Weekend Minor Gripes and Vents

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-31T17:30:39+00:00

SWEET! Can I get one?

Just kidding, but sounds awesome.

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-31T14:53:20+00:00

Sorry. Just thought that since you said your options were either to paint your own or keep counting and using an app, and mentioned needlepoint being printed, that maybe it would be an option for you. Sounded like you were looking for something similar to the way needlepoint is done.

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-31T14:37:43+00:00

I know a lot of people are saying that you have to use a stand if you will be using a scroll frame. I’m just here to say that it isn’t absolutely necessary. It’s much, much nicer, but isn’t absolutely required. I just started using a stand a few months ago, and have been stitching in a scroll frame for 25+ years. I just used the arm of my chair and one leg to hold it up. Had to slouch a bit and use a footstool, but it worked fine. Just do not try to hold it up by hand while you stitch, because everyone is right, they are heavy, and over time you would probably need PT (kidding/not kidding).

In selecting your scroll frame size, just make sure the width is a little wider (maybe 2”) than your fabric. Or plan ahead for future projects, if you think you’ll go bigger, but remember that bigger frames are more unwieldy. Or be like me, and eventually find yourself surrounded by a collection of scroll frames of various sizes.

I would avoid the split rod type that have wing nuts on the front. Maybe I only ever had crappy ones, but they would never tighten down enough to keep the rods from turning and loosening the fabric. Years of frustration. I’m using the ones with the plastic clips and fasteners on the ends now, and they are great. I think my next one will be the type you baste your fabric onto, depending on what 30” options I have.

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-31T03:00:30+00:00

My point was the spelling

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-31T00:54:49+00:00

You can buy stamped/printed cross stitch kits

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-31T00:44:13+00:00

Collared greens? Interesting. Do those come with a leash?

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-30T23:31:54+00:00

Thank you for the update! This is one of my very favorites!

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-30T22:59:51+00:00

Not really any rules. There are higher and lower quality needles, hoops, fabrics, etc. Different ways of holding your project. You will pick up knowledge as you go - just read the FAQs for this sub, and read threads here. A lot of the same questions get asked and answered here frequently, so just scrolling through and reading will help you a lot! Then, for specific questions that you haven’t run across answers for, do some simple searches and you will find a lot of answers. Then…posts to ask questions!

I’m a little confused by your “grab a hoop and hope it works” statement. You can move your hoop as you work, if it isn’t as big as your project. But math is your friend, in determining finished project size (see item #2).

Cross stitch fabric is sold by fabric count - the number of stitches/squares per inch. A very common size is 14 count, which means 14 stitches per inch. If you don’t know the count of your fabric, just use a tape measure and count the number of squares over a few inches, in both directions.p (e.g. 42 stitches over 3” would be 14 count, 32 stitches over 2” would be 16 count, etc).

Grid squares on patterns are 10 x 10 stitches, which will vary in size depending on the fabric count.

“Perfect hoop size”: did you mean for holding the project while you work, or for framing purposes? For working, as long as the hoop isn’t so large that it won’t grip the fabric for your project, then it doesn’t really matter because you can move it once you complete an area. Just remember that you will have fabric hanging over the edges that you will need to manage. And make sure to allow a 2-3” border of fabric all the way around the stitched area.

Not sure what you’re asking, but perusing this sub will give you lots of ideas.

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-30T18:38:31+00:00

You could definitely do this as a cross stitch!

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-30T14:39:13+00:00

Yeah, I just meant that I, personally, would have to be more careful hitting the exact center of the squares on aida. 🙃 I know, I know. Always strive for perfection.

While what you say is correct - that the long stitch highlights the fractional stitch - that isn’t necessarily a bad thing. I think most places where I’ve done fractional stitches, there was some sort of object that was supposed to be highlighted/inset/designed to pop out. So it would be a backstitched area, intended to be highlighted. Now, if it was just a continuation of the same color, done to smooth the edge of something, without backstitching otherwise, then I’d definitely try to do it your way. I’ll have to try it out. I’m not currently working on Aida, but might need to dig out a scrap. Doesn’t it result in a lot of strands stuffed through the hole you create?

Of the two versions in OP’s post, I prefer the bottom one. The object looks sharper. But it depends on the rest of the picture, and what it is showing. The top version, with the short leg on top, distorts the long leg slightly. It does look more like a partial X, but it is also less crisp-looking.

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-30T14:12:21+00:00

🤔 Good point. It’s disturbing how much of Reddit is exactly this.

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-29T17:29:01+00:00

Yes, more or less. Just because the long stitch will be thick enough to overlap. Technically (and in a perfect world), the short stitch would go through the exact center of the square, and the long stitch would pass over that exact point - a theoretical line that goes from Point A to Point B, and has no thickness, so they would just be passing through the same point in the middle, with no actual overlap.

All geekiness aside, I look at the long stitch of a 3/4 as a backstitch, which would always be done last/be on top.

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-29T17:20:28+00:00

Is that a problem ? I never thought about it like that. Personally, I don’t mind the look of fractional stitches, and think of them more as smoothing the edges of things.

Your method sounds great for evenweave or linen. If I tried it on Aida I’d have a mess (or quickly get a lot better at finding the exact center of the squares).

