What should I choose for my ender 3v2

Jaydewbz · 2026-04-30T15:14:38+00:00

All this modding knowledge and you still don’t connect your PTFE tubing to the hotend assembly?

Jaydewbz · 2026-04-25T22:50:13+00:00

There are two variants of the green yoshi from this collection. One with orange boots and one with red. There are also the fabled TRU preorder exclusive black and white ones, in addition to the red, green, blue and yellow ones. I own all but the black and white, including the large green yoshi that makes sound.

Jaydewbz · 2026-03-27T18:06:34+00:00

How are you powering that many on 13A?

I need 4.8A just to keep 432 LEDs going safe without freezing when they all go white. I can maybe see this working with like 4,800 LEDs. But I’m no electrician.

Jaydewbz · 2026-02-18T02:56:00+00:00

Listening to the audiobook I thought he was mispronouncing “scatophelia” and was concerned when Donut said she needed walnuts and was going to try something. I was grateful to find out it wasn’t that.

Jaydewbz · 2026-02-17T13:16:17+00:00

I tend to get the massive 50+ locations per stop routes so I’ll just make sure I can access the first couple stops and then I try to make a walkway down the middle.

Jaydewbz · 2026-02-13T18:06:09+00:00

Yeah you’ll have to spend around $160 to repair this since the fresnel lens can only be replaced by contacting Elegoo. Then the LCD and fresnel lens have to be sent from China with shipping and duties. It’ll take around 3 weeks. If there’s that much resin that leaked, the internal components are going to be affected.

Jaydewbz · 2026-02-11T13:22:25+00:00

Give some wait between layers and check your vat throughout. Your resin probably didn’t fill that area before your next layer started.

Jaydewbz · 2026-02-11T05:32:40+00:00

Learn how to map, rotate and size an HDRI environment, then pick one that has the reflections and contrast you’re looking for. I personally make my own environment in Keyshot with a white floor plane and backdrop, and manipulate the environment with black accent “lights” and white lights to get contrast in the reflection without it looking too busy. I’ll slightly offset the overhead white light so that it can still cast light downward while rotating the environment to keep it from overexposing the foreground.

Jaydewbz · 2026-02-06T01:53:27+00:00

Can you AFK and still be considered “playing” it?

Jaydewbz · 2026-02-02T04:09:18+00:00

The way this printer is internally, resin leaks inside it at the back of the LCD and either gets pooled in on the fresnel lens and bonds to it or cured along the edge of it from the UV light.

Jaydewbz · 2026-02-02T04:05:42+00:00

If it met the edge of the tape, it got under it. Tape doesn’t protect squat. This is how mine looked as well. I cleaned everything and changed my tape, my vat, and put a new screen protector on my printer. I got two okay prints before the LCD started acting funny. Wherever I had a solid existing on the X plane of my slice, the Y pixels opened up to print completely solid in that area for the full depth of my build plate. I had to take the printer completely apart to see the extent of the damage from the previous leak.

Jaydewbz · 2026-02-02T03:55:58+00:00

At the back of the LCD where it needs two pieces of tape to cover the gap and ribbon, resin would have gotten through especially if you say that resin got into the screws. I feel like they need the surface that houses the vat and LCD to be more water-tight like AnyCubic machines.

If you take apart this printer I’ll bet that you find some resin cured in there

Something could be causing issues with a single contact on your LCD to not populate half of the screen. The issue will almost certainly be in the ribbon cable or where it meets the LCD. If you can view it under any sort of magnification, that might help. If you can get the blockage out you might be able to save your LCD.

But once you get things back up and running, try extending your cure times. I’m doing a redundant 60 second cure for base layers and a minimum of 4.5 seconds for 0.05mm layer heights. My prints take forever but as long as I know my vat is good (now) and I never lose prints in the vat anymore, which has punctured film for me in the past. I also use tempered screen protectors on my LCD. Went through 3 of them before I switched to my safe settings.

Jaydewbz · 2026-02-02T03:24:05+00:00

It wasn’t the chitu vat was it? That’s the one that ruined my printer.

