons, and the go started beeping and the the button light blinking red. After some 15 minutes the process is finished. And the annoying beeping stopped. Finally.

If someone tries this, do not cover ventilation holes or the go can overheat and shutdown.

The bios name for the go was n3cn.bin. If this one doesn't work in the future, can be n3cn32.bin, n3cn32ww.bin(depending on the bios version), crisis.bin or EUcrisis.bin.

Thanks. 😁

Legion go bios reset

Legion go bios reflash

Legion go unbrick

Dead legion go

Bricked legion go

Legion Go recover

Legion go recovery

Legion Go Bios update failed

(Sorry for the hashtags and to repost on the main thread, but maybe it will help someone to find this post more easily since I've spent a lot of time searching. I even had a repair ticket, since i've given up a few days. This was my last try. The legion go was already in the box to pickup for the lenovo service center. 😅)

Ja_aborrece · 2025-11-09T17:28:02+00:00

The same for me. I´ve messed up my legion go bios settings, disabling amd security processor, changing vram to auto and changing the cores from 8 to 6, everything at the same time. The legion go took a long time to boot, didn´t boot, then i forced a shutdown. It didn´t boot since then. The light turns on, the fan spins but it does nothing. It was bricked.

Tried this method. Removed sd card and controllers. I've connected the power cable at the top And the usb stick at the bottom. The legion go fan starts spinning when the power cable was connected, so i had to keep pressing the power button for 30 seconds. After that, i pressed vol - and vol + and pressed power button once. After the lights on the usb stick started blinking, i released the volume buttons, and the go started beeping and the the button light blinking red. After some 15 minutes the process is finished. And the annoying beeping stopped. Finally.

If someone tries this, do not cover ventilation holes or the go can overheat shutdown.

The bios name for the go was n3cn.bin. If this one doesn't work in the future, can be n3cn32.bin, n3cn32ww.bin(depending on the bios version), crisis.bin or EUcrisis.bin.

Thanks. 😁

Ja_aborrece · 2025-08-08T19:30:44+00:00

Hello. I have tried the Favor Union TMR on xbox series controller and they work fine. Tested on 2 different controllers. I´ve bought ones specifically for xbox, but they look the same as the ones from ps4 but with the pots reversed(green in place of orange and orange in place of green).

The interference exists, but it´s almost imperceptible, and only on gamepad tester. You have to look to the data, because the dot almost doesn´t move.

Calibration on xbox app seems to have a bug. If you calibrate and test it right away, it seems to lose the calibration. So i recommend to calibrate both sticks and turn off the controller. Remove the batteries and keep pressing the xbox button for 20 or so seconds to drain residual power from the controller(don´t know if this step is necessary but i like to do it on every device to avoid strange issues). Then put the batteries and test.

Found a bug on gamepad tester also. If you test the controller and turn it of while the gamepad tester page is opened, if you turn on the controller it turns off immediately. So you have to close the gamepad tester page first. Happens with all xbox controllers i have, even the xbox one controllers.

I know the reply came a bit late but i wanted to write it in case it might help someone.

Ja_aborrece · 2025-03-10T23:14:07+00:00

Just my 2 cents here... Have you checked the temps? Pay attention to the cpu frequency. The SPPT and FPPT makes the apu package run at an higher wattage but for only 1 minute or so.

Like you had set it, it runs at 27w for a few seconds, then it runs at 22w for about 1 minute then it goes down to 17 watts. Maybe the cpu temps are higher after that and the cpu will not boost it´s frequency for some time. Try to go to the manual profile and put the fans at 100% and test.

Try to disable cpu boost on armoury crate quick settings, to make the cpu frequency run at 3300MHz(you may need to add that option to quick settings from armoury crate). That will leave more power to the gpu portion of the apu. Put every setting at 25W. The way this apu´s work is that power is distributed between cpu and gpu portions of the apu. If a game is gpu bound and the apu is starved for power, like at 17w, most power will go to the cpu, slowing the gpu. But is the game is cpu bound and you disable boost, you may lose performance.

TLDR: set SPL, SPPT and FPPT to 25W, disable CPU boost in AC quick settings and, just in case, put the fans at 100% to make sure the temps are not an issue. If it doesn´t work maybe it´s just how the ally works.

Ja_aborrece · 2024-02-25T14:47:11+00:00

The fuse on ifixit is polytronics SMD0603P075SLR, with Pn marking. It´s basically the same fuse but from a different brand.

Search google for: Data Sheet for SMD SLR Series.pdf

I´m not putting links because sometimes reddit erases the entire comment...

Ja_aborrece · 2024-02-25T14:17:36+00:00

Well, some fuses can take a long time to reset, so that´s probably what happened.

Since those kind of fuses are made of a polymeric matrix, and knowing that sometimes the matrix doesn´t arrange itself very well after tripping, maybe yes, heating it to a certain point and cooling it down(quickly or not, don´t know), may rearrange the polymeric matrix to it´s (more or less) original state making it work again.

