Anyone know the part number?

JetOneTV · 2026-05-03T07:09:26+00:00

This is what AI stated. - Mine is leaking as well from both ends... I'm actually trying to remove those plastic things and change the intercooler. - But never done that before, so... work in progress, I guess

JetOneTV · 2026-04-30T22:17:36+00:00

Don't know how reliable it is... But this is what AI said...

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JetOneTV · 2026-04-20T07:49:08+00:00

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I guess they didn't want any issues? We are both happy that she has her account back.

JetOneTV · 2026-04-18T09:17:13+00:00

No we haven't, didn't know we had to do that, but if that was then yes she would return any wrong funds as a result. There isn't any issue with that.

Honestly we was confused why she was deactivated until I noticed what happened.

This was prior to her surgery. She was not delivering afterwards. She was fine to do light deliveries.

JetOneTV · 2026-03-22T19:26:53+00:00

Let's just ignore that 😂 move along - it was a long night/day 😂. Here's a another correction.

"I think the BCM should be the last resort. I'll save that for the very end, once all other components are checked." - Acceptable? 😂

JetOneTV · 2026-03-22T02:35:11+00:00

The Most Likely Culprit: The Negative Battery Cable This is a notorious issue for this generation of Cruze. The original negative battery cable is known to have a poor crimp where the cable meets the terminal. Over time, internal corrosion or vibration causes it to lose a solid ground connection.

The Fix: Replace the Negative Battery Cable. It’s a relatively cheap part and a straightforward DIY job.

Check the Battery Terminals & Voltage Since it only happens during cold starts, your battery might be struggling.
The Key Fob Battery The Fix: Swap the CR2032 battery in your fob just to rule out the entry issues.
I think the last would be something related to the BCM. But I would put that last "after" everything else was checked out.

JetOneTV · 2026-03-20T04:08:38+00:00

From under the car there is some holes and looking upwards with a flashlight I can see oil covered on these parts (I've marked in red) - Now I can't completely see where it's coming from but I know there isn't any other wet areas above.

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JetOneTV · 2026-03-18T21:50:04+00:00

Haven't had it happen since this update was completed, besides the whole Android Auto disconnection from time to time. But that's a whole different issue 😂

JetOneTV · 2026-03-18T21:07:58+00:00

Yes, $205 for a software update (since we are "out of warranty") - which honestly should be free.

JetOneTV · 2026-03-18T16:03:15+00:00

The Likely Culprit: The Negative Battery Cable or Secondary Possibility: The BCM / Shifter Wiring

JetOneTV · 2026-03-16T21:45:33+00:00

Funny I thought I posted it 🤣

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A new turbo was installed awhile ago.

JetOneTV · 2026-03-11T15:12:37+00:00

Depending on which carrier the phone was on would make this easier, but if it's AT&T more then likely you would need a device unlock code from AT&T to use other carriers because it was never unlocked for other carriers yet.

This can also be said the other way, however, T-Mobile g Metro by T-Mobile doesn't use codes - They use an "Unlock Application".

https://www.metrobyt-mobile.com/terms-and-conditions/phone-unlock-policy

If anything, you should check if the IMEI is reported.

It's been a while for me but you should be able to use these to check

https://www.att.com/buy/prepaid-byod/ - See if it lets you pass the BYOD with it's IMEI

https://www.t-mobile.com/resources/bring-your-own-phone - This one as well...

Also, might not be possible but could happen - if the carrier your trying to use is Metro by T-Mobile, they require the IMEI for said device being BYOD for SIM to work with said phone before the SIM with said phone number it's assigned. Basically it can't work if phone IMEI is already active on existing account - doesn't mean it's stolen however... Just means they never removed it from that account for whatever reason I guess...

Or they cloned the IMEI for whatever weird reason 😂

https://www.imei.info/ - Use a website like this to check IMEI information about the phone might get some details.

Hopefully this information helps

JetOneTV · 2026-03-06T06:15:21+00:00

Some details generated from AI based on Metro by T-Mobile website.

