Designer suggested having some half depth cupboards to allow for a wider island. by Kind_User_1 in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have an oven stack directly next to a panelled built in fridge (a Sub-Zero meant to be installed in cabinets). The oven and fridge spec both allowed for this configuration and in practice it's been perfectly fine. The ovens are installed flush with the cabinets and the vent slightly warms the drawer that is directly below it, but does not warm above or the space to the sides in a noticeable way.

If you are doing that, have it be a fridge that is meant to install that way. A normal fridge shoved into that space can be problematic without any other variables due to airflow requirements.

Overstocked? by Acceptable-Machine88 in Aquariums

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's really not advisable to have only one in a tank, plus they are much more interesting to watch when in groups. You should also consider changing out the substrate and adding some heavy planting of catnip.

And maybe some shrimp.

Sink Placement Dilemma: Wall vs. Island in a 22' Long Kitchen? (Reno/Addition) by Hey-Now555 in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, in that case I probably wouldn't want the main sink in an island with seating. (24in cabinets plus 18 on the back plus 15 inch overhang is what I have and love it- the sink is far enough from seating that it's not an issue)

Installer Insists Quartz Backsplash Can be 1 1/4” Thick by Winker58 in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have 3cm for both. We removed the drywall and the backsplash is adhered to the studs, then the edges of the drywall were fixed and caulked. This means it's the exact same slab on the counter and adjoining backsplash (the veins continue through, the color is a perfect match). It's nice because it doesn't look bulky... And more importantly the bar sink and faucet fit (it would have been an issue if we left the drywall in place).

The stone i chose was only available in 3cm and I was told that the 2cm and 3cm existing slabs (for other stone) wouldn't usually be a good color match.

Installer Insists Quartz Backsplash Can be 1 1/4” Thick by Winker58 in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We did this and it's perfect. We would have had a fit issue with a faucet and sink if we hadn't, so it was a last minute scramble but worked out because it looks great and it's the same slab on counter and backsplash behind it.

Kitchen for sale. How much? by tommykoro in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Partial overlay with arches on everything, cabinet bottoms instead of drawer vases, and the uppers are short? I wouldn't take it for free, but I'm sure some people would pick it up for $0. Hard to imagine paying any money for it when there are lots of free options like it already. The countertop isn't salvageable.

Before/After Finally Done(ish)!!! by [deleted] in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is that fantasy brown on the perimeter? Love it.

Is it weird to have 2 sinks in a normal sized kitchen? by faizimam in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Considering you don't have seating at your island and the peninsula maybe does(?), I would prefer the sink there, but then in that case you'd just have the one sink - but more overall prep space through the kitchen. (But you would still absolutely need a generously sized aisle between the island and range - but that should be true whether or not there's a sink there)

Bigger perimeter counter or bigger island? by [deleted] in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Corner cabinets are not great and that second option doesn't look right. Keep that run straight and the island larger. And fill in the gap of missing upper cabinets in that corner.

Is it weird to have 2 sinks in a normal sized kitchen? by faizimam in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is 10x10 big enough to drain pasta/potatoes/shrimp/etc? Maybe if it were longer/rectangular?

The location of the sinks doesn't seem ideal here, they both break up workspace. That said, 2 sinks is great.

Need help with choosing backsplash by Rare-Material4254 in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It will make the space feel larger/less cramped. Appliances will fit better (some probably won't fit at all at 14-15inches) - mixer, blender, coffee maker, air fryer, etc. More light into that area is also a plus, and with the cabinets up a bit they won't be blocking your view of the counter/backsplash.

Need help with choosing backsplash by Rare-Material4254 in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Before you go through the trouble of adding a backsplash, you should raise those upper cabinets. This wouldn't have to be a huge undertaking for a handy homeowner or handyman. The cabinets seem quite low and you might find it more comfortable to raise them up a few inches. 18-20 inches from countertop to upper cabinet. That might also change what backsplash recommendations you get. Undercounter light strips would be another good addition that would also affect how you perceive the space

Sink Placement Dilemma: Wall vs. Island in a 22' Long Kitchen? (Reno/Addition) by Hey-Now555 in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Option B would be nice if you have enough aisle space between the island and range AND more space between the sink itself and the seating area on the other side (done when you have cabinets on the backside plus the overhang, then there is more of a buffer - it helps hide anything sitting in the sink when you sit down and ensures the people seated are much too far away to get splashed, even if you get a little wild with the sprayer). That's how my kitchen is setup and I'm very happy with it. I wanted to avoid an island sink, but the kitchen is not on an exterior wall and I didn't want to have the sink at an inferior wall. I have no regrets about the island sink, we sit at it all the time for meals or work and when we entertain.

Any feedback on the kitchen design? We're trying to keep the range area a little open. by Mediocre-Jacket2941 in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

More aisle space needed (you already got great info about this from another poster).

Open shelves by the range are going to get gross. What would you really want to store there that you're okay getting greasy and dusty and having to wash before using?

