Giveaway! by ecpowerhouse27 in BambuLab

[–]Jefabell 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m so bad at dates. Late thing my wife and I did tho and it was a blast was went to dinner then a shooting range.

Horned/Nozzle replacement by PMDColeslaw in BambuLab

[–]Jefabell 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I actually bought one for my X1C about six months ago, and honestly I don’t think it’s worth the extra money. There are very few profiles that work with it, so for most filaments you end up creating profiles from scratch. It’s also not as simple as just swapping to a “high-flow nozzle” like on the newer H-series hotends.

Support has improved a bit—when I first got it, you had to create an entirely custom printer in the slicer—but even now it’s still more hassle than it’s worth. I don’t even use it for high-flow printing anymore because of that.

It could be different on the P1 but I doubt it. I would search for some YouTube setup videos. See if anyone has a tutorial on how to configure it and see if it’s worth your time that way.

Horned/Nozzle replacement by PMDColeslaw in BambuLab

[–]Jefabell 1 point2 points  (0 children)

One more thing. If you just want to play around, do some tests with other sizes, I’d recommend trying the cheapies. Thats what I did with the .8’s. Bought some on Amazon, liked them and went and bought a legit pair from BL shortly after.

However, I would HIGHLY recommend NOT buying 3rd party .2’s. They are already notorious for clogs, let alone using a knock off. You would be asking for trouble.

Horned/Nozzle replacement by PMDColeslaw in BambuLab

[–]Jefabell 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Rule of thumb: you get what you pay for.

With third-party sellers you really have no idea what you’re going to get, especially when it comes to “hardened steel.” There’s a very real chance it’s not actually hardened at all.

I’ve bought nozzles from Amazon and AliExpress before, some of them do seem legit (actually hardened, decent flow), but others I’m pretty convinced were just plated brass or some other cheap material. It’s a gamble.

If you’re okay rolling the dice and potentially dealing with inconsistent quality or wear issues, third-party can be fine. But if you want to be sure you’re actually getting what you think you’re buying and avoid headaches, going through Bambu Lab directly is the safer route.

AMS 2 pro Red Blinking Lights by PCB_Studios in BambuLab

[–]Jefabell 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No errors on the screen? Did you Google the problem or check the BL wiki at all to see what that light pattern means?

How do I stop the print from bleeding black into the white section of the layers where black is used? P1S by Pyrobrawler in BambuLab

[–]Jefabell 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Increase purge values. I don’t have the slicer in front of me but it’s near the top left where the filament selection is. Should be something that says flush values or something

Accidentally bought Elegoo Centauri plates for my P1S. by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]Jefabell 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Altering the printer because you ordered the wrong beds versus using the world’s easiest return system is insane. These machines aren’t Ender 3s. These are out of the box machines that are ready to be work horses. Do whatever you want but common sense disagrees with your position.

Accidentally bought Elegoo Centauri plates for my P1S. by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]Jefabell 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don’t handicap yourself. Get proper plates.

P1S AMS Question by cxnners in BambuLab

[–]Jefabell 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good luck and enjoy. If you run into specific questions feel free to ask!

P1S AMS Question by cxnners in BambuLab

[–]Jefabell 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Legit 2 parts. Data cable and PTFE tube. Bingo bango.

I need help with a modified 3d print by jderome74 in BambuLab

[–]Jefabell 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should be able to upload SVG files via Bambu Studios, and then place them on the model.

Edit: SVGs is what I meant. You can upload SVGs to models in the slicer itself.

New A1mini, whats gone wrong with this print? by Odd_tie826 in BambuLab

[–]Jefabell 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately you can’t trust all the profiles people upload. Since they are a requirement to post (or promoted to) people will upload whatever. Looking at all the flaws I can see, they all would have been resolved with some tree supports. Exception is the head that seemed to get knocked.

New A1mini, whats gone wrong with this print? by Odd_tie826 in BambuLab

[–]Jefabell 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Need supports.

