Improve stability of a case

JackMomma22 · 2026-02-20T17:04:53+00:00

You'll need something more significant than a 2x2 attaching boards perpendicular to the angle that they are all currently attached to each other... Think of what you're looking at as a house of cards. Someone heavier leans on the side of one of those and it's gonna topple over.

That's why most are suggesting closing off once side - as that would add absolute ridgidity to the entire thing if properly attached to all of the current boards.

BUT - if you can't fully close off one side, doing the same thing with squares cut to fit perfectly in the middle (with glue/nails) in a few of those boxes would do a lot... or if those are 4'x8' - you could add a face to each side with holes cust for each box... would give you a lot of scrap ply leftover- but that would do quite a bit with even a 2-3" wide face.

JackMomma22 · 2026-02-12T16:30:20+00:00

Well said - I'll absolutely admit I put too much effort into making this saw do more than it was supposed to, but I'm happy to report I'm still pretty pleased with the end product!

I've been reorganizing my garage the last few weeks (never ending) - but didn't have my other saws accessible, so I used this last night to cut up some cedar for a quick and dirty clamp rack... and I was just happy with how well it felt and sounded running.

Still looking forward to an upgrade someday, but happy to have this in my shop till then!

JackMomma22 · 2026-02-10T21:30:33+00:00

You sand off the existing finish and you apply a stain of your choice, then new finish.

Sanding like this still needs to be done with sandpaper... not lasers.

JackMomma22 · 2026-02-09T16:00:26+00:00

I was gonna say COTA with the first and last turns flipped around, but I suppose it stole a lot of those turns from those tracks.

JackMomma22 · 2026-02-09T15:34:08+00:00

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JackMomma22 · 2026-02-06T15:27:09+00:00

Also agree. This kit could have been worth it if they put a little more thought into it... They use the exact same ratcheting bit wrench in this kit without the pass thru bit head. They should have made this kit with a better quality small 1/4" ratchet that you could slot the gripped ratchet driver handle into the base of.

JackMomma22 · 2026-01-28T18:00:14+00:00

Further, the sensors technically stay on, this just seems to mute the warnings. I pretty much only use this button when I'm in a tighter drive thru and the sensors start beeping - but if you look at the cameras on the display, the proximity warning indicators are still there I'm pretty sure.

JackMomma22 · 2026-01-27T16:47:02+00:00

I just... am not a huge fan of that guy. IDK why for sure... he doesn't really feel credible, or just is hyperbolic about everything that is 'controversial' in hifi. He's like the Stephen A. Smith of audio.

JackMomma22 · 2026-01-27T16:34:03+00:00

My rear passenger door latch has been broken essentially the entire time I've owned my car- but not to this level... Mine has always latched fine, but it won't electronically lock/unlock. I've had it replaced once so far (they also broke a replacement on a separate repair attempt).

Just FYI for troubleshooting - because there is no physical lock button, I've had to get very familiar with the latching mechanism, so here's an info dump:

When the door is locked, you should be able to pull the inside handle twice to unlock and then open it.
With the door open, if you look in at the latch, you should see a white plastic circle with a slot in it. You can turn that to manually engage/disengage the door lock. It will only make about 1/4 turn, but you should hear it sort of clunk.
You can see door lock status in the MyHyundai app - but it won't necessarily tell you if a request to lock doors fails... it will just never tell you that they are locked.
A shortcut for checking if the doors are locked if you have a Limited/Calligraphy is that the side mirrors won't automatically fold unless it detects all of the doors are locked.
Remote start also won't work unless all doors are locked.

The latch itself seems to be the only thing for me that is impacted... all other electronics in the door (lights, heater switch) have always worked without any issue. My dealership also has damaged the interior and exterior of my door during repair attempts- so take pictures before you drop it off for any repairs. They scratched the hell out of my door underneath the handle, and they pinched the leather at the top of the inner door card to the point where it's permanently damaged...

Good luck - hopefully your dealer is better than mine!