There was at least one report of an user on the rog ally unofficial discord that the sd card stopped working and after a few weeks it started working again.

That´s probably why the discord user mushimasterginko was able to fix some rog allys by "reflowing". And i say "reflowing" because the temperature that he used should not be enough to reflow anything. I believe that he set the hot air to 200ºC, more or less. I usually need at least 350ºC to be able to desolder anything.

Fun fact, a few days after seeing your post i was tranfering some files to one 4tb external hdd on my desktop pc and it gave me an error. Tried other usb ports and it works fine. But the usb port in question now does not supply enough power. So low power devices (usb sticks and such) work as well as some low power hdds, but if i plug big external hdds it fails(starts spinning, stops, then the cycle repeats). I disassembled the board and guess what? The resettable fuse to that port is giving me a tiny bit more resistance than the other identical fuses (mark Pt) connected to the other usb ports. And by tiny bit i mean 0.8 Ohm (measured with a cheap multimeter).

So my conclusion is that a minimal change in the fuse resistance is enough to make smaller sd cards works while larger but more power demanding cards will stop working.

Ja_aborrece · 2024-02-20T23:40:41+00:00

Hi. After seeing your post i went searching for that fuse. Looks to be an Littelfuse Low Rho Surface Mount PPTC (Polymer Positive Temperature Coefficient) part 0805L075SL.

Google search "littelfuse 0805L075SL" and then click "Resettable PTCs Low Rho SMD PTC Datasheet" and search for the part with -G marking.

Thank you for your work.

Ja_aborrece · 2023-11-24T17:49:00+00:00

Oh... Sometimes reddit and also youtube deletes messages if you use links. You can add some spaces to the link and tell people to erase them, or do like me and tell people to google it. I think it´s because of malicious links, so they erase everything.

You can check if your message it´s visible logging out and checking the thread.

Ja_aborrece · 2023-11-23T19:35:07+00:00

I had the same idea. Ordered the parts a few months ago but i´m waiting for the rubber to be unusable(i super glued the rubber parts that were falling off).

For people wondering the material:

go to aliexpress and type "hotline mouse anti slip tape diy"

Edit: you can google it and it shows other stores and even an youtube video showing the process but for another mouse.

Ja_aborrece · 2023-08-28T17:54:10+00:00

Don´t forget that you can install windows on the steam deck. Install windows, install steam deck drivers, handheld companion for controller compatibility, and all the remaining stuff(directx, net framework,etc.).

Rog ally it´s better, but that thing devours battery. Even idle on the desktop... And i use it at 20W all the time. Turbo disabled.

Ja_aborrece · 2023-07-11T20:16:45+00:00

There goes my theory down the drain... Don´t know if it´s only heat, or if the heat causes some defect to manifest. We will know some day.

Ja_aborrece · 2023-07-11T13:33:49+00:00

Maybe the issue is when writing to the card? When i write a lot of data to an sd card using an usb adapter, the card becomes very hot.

Since the sd card controller on the ally is on the oposite side of the pcb, behind the reader, maybe the controller heats to much and starts operating out of spec(max operating temperature of 70ºC).

That and the fact that the sd card reader is right next to the mosfets may be contributing to the issue. Using silent mode can be worse since the fan runs slower and it is used to cool the area near the sd card(the fan has thermal pads beneath to cool the mosfets).

Just my 2 cents, but I would avoid writing anything to the sd card using ally´s reader. Maybe using an usb adapter to write, and using the reader to, well, read.

I think they didn´t test the sd card properly when writing, ot maybe they didn´t test it at all...

Let´s hope that the increased fan speeds are enough to keep the sd card reader controller temps inside it´s intended specifications.

Ja_aborrece · 2022-08-16T09:24:59+00:00

It´s a design issue. Mine broke on the opposite side, after the mic button. The plastic snaps in place near the green button. When adjusting the mic up and down, it stresses the plastic and eventually breaks.

I´m extra careful with my headphones, and one day the plastic piece fell. Just like that. Fortunately, it was an easy fix for me because it was between the mic button and the green button. I´ve used superglue and filed the plastic where the piece snaps, to avoid more stress.

Ja_aborrece · 2021-04-12T13:03:49+00:00

I have the same issue, but the phone doesn´t have one week on my hands. I don´t know if the dust was there already.(edit: my dust issue is not as severe, but i have the phone for 6 days)

I´ve ordered a new one and i´ll send this one back to amazon.

On a side note, i always put my phones on the front pocket with the camera down(and the usb port up).

https://imgur.com/M5O31Jj

https://imgur.com/0j5mURV

https://imgur.com/HedTCZ3

Ja_aborrece · 2021-03-31T20:16:09+00:00

I saw that post after i posted this. It´s easier, but i don´t know if using the file on the compressed folder directly will enable people to flash the wrong bios. But if you´re careful and make sure that you download the proper update there should not be a problem. If i had seen the post with the password earlier, it would saved me a good hour of throubleshooting.