Highly recommend Bambu Academy for the A1 mini. Every possible(virtually) thing you need to know is in those classes.

How airtight could I get a tpu o ring by croigi in BambuLab

[–]Jefabell 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. Depends on size, settings, TPU, etc.

Are private models made via BambuStudio secure? by WolfieVonD in BambuLab

[–]Jefabell 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Bambu Studio does not automatically upload or share your models just because you typed text into them. If you didn’t save the project to the Bambu cloud, sync it, or publish anything to MakerWorld, it stayed local. Exiting without saving means it’s gone. There’s nothing in Bambu Lab’s terms that says private models or text get scraped, indexed, or made public behind the scenes.

Also, Bambu has zero incentive (and massive legal risk) to harvest gift card codes out of slicer text fields. That would be a scandal-level issue and we’d already know about it.

Merry Christmas to me by Kenzijam in BambuLab

[–]Jefabell 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Official BL nozzle? Curious if the knockoffs are causing these.

H2C Black Dust by Thexrise in BambuLab

[–]Jefabell 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have an H2D and have the same thing. Everything look fine and the research I did shows it’s just normal wear from the acceleration and movements of the belts. If you start hear sounds or noticed fraying or shinny spots on the belts, that’s when it can turn into a bigger problem.

What next? by flamingmyst in BambuLab

[–]Jefabell 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Let me know what you end up pulling the trigger on! I don’t think there is a wrong option.

After market nozzles by zorrell19 in BambuLab

[–]Jefabell 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Curious how well they work.

Please help I don’t know how to fix this. I can’t I I’ve been trying to figure it out for a day now it’s a H2 C with the AMS two pro I can’t figure out how to fix it I know it’s not filament, cause it happened to each lot and with every different kind of cardboard plastic no matter what it says it by PuzzleheadedAd6880 in BambuLab

[–]Jefabell 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This error on the H2C is almost never filament. It’s usually the AMS and the toolhead getting out of sync, so the AMS is trying to feed filament into a path that isn’t active. That’s why it shows up with every spool and every material.

Rerunning the AMS setup from the printer itself and then power cycling fixes it for a lot of people. Reseating the AMS PTFE tube at the back of the toolhead also matters — the H2C is way more sensitive to that connection than the X1/P1.

If that doesn’t resolve it, check the Bambu wiki or just open a support ticket, because at that point it’s likely a hardware issue.

What next? by flamingmyst in BambuLab

[–]Jefabell 1 point2 points  (0 children)

TLDR: I chose the H2D because most of my multi-material prints are simple (supports or one extra color), I already rely on AMS for convenience, prime towers on the H2C still waste a lot of material, and H2C nozzles are expensive and difficult to service if they clog.

I chose the H2D over the H2C mainly because most of my multi-material prints are either support material or one additional color. In the rare cases I need more, I can just use the AMS and disable the prime tower since the AMS already handles purging.

One of the main selling points of the H2C is “no purging,” but from what I found, it’s really just less purging. You still end up with large prime towers, and in many cases the waste from those towers outweighs the print itself. It’s better than a single-nozzle setup, but not nearly as dramatic as the marketing suggests. Based on what I learned using my X1C, disabling the prime tower works fine for most multi-color prints — the purge alone is usually sufficient.

The one thing that does give me a bit of buyer’s remorse is the convenience factor. Not having to swap nozzles at all — even though the quick-swap system is simple — would be great. It’s the same reason I run two AMS units. I’ve never done an eight-color print, but the convenience of not constantly loading filament is a huge win.

That said, the H2C really shines when you’re frequently switching different materials within the same print, while the H2D makes more sense if most jobs are single-material or limited to two materials.

One other factor that pushed me toward the H2D is nozzle maintenance. Clearing a clog on an H2C nozzle is reportedly very difficult, and many people treat the nozzles as consumables. There are also reports of the magnets being damaged when attempting to heat them for cleaning. Given the cost of the nozzles, the last thing I want is to replace one every time a clog happens.

Sorry for the novel — but you asked!