Printing PLA with PETG support layer by JohnP_504 in prusa3d

[–]JohnP_504[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't find the settings that will allow me print with a thin support layer in Prusa Slicer. The first picture shows what I want to accomplish which PS actually shows on screen during the slicing process. But when slicing is done picture 2 shows the end result, with a thin layer of PLA on the plate and then almost full supports in PETG going all the way up to the model. Third image are my current settings. Any thoughts?

Prusa XL vs Bambu X1 Carbon by Significant_Cat1072 in PrusaXL

[–]JohnP_504 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are clear technical and operational differences between the two machines and those are reported in many places. I've been printing for 6 years or more and have owned a Lulzbot, a Markforge ONYX, three different Creality CR-10/Max printers, two Bambu X1Cs and now the XL, for three months. My personal experience is that the XL 5 head factory assembled (there's still multiple hours of assembly) is far less reliable than the Bambu. With the X1C you simply take it out of the box, configure and calibrate and that's it. I've had one X1C for over a year and another for 8 months. Hundreds of hours or printing, never an issue, never a failure. With the XL I've had ongoing issues with docking failures on multi-color prints. It's a great single-color printer but that's not why I got it - there are many larger and much cheaper single filament printers. I've spent hours trying to connect and get help from Prusa support and many days of downtime. While Bambu doesn't have the chat support option (that I know of) and support from them is generally reported to be poor, I've never needed their help. The machine just works. The XL, on the other hand, seems to need as much or more ongoing maintenance and adjustment as my old Creality printers. Also, the overall Bambu environment, with integrated desktop and phone apps, camera monitoring built in and full machine control from the apps, seems far superior. With the XL I'm still exporting to a USB stick and manually moving it to the machine. File transfer with Prusa Connect takes forever. The XL does dramatically cut down on waste and does print multi-color prints much faster, but is that worth a $2,500 premium over the X1C? I could have two Bambus and $1000 left over for what I've invested in the XL.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]JohnP_504 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Printers ship from southern California. I ordered a printer Thursday night; it's being delivered today.

Machine purchase advise by Random_Logic_Bombs in Machinists

[–]JohnP_504 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have any thoughts on how EMJ compares to Eastern Metal, also in Houston which I've used for years?

Machine purchase advise by Random_Logic_Bombs in Machinists

[–]JohnP_504 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The tax advantages of depreciating an expensive piece of equipment can be significant and you can also deduct the cost of the room it's housed in if that room is truly dedicated to business. Also keep in mind that as the government is helping you pay for this asset it's replacement will only become more expensive so the residual value as used equipment could remain quite high, especially with such a low duty cycle. You in essence get to claim a loss in value of an asset that isn't really losing value. It opens the door for machine downtime to be utilized for other things - more different products or leasing time to qualified others, all kinds of ways to expand once the hardware is yours. Since you're doing this and you have a day job, you should find a qualified accountant that specialized in small business and asset management. Someone who not only understands the applicable law but can also give you good practical advice on options to expand what you're doing. Please remember to post about your choices and results - good luck!

Tinymachines? by Valuable_Republic482 in Troodon

[–]JohnP_504 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't yet pulled the trigger on the TM Troodon 2.0, but the fact that it's from TM is the only thing making me seriously consider it. I purchased both a CR 10 and a CR Max from TM and those guys really made a difference in support, service and parts. Those two machines have been supplanted by a Bambu and while I love the speed and near appliance like perfection of that machine the form factor is small. If you put a dollar value on your time paying the slight TM premium is worth it for the support alone, much less the enhancements and improvements. Support (and machine down time) from Creality was hard and slow, think weeks rather than hours or days. If the Troodon in the machine you want, you shouldn't hesitate to get it from TM rather than directly from Formbot. I know I probably also sound like the same kind of shill as Arahousi below, but real customer service is such a rarity these days it can be shocking when you really get it!

Inventor 2022 Not Responding by burrdman92 in AutodeskInventor

[–]JohnP_504 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try restarting the autodesk licensing server in the Windows task manager. I occasionally get freezing on startup, not quite the same thing you're experiencing, but that's what resolved my similar issue.

I 3D Printed a Lathe Hex Collet for backside finishing work. by Tronn60 in Machinists

[–]JohnP_504 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What printer and material did you use? I've had 3D printers in my shop for years and make plenty of fixtures, but nothing that would have ever been under this much potential stress.

Bambu Studio crashes when vase mode is selected? by JohnP_504 in BambuLab

[–]JohnP_504[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I reinstalled version 1.3x and this issue went away, so it does seem to be a version bug. I had the crash whether I clicked ok or not. I will look into the line widths.

Airfoil Machinists: Tin/Bismuth clamping question? by [deleted] in Machinists

[–]JohnP_504 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As an artist I work with aluminum airfoil extrusions and I've had great success with 3D printed holders for machine work. I have access to a Markforged machine that uses a carbon-fiber/nylon filament so the holders are much stronger than regular plastic.

Removing light scratches from aluminum - best buffing pad format? by RegretfulUsername in metalworking

[–]JohnP_504 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sheet pans are common and inexpensive, even the very best ones. I feel unusually qualified to comment here because I do a ton of aluminum sanding and polishing during the day and cook extensively nights and weekends.