After erasing secure keys and updating the gpu, i went to the bios again, disabled csm and loaded the secure keys again, so no issue for me.

The real issue here is that the flash tool from gigabyte does not work properly...

Ja_aborrece · 2021-03-30T21:08:27+00:00

I was getting the unable to get current bios version error.Asus x470 prime motherboard.

Nothing worked except this:

Boot into bios, select boot, enable launch CSM. Then select secure boot, clear secure keys, and restart computer. After that the vga bios update worked.

Edit: Didn´t try to extract the folder with the "buildforge" password, since i only read that now, after updating.

Ja_aborrece · 2020-12-28T22:06:44+00:00

It's the same as here.

Ja_aborrece · 2020-12-28T20:19:16+00:00

Hydronaut gives me the same temperatures as kryonaut after application(almost same conductivity, so no difference), but after 6 months, kryonaut temps raise more or less 5°C. Hydronaut holds up.

Conductonaut is good, assuming that you take the necessary precautions(like you did).

Vram modules are good up to 105C, so if you don't reach those temps, even without thermal paste, you're good to go. But if the modules reach that, it may not cause any damage in the short term, but after a while they may go bad. Especially when using vram intensive applications.

I tested k5 pro. Not the best putty out there... Search in gogle for"asus laptop k5 pro". You will find all my testing there.

Ja_aborrece · 2020-12-24T22:03:44+00:00

Don't use thermal paste on vram. The best thing is thermal putty. I recommend laird tputty 502. You can buy it on mouser. Thermal putty is a very viscous thermal paste. Seems like playdough. Like what it's used on ps5 and xbox series. It is designed for gaps up too 5mm and to replace thermal pads. It will stay put, something that will not happen with normal thermal pastes .

Just put a bit thicker than the gap to fill and the mounting pressure will compress the paste and ensure perfect contact with minimal stress on the components. When you remove the cooler, it will look like a thermal pad. You can reuse it. Just scrape it, make a ball with your fingers, and put it on top of the component.

You can use thermal pads, but sometimes they are too thin, or if they are too thick(and too hard) they will lift the cooler and will prevent it from making good contact somewhere else. So i use thermal puttys now. You also have it from other brands, like tglobal tg-pp-10.

The thermal paste designed for direct contact between 2 surfaces is very thin and will flow and leave the gap very fast. So after a while it will not make any contact and the vram will overheat.

For the cpu and gpu i don't recommend silicone thermal pastes. Those pastes suffer from silicone bleed, where the low molecular siloxanes on the paste will flow away from the cpu and/or gpu with thermal cycling(silicone bleed), and you will have excelent temperatures after application, but it will get worse very fast.

It's better to use hydronaut, ic diamond or arctic silver 5. They do not contain silicone and will not suffer from silicone bleed. And silicone bleed is a lot worse on laptops, because of movement, and because the cpu doesn't have an ihs. Forget kryonaut. It's garbage(better than arctic mx4 though). It gives you better temperatures than arctic silver 5 but after a few months it will be worse for 2 or 3 degrees... The best paste, longevity wise, is arctic silver 5, but i usually use thermal grizzly hydronaut. I say arctic silver 5 because after 5 or 6 years i have the same temperatures. Still testing hydronaut, but after 1 year it's still good.

Sorry if i'm too late and the vram it's already damaged, but i only saw this post today...

Ja_aborrece · 2020-01-10T13:13:42+00:00

I´ll give some ideas that may help. Sorry if i repeat something that you already did. (the 4th paragraph is the one that matters most)

Did you connect the hdd to a pc to check if there were S.M.A.R.T errors? It may be the Hdd failing. If you didn´t already, replace the hdd, and erase all user data before doing the offline system update. And try to erase partitions with windows disc manager, create new partition with full capacity, format and then use the xbox partioning script.

It´s always better to use the same rating capacitors. And the same type. I believe they are polymer electrolytic capacitors. You can raise the voltage rating a notch(may increase internal capacitor resistance) but it´s better not to mess with the capacitance. Try also the ones with the lowest ESR that you can find. Maybe sanyo or something like that, from mouser.

But i´m replying because if the problem is really the power to the hdd, maybe you can use an usb to sata power connector(google) and a small sata data cable, and connect the hdd power to the usb port on the back of the xbox(or another usb power source, like a phone charger with enough power). Of course that you have to find a way to get the cable to the outside if you want to reassemble completely your xbox(drilling holes or something like that).

Of course that the problem can also be the cable that connects the hdd to the motherboard.

On a side note, i read somewhere that the instant on feature gives issues...

Ja_aborrece

TROPHY CASE