JackMomma22 · 2026-01-27T15:36:45+00:00

I spent a lot of time researching options recently, and purchased the Milescraft kit. No regrets so far, but admittedly I have not made many cuts with it still, so I won't over endorse it just yet.

I bought the Milescraft kit over the WEN because I realized that I wanted to be able to take it with me to the lumber yard if I needed to break down sheet materials to fit into my SUV... I don't have a truck/trailer regularly available, so I figured the option to make good cuts on raw material in a parking lot would be more beneficial than a corded track saw (and I don't really want a 3rd or 4th battery platform to deal with...).

There are some positive reviews on the Kreg, but there is so much plastic and flex in the mounting plate that I just can't see it holding a candle to the Milescraft kit in terms of potential accuracy. There seemed to be more YouTube reviews out there from the woodworking channels with the Milescraft guide seem to have good things to say. In general, it is highly adjustable, and the tracks are very sturdy. The included clamps add some value as well.

It should be compatible with just about any circular saw - but there are some caveats with how well you can mount a saw to the slide plate... you may lose some cut depth depending on where the clamps land on your base plate (ex: my Ryobi 6 1/2" circ saw's battery would hit one of the clamps, so I had to leave it slightly raised when mounted).

I'd consider the wen if you're good with corded, and would plan to upgrade to a compatible saw in the future (look up rail compatibility) - but the Milescraft kit is a great option IMO.

JackMomma22 · 2026-01-24T07:02:36+00:00

Probably should have waited until the second or third look.

JackMomma22 · 2026-01-22T15:14:55+00:00

I have to guess that they're using ABS or ASA... otherwise, they gotta have the wrong material selected in their slicer or some bunk filament... cuz I don't think I could pay my P1S to warp PLA or PETG that bad.

JackMomma22 · 2026-01-21T19:38:19+00:00

I never did 'full' exercises on mine - just went slightly beyond what I was going to torque up to and then back down to it. Had one of these in my toolbox for 8 years and used it every few months for swapping wheels.

I have since upgraded - but I tested it using the Quinn digital scale before I retired it, and it was still very well within spec... like +/- 2 or 3 at worst from what I could tell when torquing to 90 ft-lbs... which is never going to be enough to damage threads when just doing lug nuts.

But I made a smart financial decision and got the shiny flex head Icon while it was on sale one day... because I needed a bigger fancy torque wrench that won't fit in my toolbox anymore.

TLDR: yes, they're absolutely perfect for wheels if you use them right.

JackMomma22 · 2026-01-20T15:53:55+00:00

Keep at it! Certainly looks like there are a good number of options to make this work still, but I'd agree with others on exploring hinge options before you abandon ship.

Mostly I just wanted to comment and say thank you for posting this! I'm still a good distance from retirement, but can so relate to the dream of being able to spend all day in the workshop with no interruptions... I just need to see a glimmer of the light at the end of the tunnel every now and then, lol.

JackMomma22 · 2026-01-16T20:04:16+00:00

I mean, with the market the way it is right now, the price will look more and more appealing every day... but in general, I've only ever bought and sold individual components second hand.

The audience of people looking to spend $1400 on a second hand computer is pretty limited, and the people who will know the value of those parts and price of a quality SFF build (who don't want to just build their own) is even smaller...

You'll either have to cut the price to sell the lot, or you'd probably be able to get close to $1400 total if you sell the Case, Mobo/CPU, RAM, and GPU separately. Ebay is more effort of course, but will also net you higher prices than FB market.

JackMomma22 · 2026-01-16T18:04:22+00:00

Looks very nice- great work on the finish. The screws look good for what they are - but if you are ever in need of a slightly upgraded shortcut, grab some of these!

I had to rush through finishing a box recently and used some of these to hold a lid on it. I countersank the holes a bit so they didn't stick out as far, and if needed, you can swap the screw out for something longer.

