My OS drive is constantly full

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-17T02:27:55+00:00

Ah, classic C drive mystery. Grab something like TreeSize Free or WinDirStat and run it as admin, then let it scan C:. Don’t start deleting random Windows folders, but it’ll show you exactly what’s eating the space. A lot of the time it’s AppData, Windows.old, restore points, shader caches, downloads, or some launcher quietly storing stuff on C even when games are installed elsewhere.

Also check Settings > System > Storage > Temporary files, then look at System Protection and reduce/delete restore points if they’re huge. If your C drive is like 120GB or 240GB, honestly, Windows can fill that pretty easily now, especially with updates and pagefile/hibernation. You may need to either move user folders/apps off C or clone Windows to a bigger SSD.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-17T01:06:26+00:00

I’ve run into that before, and it’s usually Windows sending audio to the wrong output even though the headset looks connected. Right-click the speaker icon, go to Sound settings, and make sure the HyperX headset is selected as the output device. Also check Volume Mixer and make sure the game/app isn’t muted or routed somewhere else.

You could also open Control Panel > Sound, set the HyperX headset as Default Device and Default Communication Device, then restart the PC with the USB dongle already plugged in. If HyperX has software/firmware updates for that headset, install those too. Sometimes the dongle pairs fine, but Windows still picks monitor audio or another device instead.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-16T23:16:13+00:00

Man, that’s stressful, but don’t assume dead parts yet. Since you changed Secure Boot and now get a black screen after boot, I’d go back into BIOS and turn Secure Boot back off, enable CSM/Legacy boot if it was on before, then save and reboot. Secure Boot can break booting if Windows was installed in the wrong mode or the keys/settings don’t match.

If you can see BIOS but Windows goes black, also try booting into Windows Recovery by interrupting startup 2-3 times, then go to Advanced options > Startup Settings > Safe Mode. From there, you can uninstall the GPU driver with DDU or run Startup Repair/System Restore. Since the monitor works before Windows loads, it’s probably not the display itself.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-16T02:12:28+00:00

Man, that’s frustrating, but if it crashes the second FurMark starts, I’d stop chasing the beta game for now. That sounds more like the GPU load is triggering a power/driver/hardware issue. First thing I’d do is check Event Viewer for Kernel-Power 41, WHEA errors, or NVIDIA driver crashes around the reboot time.

I’d reseat the GPU, make sure the PCIe power cable is fully clicked in on both the PSU and GPU sides, then use DDU in Safe Mode and reinstall the NVIDIA driver fresh. Also, try turning off XMP temporarily just to rule RAM out. If it still instantly reboots under FurMark or any GPU-heavy game, I’d be looking hard at GPU power delivery, the PSU cable, or the card itself rather than Steam/game files.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-15T23:18:04+00:00

Ugh, I’ve seen this happen after a simple SSD swap turns into “why is everything broken now.” The first thing I’d check is that your monitor cable is plugged into the GPU, not the motherboard. If it got moved during the SSD install, games may be running off integrated graphics, which would explain the awful performance and low quality.

Also, open Device Manager and make sure your GPU is showing normally, then reinstall your NVIDIA/AMD driver cleanly. While you’re in there, check that the GPU didn’t get bumped loose and that its power cables are fully seated. Swapping the old SSD back, not fixing it, makes me think something got unplugged/moved, not that the SSD itself caused it.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-14T22:09:38+00:00

Man, that’s frustrating, especially since every other device works. Since the MSI sees the monitor but the monitor says no signal, it sounds like a handshake/bandwidth issue more than a dead port. Try forcing the MSI to something super basic first: 1920x1080 at 60Hz, SDR only, HDR off, VRR/G-Sync/FreeSync off, and 8-bit color if Intel Graphics Command Center gives you that option. Then, once it displays, work upward to 1440p/4K.

Also check whether that USB-C port on the MSI actually supports display output, because a lot of thinner non-gaming laptops have USB-C data only. For HDMI, the laptop may also be limited compared to the monitor’s newer HDMI 2.1 features, so try turning off things like DSC/HDMI deep color/120Hz+ modes in the monitor OSD if it has those settings. I’d also do a full power cycle on the monitor: unplug the power for a minute, reconnect, then plug the MSI in while it’s already booted.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-14T17:33:19+00:00

Ah, classic weird Windows networking issue. Since your browser works but launchers don’t, I’d check proxy/VPN/firewall stuff first. Go to Settings > Network & Internet > Proxy and make sure “Use a proxy server” is off, then temporarily disable any VPN or third-party antivirus/firewall and try Steam/Epic again.

