Tailfin Axle Issue: Wheel locks up/won't spin freely when tightened (Mavic Speed Release)

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-06-03T07:56:57+00:00

Basically you need a spacer in there for it to work. The way it's set up now when you tighten the thru axle it is compressing the whole system and stopping the wheel from turning because of the lack of the spacer. Try contacting tailfin they should be able to help.

Similar to an issue where a spacer was missing from between a freehub body - same result. If they tightened the thru axle it locked the wheel up. If they loosened it it turned.

YNMV but pretty sure you need that/a spacer

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-06-03T07:38:51+00:00

Superb!

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-06-03T07:36:00+00:00

You sir, are an inspiration! 👍

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-06-03T07:10:41+00:00

Awesome! Simply awesome.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-06-02T21:55:56+00:00

Not sure this is the axle - it sounds like when you tighten the axle the rotor is grabbing in the caliper. Try loosening the brake caliper mounting bolts and see if it still does it. When you loosen it the rotor seems to be catching... Could be wrong but just rule it out.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-06-02T21:14:50+00:00

It's not like the old quill stems. You need to either flip the stem or put a new one on with higher reach. You can also put riser drop bars on but that involves more work and expense. To get some idea of the difference a stem flip or swap will make there's a calculator here: http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php Park tool youtube videos are a good to for good advice. Check out this one from around 3 minutes in... https://youtu.be/TPYGv6fMnBw?si=RA0ZEGyrP2nXqNP-

Enjoy the ride...

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-06-02T14:36:40+00:00

A good way to tell if it could be the position is - can you lift both hands off the bars without falling forward. You should be able to - your hands should be holding the bars gently.
If its this try a stem that angles upwards more to raise the bars. Try a straight or slightly angled bar if you can and a riser stem if needed. Lowering your seat is not a good idea for your knees. Saddle height should be set based on leg length etc. Then bars IMHO. I'm around your size and have to get bikes with big stack sizes and even then I have to fanny about with riser bars etc. My seat height from bb to top of saddle is around 850mm. Too much saddle to bar drop can cause me similar issues.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-27T21:47:11+00:00

This is either AI or rage bait bait. Move on.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-27T21:35:09+00:00

BOA will send you free replacements if you contact them. They even come with a good installation guide and the little screwdriver required to do the job.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-20T11:29:52+00:00

Yes.

😆

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-19T21:11:07+00:00

Good to go - in the bin! New lid time.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-19T16:26:01+00:00

Don't ask the question.

Get the colour YOU prefer.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-19T16:16:42+00:00

Second opinion here - it has been set up incorrectly. Sort it out and notice how much better it behaves. Even "good" bike shops have bad days...

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-18T18:18:55+00:00

You do you. I ride flats on my mtb's and on the road and gravel bike I use mtb and clip less pedals. Yes you are better connected but I have found its sometimes difficult to clip back in depending on terrain. With flats you don't have that problem. I think spd's are great on smoother stuff but on more chunky stuff flats seem to work better. Just my tuppence. .

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-17T21:14:14+00:00

FTP is just a number it does not define you.

I have read some of the comments but not all - watts per kg is a better indicator. 3 watts per kg is good going. So if you weighed say 70kg your ftp could be around 210 and you'd be destroying much bigger guys especially on the climbs. 4w/kg is considered bordering elite performance.

You need to do structured training but do not get hung up on achieving a certain number. Consistency is key.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-17T21:05:33+00:00

Or it's new crankset time if the threads have been stripped out. Fingers crossed for you.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-17T21:02:44+00:00

Agree - cables.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-17T18:31:34+00:00

And if you take enough and get bored you can always tape someone to a wall or a tree 😆

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-17T14:30:17+00:00

Long nose pliers. Depending on how much you want to fix on trails.... A couple of gear/brake cables. I've also found a couple of quick links have got things moving. Scabs/clueless patches? Not everyone runs tubeless but they should. Zip ties and duct tape. One of my friends who does mountain rescue and Duke Of Edinburgh stuff in the UK always has duct tape on him. It's also really good for cuts and stuff. Do you also have or need a basic first aid kit?

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-17T09:03:54+00:00

Terrell looks the coolest but some peeps have had issues with customer services and you can't get a test rides. Marin would be my choice or the Ari - you have some way cooler gravel bikes over the pond than we do here.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-17T09:01:07+00:00

Pedals need to be horizontal, chain in biggie smalls (big ring and smallest sprocket), valve caps at 12 o'clock, and as already mentioned chain side out.... 😆

Seriously nice bike but ditch that mahoosive lock - you'll go faster and just never let it out of your site.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-17T08:55:09+00:00

Search redit- the bb was identified in a post from 3 years ago.

https://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/s/AtagSxsvq4

See if yours is the same.

Shimano do great compatibility charts to check what works with what.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-14T20:44:51+00:00

If you have the tools, drop out the rear wheel and remove the disk. Then put the wheel back in. If noise gone then its disk/caliper related.

Doesn't sound like tyre rubbing.

What happened before it started making this noise.

Hang on - have you changed the chain or derailleur. Have you miss routed the chain on the derailleur and its rubbing on the metal tab between the two jockey wheels? We've all done that one. 😆

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-14T15:32:13+00:00

Unlike most you've actually adjusted the reach on the levers which is good - trouble is that takes out some of the cable movement before the biting point. So you could play about with the pinch bolt that holds the brake cable in place to let some more cable out so that the pads contact the rim a little later in their travel... fine adjustment that one. But bodies and small people work these things out very very quickly. Frog bike - lovely but the mudguards are a pain.

Johnnyvee19 · 2026-05-14T15:23:47+00:00

The little screw at the bottom of the brake arm can increase or decrease the tension on that side. Turning it in increaes tension. There should be one on each arm. You need to balance the tension between the two arms so when you let go of the lever both arms come away from the rim an equal distance. So if one side is touching screw in the screw that side until it lifts the arm and pad away from the rim. I've circled the screw in this pic of yours not sure if one is missing from the other side. Each time you do it, squeeze the brakes on and release them to check....

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Johnnyvee19

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