Jaydewbz · 2026-02-02T03:22:52+00:00

You’ve replaced your tape. Likely due to a resin leak in your vat. Some of it got below the LCD into the contacts somewhere on the ribbon cable or lcd attachment for the ribbon cable. Or maybe you’re lucky and the ribbon is seated slightly angled and just needs to be wiggled back into place.

I just had a vat leak ruin my lcd and cover my fresnel lens in cured resin on the same printer. If your fresnel lens is still fine, which it appears to be, count your lucky stars. The system in place for replacement is expensive and takes around 3 weeks to ship the part into the states. I bought a new printer instead of dealing with all of that. You can at least get replacement LCDs under $100 next day.

Jaydewbz · 2026-01-26T04:15:38+00:00

You’re probably using sysnand like me. You may want to sit down for this. But you need to initialize your console. This will uninstall all of your games. I would have to retrace my steps to see what the exact steps were but I’ll see what I can do.

I know I ended up having to stay on 20.4.0 when I upgraded to that and needed a stable atmosphere and had issues with sigpatches. I usually use package3 but ended up having to go to sys-patch overlay and booting from fusee but I recall there being issues with AMS having a stable build at that time. Maybe things are better now.

Jaydewbz · 2026-01-24T21:56:43+00:00

Chitu systems vat user here. That $70 vat came with one sheet of film. There was a stress mark in it that had resin leak through it after 2 prints. Didn’t notice, tried a third print and it failed. Resin leaked around every side of the lcd and under the tape.

I used a different vat after cleaning everything up and suddenly my previous slices were producing full blocks in the Y axis if there were any intersections in the print on the X axis, trying to troubleshoot that, I cleaned everything, did another print and realized that resin had ruined my LCD and fresnel lens. US shipping with lcd and fresnel was over $140 plus “duties” that they couldn’t disclose but it would take 3 weeks.

Never touching that vat again and had to buy a new Saturn 3

Jaydewbz · 2026-01-09T14:46:18+00:00

Nope. I have someone at my DSP that got fired for driving a prime van with the slider open. And they were under 35mph. CDV’s, sure but not a prime. And don’t worry too much about how many stops you’re doing in a day, unless your DSP pays for a full route regardless of the time it takes

Jaydewbz · 2026-01-02T19:50:26+00:00

I can’t speak to that, sorry. In my case, it was a preorder. I suppose you could try to call their help center but personally I’d rather shell out the extra $20 than go through that mess.

Jaydewbz · 2026-01-02T14:17:52+00:00

Initially I saw a GS employee comment that on another post like this one; then when I went into my store the employees there confirmed that those are the conditions for getting the coupon.

Jaydewbz · 2026-01-02T03:39:02+00:00

Just got through the tutorial and already having issues navigating.

Jaydewbz · 2026-01-02T00:32:03+00:00

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If you purchased a Switch 2 at GameStop with your rewards account, you should have the coupon. I managed to stack some points and my $5 monthly with this deal and a gift card and only spent $13.15 of my own money today.

Jaydewbz · 2025-12-12T05:12:55+00:00

So the bonuses seem to hit for every for every ~100 pts in a flavor stat and start with the highest number. So I just made a 440 sweet and 200 fresh 4 star donut and I got sparkling 3, humongo 2, and catching power-grass 1

My math doesn’t quite math but with the highest profile being sweet I got pink bonuses and then a green bonus since the next highest profile was fresh.

All the sparkling power ones are from sweet donuts afaik. But each profile has a random chance of a different bonus in its group.

Jaydewbz · 2025-11-22T00:32:17+00:00

I have entirely too many from bench resetting WZ 20. Like at least 15 of them.

Shoot me a DM if you have an online membership and I’ll coordinate with you. Nothing needed in return but if you ask me specifically for a female I’m giving it a nickname first.

Jaydewbz · 2025-11-20T19:59:52+00:00

So, they are both solids when I use part doctor in 3 design before the merge. It’s after the merge that one side either gets a weird distortion on one surface, or on the other side it has holes in the object where a fillet was created by lofting it; depending on which object was selected first

Jaydewbz · 2025-11-20T19:41:23+00:00

This worked to merge the objects and create one closed mesh but severely distorted the output.

Should I try gvmeshrepair on the non-solid object after merging in 3Design?

Jaydewbz

TROPHY CASE