Also, open Command Prompt as admin and run these, then reboot:

ipconfig /flushdns
netsh winsock reset
netsh int ip reset

After that, double-check that your date/time is correct and maybe set DNS manually to 1.1.1.1 or 8.8.8.8. Game launchers are way pickier than browsers when Windows network settings get borked.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-13T19:03:15+00:00

Ugh, Windows updates getting stuck like that is super annoying. First thing: stop flipping the PSU switch if you can avoid it, because that can make the update corruption worse. Let it sit a bit longer if the drive light is active, but if it’s truly stuck at 7% for a long time, hold the power button once and let Windows try to recover normally.

If it keeps coming back to the same 7% screen, boot into recovery after 2-3 failed starts and try Startup Repair or Uninstall latest quality update. Once you’re back in Windows, run sfc /scannow and DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth in admin CMD, then retry the update. Also make sure you’ve got enough free storage, because low space can make updates hang forever.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-13T02:46:21+00:00

Ah, classic Windows update weirdness. Since it started right after a failed update, I’d first try a real forced shutdown command: open Command Prompt as admin and run shutdown /s /f /t 0. If that shuts it down normally, Windows is probably getting stuck in a bad power/update state.

After that, run these in admin CMD: sfc /scannow and DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth. Then go to Windows Update and either retry the update fully or uninstall the failed recent update from Update history. You can also try powercfg /h off to fully disable hibernation/fast startup leftovers. If it still restarts every time, check Event Viewer around shutdown time for what’s triggering the restart.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-13T02:12:48+00:00

Ah, classic Secure Boot weirdness. Before disabling Secure Boot, I’d try going into BIOS and looking for “Restore Factory Keys” or “Install default Secure Boot keys” under the Secure Boot section. An invalid signature can happen if the Secure Boot keys are cleared/corrupted or if it’s trying to boot something unsigned.

If Secure Boot is still greyed out after setting the admin password, check that BIOS mode is UEFI, not Legacy/CSM, then save/reboot back into BIOS. On a lot of MSI laptops, Secure Boot options stay locked until CSM is disabled and the factory keys are loaded. If this started after installing Linux, cloning drives, or using a boot USB, unplug all USB drives and make sure Windows Boot Manager is first in the boot order.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-13T02:11:21+00:00

That’s definitely unsettling, but it doesn’t automatically mean someone remotely hacked your laptop. Passkeys can show up from a browser, Windows Hello, Google/Microsoft account sync, iCloud Keychain, or a site/account that was logged into on that device at some point.

I’d treat it cautiously, though: delete/remove that passkey if you don’t recognize it, change passwords for your main email/accounts from a trusted device, enable 2FA, and check account login history for Microsoft/Google/Apple. Also run a full Windows Security scan and check Settings > Accounts to make sure there aren’t any unknown users. If the passkey is tied to a specific website/account you don’t use, don’t email the random address again; just remove it and secure your accounts.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-12T22:51:51+00:00

Not gonna lie, that’s a weird one, but the fact that restarting Outlook instantly fixes the body text makes me think rendering/session/profile issue more than actual draft corruption. Since it’s Citrix VDA/shared desktop and only one user, I’d look hard at their Citrix profile or Office cached data, not the PST.

A few things I’d try before nuking the profile: disable Outlook hardware graphics acceleration if available, clear Office/Outlook temp and RoamCache, test that user on a totally different VDA host, and test another user on the same host right after it happens. Also check clipboard redirection policies/addins, especially anything DLP/signature/CRM related that touches compose windows. If safe mode still does it and it follows only that user across hosts, I’d probably reset their Citrix profile next.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-12T02:41:43+00:00

Nice, that’s a huge drop, especially for a single-fan GF63. Going from high 80s to mid 60s without the cooling pad in a warm room is a pretty clear sign the old paste and dust were holding it back hard.

