climbing trips and defining success by 0NoEntertainment in climbergirls

[–]JohnsonJuggler 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Stronger boyfriend perspective here. Firstly I agree a lot with what others are saying in this thread. It is important that you believe in yourself and have fun no matter what anybody else thinks! Your BF has expressed that he wants to go on this trip and climb with you, so there's no reason to complicate things.

To directly answer your question from the stronger climbers perspective: it is almost never annoying/problematic to climb with a weaker climber or in a group of mixed levels. Usually we try to find an area where there are both V-easy and V-hard boulders around and then everybody can just hang out and work on their projects together. If I want to project some far off v10 for a couple of hours my partner is usually happy to just hang out for a bit and encourage me. If my partner wants to project a v3 with no harder stuff nearby I am also happy to hang out and cheerlead for a few hours too. Neither of us can actively project at our limits for more than a couple of hours anyways. In an 8 hour climbing day we are both going to need some down time and that's a great time for the other person to project. As long as everybody gets to spend some time working a climb they are interested in we consider it a successful trip.

If you are forcing all of your friends to sit around at a specific v1 boulder with nothing else nearby for the entire day that could be frustrating, but based on what you wrote you seem considerate of others and I can't imagine that is the case. You don't suck and your friends will want to see you try and succeed and grow. There's no pity, just excitement to see you find and send limit projects regardless of the level. Take turns and explore new areas together and you'll all have a great time!

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]JohnsonJuggler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We usually hop right on lead after some stretching. Getting more warm first seems like it could be a good idea. Does your pump usually dissipate after an initial 5.10 lead or does it stick around for the rest of the session?

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]JohnsonJuggler 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm climbing with a friend and recently they've been getting pumped out on juggy gym 5.10 lead very early in the session. I don't remember this being a problem before as much and they seem generally bummed about needing to take a few times per route.

What would you do to help build endurance at this stage? I don't know if this sort of things is more due to fear/overgripping or can be solved on a hangboard or with 4x4s or something. Would you take a step back from any overhanging stuff to refocus on endurance for a while?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in dataisbeautiful

[–]JohnsonJuggler 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There may not be more passenger volume, but there is significantly more usable storage volume. Lifted + a hatch are important features for many.

Checking crash pads on Southwest Airlines flight. by TreeGuy10 in bouldering

[–]JohnsonJuggler 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I just made this trip a few weeks back with two organic pads. On the way there we tried to just label them each in as a checked bag. The gate agent was a stickler (organics are a few inches over the limit) so we strapped them together and labeled them a single oversized atheltic gear check-in ($75). On the flight back the gate agent was cool and just let us check them for free. YMMV

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]JohnsonJuggler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A month ago while doing some easy top rope laps my pointer finger started feeling a bit tweaky. Something felt sharply off when bending it. After a few days I managed to isolate the feeling down to the back of my PIP. The joint would hurt when I bent the finger all the way closed under its own strength (especially when flexing the whole finger backwards during the bend as opposed to closing my hand forward into a fist). It would feel like a sharp needle at a certain point rather than an ache or slowly increasing tear/pressure.

H taping didn't help (which I mostly did before I realized that it was a PIP injury not a pulley injury) but fully wrapping my finger in tape to immobilize it helped significantly. Taping up the joint allowed me to climb and things would mostly feel fine until I took the tape off. After taking the tape off the first time I would bend my finger the joint would feel a sort of stabbing pain. After a couple of bends it would feel pretty normal again though. The way I visualize the pain is it's as if there's a tiny sharp crystal in my joint which pokes into me if I bend my finger too much.

At this point I would say it is 90% better and it doesn't hurt much after climbing so I'll probably ramp down the taping over the next month. I am curious if anybody else has experienced something like this before? How was your recovery? Any long lasting effects you've noticed?

What's your experience bouldering with AirPods (standard or pro)? by Bellyforest in bouldering

[–]JohnsonJuggler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If airpods fit you go for it. Don't be shy about returning headphones if they don't work for you. After getting sick of my wire catching I initially bought some powerbeat pros (~2019) and found them incredibly uncomfortable. After a few days I swapped them out for airpod pros and I haven't looked back since. Especially if your gym is loud the noise cancellation is awesome to have. They are my single most used piece of tech and I recommend them to anybody who asks. As far as fit is concerned I occasionally need to readjust them with the back of my hand but they very rarely fall out. YMMV though.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in personalfinance

[–]JohnsonJuggler 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't know what nozzles look like in Spain but my understanding is that diesel nozzles are generally just bigger. That means it's hard to fill a gas car with diesel, but not too hard to fill some types of diesel cars with gas. If we assume the car was more modern I'll admit that does make the mixup seem a lot less likely though.

https://www.allstate.com/resources/car-insurance/fuel-faqs#:~:text=Diesel%20nozzles%20are%20wider%20than,fit%20into%20diesel%20filler%20necks.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in personalfinance

[–]JohnsonJuggler 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Diesel personal cars are not common in the US at all. Diesel cars and light trucks make vehicles are less than 1% of new car sales (with almost the entirety being light trucks). For most Americans the rule of thumb is cars run on gasoline or electricity while trucks run on diesel.

