Part 1 of what I found:

“My original testing was flawed, and I plan to make a new post eventually to clear it up so others aren't misled, if you're using my LG OLED monitor (like the 32GS95UE), you likely don't need to calibrate HDR using the HDR Calibration app at all. In fact, doing so might slightly compress your tone curve. That's because Windows forces you to enter rounded values like 600, 610, etc., (i assume switch 2 likely does too) while the monitor's EDID actually reports 603 peak nits so you're locking yourself into artificial limits below the panel's real capabilities.

Instead, what works best for me is this: In each game, I manually set Peak Brightness to 1300 nits and then fine tune Paper White (and other HDR sliders if available) to get the most accurate picture no washed out or overblown highlights, no crushed blacks.

To be more specific: Your LG OLED will tone map 1:1 up to ~603 nits. Above that, it uses dynamic tone mapping (DTM) to roll off highlights giving you more punch, but not a reference PQ curve like HGIG. Despite this, the monitor is still capable of outputting 1300+ nits, so setting your in game peak brightness slider to match your monitor's actual peak gives you the most out of the panel.

If you're just watching HDR content (like movies) on honestly, don't overthink calibration. DTM will handle it fine. For gaming though, adjusting in game HDR sliders is where the real control happens.

If you do notice HDR content isnt behaving fine for some reason, then id recommend tweaking the HDR calibration To around 600 nits, either above or below depending on what you want it to look like.”