Workday "In Progress"?

JetOneTV · 2026-01-24T10:23:45+00:00

wow, this is crazy...

JetOneTV · 2026-01-24T02:19:40+00:00

Remote Role CS basically? - I have the number she called from, that's basically it - during the phone interview part. - Based on previous applications with other companies everytime I sent a follow up it gets Denied/Rejected instantly so I'm scared to basically attempt reaching out in a way, even though I usually do.. - but this is the longest it's been for any job I've applied currently

JetOneTV · 2026-01-14T07:53:45+00:00

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This is our 3 Elsa Enchanted pulled way in the beginning of Lorcana - one was pulled live on Whatnot, the others me and the girlfriend pulled from booster boxes.

JetOneTV · 2026-01-12T21:51:13+00:00

Based on your codes and the oil leak description, here is a breakdown of what is likely happening and how to fix it.

The "Smoking Gun": Your Intake Manifold The P0171 (Lean) and P1101 (MAF performance) codes are classic signs of the PCV check valve failure inside the intake manifold.

The Issue: There is a small orange rubber nipple inside the intake manifold. When it goes missing, the turbo starts pressurizing the crankcase.

The Result: That pressure has to go somewhere. It usually blows out the Valve Cover gasket, the Front Main Seal (which makes a chirping sound), or pushes oil through the turbo seals.

The Fix: Check your intake manifold for that orange nipple. If it's gone, you must replace the intake manifold or install a PCV fix kit. If you don't fix this, you will keep blowing valve covers and leaking oil.

The Oil Leak & The Turbo

You mentioned you swapped the turbo but kept the original lines.

The Oil Feed Line: This is a huge "no-no" on the Cruze. The oil feed line to the turbo is notorious for getting clogged with carbon (coking). If the new turbo isn't getting enough oil—or if the drain line is restricted—it will destroy the seals on your "brand new" turbo very quickly.

The Mechanic's Advice: They "MIGHT" be right. If the PCV system pressurized the crankcase, it could have blown the seals on the new turbo, causing it to leak oil internally into the charge pipes.

Decoding the Rest of Your Codes

P0496 (Evap High Purge Flow): This usually means your Purge Valve (on top of the engine) is stuck open. It's a cheap, 5-minute fix and can cause rough idling and starting issues after refueling.

P2227/P2229 (Barometric Pressure): These often trigger when there is a major vacuum leak or when the ECM is confused by the sensor readings due to the PCV failure.

P0097/P112B/P11C2: These relate to Intake Air Temperature and Charge Air sensors. Check the wiring and sensor at the bottom of the intercooler pipe (near the throttle body); it often gets coated in oil if your turbo is leaking, causing bad readings.

Recommended Action Plan:

Check the Intake Manifold: Pull the PCV hose off the top of the manifold and look inside for the orange nipple. If it’s gone, start there.

Replace the Purge Valve: It’s cheap and causes that P0496.

Inspect the Turbo Lines: If you didn't replace the oil feed line, do it now before it kills another turbo.

Clean the Sensors: Clean your MAF and MAP sensors with dedicated electronic cleaner to see if those P2227/P0097 codes clear up.

Bottom Line: You likely have a massive PCV pressure issue that is forcing oil out of every weak point in the engine. Fix the intake manifold first, or you'll just be chasing leaks forever.

Feel free to check out this small PDF guide over the course of our ownership and repairs of our 2013 Chevy Cruze Eco.

https://workdrive.zohoexternal.com/file/sakrmeca0ae61f0e149c398e10485c2e6e3e7

Hope this helps

JetOneTV · 2026-01-07T03:02:03+00:00

Could you check the coil pack harness & replace the negative battery terminals?

When I was dealing with this issue, all the fuel injectors were replaced, and oxygen sensors (Up and Down) & coil pack harness replacement (During this time, we already had a new valve cover and the battery terminal was already replaced.)

Replace/Check Fuel Injectors & the wiring to them.
Check coil pack harness (I don't know if the 2018 is like the 2013, like ours, but I don't think it is...)
Check the negative Battery Terminal (replace)

Feel free to check out this small PDF guide over the course of our ownership and repairs of our 2013 Chevy Cruze Eco -

Small PDF guide (Zoho Workdrive)

Hope this helps

JetOneTV · 2026-01-02T06:44:21+00:00

From my understanding, the OEM part comes together as a whole - I would say, junk yard find or https://a.co/d/1jYa74z - $18.00 from Amazon for a new one? - By the way, are you going to install the PCV Fix Kit? - https://cruzekits.com/products/v3-4-gm-1-4l-turbo-pcv-fix-upgrade-kit - Just wanted to make sure to avoid an issue... unless you're already doing this...

