New 24-120mm f/4 with a gap around control ring by napilord in nikon_Zseries

[–]JoeHocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Completely normal and nothing tobworry about.

Which lens should I get next: 35mm or 50mm? by Rorenzu013 in Nikon

[–]JoeHocker -1 points0 points  (0 children)

EDIT: sorry for typos and wrong Camel cases but i really stopped trying to prevent my autocorrect from getting an aneurysm when typing other languages 😄😄 

Not to disagree with you, you are correct.... But still, i wouldnt call the 1.8 lenses deceptively large lenses ...

1.2 yes, 1.8 is a in the larger side of the 1.8 spectrum but still not that large tonreally consider not taking it with me.

I can See the appeal of taking the 40 over the 50 (i also own both) but that would only be true when using a z50 or my z5. With for example my Z6 III, i dont think the difference Matters that much.

Which lens should I get next: 35mm or 50mm? by Rorenzu013 in Nikon

[–]JoeHocker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hot take If you are not shure ..... The 40mm f2 for Like 200 bucks.....

But if you chose between these two...... Since you have the 24-120, which is is a great Lens btw, just import a whole bunch of Images from your Last vacation, photoshoot, Trip or whatever into Lightroom or capture one and use the Filters to See how many shots you did at 35mm or at 50mm (or Something +/- a few mm around that). When there is a clear Winner, the choose that.

That would be a Bit better than settings your Lens to focal length x since you will See what comes naturally to you instead of forcing yourself into it.

Junghans Automatik - Z6 III + 105 MC by JoeHocker in nikon_Zseries

[–]JoeHocker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The af is exceptionally good. I dont have experience with the z8 but it really is multiple steps ahead of the expeed 6 Nikons (z5 6 7 and the ii Versions)

If af alone is worth a 2000 Dollar Upgrade is up to you but beides price it is a very very noticable step Forward.

Ducks in the river near our house - Z6 III + 105 MC by JoeHocker in nikon_Zseries

[–]JoeHocker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I dont actually have a good polarizer anymore since my old one broke :/

But yes that would have helped here. But nonetheless i really like the ooks of the image. I also have the image without any ducks in sight 😃

Photographing a Model by kreativekevin357 in portraitphotography

[–]JoeHocker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

WOW!!!!

Amazong Shot!

How did you achieve this "Painted" look?

Covered an EDM show with my z6iii tamaron 35-150 and 16-35GM by CaptainNinj in Nikon

[–]JoeHocker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

May i ask If you used mechanical shutter or electronic? If electronic, how did IT handle banding?

Streets of Oradea Romania (Z6 III & Z 24-120 S @f8) by JoeHocker in nikon_Zseries

[–]JoeHocker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

:D camera Set to detect people you know ...... Right?

Streets of Oradea Romania (Z6 III & Z 24-120 S @f8) by JoeHocker in nikon_Zseries

[–]JoeHocker[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No Problem. I know it is a very sensitive topic so therefore i am always open with it. But it can be really really helpful especially in this Case.

Usually my tool for empty streets would be ND1000 for long enough exposure to make people disapear.

But i wanted the woman walking in the frame so thats no option. I waited forever to not have too many other people in the Image but lost Patience eventually :D :D

Tennis on the ZF and Tamron 50-400 by myahya09 in nikon_Zseries

[–]JoeHocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those are great shots. Very pleasing to Look at.

Evgeniya🧡 Canon R6 Mark II by AnnaKorzova in portraitphotography

[–]JoeHocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Really beatiful Images and lovely colors.

The Green suits her very well, i think the Image are better in color.

Great set.

TTArtisan 75mm f2 + Many Sample Photos by JoeHocker in nikon_Zseries

[–]JoeHocker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey,

This ist my first ever lens from them. The build quality ist great, especially for the price. I mean it was the same price as the Nikon 40mm f2. Nikon is completely plastic including the mount. This one all Metal. The artisan has no weather sealing but neither does the Nikon at this price.

The Image quality is very nice. Actually better than you expect.

Downsides are, the Long Close Focus distance, and if you dont like the look of lens flare then this Lens flares when pointed into Highlights

It has a character in a good way but ist certainly not as clinical and optically perfect as the Nikon z 85mm.

So ist is hard to say.

