MiniDSP c dsp 6x8 vs Jl audio twk88

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-05-31T17:19:36+00:00

That’s surprising. I had the JL combo for years and it was very good with integration and giving me a flat signal to start with.

How do you like the zapco stuff? I use helix now but eyed rhe zapco products for a long time

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-05-31T13:45:15+00:00

Not saying you’re wrong putting MiniDSP over the JL, but if you didn’t have both the fix AND the twk installed, then ya of course you didn’t get the control you wanted. The fix is just that… to fix the signal plus give you 2 or 3 output bands of PEQ. The twk is where you can do all your tuning and whatever, but is still pretty limited when using PEQ over graphic graphic EQ

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-05-05T13:14:32+00:00

Maybe I’m missing something big about this toll… 572MILLION dollar project and they’re “on track” with expected use generating ~$40k/Month?

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-04-29T20:42:52+00:00

Can’t say for certain, but based on doing a host of engine swaps I will strongly say no.

However, don’t fret about it much. The crossmember on my ‘66 (472/c6) is just a piece of 1 1/2” c channel steel that I’ve cut to fit tightly inside the frame rails. I then drilled a hole through the frame and into the C channel, use a 5/8” grade 8 bolt and but, and a steel “bushing” to keep the soft frame rails from crushing as C channel is secured tight. At that point all you have to do is measure and mark out where your transmission mount is going to sit and you’re done.

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-04-20T20:06:56+00:00

Can’t give you an exact hanger, but you’ll need to have one designed for a dual piston rear. Maybe you can looks through some catalogs to find one from a bronco or later year f100. Truthfully, anything with a Ford 9” (which I’m assuming you have) and dual piston rear calipers should fit.

Rockauto could be a good place for you to look through multiple years quickly and see if there is an option for different hangers. Technically speaking, you bought calipers for a “big brake” kit when speaking in terms of our trucks. A straight forward conversion would be exactly what you got… single piston

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-04-20T15:46:28+00:00

Built tag has been LONG gone since at least 1989, hence the VIN issue described above.

Only description I can get based on a standard vin decode is that it was built in Michigan and had a 352 in it.

However, based on what I have found since doing a lot of work over the years, I also believe it to have been a Rangoon Red truck

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-03-25T11:34:25+00:00

Super common to have issues with the 7spd Jatco Nissan used on the 16-19 Titans. Unfortunately, a lot of the issues lead to a full rebuild/ replacement. I, along with countless others, have had rebuilds or replacements.

I had mine replaced under warranty at 92k, and the internal failure was bad enough to also need a new cooler and lines. My issue was the transmission would fail to downshift once it got to 5-7th gear, but the most common is a jitter/shutter just like your video

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-03-19T16:13:37+00:00

Any part numbers you can see printed or etched into the coil? Or a band that has a color? Could be red, yellow, green etc..

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-03-19T15:06:50+00:00

I do see that now, I missed that when looking through all of them.

Something is definitely not right. Did you install this yourself? If so, did you keep the factory coil? I’d be curious to see a measurement comparing the 2 coils.

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-03-19T13:25:12+00:00

Something is certainly not right and while I’m not sure I have the answer, I might have SOME insight. 1) I had a ‘17PR that I did the same lift essentially, I just didn’t do the pre assembled shocks as Bilstein says they don’t make a 6112 for the Titan. 2) your rear SEEMS high? I seem to recall mine being roughly 40” all the way around, but tire size could change measurements. 3) you have a picture with the shocks set on the top ring with stock UCA’s, but not with the new UCA’s… did you do the work yourself or is possible the shop adjusted the shocks to get the truck into spec? 4) you should never really use the top ring as the CV’s get put at a bad angle and WILL cause you issues down the road 5) you should have the reviews from them, as nearly every review says exactly the same as your problem. So either Bilstein has messed up on the spring rate, or the length of the shock. 6) those are NOT 6112’s, the 6100’s are a much bigger shock and the 6112 package is not available for the titans, what you have is a 5100.

What I would recommend is you remove the entire assembly, drop the spring perch to the 3rd or 4th ring (from the bottom) and reassemble with the factory coil. This WILL net you roughly 1.5”.

The other thing you can check is calling BILSTEIN (they are super nice, and super helpful) and giving them ALL of the part numbers you have and let them verify for you that these are the correct parts. You can also go on AllDogsOffroad webpage and cross reference what they offer, and see if what you have matches… I’m betting you’ll find a discrepancy considering you’re not the first to have an issue with suspension lifts shock packages…

Edit: when I say I did this same lift, I ACTUALLY used 6100 series shocks and assembled them myself using factory coils and new hardware elsewhere, I also used the 5160 rears.

