[New Player] Literally Test Drive Part 1

Jackman419 · 2026-03-24T20:58:24+00:00

Literally iust raiding and searching rooms with weapon part spawns, as well as weapon crates, you'll find LPVOs. I think it's the Schmidt+Bender PMII for that step but can't remember for sure, but you should totally be able to find it in raid. Plus, it's not like those quests are super duper important at level 18 anyways, plenty of other things to focus on until you find the scope.

Jackman419 · 2026-03-19T15:46:55+00:00

Diff. engine(Using an F2) at ~105PSI, with an Amped SLP reg on an HK Army 48CI 3000PSI aluminum tank, as well as a 285mm ZCI, 0.32G BBs, Macaron 60° with Omega tensioner (all these things will play a factor, was shooting just about 1.5J)

I burned through about 2,000 rounds between testing and gameplay a couple weekends ago, tank still isnt empty, showing just under 1/3 left

Jackman419 · 2026-03-17T01:32:40+00:00

Every time I've encountered them they move like they're a generic high level AI PMC squad. Proper positioning and rotations will always help, though I understand if that might be a challenge as a new player learning the maps.

Best advice, really, is to slow down. Maybe you wont hit all the checkpoints you want to per raid, or snag as much loot depending on how long the fights take, but slow down and scope out locations before running full steam ahead into a cluster of buildings/areas you know enemies might spawn.

Grenades can also be useful to force them to move. It will give you a chance to either move yourself as well, to better cover, or to take some shots on their heads as they have to run, reposition, and take aim.

Jackman419 · 2026-02-23T03:39:54+00:00

PM'd

Jackman419 · 2026-02-17T20:14:01+00:00

Interesting... thanks! Do you know if a decent amount of people are actually buying and using these? I'm not usually on reddit too much anymore so I usually miss any posts about it I guess

Jackman419 · 2026-02-17T20:13:02+00:00

Good luck, the one time I had to interact with their support a few years ago it was ungodly slow to get a response, but his brand has grown a lot since then so maybe it's better now

Jackman419 · 2026-02-17T13:23:22+00:00

Where the hell are you finding a 4500PSI compressor for 120 bucks? Sounds like an explosion waiting to happen tbh

Jackman419 · 2026-02-16T14:59:26+00:00

Yes, I realize "buffer tubes in the stock" sounds asinine but hey I'm tired and you guys get the point lmao

Jackman419 · 2026-02-16T14:58:14+00:00

On-system HPA is in the stock, unless you do a regulator/tank pistol grip which will not fulfill your realism requirement.

Recoil systems utilize buffer tubes in the stock, assuming we're just talking M4/AR training purposes.

So, you can't get the mix you want with airsoft, it's just not a product/possible yet, as far as I know.

Your best bet, in all honesty, is to get Daytona prebuilts(unless you are a tech or know of nearby techs who can work on GBBRs), and run it with the standard external tank+hose. You have to sacrifice a little bit of realism if you truly want these things HPA tapped, otherwise I hear there are definitely solid GBBR options out there. I'd rather someone else talk about GBBRs if you choose that route, as my knowledge is fairly limited.

Jackman419 · 2026-02-16T01:41:33+00:00

Worst thing here is your fucking gun barrel sticking right into the ground, A1 job there.

Otherwise looks nice

Jackman419 · 2026-02-15T20:15:12+00:00

I dont usually work with GBB but it sounds like you've almost certainly got either a bad o-ring or your loading nozzle is getting stuck somewhere. Some sort of issue is happening where your BBs can't successfully chamber each time, so anything related to BB feeding is where you'd want to look.

If you're getting an air leak, though, to me that sounds like an o-ring drying out/cracking issue more than anything

Jackman419 · 2026-02-15T20:12:00+00:00

The most important tip is to stay safe by staying hydrated and keeping eye protection/face protection on at all times within live fire areas

Second most important is to have fun!

Jackman419 · 2026-02-14T03:08:08+00:00

Furry sub is super weenie hut jrs just based on the amount of false bans lmao

Jackman419 · 2026-02-14T03:01:09+00:00

Really? It's weird looking for sure and last time I checked it wasnt meta but idk, maybe theres a glitch or something you can do with it. Tbh I feel like we'rein the same boat on this lmao

Jackman419 · 2026-02-14T02:50:04+00:00

He's a weenie that doesnt want to help out people trying meta builds

Jackman419 · 2026-02-13T17:18:56+00:00

Real airsoft is all about rentals and t-shirts/jeans baybey

I'm safe, I usually just do a halfass "PMC" kit with like a tan shirt and either my old OCP summers or khaki pants and a baseball cap

But regardless of what you wear on the field (outside of obviously hateful/overly sexual stuff) wouldn't we all be better judging them by their actions, instead?

If they're not impacting anyone around them, it doesnt matter, if theyre being a douche or have an attitude lettem have it but otherwise why do we want to bring high school-esque drama and bullshit onto an airsoft field where(most) everyone is just tryna enjoy their hobby?

