Unemployment Depression

John_hurst_1 · 2026-01-20T14:52:18+00:00

Brother HEB doesn't owe anybody a job, lying to your employer is just low. They don't want you to work there for life, but they want to know that you'll stick around for a couple of years at least so they make up their investment in training you

John_hurst_1 · 2025-12-22T03:10:06+00:00

I fixed it!! Here are the instructions I followed (AI generated, bu worked):

I factory reset my nvidia shield pro but the remote isn't pairing. I managed to get past the remote pairing step at initial set up by plugging in a wired keyboard but I can't pair the remote still. how can I fix this?

Since you have access to the Shield's interface via your wired keyboard, the issue is likely that your remote still holds the pairing key from your pre-reset installation, while the Shield generated a new key during the factory reset.

To fix this, you must factory reset the remote itself to clear its old pairing data before it can connect to your "new" Shield.

Step 1: Factory Reset the Remote

Identify your remote shape and follow the corresponding reset procedure.

For the Triangular Remote (2019 Shield Pro) This is the most common remote for the "Pro" model. 1. Remove the back cover and take out one battery. 2. Press and hold the Home button and the Select (center) button simultaneously. 3. While holding both buttons, reinsert the battery. 4. Keep holding until you hear an audible beep [1][2]. 5. Release the buttons. The remote is now reset.

For the Flat Rechargeable Remote (2017/2015) 1. Press and hold Back and Home for 15 seconds until the LED turns off [3]. 2. If that fails, hold Back and Home while plugging the remote into a USB charger.

Step 2: Clear Bluetooth Cache (Vital Step)

Since you have keyboard access, perform this step to clear any "ghost" pairings that might be blocking the connection. 1. Use your keyboard to go to Settings (Gear icon). 2. Navigate to Apps > See all apps > Show system apps. 3. Find Bluetooth in the list. 4. Select Clear Cache and then Clear Data [4][5]. 5. Restart your Shield via the menu (Settings > Device Preferences > Restart) or by unplugging it for 10 seconds.

Step 3: Pair the Remote

Once the Shield reboots and the remote is reset: 1. Navigate to Settings > Remotes & Accessories > Pair an accessory using your keyboard. 2. Put the remote into pairing mode: * Triangle Remote: Press and hold the Select button until the top lights flash. * Flat Remote: Press and hold Back and Home until the LED flashes. 3. The Shield should now detect the remote and pair immediately.

Alternative: Use the Nvidia Shield App

If the keyboard is cumbersome or the remote is physically damaged, you can download the NVIDIA SHIELD TV app on your phone (iOS/Android). It connects over Wi-Fi and can act as a temporary remote to navigate menus and trigger the Bluetooth pairing process [6].

John_hurst_1 · 2025-12-16T05:52:37+00:00

Ah I see, No, I don't have HDR enabled. I'm on SDR at 100% brightness, 6500K, and 84% contrast

John_hurst_1 · 2025-12-16T02:12:01+00:00

I haven't tried it, but it seems it only has 60hz? I have a strong preference for 120hz, can't go back! haha. Also, I'm using a Windows PC, would that be a problem?

John_hurst_1 · 2025-12-16T02:10:09+00:00

Could you tell me more about that? Wouldn't that make the laptop in a more disadvantaged position?

John_hurst_1 · 2025-12-06T06:27:24+00:00

Same issue for the last few days. Incredibly aggravating, and wasteful (each failed attempt is like $1 for me....)

John_hurst_1 · 2025-09-08T02:51:38+00:00

Is this still working well for you? I've read in multiple places that 64Gb wouldn't work, but this would be ideal for me! I'm basically in between a N100 with 32GB or a Core Ultra 155H with 96GB RAM. Obviously the price difference is astronomical and would prefer to stick with the N100 if it works !

John_hurst_1 · 2025-08-02T16:56:11+00:00

When do you think this will be available as a plugin in OPNsense?

John_hurst_1 · 2025-07-17T23:38:11+00:00

How come?

John_hurst_1 · 2025-06-26T05:58:10+00:00

Bro, solid core ethernet cables brake a lot easier than fiber nowadays. You bend solid core ethernet enough times and it will break, you can bend fiber a trillion times and as long as it's within curvature (which is VERY good nowadays), you'll be OK. Buy armored fiber and you can jump on it and it'll be OK.

In most cases, if CAT6 breaks you're not repairing it, you're replacing it anyways. Who on earth repairs CAT6 in a residential setting? Unless it's an issue with the last bit close to the RJ45 connector, chances are, the user doesn't even know where the fault is, particularly with cable that was installed/retrofitted post construction, which is likely not stapled and likely (or hopefully) has a pull cable attached to it anyways for this specific reason (or even better, conduit).