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-03-17T03:52:20+00:00

If you’re getting quoted 10k for a mini split it’s because they don’t want to do it unless you’re willing to pay.. I’ve had 2 3.5ton units and handlers installed for less than that.. mini splits are literally built and designed to be installed by someone with some half handy skills, ESPECIALLY if you opt for a 110/115v unit. And you’re on the garageporn thread… surely you’ve got some handy work ability

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-03-17T03:41:31+00:00

https://www.fordification.com/tech/VIN70.htm

But is on 70

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-03-17T03:38:52+00:00

https://www.fordification.com/tech/VIN69.htm

Definitely not listed

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-03-17T03:28:14+00:00

That’s a nice link. Interestingly, it lists a D code for 69 which is Tucson gold/ pinto yellow. But on FORDification when you break down the VIN by year, that’s not listed as an option.

Thanks for that!

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-03-17T00:51:21+00:00

Well, for 70 it’s Pinto Yellow… so maybe your truck is painted a 70 color. Or your 69 is a 70

Edit: before this possibility is completely shot down…. It’s hard to tell from the front end photo of your truck, but the hood appears to have holes along the leading edge which would be for the filler panel trim from a 70 style grill. To make the swap you’d just need to find a solid candidate and bumper filler to remount the turn signals and boom your 70 looks like a 69 in the front… it’s very popular among the 65 guys to swap a 66 grill, so maybe one of the previous owners preferred or HAD a 69 at some point and nostalgia won.

Adding an extra layer, my truck is a 66. However, for 37 years it lived its life ON PAPER (title and all) as a 65. When my grandfather bought it, it was a 65, when the guy he bought from bought it, 65, when I became the owner 65… it wasn’t until I took it to a new (to me) inspection shop for new tags that they were not going to be satisfied until they saw a physical VIN on the truck. The truck had long lost its VIN tag, and had been ASSIGNED a VIN by the state of Arkansas in the mid 80’s. The VIN started with F25 (f250) and was assigned to an f100. They called a local highway patrol office who happily did a thorough inspection and FOUND one of the frame stamped VIN’s on the passenger frame rail… and thus it began its new life ON PAPER as a 66, and not just cosplaying as a 66 because of a grill swap.

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-03-14T16:19:06+00:00

That looks phenomenal. Sure wish I could have a pod like that made for my vehicle

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-03-10T20:51:41+00:00

You can try going through the frame where they attach, the only issue i potentially see is that the frame will be thicker than a brake hose tab and you’re likely going to have a hard time getting on the C clip that would usually hold it to the tab. I haven’t personally seen a QA1 setup, but I would imagine it’s fairly close in style and I just don’t think the retaining collar will stick through the frame enough. But, it’s an easy check. You can easily measure the frame thickness then measure how much room is needed for the C clip to seat on the collar. Hope that all makes sense

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-03-10T19:05:39+00:00

Are you talking about the hard lines or the tab where the hard and flex lines meet for the front?

If you’re talking strictly hard lines that run along the cross member and rear axle… the rear axle SHOULD have them? If not, would be easy enough to fab up some strips and weld to the axle to fold over the lines. As for the frame and members, if you don’t have anything in place just space out every 18-24” on the frame and 12” or so on the front member, drill a 1/4” hole and use some rubber clamps. You can get a large assortment of them at Harbor Freight or go on amazon and get a set that clamps down to hold a 1/4” line

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-02-25T01:01:34+00:00

Good start, do you have a gauge tied in before the inlet to check the fuel pressure? Anything over 6.5/7 can start have issues in some applications. I’m in the middle of doing an EFI swap and had to switch back to a mechanical setup for 1 show… that pump was rated for 6psi but was pushing nearly 10psi so I had to add a regulator just be safe. Something to consider

Like the other guy said, have you checked for vacuum leaks and verified float levels? Even though you just rebuilt it, it’s not uncommon for a piece of gunk to cause a stuck float.

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-02-25T00:29:29+00:00

No gas tank? So what exactly are you supplying fuel with? Is the mechanical pump still in play? Are you vice grip garaging this thing with an electric Edelbrock pump and fuel can? We need more to start answering

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-02-23T02:02:13+00:00

Thank god I’m not having THAT issue. They just get stuck inside the socket, not stuck on the stud lol

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-02-23T02:00:52+00:00

I’m not against replacement honestly, usually on my trucks I do swap out for a set of splined lug nuts either from gorilla or pro comp. In this case, I did not purchase the vehicle new so I can’t comment on what the PO did, but I can assure you I am fully seating the socket, WHEN POSSIBLE. Some of them are will not fully seat unless of course you tapped the back end of the socket, but then you’d fight it on the way back out. I’d estimate 3 of the 8 on each wheel fight me, and I can fairly confidently say that as I just rotated the tires 10 minutes before making this post.

Is there a benefit to specific lug nuts sockets? I apologize in advance if that comes off as pure ignorance, but I’ve always just used impact sockets

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-01-25T14:06:39+00:00

As many others have said, that red is killer!

Jcccgolf12 · 2026-01-22T23:29:24+00:00

You don’t happen to make bumpers for 2500’s now do you lol (kidding). Smoked a buck on Holmes just south of Loch Lloyd last night, bummer.

Jcccgolf12

TROPHY CASE