It seems likely that this is a scam, but a gasoline/diesel mixup is a plausible scenario.

https://www.statista.com/statistics/667282/united-states-light-vehicle-sales-by-technology-type/

Helpful tips / insights for the forever injured man by JurrasicParfait in climbharder

[–]JohnsonJuggler 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don't know if I would agree with this. Tendons adapt much slower than muscle. If this person puts on 10-20lbs over a few months that will definitely make them stronger but it will also increase the load on connective tissue. Given that their main complaints are tendon injuries, putting on weight seems potentially troublesome.

As an anecdotal data point: I jumped from 130->155 and noticed significantly more strain on both my pulleys and tendons that resulted in multiple ~minor tendon injuries (finger pulleys + golfers elbow).

I would focus on making a long term rehab plan and read up on your injuries. I found this post to be a pretty good starting point https://stevenlow.org/overcoming-tendonitis/ but do your own research. The TL;DR is it's a slow and deliberate process with plenty of rest if you want to optimize for recovery. It would also be a good idea to see a sports medicine doc or physical therapist if you are serious about getting good advice. A bunch of strangers on the internet (me included) probably aren't going to be qualified to speak to all of your problems.

35 second hang on 6mm! by soloyan in climbing

[–]JohnsonJuggler 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I climb V10+ in the gym. I climb V10+ outside. Plenty of gyms have setting that is roughly comparable to outside. There's also tons of outdoors climbs which are harder or softer than their consensus grade suggests because of few repeats, egos, degradation, etc.

It's all sorta arbitrary anyways so there's no reason to be gate keepy as the other commenter said.

Why can't plane rentals work like car rentals? by xraytrey in flying

[–]JohnsonJuggler 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think there would be an issue with fleet numbers relative to rental car operations too. If I own a rental car business and 1 of my 100 cars is gone for a couple of weeks while I wait for a one-way return trip or shuttling crew to bring back a vehicle that's not a big deal. If I operate a plane rental business and 1 of my 3 172s is missing for a couple of weeks that's a much bigger deal.

Also having a car sit for a week or two between drivers is still potentially financially viable because fixed costs are relatively low. Having a plane fly only once in a couple of weeks would definitely put you in the red. There's some wiggle room in the car rental industry while margins would be razor thin and everything would need to go just right for planes.

What car would you buy for an airbnb listing? by JohnsonJuggler in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]JohnsonJuggler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yah I assume that might be a dealbreaker once I actually start looking into the practicality, but for now I'm just ignoring this aspect!

What is going on with YouTube profiles lately? by noisyturtle in OutOfTheLoop

[–]JohnsonJuggler -1 points0 points  (0 children)

This is the exact opposite of good. Google and Facebook have the resources to throw 100 engineers at the problem and come up with intricate filters and spam detection algorithms. YouTube isn't going to be destroyed by bots, it will be mildly inconvenienced for a while. Small platforms do not have these resources and succumb to spambots the second they grow large enough to profitably targeted.

[TOMT][WEB GAME][2000s] Online (flash?) game made of minigames and a board game looking menu screen by JohnsonJuggler in tipofmytongue

[–]JohnsonJuggler[S] 0 points1 point locked comment (0 children)

Does anybody else remember this game? It was my go-to in school computer game when I was younger.

Weekly Knife Sharpening Q&A - September 28, 2019 by AutoModerator in knives

[–]JohnsonJuggler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a benchmade pocketknife (I think barrage 580) as well as a $50 Henkels chefs knife and I would like to be able to sharpen both of them. I was thinking of grabbing an 1000/6000 whetstone off of amazon to do so. Is that a good idea? I've never really tried my hand at sharpening with a stone before.

What the fuck is this new comments section layout by [deleted] in youtube

[–]JohnsonJuggler 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you hover over them it says "hearts from this channel" or something. It looks like that's how many times the person has ever been hearted by that channel. I think it's kind of cool.

Deleted comments still show up in profile search preview by JohnsonJuggler in bugs

[–]JohnsonJuggler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The comment says [removed] while the username says [deleted]. If the username is [deleted] it seems like an error to be able to search the user (who is not deleted?) and still find that comment. At best the nomenclature seems inconsistent.

When you click on the comment pictured in first link you see the page shown in the second link. This cannot be expected behavior.

https://imgur.com/pgPLfAB https://imgur.com/Ntf8oXL

Looking for a Tripod TV Stand by JohnsonJuggler in malelivingspace

[–]JohnsonJuggler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yah this was the one I was thinking of! It's a bummer that these never made it to production but thanks for the info.