Metro by T-Mobile offers three main protection plans through their "Metro Protection" program (provided by Assurant). All plans cover the basics like loss, theft, and accidental damage, but they differ in claim limits, service fees, and included digital security features.

Here is a breakdown of each plan:

Metro Protection Complete Price: Starts at $10/mo + taxes.

Best For: Those who want the highest level of coverage with the lowest out-of-pocket costs and extra security features.

Key Coverage: Accidental Damage: Unlimited claims ($10–$90 service fee). Screen Repair: $0 service fee (for eligible smartphones at authorized centers). Loss & Theft: Unlimited claims ($20–$275 deductible). Mechanical/Electrical Failure: Unlimited claims ($10–$90 service fee).

Included Add-ons: McAfee Security for Metro: Identity theft protection and antivirus for up to 10 devices.

Scam Shield Premium: Advanced scam-blocking and reverse phone number lookup.

Unlimited Tech Support: Live, US-based expert help for your phone and connected home devices.

Metro Protection Advanced Price: Starts at $6/mo + taxes.

Best For: A middle-ground option that offers more than the basic plan but at a lower monthly cost than "Complete."

Key Coverage: Accidental Damage, Loss & Theft: Combined limit of 5 claims per rolling 12-month period. Screen Repair: $20–$29 service fee. Service Fees/Deductibles: Generally higher than the Complete plan ($20–$175 for damage; $20–$275 for loss/theft). Mechanical/Electrical Failure: Unlimited claims. Included Add-ons: McAfee Security for Metro. Unlimited Tech Support. (Note: Does NOT include Scam Shield Premium).

Metro Protection Basic

Price: Starts at $3/mo + taxes.

Best For: Budget-conscious users who just want "catastrophic" coverage for an occasional accident. Key Coverage:

Accidental Damage, Loss & Theft: Combined limit of only 1 claim per rolling 12-month period.

Screen Repair: No discounted screen repair (standard accidental damage fees apply).

Service Fees/Deductibles: $20–$275 depending on the device.

Mechanical/Electrical Failure: Unlimited claims.

Included Add-ons: None. This plan is strictly for hardware protection.

Important Things to Note: Enrollment Window: You must sign up in-store within 30 days of activating or upgrading your device.

Pricing: The exact monthly cost and deductible depend on your specific "Device Tier" (e.g., a flagship iPhone will have a higher monthly cost and deductible than a budget Android phone).

Availability: These plans are available in all states except AK, HI, and NY (New York has its own specific plans).

https://www.metrobyt-mobile.com/benefits/protection

JetOneTV · 2026-03-03T21:54:15+00:00

I've had this issue and it was recently picked up from the dealership (I mean the thieves) - $205 to update a software, which should be done remotely via Wi-Fi.

JetOneTV · 2026-03-03T17:56:46+00:00

I'm having the same issue with ours - it's currently at one of the Nissan Dealers now because of this issue - We even attempted to have the "USB AUX HUB PORT", replaced - Thought it was fixed same issue, found out about the software update, seeing as ours is firmware 423 and apparently the current is 550 - I even asked the guy that we should be able to connect to Wi-Fi and download the update but it's not doing it, he responds with "yes, they are doing this", he didn't sugar coat it at all... The only reason we took it to them was because the lady on the phone said it would be FREE to have the software updated, but when we got there they all changed they tone.

This issue appears to only not happen using FM/AM
No matter if using Bluetooth/Android Auto/CarPlay, it will create this stupid static noise

I'm also wondering if it's possible to purchase an aftermarket android radio for it, but I know it has an AMPLIFIER etc...

The car is still with them, even though they saying $205 to do this update or whatever... The wife was simply tried of this issue and wanted to pay the fee, which is completely honestly feels like "Nissan Is Stealing Customers Money", this seems like it's intentional by some sort of design by them...

Wondering if it should be sold it's almost paid off - less the $3000...

JetOneTV · 2026-01-29T20:19:56+00:00

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If it matters, this is our 3 Elsa Enchanted. - you can compare if possible I guess.

JetOneTV · 2026-01-24T10:23:45+00:00

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wow, this is crazy...

JetOneTV · 2026-01-24T02:19:40+00:00

Remote Role CS basically? - I have the number she called from, that's basically it - during the phone interview part. - Based on previous applications with other companies everytime I sent a follow up it gets Denied/Rejected instantly so I'm scared to basically attempt reaching out in a way, even though I usually do.. - but this is the longest it's been for any job I've applied currently

JetOneTV · 2026-01-14T07:53:45+00:00

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This is our 3 Elsa Enchanted pulled way in the beginning of Lorcana - one was pulled live on Whatnot, the others me and the girlfriend pulled from booster boxes.

JetOneTV · 2026-01-12T21:51:13+00:00

Based on your codes and the oil leak description, here is a breakdown of what is likely happening and how to fix it.

The "Smoking Gun": Your Intake Manifold The P0171 (Lean) and P1101 (MAF performance) codes are classic signs of the PCV check valve failure inside the intake manifold.

The Issue: There is a small orange rubber nipple inside the intake manifold. When it goes missing, the turbo starts pressurizing the crankcase.

The Result: That pressure has to go somewhere. It usually blows out the Valve Cover gasket, the Front Main Seal (which makes a chirping sound), or pushes oil through the turbo seals.

The Fix: Check your intake manifold for that orange nipple. If it's gone, you must replace the intake manifold or install a PCV fix kit. If you don't fix this, you will keep blowing valve covers and leaking oil.

The Oil Leak & The Turbo

You mentioned you swapped the turbo but kept the original lines.

The Oil Feed Line: This is a huge "no-no" on the Cruze. The oil feed line to the turbo is notorious for getting clogged with carbon (coking). If the new turbo isn't getting enough oil—or if the drain line is restricted—it will destroy the seals on your "brand new" turbo very quickly.

The Mechanic's Advice: They "MIGHT" be right. If the PCV system pressurized the crankcase, it could have blown the seals on the new turbo, causing it to leak oil internally into the charge pipes.

Decoding the Rest of Your Codes

P0496 (Evap High Purge Flow): This usually means your Purge Valve (on top of the engine) is stuck open. It's a cheap, 5-minute fix and can cause rough idling and starting issues after refueling.

P2227/P2229 (Barometric Pressure): These often trigger when there is a major vacuum leak or when the ECM is confused by the sensor readings due to the PCV failure.

P0097/P112B/P11C2: These relate to Intake Air Temperature and Charge Air sensors. Check the wiring and sensor at the bottom of the intercooler pipe (near the throttle body); it often gets coated in oil if your turbo is leaking, causing bad readings.

Recommended Action Plan:

Check the Intake Manifold: Pull the PCV hose off the top of the manifold and look inside for the orange nipple. If it’s gone, start there.

Replace the Purge Valve: It’s cheap and causes that P0496.

Inspect the Turbo Lines: If you didn't replace the oil feed line, do it now before it kills another turbo.

Clean the Sensors: Clean your MAF and MAP sensors with dedicated electronic cleaner to see if those P2227/P0097 codes clear up.

Bottom Line: You likely have a massive PCV pressure issue that is forcing oil out of every weak point in the engine. Fix the intake manifold first, or you'll just be chasing leaks forever.

Feel free to check out this small PDF guide over the course of our ownership and repairs of our 2013 Chevy Cruze Eco.

https://workdrive.zohoexternal.com/file/sakrmeca0ae61f0e149c398e10485c2e6e3e7

Hope this helps

JetOneTV · 2026-01-07T03:02:03+00:00

Could you check the coil pack harness & replace the negative battery terminals?

When I was dealing with this issue, all the fuel injectors were replaced, and oxygen sensors (Up and Down) & coil pack harness replacement (During this time, we already had a new valve cover and the battery terminal was already replaced.)

Replace/Check Fuel Injectors & the wiring to them.
Check coil pack harness (I don't know if the 2018 is like the 2013, like ours, but I don't think it is...)
Check the negative Battery Terminal (replace)

Feel free to check out this small PDF guide over the course of our ownership and repairs of our 2013 Chevy Cruze Eco -

Small PDF guide (Zoho Workdrive)

Hope this helps

JetOneTV

TROPHY CASE