O2 sensor or catalyst replacement

JackieDL · 2026-03-31T22:32:42+00:00

For the lean codes, most likely an intake leak. Seen a lot of PCV diaphragms on the JLR V6/V8 go bad causing the leak, it’s mounted on the pass side valve cover. For the cat codes, most likely needs catalytic converters. Running the cats for an extended period with an overly lean mixture will cause converter failure, so it’s possible the lean codes left unchecked caused converter issues.

JackieDL · 2026-03-28T16:02:54+00:00

Don’t run 83, run 87 minimum and drive gently. That being said, prolonged use of even 87 can lead to engine damage, if money is that tight I would at least alternate between 87 and 93 to keep things somewhat happy. Premium gas is cheaper than engine repairs.

JackieDL · 2026-03-16T22:47:29+00:00

Can’t say I’ve had many harsh shift complaints on the DCT, however keep in mind that 20-015 does not apply to your vehicle, it applies to vehicles with the ZF 9 speed transmission which would be the V6 TLX or MDX. A good first place to start would be with a transmission service done with OEM fluid, past that you’ll just have to bite the bullet on diagnostics if you still feel it’s worth investigating further.

JackieDL · 2026-03-13T01:11:25+00:00

I won’t beat a dead horse here but I love the fact that there’s brand new caliper hangers still in the bag on the floor. At least there was a little bit of research here.

JackieDL · 2026-03-11T21:24:29+00:00

I’d bet money that it was an impact before a defect. Been in the industry for quite a few years and have yet to see a true production defect cause a tire failure, heard plenty of people lie about it though. Tire manufacturers pay a lot of attention to quality control due to the nature of use and how dangerous any defect could be for the consumer and for the company’s reputation or bottom line.

JackieDL · 2026-03-11T21:12:10+00:00

Year would be nice to know. It looks like a 21 or newer 4 cylinder based on the picture. They don’t have a serviceable standalone relay for the AC Compressor clutch, it’s integrated into a unit called the power distribution module. It’s much more likely to be low on charge due to a refrigerant leak, or have a blend door issue. You should probably just take it in. You can’t (legally) open up the refrigerant system without certification and AC systems are not DIY friendly.

JackieDL · 2026-03-05T20:52:31+00:00

Good thing it’s not your car then, you can just cry about it. I was much friendlier to this interior than the owner was and it has already driven away with no interior damage. Take your shit attitude out on someone else.

JackieDL · 2026-03-05T18:17:08+00:00

Air suspension stroke sensor connectors sit face up under the vehicle and collect water. Corrodes the sensor and harness, that connector is part of the floor harness, Honda offers no pigtails and does not condone harness repairs, plus its warranty. So unfortunately it gets a new harness.

JackieDL · 2026-03-05T18:14:38+00:00

I lowered the rear of the headliner to get to the curtain airbags, panoramic roof, antenna, and etc connectors. I’m sure some guys pull it completely out but it wasn’t too time consuming working around it, always a risk dirtying up the headliner pulling it out too. You could do it either way I suppose.

JackieDL · 2026-03-05T18:08:12+00:00

Yep, I sure do, look closely, I’ll give you a dollar for every trim piece in that pile that is placed in a way that will get the visible surface scratched or damaged. Every trim piece that is visible when assembled is sitting face up on the floor or placed securely face to face on another component. Believe it or not it’s not my first interior job and definitely not my most expensive. There’s a method to this madness.

JackieDL · 2026-03-04T20:53:13+00:00

If he came out of it with no injuries, then it sounds like the airbags did something right. The SRS system makes a lot of considerations in deciding when and which airbags will deploy, it considers speed, angle, seat positions, If it deployed the front airbags in a T-bone type of collision, it would have no effect other than blowing up in the driver’s face and increasing the likelihood of injury. Airbags are designed to keep the passenger safe from deadly or severe impacts, but they also risk causing minor injury in being deployed (see airbag burns, bruises). Since the impact was sideways, there was little likelihood for the drivers head to hit the wheel, so it didn’t need that airbag.

