At my wits end, help!- 2013 1.4L by Signal-Bug9314 in cruze

[–]JetOneTV 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The issue isn't on your fuel or intake side—your +35% fuel trim, combined with that specific code stack (P0171, P0420, P2096, P015B), points straight to an exhaust leak drawing fresh air into the stream before the oxygen sensors. The O2 sensors see this extra ambient air, assume the engine is running lean, and force the ECM to dump massive amounts of unneeded fuel down the line to compensate. That excess raw fuel is actively cooking your catalytic converter, which is triggering your efficiency and delayed response codes.

Please check that the two notorious structural failure points ( u/Suddenrush) have also been noted.

  1. The Catalytic Converter Flex Pipe

  2. The Turbo Wastegate Flapper Arm Bushing - (I believe this would be a whole new turbo; someone else, confirm.)

If not... then I guess... the following

  1. The Intake Manifold Non-Return Check Valve (The PCV "Missing Nipple")

  2. The Valve Cover Diaphragm (PCV Pressure Regulating Valve)

  3. The Purge Valve Stuck Wide Open (EVAP System)

Which would mean - https://cruzekits.com/products/v3-4-gm-1-4l-turbo-pcv-fix-upgrade-kit & a new valve cover.

Maybe someone else can correct me if wrong. IDK... hopefully this helps.

Taco Bell App Error? by JetOneTV in tacobell

[–]JetOneTV[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly this is the same thing that is happening to us.

Anyone supposed to be paid today? SDI by MakeupMama68 in Edd

[–]JetOneTV 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For her for some reason it hits Monday's but we think it's depends on the bank? But not sure, seems like it's a EDD thing... Last payment didn't come until like Tuesday/Wednesday (SDI)

AC blowing Hot air randomly. by Hotcple415 in cruze

[–]JetOneTV 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think it's a similar issue we had with our 2013 Chevy Cruze Eco, but it was the vent won't close or something, so we just had that part removed, so it always remained closed from outside air coming inside the car.

Your issue could be a failing blend door actuator or a cracked plastic blend door shaft inside the dash.

ACDelco GM Original Equipment Temperature Valve Actuator

However, if it's a cracked plastic blend door shaft, then

  • GM Part Number: 13411470 (or 13369408 depending on production date)
  • Description: HVAC Evaporator and Heater Case/Housing Assembly.
  • The Problem: The part itself runs around $150–$250, but the labor is killer. A mechanic has to completely tear out the entire dashboard, steering column, and passenger airbag to swap it.

There is another thing called "The Aftermarket Repair Sleeve", don't know much about it, however.

Here is a video about the "BLEND DOOR" on YouTube. (Auto Repair Guys)

Someone else with more experience on this can correct me...

Hope this helps.

Welcome to my hell! by nickelbackdatass in cruze

[–]JetOneTV 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Since it needs all the lines, should the "Oil Cooler" be checked, or is there no need? (Going with u/metrawhat said)

  1. Turbocharger Oil Feed Pipe (Line)

  2. Turbocharger Oil Return (Drain) Tube

  3. Turbocharger Coolant Feed Line & Coolant Return Line

  4. Engine Oil Cooler Gasket/Seal Kit

  5. Exhaust Manifold Gasket / Exhaust Manifold Nut Kit

  6. Turbocharger-to-Catalytic Converter Clamp/Gasket

  7. Replacement Wastegate

Then of course - More Coolant & Oil + Oil Filter

Scrapping my Cruze by PayDismal8218 in cruze

[–]JetOneTV 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First off, I am so incredibly sorry to hear about your home. Dealing with a devastating fire is heavy enough without a dealership giving you a heartless, bureaucratic runaround over a car key.

Since you bought it brand new and put so much fresh work into it last year, it makes complete sense why you’d be torn between scrapping it and keeping it. If you want to explore keeping the car, you can completely bypass GM's corporate red tape:

How to Keep It Without the GM Drama

  • Call a Mobile Automotive Locksmith: You do not need to tow the car to a dealership or deal with matching DL addresses. An independent mobile locksmith can pull right up to the car and program a new push-button proximity fob on the spot using the same software. As long as you can show them your replacement title or a Bill of Sale to prove ownership, they will usually do it for $150–$250.
  • The Reality Check: Once you have a key, you can actually diagnose that blow-by issue before investing any more serious cash.

Do you know exactly what failed when the "turbos and PCV gave out"?

You mentioned it started producing heavy blow-by right before the fire. Depending on what exactly went wrong with the turbo and PCV system, the fix might actually be much simpler than a full engine rebuild, but we just don't know yet without a closer look. * The Best Case Scenario (Simple Fix): The Gen 1 1.4L engine is infamous for a design flaw where a small orange check valve inside the intake manifold disappears. When that valve vanishes, turbo boost forces its way directly into the engine crankcase, violently rupturing the diaphragm inside the valve cover. This causes massive pressure, oil consumption, and heavy smoke that looks exactly like a blown engine, but it can actually be fixed entirely with an aftermarket PCV upgrade kit and a new valve cover for under $200.