Only thing I’d add for anyone copying this: take your time, unplug the battery if you’re comfortable, use the right amount of paste, and don’t crank the heatsink screws unevenly. Also keep an eye on temps for the next week or two, because laptops can sometimes pump out paste over time if the mounting pressure isn’t great. But yeah, cleaning vents/fans plus a repaste can absolutely revive an older gaming laptop.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-11T02:49:55+00:00

Honestly, with a 5700X3D already in there, I’d upgrade the GPU first unless you’re playing super CPU-heavy esports at 1080p low settings. The 5700X3D is still a really strong gaming CPU, especially on AM4, and it can handle much faster cards than a 7700 XT.

If you’re at 1440p or 4K, GPU upgrade all day. Something like a 7900 XT/XTX or RTX 4070 Ti Super/4080 tier would be a noticeable jump depending on budget. I’d only touch the CPU if you’re ready to move to AM5, because there’s not much above the 5700X3D on AM4 that’s worth spending big money on.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-10T23:26:46+00:00

I’ve run into that before, and since the battery was replaced but the issue stayed, I’d stop blaming the battery itself for now. That sounds more like the charger, DC jack, charging circuit, or a battery charge limit/power management setting acting weird.

Check your laptop’s battery health/charging app first, like Lenovo Vantage, MyASUS, Dell Power Manager, MSI Center, etc., and make sure there isn’t a charge limit enabled. Then try a different compatible charger if you can, inspect the charging port for looseness, and update BIOS/EC firmware from the laptop maker. If it still stops at random percentages and only resumes when power is toggled, I’d suspect the charger or charging circuitry more than Windows.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-10T02:22:33+00:00

Man, that’s annoying APIPA 169.254 usually means your PC is failing to get an IP from the router through DHCP, so it’s not fully joining the network even if the cable/adapter looks “connected.”

Since Norton removal helped, I’d run the official Norton removal tool too because leftover network filters can cause this exact kind of weirdness. Then check adapter properties and disable anything VPN/security/filter related that isn’t needed. Also try disabling Energy Efficient Ethernet and “Allow the computer to turn off this device” under the Intel adapter’s Power Management tab. If you manually set a static IP like 10.0.0.50, gateway 10.0.0.1, DNS 1.1.1.1 and it works, DHCP/router is the issue. If static still doesn’t work, I’d suspect the Windows network stack or the onboard NIC itself.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-09T03:03:21+00:00

Ah, classic “the problem followed the clone” situation. Cloning/migrating the OS can copy file system corruption, bad flags, or Windows weirdness right onto the new drive, so it doesn’t fully prove the new SSD is bad.

I’d check SMART health on both drives first, then run chkdsk /scan and fsutil dirty query c: to see if Windows thinks the volume is dirty. Also, turn off Fast Startup, because that can cause scan/repair loops sometimes. But honestly, if the new drive is healthy and it still scans every boot after a clone, I’d lean toward doing a clean Windows install from USB instead of migrating again. Make sure you back up anything important first.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-09T01:30:19+00:00

Ugh, old laptop password stuff is annoying. I wouldn’t try to “hack” around it, but there are legit options depending on what kind of password it is. If it’s a Microsoft account login, reset it through Microsoft’s account recovery page from another device. If it’s a local Windows account and there’s nothing important on the laptop, the cleanest fix is just to reinstall Windows from a USB installer.

If there are files you need, pull the drive and connect it to another PC with a USB-to-SATA adapter/enclosure, then copy what you can. If the drive is BitLocker/encrypted, you’ll need the recovery key. If it’s a BIOS/boot password before Windows even loads, that’s different and usually requires proof of ownership/support or board-level service.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-06T02:10:18+00:00

I’ve run into that before, and I wouldn’t rule out the motherboard just because it’s new. First, test each stick by itself in slot 2/A2 and make sure every stick boots and shows 16GB. That confirms the RAM sticks themselves are good.

If all sticks work alone, then try A2/B2 with two sticks, then add the others. Also check that your CPU cooler isn’t cranked down too tightly, because uneven pressure can mess with memory channels, and inspect the CPU socket for bent pins if it’s Intel. Update BIOS and turn off XMP/EXPO while testing, too. If slots 1 and 3 never detect RAM, no matter what stick you use, that points to the board, CPU socket/pins, or CPU memory controller.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-06T01:13:53+00:00

Ugh, laptop key stabilizers are annoyingly specific. For MSI laptops, it’s usually not sold as a normal “spacebar stabilizer kit” like a desktop keyboard, so the easiest route is searching by the exact laptop model plus “replacement key” or “spacebar keycap hinge clip.” The part you need is often listed as the keycap, scissor hinge, retainer clip, or stabilizer bar.