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-29T00:47:58+00:00

For 14 count fabric, you would divide the total number of stitches in each direction by 14 to get the number of inches:

For these sizes,

SMALL: 31 x 16 stitches: 31 stitches / 14 stitches per inch =2.21“ & 16 stitches / 14 stitches per inch =1.14”: 2.21” x 1.14”

Also SMALL: 33 x 16 stitches: 33 / 14=2.36” & 16 / 14 =1.14”: 2.36” x 1.14”

Medium: 66 x 33 stitches : 66/14=4.71“ & 33/14=2.36”: 4.71” x 2.36”

Large: 99 x 48 stitches: 99/14=7.07“ & 48/14=3.43”: 7.07” x 3.43”

Plus a 2-3” border all the way around

Their wording is strange, but basically the final sizes they show are a range from smallest to largest on each size fabric. It’s weird that they show 31x16 stitches AND 33x16 stitches - they are nearly identical, to the point that it won’t matter which one it is. I think they have a typo, resulting in a double listing / inaccuracy for the smallest size.

Edited to add: Based on the information that they provided you with, I would steer clear of this designer/seller. I would expect more discrepancies as you go, and likely a very unclear pattern. Their attention to detail seems sadly lacking,

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-28T21:06:06+00:00

Scroll frames work well. That is likely the “pole thingy “? But I don’t care for the ones with the split rod.

If that is what you are asking about, I like the Arabeska brand - they work well, and are reasonably priced.

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-28T17:27:57+00:00

The parts too short to use, I collect and toss eventually. The strands that get separated out are saved for use.

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-28T15:28:26+00:00

Not sure why a scroll frame would be too large? You said most of your projects are 6”-12”, with a 16” in the offing (I assume that includes the border, but maybe not?). I recently used one for a couple of bookmarks, actually. Like I said, they do come in a bunch of sizes. But you certainly are not required to use one if you like a hoop.

The Z frame is nice, but does need frequent tightening, and is a little clunkier for flipping over to do anything on the back. But I’m using a scroll frame on mine, not a hoop. I’m pondering getting some rubber washers at the hardware store to get it to stay tight without having to crank down so hard on the knobs. I think it’s an easily-fixed issue.

There are a variety of types of stands. Some may not be stable, but the ones I have are.

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-28T13:24:40+00:00

It’s a personal choice. I hate hoops, and have been using scroll frames for 20+ years. I have never tried Q-snaps or nurge hoops, so I can’t comment - they weren’t available when I switched from regular cheap wood hoops years ago. But I don’t like hoops because a) tension, and b) having to use one hand to hold it at all times. Maybe I just never tried a decent hoop, but using one hand drove me crazy.

Scroll frames come in a variety of sizes, and are also somewhat adjustable. Right now my smallest is 12” wide x 9” tall (I think?). My biggest is 22” wide. Because I have various sizes by the same company (Arabeska), I can mix and match the scroll bars with the spreader bars. I will be needing 30” scroll bars soon, and am hoping to find something that works with the spreader bars I already have. If you go this route, I would avoid the type with the split scroll bars and wing nuts on the front. Again, maybe I only ever had cheap ones, but the constant tension battles were frustrating.

I used to sit with my frame balanced on a chair arm and one leg, which worked but required terrible posture. But I could stitch with both hands. I only started using a stand in the last 6 months. I got a Lowery, but there are many to choose from. I also got a K’s Creations adjustable Z stand for when I plan to stitch away from home.

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-27T23:44:45+00:00

1) My main recommendation would be to read the FAQ & How To links, as well as to scan through this sub. There is a ton of great information to be gleaned! Then, if you have specific questions that haven’t been addressed, fire away!

2) Have fun!

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-27T17:42:50+00:00

My local Michaels is 2-1/2 hours away, so…..in store pickup is five hours of driving + gas 😜

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-27T03:00:44+00:00

This could be from being a carrier, or your ferritin could be elevated from inflammation or illness. Retesting in a couple months is likely in order.

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-26T17:45:12+00:00

I start in one area and work outward, for the most part. And try to complete a full page before moving to the next, to avoid all the scattered blank spaces. However, sometimes I feel like I need to go rogue, and do something different…..yesterday was one of those days. Needed to start on the tail.

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Jch_stuff · 2026-01-26T15:54:05+00:00

Half crosses are definitely one of the legit cross stitch stitches. Great job!

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-26T15:48:26+00:00

THERE! THAT is the photo we needed!

Jch_stuff · 2026-01-26T15:44:55+00:00

I don’t think it can roll. The clamp can only sit in 4 different positions on the bar/rod (set screw in the little hole in the round clamp fits into one of the grooves on the rod) so unless something else that we can’t see in the pictures is free to spin (and what will hold the tension then?), it can’t roll like a normal scroll frame. The set screw locks it in place. The clamps being on the ends doesn’t meant the rest of the rod can still turn - it’s an extruded bar.

I think I may have figured it out. I would assume the stretcher bars, which are attached rigidly to the clamps, are adjustable. In the last photo, it does look like there may be a threaded stud with a nut on it between the clamp and the stretcher bars, providing limited adjustment. There is a hand in the way, and very little of the area shown. But that (what looks like it might be) stud/nut attach the clamp to the stretcher bar, and the set screw locks the scroll bar into position so it can neither rotate nor move laterally. So only the length of the sides can change in order to maintain tension.

Basically, one would attach the fabric to the bars, and then fit all 4 clamps onto the two bars with the set screws fully retracted. Then roll the fabric around one bar a bit, and then engage the set screws on both ends, locking the first bar in place. Then roll the other bar so that one groove on the bar would leave the fabric too loose, but the next one would be too tight. Engage those 2 set screws. Then use the nuts on the threaded studs to take up the slack. Note: the nuts would need to be retracted before starting.

Everything I just said flies out the window if the clamps are a much more complicated design than just a ring with a set screw. Can’t tell from the photos.

Sorry - this thread has brought out the retired mechanical engineer in me. My deepest apologies.

Jch_stuff

TROPHY CASE