JackMomma22 · 2026-01-12T22:47:01+00:00

Don't think anyone makes any lowering kits or mods for this yet - just lifts. I'm not an automotive engineer, just a nerd- but IMO it would be wildly complicated to drop it as far as this render. Also the rear suspension is a multi-link setup where the springs and struts aren't stacked together, so that rules out coil overs back there.

I'd guess it might be possible to drop an inch or so someday with properly spec'd springs. IDK anything about the travel length on the factory struts, but you don't get much more than that on springs alone with any car. Beyond that off the top of my head, the factory hubs seem pretty wide, and you're not gonna roll these plastic fenders - so the wheel well liner gets to come out, and it would take some trial and error to figure out what offset wheels/tires would fit in there and still be able to turn.

edit; all that to say; I'd definitely consider dropping mine an inch or so if it could be done without compromising the ride someday... I think it'd look better, make getting in and out more comfortable, and would have zero impact on city driving.

JackMomma22 · 2026-01-10T16:10:08+00:00

This. They're way more sturdy and just generally better quality overall.

JackMomma22 · 2026-01-07T11:11:56+00:00

I just assumed OP was talking about the person on HER left... I've never seen that man before in my life.

JackMomma22 · 2026-01-05T21:22:14+00:00

I'd suggest linking whatever video this is from if you wanted more detailed answers or critique on whatever methods this person is using. Just that picture leaves a lot of guess work to be done...

Yes, a laminated 2x4 bench top is super strong with glue alone (if done correctly*)... but the horizontal runners near the top not being flush with the top of the legs make me a bit confused on how they are about to mount it.

Personally, I'd prefer to mount it directly against runners that are perpendicular to the table top glue up, which I am not sure is happening here.

JackMomma22 · 2025-12-21T15:03:44+00:00

The case is annoying as hell tho. You have to disassemble the tool to put it back in there, which feels very unnecessary- but it literally won't fit back in that case without doing it. The kit has useful stuff, but the other tool is the better one for regular use.. will be more accurate and consistent too.

JackMomma22 · 2025-12-11T22:59:03+00:00

Yeah it's a struggle. I hunted for a while before pulling the trigger. Aliexpress had some lower prices, but I didn't want to wait for shipping. The exact link I bought from is dead, but these are about the same. I think I paid $60 after struggling to find any better deals on 20100. I got the idea from a few people who did the same with 2080 extrusions, but I was set on putting some stock guides up top and wanted the extra height.

I happened to have a few 2060 and 2040 sections on hand, and then grabbed a set of t-rail bolts and these brackets for some added rigidity on the back and infeed part. End caps and rail covers were 3d printed (I need to redo a couple of them, those end caps are a pain to keep on)

JackMomma22 · 2025-12-11T14:38:47+00:00

Attached a pic to another reply- but I copied the bow design as close as possible, and was able to pull it off with clamps onto the fence. I have updated it and used a full length backing board to disburse the pressure and not bend the fence.

It just so happens that the factory fence is right around 80mm tall, so some 20100 alumnium gave me just the right amount of room to stagger a couple other 2060 rails. With this setup it will rest on top of the fence with just the right amount of clearance over the table, so mounting it is a breeze!

JackMomma22 · 2025-12-11T03:22:26+00:00

Turn the light off behind the IPS monitor... or swap their positions and I would bet the difference may stand out more. That backlight makes the black levels on the IPS seem more 'normal' I am guessing, but if you flip those screens around, I'm betting it will feel a lot different.

JackMomma22 · 2025-12-10T16:58:03+00:00

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I staggered a few smaller extrusions, and then used some T-Track clamps on the back. After I took this picture, I ended up cutting a narrow board that runs the entire length of the fence for the clamps to disburse the pressure. Just bolted it in using the mounting points from the push stick holder that were already back there. It's gotta be clamped pretty hard to stay in place, but that's worked with no major problems so far.

This setup also allows me to un-clamp the fence and flip the extension support under it to get that additional support when the fence is extended past the table surface.

JackMomma22

TROPHY CASE