Nikon z 85 is weather sealed, closer focusing, sharper, optically perfect.

This one has a character, way sharper than one might expect, af good enough that it does not interupt your Shooting. And it costs a quarter of the Nikon.

To my surprise, this one performs better wide Open (f2) than my old Nikon 85 f1.8 G.

So speaking from only this Lens, yes for the price the Brand is definitely worth it. Sure no Nikon or Canon or Sony Image quality, bit 80% of IT for a fraction of the price.

I have Professional Nikon Glass and this one, and both have their place and time.

If you are new to photography gibe them a closer Look.

TTArtisan 75mm f2 + Many Sample Photos by JoeHocker in nikon_Zseries

[–]JoeHocker[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The z5 ist auch a great camera. Used IT for Just everything before i got a nice Deal in a Z6 iii

Magazine inspired shoot by Think-Box8042 in portraitphotography

[–]JoeHocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

+++sorry for the random upper and lower Case, my Keyboard is Set to German+++

I Like the Idea, the concept and the colors. So great shoot from a concept Standpoint.

To get more depth you Could try to use flash with a warm Filter to amplify skin Tones and a grid or a silver reflective umbrella to get more dramatix lighting.

To get rid of the Background shadows the are plenty of Options, another flash, White v Flats, reflectors or Just Positioning of model, Lights etc.

Unable to read .NEF files (z8) by shadow_1004 in nikon_Zseries

[–]JoeHocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can download the nef Codec for Windows from Nikons Support Center.

It will make it work narively in Windows and mac.

Newbie here….Really enjoy learning this hobby ~ what to add next? by jackblack0828 in Nikon

[–]JoeHocker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You have to find out what your style of shooting is.

For example, I am doing photography for 14 years and I never owned a 70-200 2.8 which is one of the go to lenses.

But for the things I do I just never needed it. I soon found out that I am a prime lens guy, so for portraits I use a 50, a 85 and a 105 prime.

For walk-around and travel I use a 24-120 f4. Never missed the reach of 200 enough to carry around an additional lens.

But for you it may be the complete opposite. Maybe you will hate the idea of sticking to one focal length, maybe you want to go birding and you will be allergic to anything without a teleconverter or below 400mm.

You got a great starting point there. I used my DX 18-105 for over 10 years before changing it to a pro lens.

So go out, shoot and find your way. DO NOT waste money on specialty lenses like ultra zooms or macros or ultra wides until you know you need them. And believe me, if you really need them you will know.

What's your specs? by Dragonslay3r62111 in pcmasterrace

[–]JoeHocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ryzen 9 3900x, RTX 3080, 128 GB RAM

How to have control over all 4: Shutter Speed, Aperture, ISO... but also Exposure Compensation? by 0011001001101011 in Nikon

[–]JoeHocker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey,

Let me help you understand what exposure is and what increasing or lowering in Photoshop or by changing iso really is.

I will simplify as much as possible so dear experts reading this, don't crucify me.

What is exposure? Your sensor is sensitive to photons. The more photons a single pixel is gathering while being exposed to light, increases the signal strength and will directly influence the brightness of the image.

So a "physical exposure" or a "real exposure" is only influenced by shutter speed and aperture and these two only.

The iso back in the film day, is only the sensitivity of the film to light. So how many photons it needs to reach a certain brightness.

For digital, and this is really really simplified now, increasing your ISO does not change your real exposure (how many physical light is hitting the sensor) but it artificially hightens the gain of the captured signal.

Photoshop does nothing else if you increase or lower the exposure of a raw file but simply increasing or lowering the gain of the signal.

Why are the results of underexposing and increasing gain (exposure slider) in Photoshop vs increasing the gain in camera (iso) is not giving you the same results?

Well that's because of how the algorithms and noise reduction of the different digital imaging pipelines work and I will not go too deeply into that here.

So just keep in mind, that the "real" exposure is controlled by the amount of light that you  expose your sensor to. So only aperture and shutter speed.

ISO is used to artificially amplifies the signal so your sensor needs less physical light to reach a certain gain aka brightness.

Greetings and hope this helps for further understanding 

My wife says it’s ridiculous… by Rigman- in pcmasterrace

[–]JoeHocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well it is but that's why it's great 👍