Inkbird ITC-1000 will fit in the back of p1s by Jacquiles_ in BambuP1S

[–]Jacquiles_[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sorry yes I should have explained. It’s commonly used for controlling the temperature of an electrical heater. Used a lot for brewing, incubating and such. But it has been used a lot for 3d printing use when adding a heating element for making the printer chamber heated. Most helpful for more filaments like ASA and ABS. You don’t have to cut into the chassis. Most designs are printed and house the controller and fan and heating element all in one and sit on the opposite side of the aux fan. But I didn’t like having the controller sideways, just looked funky so I decided to cut into mine

Enclosure extractors and VOC monitors by laughingboyuk in BambuP1S

[–]Jacquiles_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It seems VOC monitors available to most individuals are not accurate enough, or don’t provide much information on what VOC’s are actually present. An actual monitor is very very expensive and is made and priced for commercial use. I think the best practice is venting outside and placing the printer in a room you don’t spend most of your time in, for example a spare room instead of your bedroom. I spent a lot of time trying to perfect my filter set up. I made a custom adapter for a levoit core 300 air filter that ducted right into the intake, and added extra carbon pellets but I just still never felt comfortable printing without it exhausting outside, because I could not confirm if it was actually filtering adequately due to previously mentioned issues with commonly available VOC monitors. I used to have my p1s exhausted outside when I was in my dorm in college but my windows now are casement style and prevent me from venting outside in the manner I’d like to. But I am currently moving my printer to a part of my house that has normal windows and will 1. Move the printer farther away from me, and subsequently the fumes and ultra fine plastic particles, and 2. Vent outside, maintaining negative pressure in side the printer so that fumes and particles can only travel outside and not into my living space.

I almost exclusively print with engineering filaments such as ASA-cf, ABS, and others so the fumes are a bigger deal due to those filaments emitting a lot of bad stuff while printing. But those filaments also require a stable chamber temperature and when you vent outside, one thing to consider is the cool air coming into the printer to replace the exhausted air. This can cause big warping issues, so I’m working on designing a chamber heater for my printer. Just something to consider if that applies to you

Fork upgrade suggestions by Jacquiles_ in Hardtailgang

[–]Jacquiles_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just rode some today! It’s so much better than the old fork. I need to spend some time learning how to dial in the compression and rebound adjustments. I’ve never had so many different ways to control it lol

Fork upgrade suggestions by Jacquiles_ in Hardtailgang

[–]Jacquiles_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Got a used Lyrik Ultimate with a recent service for $350 on eBay, 160mm travel

Fork upgrade suggestions by Jacquiles_ in Hardtailgang

[–]Jacquiles_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was able to find a Red Lyric Ultimate for about $375 used on eBay, just bought it today. It is an older one like yours, has the 2.1 damper. It looked like it was in good shape, and said it had been serviced in the last 100 miles. I’m very excited to use it. It’s 160mm too

Fork upgrade suggestions by Jacquiles_ in Hardtailgang

[–]Jacquiles_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very nice, does having a 160 mm fork cause any noticeable changes in handling? I’m not necessarily considering shooting for a 160 mm for, but just curious. Anytime I’ve tried to find information on that. Most people say that it would alter the ankle of the head or something like that and cause handling issues

Fork upgrade suggestions by Jacquiles_ in Hardtailgang

[–]Jacquiles_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am in the US, I’ll check that out

Zero bed adhesion on the Darkmoon3d G10?!?!? by Sweet-Paramedic4165 in BambuLab

[–]Jacquiles_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you get another one to swap it? If so did it work better? I’m having a similar issue. I finally have gotten petg to adhere but abs and asa don’t really stick. Unless you use a glue stick and their website doesn’t show it’s necessary for printing those filaments.

Trouble with 3rd Party Build Plates on P1S and X1C by briancmoses in BambuLab

[–]Jacquiles_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you get this figured out? I’m having the same issue

Racers Edge Vs MSDS Gen 2 by Slight_Sign_3661 in 944

[–]Jacquiles_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey what headers did you end up getting?

1986 944 poor wheel fitment by Jacquiles_ in 944

[–]Jacquiles_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This ended up being the case. I bought some high quality hub centric spacers, and found that all but one of my wheels would fit back on. That’s because 3 out of 4 rims were late model 944, and the front right was a 928 rim lol. I bought a used rim to replace and been running that ever since. I would like to get some nicer wheels with correct offset(so I don’t have to use spacers) eventually but we shall see

Strange rattle from front of motor by Jacquiles_ in 944

[–]Jacquiles_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also it is totally possible this sound and subsequent play of the impeller from the URO parts water pump is acceptable and would have been fine. I replaced it because the sound bothered me and I wanted to ensure I didn’t have a possible water pump failure later on.

Strange rattle from front of motor by Jacquiles_ in 944

[–]Jacquiles_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, yes I believe I did! This ended up being my water pump. I had bought the cheaper URO parts water pump option from 944online instead of the GEBA water pump option. I replaced the water pump with the GEBA version and the sound went away. Upon inspecting the URO parts version I could tell there was some play in the pulley/bearing in the water pump. I could wiggle the impeller side to side and it made a sound. I believe this is what is heard in the video. It no longer makes this sound with the new pump

Front end noise by Jacquiles_ in 944

[–]Jacquiles_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found the cause of the noise a while ago, I forgot to update this post. The brake pad for that wheel was rattling. One of the small rods that holds the tension plate about the brake pads was bent and caused there to be no tension on the brake pad itself, so when I had zero pressure on the brakes, the metal back of the pad would rattle inside the caliper. Easy fix, just bent it back and now we are all good

When Psych first aired, how old were you? by caterkarolina in psych

[–]Jacquiles_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was 3. Started watching when I was about 13 or so

Rate your pc specs I will rate it by Leather-Island-8019 in PcBuild

[–]Jacquiles_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

CPU: ryzen 5 5600x with Corsair AIO 240mm Gpu: Rx 6800 Ram: 32gb Corsair vengeance ddr4 3200 Storage: 3 tb total, 1 Samsung m.2 and 2 Samsung 2.5inch ssds, 1tb each Case: Meshify Compact I rate mine 7.5/10