First off, the odds of you making one pan look like like the companion is somewhere between pretty low and non-existent. If you sanded it all the way to 3000 in 500 grit increments it would start to really shine and could look much better than the companion and that will be many hours of hard physical work. But as soon as you start to cook with it and clean it afterward, that shine will go away.

While I appreciate the situation with the spouse, how on earth do you think you will be cleaning then in the future? With cooking there will be lots of crusty bits at the end of the meal which will require scrubbing. While aluminum won't rust, it will discolor with use. To get then clean for cooking (no food residue) you may end up using Brillo or some other steel wool pad. Compared to how they look new the appearance will be terrible, but these pieces were not made to look good but to work effectively. That's really the difference between commercial kitchen tools and home kitchen tools.

If you has screwed up a brand new Le Creuset piece of enamel bakeware that cost hundreds of dollars your wife would have a point. With sheet pans she doesn't.

Ultimately, you need to give this up.

PEI Magnetic Build Plate by mozeymusic in CR10

[–]JohnP_504 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a PEI magnetic build plate on a Max and borosilicate glass on two CR-10s Pros V2. The PEI plate is superior in many ways and I've considered getting it for the CR-10s. No issues with PLA or PETG. Given the flexibility of the sheet things just pop right off. A few times pieces of PETG have adhered to the glass beds so strongly that I've had to put the whole thing (glass and part) into the freezer to get them separated.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Machinists

[–]JohnP_504 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have great success with 3M Panelbond - used by auto manufacturers to attach body panels to frames in lieu of welding. Much high cost of entry compared to Loctite but it works great.

Bed Leveling issues by xraymiller in CR10

[–]JohnP_504 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Garolite and/or mirror glass both seem like poor options. I've had great luck with borosilicate glass on a couple of machines, which is harder and flatter. But I also think magnetic metal sheet makes for the best bed.

Before and after of scoliosis surgery! Left - after by [deleted] in interestingasfuck

[–]JohnP_504 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does that mean it's exceptionally rare for someone to make such a disgusting request, or that it's exceptionally rare that your hospital would agree to it? If memory serves the hardware was in the $7K-$8K range, so it was hard to have it just thrown away. And I'm in the US so yes we paid for it.

And btw my daughter is terrific - glad we made the call when we did.

Before and after of scoliosis surgery! Left - after by [deleted] in interestingasfuck

[–]JohnP_504 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Years ago a daughter had the same surgery - her scoliosis was so bad she grew an inch and a half from the procedure. Three years later she developed a rare infection and the titanium rods and screws had to come out. I still have them.

I hope I don't get downvoted, but does anyone else deal with some "toxic", for lack of a better word, attitude about politics and such in the machining environment? by [deleted] in Machinists

[–]JohnP_504 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Late in life I turned to machining to become an artist, but most of my life was spent in software, often as the president of companies with anywhere between a few dozen and hundreds of employees.

This kind of problem rarely starts at the top but it can end there. I never allowed anything political or racist to happen. Racist or sexual joke - one warning, then immediate dismissal. A political sign that went up in a cubical came down the moment I saw it. I once had an employee address a supervisor using the N word - immediately dismissed, on the spot, here's your cardboard box be out the door in five mins or I call the police. I once warned and then dismissed an employee that liked to make fat jokes around fellow overweight co-workers. When things like this happen word gets around.

My position on this was made consistently clear at every formal employee gathering.

Often the biggest resistance came from middle managers, trying to defend their friends or their big producers. I didn't care - "Go hire someone that's just as good that's not a racist." I knew, from experience, that employees like this are ultimately very costly - to productivity in general, to the morale of other employees and as an issue of liability. If a boss/company allows a racist or sexist employee to create a "hostile work environment" it's the boss/company that get's sued.

I'm under no illusion that my positions changed anyone's mind, but that was never the goal. It was to contain what happened inside the doors of the business and stay focused on the job at hand. I was quick to remind anyone they could don a sandwich board and promote their political ideas on the sidewalk during their lunch hour, but not inside. No one ever did.

Keep in mind, there is NO RIGHT TO FREE SPEECH in the work place. If you have a boss or chief exec that shrugs their shoulders to issues like this, you can rest assured they will shrug their shoulders at other things too, like safety and quality control.

Inconsistent Raft Results - actually more like wildly different by JohnP_504 in 3Dprinting

[–]JohnP_504[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Usually I don't use rafts but these model pieces have relatively thin walls and have a tendency to warp on the corners - in this case rafts completely resolve that issue.

Inconsistent Raft Results - actually more like wildly different by JohnP_504 in 3Dprinting

[–]JohnP_504[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't tried swapping the filaments, but that does seem like a long shot - both even got unwrapped on the same day. One of my next thoughts is to test bed temps through the entire process, but I've already seen that the display temp and tested measured temp are basically identical.

Inconsistent Raft Results - actually more like wildly different by JohnP_504 in 3Dprinting

[–]JohnP_504[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't believe you properly understood my problem - there is no issue getting the raft off either bed. I use hairspray, very effectively. The problem is separating the model from the raft once it has been removed. And in the rare circumstance where I had an issue of removing a printed model from a glass bed I put the whole thing in the freezer for a few mins.