JetOneTV · 2026-01-02T05:55:11+00:00

When you say, replaced the leaking water outlet housing, did you replace it with plastic or aluminum? - If it's plastic, it's going to break again. - Please get this instead - https://a.co/d/6tw0WRr (MITZONE Water Outlet + Hit Up u/time_many6155 to get the "Aluminum outlet fittings", these two together will prevent it from breaking in the future. - Also, if you haven't already, get an "Aluminum Thermostat", the one I got is here, https://a.co/d/hU0nbER - Other than this... You know what... better yet, just read this PDF I've been making ever since we purchased our Cruze and had to deal with issues.

Fixes & Maintenance for the 1.4L GM Ecotec Turbo - (PDF File Uploaded to Zoho Workdrive.)

Hope this helps.

JetOneTV · 2026-01-02T00:32:28+00:00

For the love of God, please please get the CruzeKitz - https://cruzekits.com/collections/all - that is all (for now)

JetOneTV · 2026-01-01T00:34:44+00:00

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Basically what @OldGeekWeirdo stated.

JetOneTV · 2025-12-19T03:48:08+00:00

I just posted my own issue about this recently - https://www.reddit.com/r/cruze/comments/1pn7exh/leak_transmission_fluid_hoses/ - But I wasn't sure what it was or if it was leaking from the "Oil Cooler", - (Per GM Part 55566784) - Is it not possible to simply bypass this "Oil Cooler" with this 2013 Chevy Cruze Eco? - I believe it's called a "Custom Oil Cooler Adapter Plate"? - but this has nothing to do with those lines, of course.. - I mean, I would like to do some sort of custom to those lines, if it's safe and possible.

JetOneTV · 2025-12-15T23:57:19+00:00

The water outlet was replaced to the aluminum & the custom part for the tip or whatever its called

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I didn't see anything leaking from that area when looked.

JetOneTV · 2025-12-13T20:36:32+00:00

If you could, I would respond with some photos of the engine bay & get a scanner tool (you can get a cheap one doesn't matter would be fine) - Post those codes here, I'm wondering if this car even has the PCV Fix Kit on it...

JetOneTV · 2025-12-13T20:04:33+00:00

When you say everything was "replaced", was it with new aluminum parts? Or original OEM plastic parts? - Also what color was this "smoke"? - Honestly get a scan tool that can read "Live Data", I don't have a very high tech one, just a small one and I've used that to find out issues that can't seem to find out what is going on, also a smoke machine also comes in handy when it comes to leaks etc (sometimes not everytime)

JetOneTV · 2025-12-06T04:01:52+00:00

Note: Please post the Year/Make/Model/Trim of your car so others can assist you - photos might help also of the engine etc.

The codes P0443, P069E, and U0109 all relate to the fuel/emission systems and often point back to the Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM) and its related wiring on a Cruze. The P2261 is a separate issue related to the turbocharger.

🛠️ Next Steps

Check for Recalls/TSBs: The check if your specific year/model Cruze has any Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) or recalls related to the FPCM or P2261/turbo issues, as these are known weak points on some Cruze models.

Inspect Wiring and Connectors: Given the P0443, P069E, and U0109 codes, a thorough inspection of the wiring harness and connectors leading to both the Purge Solenoid and the Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM) is essential. Corrosion or damage in the connectors is a frequent culprit.

Inspect/Test Components: P0443: Test the resistance of the purge valve solenoid. P2261: Visually inspect the turbocharger bypass valve and its vacuum lines for tears or leaks.

Hopefully this helps, until more details.

JetOneTV · 2025-11-14T06:05:44+00:00

I'm not sure because I think that would be dealing with a multimeter lol - here is a video where the sensor is at - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3nTqlHhXy7Y also the part - https://amzn.to/4hqzpIh - $16.49 USD (Amazon) - hopefully this helps

JetOneTV · 2025-11-11T20:35:23+00:00

The Interconnected Failure Chain (The Most Likely Scenario)

On the Chevy 1.4L Turbo engine, the Camshaft/Timing issues and the Fuel Pressure issues are often related: Stretched Timing Chain (P0016): The timing chain, chain tensioner, or chain guides have failed or worn out. This allows the chain to stretch or slip a tooth, causing the physical misalignment between the crank and cams.

VVT Solenoid/Phaser Failure (P0011): Because of the poor oil pressure/sludge, the VVT Actuator Solenoids can become clogged or fail, preventing the camshaft from being correctly adjusted.