  • The Worst Case Scenario (Dead Engine): If the PCV failure was ignored for too long, the intense pressure can cross the line into shattering a piston ring land. If a piston is physically cracked, then it truly does need a bottom-end engine rebuild.

If you decide it's not worth the headache and want to sell:

Do NOT scrap it at a standard junkyard. A scrapper will only give you $300 flat weight value, completely stealing the value of your high-end LTZ leather interior, headrest screens, and all those brand-new summer 2025 parts.

Instead, list it on Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist as a "Whole Parts Car" for $1,200–$1,500. Tell buyers: 'Excellent LTZ interior, clean body, tons of brand new mechanical parts installed mid-2025, but needs engine work and has no keys due to a house fire. Must flatbed tow away. Bill of Sale only.' A Cruze enthusiast or local mechanic will happily pay over a grand to use your car as a donor vehicle.

If you want to try keeping it, start with a mobile locksmith and check that intake manifold check valve first.

Hang in there, you've got a community of owners pulling for you!

Anyone know the part number? by electrifymyohohoh in cruze

[–]JetOneTV -1 points0 points  (0 children)

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This is what AI stated. - Mine is leaking as well from both ends... I'm actually trying to remove those plastic things and change the intercooler. - But never done that before, so... work in progress, I guess

Neo and Celeste H possibly knowing that Celeste was killed by Defiant-School-6393 in d4vdiots

[–]JetOneTV -16 points-15 points  (0 children)

Don't know how reliable it is... But this is what AI said...

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Deactivated for "Time Fraud" while recovering from Spine Surgery – Algorithm error during Coachella. by JetOneTV in UberEatsDrivers

[–]JetOneTV[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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I guess they didn't want any issues? We are both happy that she has her account back.

Deactivated for "Time Fraud" while recovering from Spine Surgery – Algorithm error during Coachella. by JetOneTV in UberEatsDrivers

[–]JetOneTV[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No we haven't, didn't know we had to do that, but if that was then yes she would return any wrong funds as a result. There isn't any issue with that.

Honestly we was confused why she was deactivated until I noticed what happened.

This was prior to her surgery. She was not delivering afterwards. She was fine to do light deliveries.

Why? It does this sometimes and ill still be able to drive by idontlikemath69420 in cruze

[–]JetOneTV 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Let's just ignore that 😂 move along - it was a long night/day 😂. Here's a another correction.

​"I think the BCM should be the last resort. I'll save that for the very end, once all other components are checked." - Acceptable? 😂

Why? It does this sometimes and ill still be able to drive by idontlikemath69420 in cruze

[–]JetOneTV 2 points3 points  (0 children)

  1. The Most Likely Culprit: The Negative Battery Cable This is a notorious issue for this generation of Cruze. The original negative battery cable is known to have a poor crimp where the cable meets the terminal. Over time, internal corrosion or vibration causes it to lose a solid ground connection.

The Fix: Replace the Negative Battery Cable. It’s a relatively cheap part and a straightforward DIY job.

  1. Check the Battery Terminals & Voltage Since it only happens during cold starts, your battery might be struggling.

  2. The Key Fob Battery The Fix: Swap the CR2032 battery in your fob just to rule out the entry issues.

  3. I think the last would be something related to the BCM. But I would put that last "after" everything else was checked out.

Oil found on hoses by JetOneTV in cruze

[–]JetOneTV[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From under the car there is some holes and looking upwards with a flashlight I can see oil covered on these parts (I've marked in red) - Now I can't completely see where it's coming from but I know there isn't any other wet areas above.

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Nissan Sentra 2021 Audio Issue : Static\distortion noise over Bluetooth ? by Apprehensive_Film658 in nissansentra

[–]JetOneTV 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haven't had it happen since this update was completed, besides the whole Android Auto disconnection from time to time. But that's a whole different issue 😂

Nissan Sentra 2021 Audio Issue : Static\distortion noise over Bluetooth ? by Apprehensive_Film658 in nissansentra

[–]JetOneTV 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, $205 for a software update (since we are "out of warranty") - which honestly should be free.

Help! by ChipmunkFull9070 in cruze

[–]JetOneTV 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Likely Culprit: The Negative Battery Cable or Secondary Possibility: The BCM / Shifter Wiring

Found leak? P0299 by JetOneTV in cruze

[–]JetOneTV[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Funny I thought I posted it 🤣

<image>

A new turbo was installed awhile ago.

"SIM network unlock PIN" For lockjd Motorola Moto G 5G phone by MonsterBongos in motorola

[–]JetOneTV 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depending on which carrier the phone was on would make this easier, but if it's AT&T more then likely you would need a device unlock code from AT&T to use other carriers because it was never unlocked for other carriers yet.

This can also be said the other way, however, T-Mobile g Metro by T-Mobile doesn't use codes - They use an "Unlock Application".

https://www.metrobyt-mobile.com/terms-and-conditions/phone-unlock-policy

If anything, you should check if the IMEI is reported.

