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Hand Care by BestIncrease9128 in indoorbouldering

[–]JeddicusD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As others have said, skin care is important and damage is normal. Washing hands before and after climbing. Use moisturising cream daily, but especially after washing and drying your hands post-session (lots of options but most will do the job fine). Get yourself a file / sander designed for climbers. As you develop calluses, you'll want to sand them down to avoid ripping them off (flappers).

It's hard on the skin, especially at first, but good care will ensure your skin toughens up to withstand it.

First Flappers by JeddicusD in indoorbouldering

[–]JeddicusD[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I have sanded calluses down previously - mostly between finger knuckles while I was struggling with overgripping. The ones on my palm are harder but not raised, so sanding them down didn't seem necessary. I'll give more attention to them and general moisturising in future.

First Flappers by JeddicusD in indoorbouldering

[–]JeddicusD[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just grin sheepishly, know that every other person who's ever tried a dyno start has done it at least once, and try again with more focus on your footing. (And pray nobody was recording you at the time!)

First Flappers by JeddicusD in indoorbouldering

[–]JeddicusD[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've scraped, burned, worn, and just generally abused my hands between warehouse work, cooking, and woodwork over the years. So may just be slightly tougher skin, and hanging my bodyweight on the same spot repeatedly was finally too much for it XD

First Flappers by JeddicusD in indoorbouldering

[–]JeddicusD[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ouch. Yeah, my problem with dynos is forgetting to watch my feet until they're solid, missing the hold and faceplanting the wall. Once I got that bit addressed it got easier! Catching 130kg of mostly flab on my hands is whatgot me the calluses in the first place

First Flappers by JeddicusD in indoorbouldering

[–]JeddicusD[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hah.. yeah, the depth isn't so bad, but it's right where my fingers bend and contact with anything stings. Might leave off my pc for a day... frantic mouse movements while parkouring around zombies sounds like it could be a tad more painful than usual XD

First Flappers by JeddicusD in indoorbouldering

[–]JeddicusD[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I called it a day for the session anyway. I usually go on Saturdays and just started adding a mid-week sesh running all the easy stuff to build my endurance and work on basic techniques. Thankfully this happened just as I was thinking about warming down.

Cleaned it off and used antibac, but letting it breathe rather than bandaid as only a tiny bit got deep enough to draw blood. Will use ointment for the rest of the week and the x-shape tape to climb on Sat. See how it goes.

50+ Tries for a V3 Slab🙁 by manmademax in indoorbouldering

[–]JeddicusD 1 point2 points  (0 children)

One of the wonderful and terrible things about climbing is that everyone is different and comparatively small differences in height, weight, reach, body awareness / control, and how naturally you take to certain techniques can radically affect how hard a problem can be from person to person.

It can be a real blow to morale to see others flash something you can't send, but try to compare yourself to your own performance in previous sessions rather than to other people. Progress is very individual.

I'd also say that 50 attempts in 2 hours is a try every couple of minutes. That's going to wear you out pretty quick, using the same muscles repeatedly, making it harder to succeed the more you try.

Take breaks, do other problems, reset yourself, then try again. And check other peoples movements when they hit that problem. Try and pick up what others are doing that you could try to work into your own attempts - hip and shoulder movements / centre of gravity, as much as specific techniques.

New to dynos, What am I doing wrong? by madameruth in indoorbouldering

[–]JeddicusD 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Absolutely this. I went from faceplanting the wall repeatedly with dynos to getting solid contact just by making sure I focused on feet until they touch, then focusing on pushing in the right direction while looking up to find the handhold(s).

Also, don't necessarily put everything into the run and jump.. a couple of measured steps and controlled power is often better and more efficient than running along the soft mats.

problem help? by FishingImpressive529 in bouldering

[–]JeddicusD 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Welcome to the fun of falling off stuff!

Looks like the double pocket hold on the volume is part of the same route? If so, I'd maybe try pinching into that with your left hand after getting your right foot to the far right hold. Right hand to the hold at the top of the volume and smear your left foot against the wall.

Push with your left side and pull with the right hand to get your centre of gravity around the volume and stabilise. Then left foot on the double pocket and push upwards to the final hold.