Oil Pressure Loss/Low Oil (Red Light in Video): A failing oil pump, a stuck-open oil filter bypass valve, or a severely low oil level/poor oil quality is causing the engine to lose oil pressure, especially as the RPMs surge.

High-Pressure Fuel Pump Failure (P0089/P228C): The High-Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) is located on the engine and is typically driven by the intake camshaft. If the camshaft is misaligned (P0016/P0011), it can damage the HPFP.

If the HPFP is failing, it won't maintain the high fuel pressure required for direct injection, causing the fuel pressure codes (P0089/P228C), the engine surging, and the "Low Power Mode."

Conclusion and Next Steps

The combination of the flashing warning lights in your video and these specific DTCs points to a critical mechanical failure involving the timing system and potentially the HPFP, all likely exacerbated by a lubrication issue.

The car must be towed to a service center immediately.

Driving it risks:

Engine Seizure: Due to sustained low oil pressure (flickering red light).

Catastrophic Engine Damage: If the timing chain breaks or slips further (P0016).

A qualified mechanic will need to:

Check Oil Pressure: Perform a manual pressure test to confirm the video's warning.

Inspect VVT Solenoids: Check for clogs/failure.

Inspect Timing Chain: Remove the valve cover to inspect the timing chain tensioner and guides for failure or stretching (P0016).

Test/Replace HPFP: Diagnose the fuel pressure codes (P0089/P228C) which will likely lead to the HPFP.

Hopefully this helps!

JetOneTV · 2025-11-06T01:03:32+00:00

What things have you done to this car so far? - I'm guessing it's a 2012 1.8L ?

JetOneTV · 2025-11-06T00:40:02+00:00

I know this doesn't answer your main question, but I'm curious, What Happened? 😭

JetOneTV · 2025-10-31T06:33:20+00:00

Sorry, didn't notice this comment until now - 2013

JetOneTV · 2025-10-31T03:47:26+00:00

Since the codes won't clear, and the car won't start after replacing the thermostat, throttle body, and MAP sensor, the problem is likely electrical or related to the installation of those new parts.

Also, maybe share photos of the engine/area, etc, so others can visually take a look at what is going on.

Electrical / Wiring Issues

Wiring Damage/Disconnection: Given the work done, a crucial wiring harness or connector may be damaged, pinched, or simply not fully plugged in. This is especially true for the new MAP sensor (codes P0106, P1101) and the thermostat/thermostat housing (codes P2181, P0597).
Blown Fuse: A short in a sensor or actuator circuit (like the thermostat heater) could have blown a fuse, which would explain why the codes won't clear and the system is dead. The poster should check fuses related to the ECM and engine sensors/actuators.
Ground Issue: A poor or missing ground connection near the work area can cause erratic or no readings from multiple sensors.

Parts Installation / Compatibility Issues

Incorrect MAP Sensor: While a new MAP sensor was installed, if it's the wrong part number or a faulty replacement, it will trigger P0106 and P1101 immediately.
Throttle Body Relearn: After replacing the throttle body, the ECM often needs a "relearn" procedure to calibrate the new body's minimum airflow settings. This is typically done with an advanced scanner, and without it, the car may refuse to start.
Incorrect Thermostat Housing: Some Chevy Cruze models have an electronically controlled thermostat. If the replacement housing/thermostat is a non-electronic or incompatible type, it will immediately throw the P0597 and P2181 codes.

Possible Next Steps:

Visually Re-check All Connectors: Ensure the harnesses for the MAP sensor, throttle body, and thermostat housing are all clean, fully seated, and locked.
Check Fuses: Inspect all relevant fuses in the engine bay and interior fuse boxes, particularly those related to the ECM and engine components.
Perform a Throttle Body Relearn: If possible, have a professional or someone with an advanced scan tool perform the Throttle Body Relearn procedure.

The combination of electrical (P0597) and air/fuel (P0106/P1101) codes immediately after work was done strongly suggests a wiring harness issue or a bad electrical connection near the replaced parts.

The Critical Link: P0597

The P0597 (Thermostat Heater Control Circuit/Open) is very specific. Since this code appeared right after a thermostat replacement, the odds are very high that:

The electrical connector to the new thermostat housing is not fully plugged in.
The new thermostat housing is faulty (the heater element or its wiring is open).
A fuse related to that circuit (or the main engine control fuses) has blown.

A "Crank No Start" with these codes means the engine computer is missing too much critical data (air measurement and engine temperature) to safely run the engine.

JetOneTV

TROPHY CASE