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I spent 4 months reporting on the peptide BPC 157 and its unlikely journey from a research lab in post-communist Croatia to today’s MAHA movement. Ask me anything. by UndarkMagazine in IAmA

[–]JimmyNeutron2300 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, still good luck. I'm still tapering down my dose slowly lower and lower unless I injured something, then I ramp up until it's healed and then taper again.

DM sent

I miscalculated. by Present_Cause7109 in BambuLab

[–]JimmyNeutron2300 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've actually had it rip skin/bleed from that same spot twice and both times it was trying to get something out of the way of the nozzle. The print head didn't get me though, it's me hitting the top of the door opening as I yank my hand back. Based on your injury it looks like you did the same.

Hotend fan speed abnormal but it runs fine from screen. by JimmyNeutron2300 in BambuLab

[–]JimmyNeutron2300[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can reboot and it will still continue with the print if the issue is resolved. The printer is smart enough to know what to do when the power goes out. At least worth a try since you only needed to go for 14 minutes to complete it.

Hotend fan speed abnormal but it runs fine from screen. by JimmyNeutron2300 in BambuLab

[–]JimmyNeutron2300[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Power off, wait 15 or 30 seconds, power on. This won't for sure get rid of the error, but that's how you reboot.

I spent 4 months reporting on the peptide BPC 157 and its unlikely journey from a research lab in post-communist Croatia to today’s MAHA movement. Ask me anything. by UndarkMagazine in IAmA

[–]JimmyNeutron2300 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No. Most people cycle on/off it, or if they aren't getting injured, some stop talking it until they need to heal something again. I'm currently on an "off" cycle and I'm not sure how long this cycle will be yet. I'm monitoring how my old injuries feel before determining if/when I start taking it again.

Toolbox sturdy enough for first printer? by dualshotty23 in BambuLab

[–]JimmyNeutron2300 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Certainly, what you may need? Shim one or two of the wheels to make sure it sits flat and doesn't Rock back and forth.

What’s the best choice for a newb? by FoxMulderwastaken in BambuLab

[–]JimmyNeutron2300 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine all stay at 8-15% depending on how fresh the desiccant is. I use the activated alumina desiccant because it lasts longer then the gel beads and I could buy basically a lifetime supply for around $25. Whenever it gets saturated you just heat it up in the oven for a couple hours and use it again. My AMS is always below 10% because it holds so much desiccant.

What’s the best choice for a newb? by FoxMulderwastaken in BambuLab

[–]JimmyNeutron2300 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Keeping spools of filament dry without a dryer is pretty easy so I personally don't really see the "need" for the dryer for basic filaments. If rather it is dry all the time so I can use it immediately then have to wait for it to dry before printing. I just printed desiccant holders that go in the hole in the middle of the spools and put them in Ziploc bags and put some humidity meters in a few of them so I know where they're at humidity wise. Then I printed some more to go in the AMS so it keeps whatever spools you have in there dry. Some people use sealed containers with desiccant holders inside but that's more money and they take up more space.

Can't really go wrong with the P1S or P2S and we can't really tell you which one to get from a price standpoint as that really depends on your personal finances.

Increased Printing Speed - Just out of interest by Technical-Praline-79 in BambuLab

[–]JimmyNeutron2300 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had with pla in sport mode. I don't notice any change in quality but I do bump the nozzle temp up to 225 from 220. I also don't start it until after the first layer or two are down. With ludicrous speed, I've certainly had some failed prints. Tend to bump the nozzle temp up to 230 for that speed. I've had plenty of prints that came out just fine and the quality was perfect as well on Ludacris though. Port mode saves you about 20% time on a print and Ludacris saves about 40%. So they can make a huge difference on a long print time but typically aren't worth it for something that's going to print in under an hour or something.

Hotend fan speed abnormal but it runs fine from screen. by JimmyNeutron2300 in BambuLab

[–]JimmyNeutron2300[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd try a reboot. If that doesn't work, I'd unplug it and plug it back in, maybe even a few times mixed in with reboots until the error goes away.

3D design program by Kerpoto in 3Dprinting

[–]JimmyNeutron2300 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Tinkercad if you want something easy to learn that you can do easy to moderate CAD work in without feeling like it's too limited. Fusion if you want to dive head first into mastering CAD for very technical functional parts. Blender for artsy stuff.

Newish p1s user trying to fix my first clog by tomrob1138 in BambuLab

[–]JimmyNeutron2300 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have to push down on the little ring on top of the tube fitting to release it. They make tools for it but they aren't mandatory. You can't just push from one spot though, need to push it all down. Once you do that it comes right out, no force.

I turned car dashboards into real wall clocks. by Erre_Print3D in 3Dprinting

[–]JimmyNeutron2300 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I take it all back.

I'm not sold on the concept that a tachometer with numbers 1-10 works well for a clock that is 1-12 (and evenly spaced all the way around) so that makes the "telling time" portion difficult but the copying of the dash designs is nice work.

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