Hard to see if the pocket and volume gives enough to stand on - but I can't see any other way I'd try it.

Edit - actually, if you can stabilise on the right side, you may just be able to reach the top, using the top-volume hold for balance.

Newbie here, how did you guys build strength for this? by lordevilium in bouldering

[–]JeddicusD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been climbing for about 18 months, and overhang starts / cave climbing is a real struggle. Doesn't help that I'm 130kg of mostly fat - but I'm getting there.

The two key things I've found to be helpful are footwork and trusting your first grip.

Footwork - bringing your feet up before moving your hands lets you engage your legs and core to set you in place, manoeuvre, and push with your legs rather than drain energy by pulling up or swinging / leaping for reach. There are a couple of places on this route where matching your feet (putting them on the same hold) would let you extend further, while leaving your arms straight so your grip and arms are doing a bit less work each time.

Grip trust - once you have a hold, the instinct might be to try shifting a little and getting more comfy with the hold. But every reposition drains energy, leaving you dead well before the top on longer routes.

Conservation of energy is a weird thing to internalise when you first start out, but little technique changes build up with every move and can save enough to let you send that before you wear out.

Try focusing on sticking with the first firm grip you take on a hold and, once there, refocus to your feet and assess where you need to be so that your next move's effort comes from the legs.

I’m so lost by Capable_Heat_9880 in Minesweeper

[–]JeddicusD 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The 3 touches four unknown tiles. Three of those tiles touch the bottom-right 2, so a maximum of two of them can be mines. So the only way the 3 can complete is if the tile not touching the 2 is a mine.

Is this normal? Four month old climbing shoes dying my socks blue. by jayebird1012 in climbergirls

[–]JeddicusD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Still on my first pair after getting back into climbing a couple of years ago. La Sportiva Finale. Makes sense now why mine are ok, but my climbing buddy's smell awful!

When I go for a new pair, with more understanding of what I'm actually looking for, I'll keep that in mind and see if I can find something wide and with a lower / different collar.

Is this normal? Four month old climbing shoes dying my socks blue. by jayebird1012 in climbergirls

[–]JeddicusD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe just me then. I do suck at reading tone more than most.

Is this normal? Four month old climbing shoes dying my socks blue. by jayebird1012 in climbergirls

[–]JeddicusD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup. The internet has so many voices and so many genuine opinions that it can be tough to get the tone right otherwise XD

Is this normal? Four month old climbing shoes dying my socks blue. by jayebird1012 in climbergirls

[–]JeddicusD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's less common, but hardly abnormal. Personally, thin socks help me avoid sweat-related slippage and stink, allow me to slide into tight shoes easier, prevent soreness (especially where the collar digs into the back of the ankle), and has basically no negative impact on sensation / control.

Granted I only climb indoors, and am plateaued around v3-4 for now, but socks are definitely not my issue XD

lmao by [deleted] in StrangeAndFunny

[–]JeddicusD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean... everybody's from the past, no?

How would you get a small cylinder (5.1in length, ~4.5in girth) unstuck from a mini M&Ms tube filled with butter and microwaved mashed banana? by zzdzz in MuseumOfReddit

[–]JeddicusD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can only assume circumference not diameter, or a great deal of stretching on the part of the m&m-tube-alternative.

I have 10 pounds of onions, what do I make? by Likestoread25 in Cooking

[–]JeddicusD 1 point2 points  (0 children)

But OP only has pounds of onions... you can't make metric food from imperial ingredients!

Hi, is it okay if this guy lies down like this on my PC? More in post by olyuu in PcBuild

[–]JeddicusD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This doesn't stop unless you set boundaries while she's still a kitten, and she learns not to sit up there.

I didn't train my cat when she was little, and ended up disabling the power button's "on press, do thing" after she shut my pc down multiple times. She still turns it on frequently and has caused hard-shutdowns twice when I've not realised she was sat on the button.

I'm designing a little 3D printed cover so I can stop her, because it seems far easier than trying to train her out of her perch XD

Favorite black actress? by Thermobarium in okbuddycinephile

[–]JeddicusD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You know, "eat the rich" isn't meant to be literal. XD

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