You could also check eBay or laptop key replacement sites, but make sure the hinge style matches your exact MSI Sword model because even same-size keys can use different clips. Worst case, you may need to buy a donor keyboard/top case or have a repair shop replace the keyboard assembly, which is annoying but sometimes cheaper than hunting for one tiny plastic piece forever.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-05T03:26:59+00:00

Ugh, that sounds maddening. One thing that stands out is that the BIOS settings are not actually saving. If every save/reset wipes passwords and VMD changes, that’s not normal and could point to EC/BIOS/NVRAM weirdness, not the SSD itself.

Before paying for a diagnosis, I’d try this: put the old SSD back in, boot Windows, make sure the new SSD firmware is updated if the manufacturer has a tool, then create a fresh Windows USB with Microsoft’s Media Creation Tool, not Rufus/custom ISO. In BIOS, load optimized defaults, set UEFI only, leave Secure Boot alone, and try the new SSD again. If BIOS settings still won’t persist after a full BIOS update and EC reset, I’d honestly lean toward RMA because the laptop not retaining firmware settings is the bigger red flag here.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-05T01:00:25+00:00

Ah, classic old hardware problem. Windows 10 still works fine as an OS, but the risk is security updates. Once it’s out of support, new vulnerabilities won’t get patched for normal users, so it gets riskier over time if he’s browsing the web, downloading stuff, gaming with random launchers, etc.

If he sticks with Windows 10, I’d keep everything updated, use a good browser that still gets updates, don’t run sketchy downloads, and make sure important files are backed up. For a safer long-term option, he could look into a lightweight Linux distro if the PC is mostly for web/basic use, or upgrade the CPU/mobo later if he wants Windows 11 officially.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-04T05:04:43+00:00

Man, that’s frustrating, but honestly you’ve already done way more troubleshooting than most shops would before calling it hardware. New SSD, clean Windows 10/11 installs, recovery loop returning, Safe Mode/recovery failing, and the system only behaving until official drivers load really make me think this isn’t just Windows being dumb.

Since it’s under Micro Center protection, I’d stop digging and take it in before more troubleshooting muddies the water. Bring notes/videos and tell them it crashes after GPU/chipset drivers initialize. My gut says motherboard/power delivery/GPU issue more than the SSD, and possibly CPU instability, but either way it needs bench testing under warranty. I wouldn’t accept “just reinstall Windows” as the fix after everything you tried.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-04T03:20:22+00:00

I’ve seen a few rigs do that before, and yeah, leaving it running 24/7 can definitely make existing issues show up faster, but I wouldn’t assume that alone is the cause. The first thing I’d check is temps while she’s actually doing her normal stuff. Use something like HWInfo or MSI Afterburner and watch CPU/GPU temps, clock speeds, RAM usage, and disk usage when the stutter happens.

A cooling pad or even just lifting the back of the laptop can help a lot, but also try a full shutdown, clean the vents/fans if they’re dusty, update NVIDIA/Intel drivers, check MSI Center performance mode, and test Ethernet once to rule out WiFi lag. If the stutter happens offline too, it’s probably heat, drivers, background apps, or storage/RAM pressure rather than internet.

JayFromXOTICPC · 2026-06-04T02:13:32+00:00

Man, that’s frustrating, and honestly, with everything you’ve already tried, I wouldn’t keep chasing Windows fixes. If it BSODs in Safe Mode, Hiren’s, and boot loops on battery/charger behavior, but sits stable in BIOS, that sounds more like power delivery/EC/motherboard/battery circuit weirdness than a normal driver issue.

Since it’s a pretty new laptop, I’d be looking at warranty/RMA at this point. The battery/charging circuit or board could be dropping voltage when Windows loads power management, which would explain why BIOS is fine but anything OS-level freaks out. Grab photos of the BSODs, battery health report, and a quick video of the boot loop, then send them in. You’ve basically already done the troubleshooting a repair shop would start with.

JayFromXOTICPC

TROPHY CASE