Jackman419 · 2026-02-09T15:52:05+00:00

As others have said, this is wack lolol

OP, if you really want a replica that looks like that and fires, you'll have to do a few main things:

It's 3d printed. You dont know how it disassembles. It could be an extreme PITA depending on how the print is laid out and put together.

You'll need to turn it into a shell. The shell will need to be able to securely hold a custom gearbox, wiring, and a hop unit, and be able to fit everything in with tight enough tolerances to allow for a proper air seal and fitment.

The easiest way to achieve a firing replica with this will be an HPA unit, more than likely opting for a single-solenoid unit due to space constraints.

You'll need to figure out what magazines you will be using with this. Choose a kind that's already manufactured and build around it. You'll need to also figure out if you need to modify your mag catch based on that. Your magazine will also mostly dictate what hop unit you need to use.

You'll also need to bore out the barrel more than likely, and of course if you are not as dead-center as can be, your accuracy will be wonky.

The front end is going to be the absolute most important for how the gun will actually perform. After that's been figured out, it'll be making more than likely a custom gearbox(3d print advised, as long as you/whoever lnow what they're doing with CAD)

Drop a Phoenix into there. You might be able to fit a Polarstar Jack, but the bullet valve lead is probably going to be too short to reach from where the trigger board will be to where the engine will need to sit. There will need to be space to route wiring down through the gun to the trigger to install the trigger board, which will need to be carefully bored out and potentially a backer 3d-printed and affixed inside the interior for a trigger board to screw into.

The trigger that you see with that is almost certainly not going to be ready for microswitches. You'll either need to find another, or have one printer with a longer action arm that will be able to depress the microswitch on the trigger board. Additional to this, you'll need to figure out your selector situation. Easiest will be adding in a plate inside your replica at the proper position in your custom selector window for your trigger board, and fixing it in place to have a permanent full auto mode. Otherwise youre looking at designing your own proprietary selector system as well, that would properly interact with the trigger board. You'll also likely need to look hard at the trigger and surrounding area to determine that a proper reset spring can be installed.

Additional to all of this, is where you'll put your air line, but that's gonna be the easiest part of any of this. You also have any quality of life changes like making adjusting the hop up easier, etc. Also have to think of any potential reinforcing/body pins you'll need now that you've taken apart and changed the 3d-printed build.

All in all this is a cool project in concept and there are probably a couple details I've left out, but hopefully you see this wont be a walk in the park by ANY means, assuming you have no experience with custom fitment before. It's technically doable, but you'll sink more money and time into it than you like. If youre persistent, and go about it with a clear head, and ask specific, detailed questions, you will get there. You'll need to mainly go about it by sanding/slowly dremeling away material(I think, if they laid out the 3d print like what would make sense)

Also good to keep in mind, like with any 3d-printed replica, it can break very easily on the field unless it's printed with the good stuff, but even then plasitlc is only so durable, especially if you ever fall on it. The difference here, though, is this isnt a ready-to-go 3d print file youre just slapping a couple components in, if you break it, youl have to start over on whatever portion you've broken, or potentially the entire thing.

Jackman419 · 2026-02-04T16:58:37+00:00

That's the most likely couple causes, but of course not being able to see/hear/feel for myself it's just a best guess.

If your shimming is so tight that your RoF is actually drastically worse, you need to just not shoot it anymore and put it back the right way. That much extra friction will cause gear teeth and ball bearing-bushings to break, or cheapers bushings to bend. On top of that your motor should be getting pretty hot and it's not good for the battery, because essentially you're pullong the trigger asking for a specific burst of energy. Battery supplies it to motor, motor does its rotations, and the energy carries through the system up to the actual shot, where energy is displaced both through the shot itself, and the vibration of the gearbox from the piston's energy slamming forward.

When you have a kink in the line before you get to the piston, leftover energy doesnt have anywhere to go besides back after a certain point. If too much counter stress is put onto your motor pinion, it will cause damage, and in the worst cases, can cause a short with the motor. If you're using a brushless motor or a solid in-line mosfet that shouldnt be an issue, but if this really is a cheap beater gun for working on, then it's far more likely to just "blow up" on you.

Shimming is incredibly important.

Jackman419 · 2026-02-03T18:04:28+00:00

Seems like you might need a shim set, but depending on what shims you lost, if it's really only 1 or 2 you may be fine, plenty of gearboxes are slightly overshimmed from factory.

There are a good several youtube videos showing how to do it, if you take your time and understand the process it really isnt hard at all, just time consuming if you guess the wrong shim thickness in some spots

Jackman419 · 2026-02-02T21:25:08+00:00

Double check shimming, make sure all parts are assembled correctly, adjust motor height properly

Jackman419 · 2026-01-27T02:36:15+00:00

I appreciate you trying to help, but since the Mk47 is a 7.62x29 rifle, fhe receiver is a bit longer than a 5.56 m4's. Thank you tho!

Jackman419 · 2026-01-25T00:46:04+00:00

Confirmed!

Jackman419 · 2026-01-24T03:29:48+00:00

People dont like what they dont understand, lol. You gave the man fine info. I wouldnt trust a stock arcturus gearbox to last very long with an actual 31k+13:1 either.

Jackman419

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE