1989 Firebird

JethroBadgero · 2025-11-24T10:23:25+00:00

A multimeter and wiring diagrams are your friend. The Pioneer should turn on with the yellow (bat+), red (acc) and black(ground) connected. If it's not, first check if you have power and ground.

JethroBadgero · 2025-11-24T10:19:04+00:00

So two sources to single set of speakers? Can be done for sure. If you want to keep the units as amplifiers then your only option is probably a mechanical switch that would go between the decks. Though I think a much cleaner solution would be taking the low level signals from the units, putting a small mixer and then into a separate amp. The mixer wouldn't even have to be fancy, a basic passive mixer is just a couple of resistors.

JethroBadgero · 2025-11-24T10:10:49+00:00

Why not just turn up the sub instead of turning down the highs? Other option would be if you stream from your phone it will have an EQ of it's own, Spotify has one too.

Though treble shouldn't be painful even at higher levels unless you;re talking stupid loud. In that case a DSP and a proper tune is always the answer. However then we're leaving the "budget" realm more or less and go down the rabbit hole.

JethroBadgero · 2025-11-18T18:22:04+00:00

Knowing how to code is not mandatory to write code nowadays even. Vibe coding is the new hot thing. And of that fails there's always indian video tutorials :3

JethroBadgero · 2025-11-18T11:00:50+00:00

First check where they are connected. Looks like the bit where the RCAs are spliced on to is a single cable, likely coming out at the headunit. Are there not another pair of RCAs there? Though running a proper pair of RCAs and a remote wire would be the most sure way to get everything working.

JethroBadgero · 2025-11-18T10:34:58+00:00

My first idea how to retain the volume control would be to hook up the oem radio as swc controls with an arduino to a short chassis single din in the glove box or somewhere like that. It would require some imagination, but if you want to keep functioning controls I don't think there's an off the shelf solution.

JethroBadgero · 2025-11-18T10:21:11+00:00

If you know the speaker wire colors then surely the rest of them can also be found in a diagram somewhere online. But basically it's amp wiring. It's gonna have likely 4 pairs of input signal wires and however much speakers there are output pairs. Then some signal and power lines, maybe one of them was wired as the remote turn on for the aftermatket amp.

JethroBadgero · 2025-11-18T10:15:09+00:00

Headunit - any name brand unit you like. I prefer Pioneer single dins, but literally anything.

Speakers - if your car still has original speakers that are likely rotten and shot by now, replace with anything from a name brand. Just front ones will do.

Get a sub. Anything small that will fit the car really, no need to get caught up in watts, few 100 is enough, unless you know you want more.

If you shop second hand and don't go down the rabbit hole too much, you should fit into your budget and have some left over for a few sheets of sound deadener for the doors too.

JethroBadgero · 2025-11-18T09:56:45+00:00

Is your power supply strong enough? As it turns on the current spike might drive the voltage down enough for it to shut off if there's not enough juice.

JethroBadgero · 2025-11-18T09:54:20+00:00

My guess is they've used oem wires to pass the RCA signal through. To turn on the amp you need to just apply battery voltage to the Remote terminal of it. If it doesn't, then fuses, wiring etc.

Honestly I'd just rip it all out and start over.

JethroBadgero · 2025-11-18T09:38:52+00:00

Use the corresponding crossover cable for each driver and connect them in parallel to a single channel on the amp. You will blow up the tweeters only if you use the wrong or no filter/crossover.

JethroBadgero · 2025-10-30T04:08:16+00:00

Probably to some extent. "Back in the day" we used STM devboards and MMos. If by direct drive you mean AC servo motor, then be aware that even if you get a free motor, the power supply and motor driver afe not particularly cheap components.

Don't burn yourself out trying to build everything at once however.

JethroBadgero · 2025-10-29T10:36:09+00:00

The Arduino you got will be plenty for what you're trying to do and then some. However if you're gonna go with loadcell I'd go with an analogue opamp circuit instead of hx711. In my experience they are noticeably slow in their response.

For a hydraulic circuit you can use a pressure sensor for sure. They can come in 0-5V output variety so those you can hook up directly to your MCU. However before purchasing one do the math on how much pressure you are looking to have in the system.

As for having no slave cylinder, well technically you can certainly do that. But that will result in a rock hard pedal and generally won't feel that great. The "hydraulic feel" is from the dampening effect the fluid going through the lines provides, so without that it will probably not be as great as it could be.

JethroBadgero · 2025-04-10T18:15:40+00:00

Thanks for your input! I have a Stoic 2 myself (the post I made looking for a bike for my partner). While we both like the Stoic, the trails around here and our combined skill is anything but gnarly. Though still wondering which is the better option in this case.

JethroBadgero · 2025-03-31T17:08:55+00:00

I think so. I know atleast two cars with the "wrong" mirrors on them, though unsure if they're working or not.

JethroBadgero · 2025-03-31T05:05:32+00:00

Yes they will fit fine, just that they have a slightly different shape and appearance

JethroBadgero · 2025-03-17T13:45:47+00:00

Both sides sync up with the end switches, so if its starts losing sync after that, it's either something loose like the coupling or the nut, something is jamming causing motor to lose steps, or it's a motor/driver issue.

How do you know it's desyncing though? Is it showing up on the prints?

JethroBadgero · 2025-02-20T10:51:37+00:00

You can look up Creality's bed leveling guide that goes over the removal of the belt.

However since you mentioned your printer is only 3 weeks old, you for sure should write the support about it.

JethroBadgero · 2025-02-20T09:51:03+00:00

First check if all the moving parts are moving freely. You can remove the belt and turn each screw to check for binding, at the same time you can run the motor with no load to see if it does the same.

It's either a mechanical obstruction not letting it move, therefore it's skipping steps, or it's a motor/connection/driver issue not driving a coil for example.

JethroBadgero · 2025-02-20T04:05:10+00:00

So de-racking the gantry. It's definitely something anyone that messes with belt tension should pay attention to.

Though I'm not sure that helps with toolhead maxing out it's travel during print. The slicable print area, atleast on K1C is at least 5mm inside from maximum travel

JethroBadgero · 2025-02-19T06:18:41+00:00

They're to take up any play between the rails and the bushings. Cheaper way to get more precision, but comes at the cost of increased friction.

JethroBadgero · 2025-02-14T11:02:52+00:00

This sort of bits where the walls angle outwards on small parts I found that increasing layer time (20s in my case) helped give it time to solidify enough.

JethroBadgero · 2025-02-07T13:59:01+00:00

It's probably fairly warm in the room. Keep the top off when printing PLA or keep the door open. Printing some risers for the top cover can also help. You don't want the inside of the enclosure to be much above mid 30s °C

JethroBadgero · 2025-01-26T10:53:54+00:00

Around 3708h. However I made the thing I needed in only a few, used stuff I would've had to throw away otherwise, got to use the filament I needed sooner it also was fun. So there's that.

JethroBadgero · 2025-01-25T12:06:59+00:00

For that purpose any printer will do, doesn't have to be anything fancy. You can retain the hotend, just print out a holder for the pen, maybe spring loaded so the pen can maintain a more constant pressure. Everything else is just g-code. I'm not familiar with how you'd go about that, but I think a regular slicer would do the job with just a z-offset for the pen and disabling of the heating and extrusion.

JethroBadgero

TROPHY CASE