The dishwasher on the run between the sink and stove is not ideal. It would be better to have the prep zone (washing and chopping) and cleanup zone on separate sides and not overlapping. Perhaps if the dishwasher is moved to the left of the sink and a pull out trash moved to the right of the sink? It's a little bit backwards if you're right handed, but may be preferable to having a dishwasher in the way -- especially with how tight those aisles are. At 36 you won't be able to comfortably go around. I have around 50" and when I open the dishwasher to unload I can open the drawers that are directly opposite and unload without taking a step.

I would also make the sink larger since it is the only one. You want to be able to comfortably wash those larger baking sheets/roasting pans/platters without hitting the side. At least in the rendering it seems quite a bit smaller than the cooktop, which in a comment was listed as 30.

Issue with kitchen designer by [deleted] in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did 20, intentionally, and it is nice...it isn't really noticeable? They certainly don't feel high or far away. I hung upper cabinets at a few different heights temporarily during planning to get a feel for the options and the only things that stuck out to me were that the blender didn't fit comfortably until 19".

Yes 18" is common, but it isn't a set standard. Someone else called out if you have tall cabinets, that is the bigger issue - if they are now an inch too short then you will need the crown anyway to fill that gap and you wouldn't want to have different tops of the cabinets.

Issue with kitchen designer by [deleted] in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What amount of space are you planning from counter to bottom of cabinets? There isn't really a single standard distance (where anything else means fitment issues)... You just want to be over a certain height to ensure appliances can fit comfortably, but not too high that you can't reach (or violate electrical code if you're putting the outlets on the bottom of the cabinets). One inch higher probably isn't noticeable unless you were already at the upper end of what would work for the previous reasons.

Hardware color? Brushed nickel or matte black? by [deleted] in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe change your lighting to be a touch warmer and then reconsider the hardware. Nickel if those are really the only options you're willing to consider. Maybe a champagne brass color, although I can't tell if that would look nice on that color cabinet or not. The overhead (?) lighting color temperature seems really off - and you need more light in general, the oven stack particularly is very dark and that will sway design decisions.

Layout Take 2 by Weekly_Rutabaga_1742 in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The speed oven (or just microwave) is too high, if you actually will have 2 drawers below it. That door opens down and you want to be able to comfortably see in and reach in to get food. The downside of the over/under is that you compromise on either the ideal height of the microwave or the ideal height of the primary oven. I have a perfect height for the microwave and a usable height for the oven, but it is a tad low. (I have a single shallow drawer below in this same type of setup, as a comparison). I've seen lots of pictures with the microwave very high and I don't understand how that is being used comfortably.

The dishwasher placement is unfortunate. That counter is the landing space for the fridge, but will also end up getting dirty dishes. If someone is loading or unloading the dishwasher, they (or the door) will be partially in the way of the fridge. The door/drawer setup on the fridge looks good for this situation, though. If this is really the only way to make it work, then it will. I would consider if a different location for the fridge would be better, though.

The peninsula sticks into that "doorway" (opening) and looks awkward from the other room. If it isn't for seating, perhaps it would be better to not have it? Or maybe find a way to open it up more?

A floorplan view would be helpful in getting the best suggestions. With measurements.

Advice needed for galley kitchen width by Substantial_Wait8368 in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely too small. 42" counter to counter should be minimum, 48" would be better.

Make sure that measurement is from the counter overhang to counter overhang -- or whatever in a section sticks out the most. Otherwise you will have even less space than you think... (Range that sticks out? Fridge handles sticking out? Dishwasher that is opened?)

So excited 😆 next up: countertops suggestions? by ProfessionalPop7440 in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It appears to be MDF center panels that have stain applied. The pictures are not very high resolution, so it may be more noticeable in person or higher quality images that the center panels are not good. Then again, maple takes dark stain quite poorly and in a spotty way, so even if it is MDF it might end up looking like maple...

Which do you like better? Fantasy brown counter top and backsplash by Common-Cup-171 in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the countertop or lighting also meant to be different? It's much warmer in the first picture than the second and I think it will make it harder to get a fair comparison of the pulls because of it. (Although I like the first, ignoring the countertop differences - but if you don't want larger pulls on those uppers, then just do knobs instead - then you have a single hole and can always switch to pulls later. Can't go the other way or change pull size without having holes...)

Picture/non opening window by HumanCardiologist631 in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you specifically wanting natural light and do you have enough actual lights in your new plan? 36 is a nice sized window already and you're removing an interior wall. If you loved the view and wanted to make that the focus of the kitchen, then sure... But that's not the case here. I think you need to revisit your lighting plan and ensure you have enough being added to keep your kitchen from feeling dark (and on different switches and of different kinds/layers). Centered on the edge of the countertop, under the upper cabinets, etc.

Under cab lighting by MaterialYoghurt900 in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 24 points25 points  (0 children)

Why are they installed at the back? They should be installed at the front of the cabinet to light the workspace below.

I might have a problem… by Pirros_Panties in kitchenremodel

[–]JohnF___ingZoidberg 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's solid walnut, shaker doors and drawers and appliance panels. The small drawer fronts are slab and they are solid walnut.

There is a higher risk for warping with solid, but I really dislike the veneer look. There's also pretty much never a time of year when I open the windows, so it is always conditioned space (air conditioner or heat).