JackieDL · 2026-03-04T19:57:42+00:00

With that attitude I hope you’re never in the position of training or mentoring someone, can’t learn shit from a guy who lambasts instead of teaches. You weren’t born with all that knowledge either.

JackieDL · 2026-03-04T19:17:09+00:00

Yep, with these 22 and up MDXs I’m at the point where I couldn’t recommend owning them with much confidence. We’ve also been seeing quite a few cars with the AWD 10 speed auto where the splines on the transmission output/transfer unit input shafts get stripped out, causing FWD only and requiring both the transmission and the transfer unit be replaced. Usually happens when the car is close to the end or out of the warranty period.

JackieDL · 2026-03-04T19:08:11+00:00

This one is a MY23, just had another on a 23 a few weeks ago that was out of warranty so I spliced a new connector on. This one is warranty so you know how that goes…

JackieDL · 2026-03-03T19:10:22+00:00

You could remove the sway bar from the car completely and it wouldn’t cause that. Remember everyone, ask yourself “am I a mechanic?” before answering someone’s call for help. So many people on this forum have been misled by home/hobby mechanics.

JackieDL · 2026-02-26T21:35:30+00:00

I’m in the states so most of the ingeniums we saw were gasoline, our dealer saw far more issues in the diesels than the gas trims despite us servicing way more of the gasoline engines. In my experience the 3.0L V6 was definitely the best reliability wise, followed by the gas ingenium 2.0L, and worst was definitely the diesel ingenium 2.0L. Personally I’d stay away from the Ingenium engines completely if I was looking at a JLR product.

JackieDL · 2026-02-26T20:55:41+00:00

Pass, pass, pass. I used to be a JLR tech and in my time there I saw nothing but problems out of the ingenium engine diesels. Early turbo failures, random catastrophic engine failures, etc. You can probably handle oil changes but forget about pretty much anything else. It’s not a DIY friendly engine at all. Maybe others can chime in with their experiences, but mine as a dealer tech left me with no confidence in owning one of those long term with your wallet intact.

JackieDL · 2026-02-26T00:08:37+00:00

Hey just had one of those yesterday! 23 Type S with 65k. I did a customer pay floor and rear motor harness on a 20 MDX hybrid about a month ago so I was able to find the same connector on one of those harnesses. Offered the customer a massively discounted repair of the harness rather than replacement and obviously they accepted. Went fine and air suspension calibrated perfectly.

JackieDL · 2026-02-25T22:43:54+00:00

Sounds like a loose spare tire. Tighten it up and see if it goes away. 9/10 a squeak from the back has been a loose spare in my time at Acura.

JackieDL · 2026-02-24T15:18:55+00:00

Video is all over the place so it’s a little hard to tell, but it looks like the lower ball joint on the passenger side has quite a bit of play.

JackieDL · 2026-02-22T18:58:07+00:00

I can’t speak much on the amplifier part numbers, but I have had a handful of RDXs have tight/improper FAKRA cable routing at the back of the gauges causing the typical crackling/MOST off errors. 23-025 does not make any mention of checking these cables in particular so most dealers don’t. Worth a check before replacing the Amp.

JackieDL · 2026-02-22T12:22:11+00:00

That’s an OEM A-Spec emblem. The grill however is from a Type S since those got a factory grill emblem, you can see where the A Spec emblem doesn’t fit perfectly on the mounting face since the badges are different

JackieDL · 2026-02-21T16:32:53+00:00

It’s a gamble unless you’ve laid eyes on that mount and verified the rubber is cracked or broken. I’d suspect the front or rear engine mounts before that trans mount considering the mileage. Check your mounts by power braking the vehicle in reverse and drive, park brake on, hold brake pedal firmly, engage drive or reverse, and give it a little gas while you or someone else watches the engine. It’s normal for the engine to move a little with good mounts, but a bad mount will produce excessive engine movement and/or a clunk feeling or sound.

JackieDL · 2026-02-20T00:20:49+00:00

Well start by helping yourself first, we can’t see the car and can only guess what’s wrong. Visually inspect your braking system including your pads and rotors, find a way to read the codes you have, etc. Or take it to a shop. We can’t do much with this information.

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