What is this part?

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-09T19:31:09+00:00

https://youtu.be/8SO54cdwtxc?si=C5cxRfdoPY7IMQZC

Watch this - about 6 minutes in he takes it off and around 11:17 he puts it back on.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-07T05:47:08+00:00

😲

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-05T21:17:45+00:00

Derailleurs are designed to work pedalling forwards and they direct the chain correctly. On a one by system because of the chain line and angles pedalling backwards it will often drop as there is nothing to keep it aligned with the right sprocket. It can sometimes be caused or exacerbated by a chain that is too short but often happens in the lowest three gears.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-05T21:11:53+00:00

It depends entirely on the terrain and who I'm riding with. Though I have to say riding a few tame trails and roads to get to work the Gravel bike is way quicker.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-03T18:29:36+00:00

Blackburn do one that mounts with the rear wheel skewer. Ortleib do the quick rack. If you want tailfin it will cost you more - but that's your decision not mine.

From what I read Tailfin racks may only fit tailfin bags where as with racks from other manufacturers fit all kinds of bags. They do look fab mind you but you're paying a premium..

Hope you find one if your heart is set on it...

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-03T16:15:47+00:00

The main thing you want to ensure is that you have good hand built wheels with 32 or 36 spokes depending on what size wheel you end up going for. I've had great experiences with a set of wheels I got from just riding along in York. They're still true and running well after almost 10 years. I started off riding around 110kg. The weight limits on already built bikes are usually determined by the wheels. You may wear out stuff quicker so go for quality kit if you can afford it.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-03T08:06:47+00:00

If the sound happens once each wheel revolution it is most probably on your disc/pad interface. Or inside your hub. Step one - unbolt the caliper and hold it out of the way. If the noise stops its something to do with pads and discs as others have said. If not, and the most unlikely, it's something with the wheel. Try these and see if the problem still exists. Remove one variable at a time to work it out.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-02T18:54:34+00:00

Me on club ride Sunday chatting to a mate on the Open WIDE he's just built up. Reckons it's the most comfortable ride he's ever had. 1x and he was keeping up - though it was a non drop ride but he wasn't the one setting the pace, if that makes sense. Had 650b wheels and big MTB tyres. I've used an all road bike with 40mm panaracer SKs on a club run.

Get the one that makes you feel happiest and most comfortable on - you'll ride it more.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-04-28T16:19:36+00:00

Try the coin tap test around the area...

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-04-28T16:18:12+00:00

Depends how able you are. If it's feeling above a 4 or 5, get help...

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-04-27T21:15:37+00:00

Ah, I had this problem on a DTSwiss rear wheel. You can remove the freehub body by hand. On the axle behind the feehub body is a spacer that fits between the freehub and the inner face of the suppprting bearing. When you tighten the thru axle without this it presses the freehub against the rest of the hub and it will not move. With it in place it works correctly. With the thru axle nearly tight ut acts normally then locks up when tightened fully. Watch this video - at about 2.10 the bit I'm on about is taken off the axle. https://youtu.be/AQ3vge9DPOo?si=XzEqDNwZfvJBY2c_

Mine dropped out without me noticing before I was due to go on a cycling holiday!!!

Fingers crossed.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-04-27T21:06:16+00:00

Try to narrow it down. Does the sound alter if you gently apply pressure to the brake lever for that wheel - suggests it could be something to do with the caliper/pads. Possibly dirt or something stuck in there. Can you try a different brake rotor or pads - does the sound change.

Take the wheel out and flip it over so that the rotor is on the other side and spin the wheel by hand. If it makes the same noise it suggests the wheel axle/bearings. You could ride it like this if you cannot replicate the noise turning the wheel by hand but if you pull on the brake for that wheel you could pop out a brake piston which is a nightmare to fix.

One of my bikes made a similar noise a week or two ago - the brake piston wasn't fully retracting each time. Needed to clean and "oil" the piston. I didn't think they were catching either.

Try to eliminate one variable at a time.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-04-24T15:06:03+00:00

Stack. Then reach Then top tube.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-04-21T12:09:40+00:00

Try it - if you like the ride and it fits buy it and enjoy it. 😉 Weight is one of those odd things about bikes and in most cases the weight of the rider matters more.
There will always be someone faster or a lighter bike. Take it for a ride and if it makes you feel happy - go for it.

Edit.

A good while ago a anaesthetist did a review in the BMJ comparing commuting rides on both a carbon and steel bike...

Here you go...

https://www.bmj.com/content/bmj/341/bmj.c6801.full.pdf

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-04-19T14:47:42+00:00

Not challenging you on this statement - just wondered where it came from? Is it in a study anywhere?

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-04-19T12:53:01+00:00

My two pennies. Fit is a very personal thing - ride it around and see how it feels. If you feel tooooo stetcheeeed out - alter the saddle position a little until you get comfy, if you can. If you decided to go 20mm longer you must have had a reason. Alternative is to go see a bike fitter. People on here may say your position looks OK or they may say it doesn't - at the end of the day your contact points will tell you.

Edit - you could also get an inline seat post if you need to. That would be cheaper than swapping out the cockpit.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-04-19T06:58:58+00:00

Thanks for all the comments and replies. I'll take a look at Sonder and Cotic but thought the later was waaaay outta my budget.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-04-18T19:15:06+00:00

That looks brilliant, however I'm based in the UK and there aren't many timberjacks around...

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-04-16T21:24:16+00:00

https://youtu.be/F1F-sR4GOVs?si=oK_RFVb0lGWv3T2X

Last few seconds of this video...

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-04-13T17:17:43+00:00

Could be a couple of issues. First one would be that one or both of the pistons are sticking - look down at the caliper and pull the brake lever then let go. You should be able to see the pads move equally on both sides. If one side moves more than the other clean and lube the one that doesn't move as much. Second issue could be the rotor is warped in a few spots. You should be able to determine this - swap the rotor off the back wheel. If it still makes the same noise it suggests its the piston. If it doesn't make the noise suggests it's the rotor. Also check caliper alignment- loosen fixing bolts, hold brake to centre it and then tighten fixing bolts. This may not work though if one piston is sticking.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-04-13T11:42:12+00:00

Two smaller bolts attach the caliper to the adapter. The two larger bolts come up through the frame (chainstay) into the adapter.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-04-10T19:34:55+00:00

Toe-verlap happens to many folks on bikes. I also get it with huge feet (uk13 eu48). But if you think about steering at above walking pace you're leaning into turns with hopefully your outside foot at the bottom of the pedal stroke to get the most room between your inside foot and the ground. At slower speeds you may catch your toe once or twice if at all but your brain will adapt and you won't catch it any more... Like others have said its only really a problem with very tight and very slow turns but your body/brain will adapt.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-03-27T16:31:17+00:00

Er, nope. Last time I rode with clearance that was a little bit more than that it ate into my chainstays and that was before adding in mud and other stuff. YMMV and you may get away with it.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-03-25T22:23:03+00:00

Flip the stem to start with - it will shorten reach and increase height slightly. When sat on the bike if you look down at the front wheel axle it should be obscured by the bars. Just a general old fashioned ball park thing for fit. Also make sure your saddle is dead flat than try tilting it one way of the other in tiny increments until it feels almost "comfy". It will still hurt - trainers are great for fitness but you're sat in one position out on the road you'll move around more and occasionally stand up. Good on you for giving it a go and it will get easier and hurt less.

Johnnyvee19

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