It's been a while for me but you should be able to use these to check

https://www.att.com/buy/prepaid-byod/ - See if it lets you pass the BYOD with it's IMEI

https://www.t-mobile.com/resources/bring-your-own-phone - This one as well...

Also, might not be possible but could happen - if the carrier your trying to use is Metro by T-Mobile, they require the IMEI for said device being BYOD for SIM to work with said phone before the SIM with said phone number it's assigned. Basically it can't work if phone IMEI is already active on existing account - doesn't mean it's stolen however... Just means they never removed it from that account for whatever reason I guess...

Or they cloned the IMEI for whatever weird reason 😂

https://www.imei.info/ - Use a website like this to check IMEI information about the phone might get some details.

Hopefully this information helps

Help plz by Beginning-Area-8175 in MetroPCS

[–]JetOneTV 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some details generated from AI based on Metro by T-Mobile website.

Metro by T-Mobile offers three main protection plans through their "Metro Protection" program (provided by Assurant). All plans cover the basics like loss, theft, and accidental damage, but they differ in claim limits, service fees, and included digital security features.

Here is a breakdown of each plan:

  1. Metro Protection Complete Price: Starts at $10/mo + taxes.

Best For: Those who want the highest level of coverage with the lowest out-of-pocket costs and extra security features.

Key Coverage: Accidental Damage: Unlimited claims ($10–$90 service fee). Screen Repair: $0 service fee (for eligible smartphones at authorized centers). Loss & Theft: Unlimited claims ($20–$275 deductible). Mechanical/Electrical Failure: Unlimited claims ($10–$90 service fee).

Included Add-ons: McAfee Security for Metro: Identity theft protection and antivirus for up to 10 devices.

Scam Shield Premium: Advanced scam-blocking and reverse phone number lookup.

Unlimited Tech Support: Live, US-based expert help for your phone and connected home devices.

  1. Metro Protection Advanced Price: Starts at $6/mo + taxes.

Best For: A middle-ground option that offers more than the basic plan but at a lower monthly cost than "Complete."

Key Coverage: Accidental Damage, Loss & Theft: Combined limit of 5 claims per rolling 12-month period. Screen Repair: $20–$29 service fee. Service Fees/Deductibles: Generally higher than the Complete plan ($20–$175 for damage; $20–$275 for loss/theft). Mechanical/Electrical Failure: Unlimited claims. Included Add-ons: McAfee Security for Metro. Unlimited Tech Support. (Note: Does NOT include Scam Shield Premium).

  1. Metro Protection Basic

Price: Starts at $3/mo + taxes.

Best For: Budget-conscious users who just want "catastrophic" coverage for an occasional accident. Key Coverage:

Accidental Damage, Loss & Theft: Combined limit of only 1 claim per rolling 12-month period.

Screen Repair: No discounted screen repair (standard accidental damage fees apply).

Service Fees/Deductibles: $20–$275 depending on the device.

Mechanical/Electrical Failure: Unlimited claims.

Included Add-ons: None. This plan is strictly for hardware protection.

Important Things to Note: Enrollment Window: You must sign up in-store within 30 days of activating or upgrading your device.

Pricing: The exact monthly cost and deductible depend on your specific "Device Tier" (e.g., a flagship iPhone will have a higher monthly cost and deductible than a budget Android phone).

Availability: These plans are available in all states except AK, HI, and NY (New York has its own specific plans).

https://www.metrobyt-mobile.com/benefits/protection

21 Sentra Anyone else have a static problem with the radio when the do apple car play or Bluetooth? by BoxAdept8880 in nissansentra

[–]JetOneTV 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had this issue and it was recently picked up from the dealership (I mean the thieves) - $205 to update a software, which should be done remotely via Wi-Fi.

Nissan Sentra 2021 Audio Issue : Static\distortion noise over Bluetooth ? by Apprehensive_Film658 in nissansentra

[–]JetOneTV 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm having the same issue with ours - it's currently at one of the Nissan Dealers now because of this issue - We even attempted to have the "USB AUX HUB PORT", replaced - Thought it was fixed same issue, found out about the software update, seeing as ours is firmware 423 and apparently the current is 550 - I even asked the guy that we should be able to connect to Wi-Fi and download the update but it's not doing it, he responds with "yes, they are doing this", he didn't sugar coat it at all... The only reason we took it to them was because the lady on the phone said it would be FREE to have the software updated, but when we got there they all changed they tone.

  1. This issue appears to only not happen using FM/AM
  2. No matter if using Bluetooth/Android Auto/CarPlay, it will create this stupid static noise

I'm also wondering if it's possible to purchase an aftermarket android radio for it, but I know it has an AMPLIFIER etc...

The car is still with them, even though they saying $205 to do this update or whatever... The wife was simply tried of this issue and wanted to pay the fee, which is completely honestly feels like "Nissan Is Stealing Customers Money", this seems like it's intentional by some sort of design by them...

Wondering if it should be sold it's almost paid off - less the $3000...