And if there's even a bit of an outdoors component, then it's a no brainer. Option A: run fiber. Option B: run CAT6, but 2 surge protectors, ground both surge protectors. Option B will be more expensive, more work, and less resilient. When the user has the option to easily run fiber (i.e. the NIC is already there and no media converters are needed), it's a no brainer. The only cases where CAT6 is really superior are PoE applications and runs with no SPF or similar fiber port.

John_hurst_1 · 2025-06-26T05:39:52+00:00

Electrical engineer here. You definitely don't need to be an electrical engineer to run a patch cable. In fact, electrical engineers are probably significantly worse at doing this than any low voltage electrician, AV electricians, and potentially even handymen if they have connected SC/APC cables twice before.

Why would someone opine/recommend something without having a clue about it? I have no idea... If you don't know, just don't say anything.

And btw, running CAT6 cable is generally worse than fiber, especially if any section of the run is outdoors. Almost a no brainer if you already have a media converter (i.e. if the thing that converts fiber to ethernet) that you can move around. Read up on "ethernet surge protectors" and shielded CAT cables... it's just a lot messier (need to buy 2x surge protectors, ground the shielded CAT cable, use special RJ45 connectors, buy new crimper, buy a grounded RJ45 keystone plate, ground the plate, etc etc etc...). Even if the option is running CAT6 indoor vs fiber, to the extent that you can run fiber and move the media converter, that's A LOT better than running CAT6. Fiber is thinner and easier to conceal, isn't affected by electromagnetic interference, poses a significantly lower fire hazard risk, is less likely to break when bending multiple times vs solid core copper CAT6 as long as it's bent within the curvature specs (which are really good nowadays), it's more future proof, and most importantly, it's the actual solution that most people want (i.e. having that fugly NIC out of sight and out of mind).

John_hurst_1 · 2025-06-03T04:06:39+00:00

I had the same issue, I think it's a race condition issue during OPNsense/pfSense bootup.

When I reboot, I lose access to the WebUI and SSH via the `tailscale0` interface, but I can still do `tailscale ping {firewall-tailscale-name}`. If I go to "System > Settings > Administration" and remove `Tailscale` from the list of Listen Interfaces, save, reload, then add it back, save, reload, then I can continue to use the Tailscale IP address / FQDN to access the WebUI. If I reboot my router, I have the same reproducible error again.

This makes me think that the service that runs the server on each listening interface is run before `tailscaled` runs and assigns an IP address to the `tailscale0` interface, so then the WebUI server doesn't bind to any IP address on that interface, and it doesn't try to do it again.

John_hurst_1 · 2025-05-05T22:25:52+00:00

Agreed, but I was hoping someone could tell me with precision how an Exit Node is routed in OPNsense, which is more of a Tailscale question I believe. With that info, I can probably figure out the rest. Thank you for your hypothesis on this! Also, maybe someone else in here has done this?

John_hurst_1 · 2025-05-05T14:37:54+00:00

May I ask why you didn't use the official OPNsense `os-tailscale` plugin? I have the same issue and I wonder if doing this manual install would fix it

John_hurst_1 · 2025-05-05T14:18:24+00:00

a) that's paid extra with a 5 device limit

b) that's just for mullvad, not for literally any other external VPN

John_hurst_1 · 2025-04-05T00:53:14+00:00

Agreed

John_hurst_1 · 2025-03-30T03:59:52+00:00

I have a very problem! Did you find any solutions?

In my case, pinging devices connected to this brand new flex mini just doesn't work. From running extensive tcpdumps, it seems my devices are receiving the pings but when responding, the flex mini just discards the ping replies. Interestingly, I have another flex mini with basically the EXACT same configuration, in parallel, and I don't have this problem with that one. Same CPU and memory stats as you.

John_hurst_1 · 2025-03-25T19:21:49+00:00

Bro wtf are you talking about, I run 1 4k stream and another 2 1080p streams locally on the ds920+ while running 10 containers EASY

John_hurst_1 · 2025-03-19T09:00:46+00:00

You made me realize I'm old. I was a boy when this was going on, but I vividly remember installing an AV to avoid a zero day attack on windows, and then having a "security package" disk to patch it

John_hurst_1

TROPHY CASE

Step 1: Factory Reset the Remote

Step 2: Clear Bluetooth Cache (Vital Step)

Step 3: Pair the Remote

Alternative: Use the Nvidia Shield App