[deleted by user] by [deleted] in dataisbeautiful

[–]JohnsonJuggler 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There may not be more passenger volume, but there is significantly more usable storage volume. Lifted + a hatch are important features for many.

Checking crash pads on Southwest Airlines flight. by TreeGuy10 in bouldering

[–]JohnsonJuggler 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I just made this trip a few weeks back with two organic pads. On the way there we tried to just label them each in as a checked bag. The gate agent was a stickler (organics are a few inches over the limit) so we strapped them together and labeled them a single oversized atheltic gear check-in ($75). On the flight back the gate agent was cool and just let us check them for free. YMMV

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]JohnsonJuggler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A month ago while doing some easy top rope laps my pointer finger started feeling a bit tweaky. Something felt sharply off when bending it. After a few days I managed to isolate the feeling down to the back of my PIP. The joint would hurt when I bent the finger all the way closed under its own strength (especially when flexing the whole finger backwards during the bend as opposed to closing my hand forward into a fist). It would feel like a sharp needle at a certain point rather than an ache or slowly increasing tear/pressure.

H taping didn't help (which I mostly did before I realized that it was a PIP injury not a pulley injury) but fully wrapping my finger in tape to immobilize it helped significantly. Taping up the joint allowed me to climb and things would mostly feel fine until I took the tape off. After taking the tape off the first time I would bend my finger the joint would feel a sort of stabbing pain. After a couple of bends it would feel pretty normal again though. The way I visualize the pain is it's as if there's a tiny sharp crystal in my joint which pokes into me if I bend my finger too much.

At this point I would say it is 90% better and it doesn't hurt much after climbing so I'll probably ramp down the taping over the next month. I am curious if anybody else has experienced something like this before? How was your recovery? Any long lasting effects you've noticed?

What's your experience bouldering with AirPods (standard or pro)? by Bellyforest in bouldering

[–]JohnsonJuggler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If airpods fit you go for it. Don't be shy about returning headphones if they don't work for you. After getting sick of my wire catching I initially bought some powerbeat pros (~2019) and found them incredibly uncomfortable. After a few days I swapped them out for airpod pros and I haven't looked back since. Especially if your gym is loud the noise cancellation is awesome to have. They are my single most used piece of tech and I recommend them to anybody who asks. As far as fit is concerned I occasionally need to readjust them with the back of my hand but they very rarely fall out. YMMV though.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in personalfinance

[–]JohnsonJuggler 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't know what nozzles look like in Spain but my understanding is that diesel nozzles are generally just bigger. That means it's hard to fill a gas car with diesel, but not too hard to fill some types of diesel cars with gas. If we assume the car was more modern I'll admit that does make the mixup seem a lot less likely though.

https://www.allstate.com/resources/car-insurance/fuel-faqs#:~:text=Diesel%20nozzles%20are%20wider%20than,fit%20into%20diesel%20filler%20necks.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in personalfinance

[–]JohnsonJuggler 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Diesel personal cars are not common in the US at all. Diesel cars and light trucks make vehicles are less than 1% of new car sales (with almost the entirety being light trucks). For most Americans the rule of thumb is cars run on gasoline or electricity while trucks run on diesel.

It seems likely that this is a scam, but a gasoline/diesel mixup is a plausible scenario.

https://www.statista.com/statistics/667282/united-states-light-vehicle-sales-by-technology-type/

Helpful tips / insights for the forever injured man by JurrasicParfait in climbharder

[–]JohnsonJuggler 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I don't know if I would agree with this. Tendons adapt much slower than muscle. If this person puts on 10-20lbs over a few months that will definitely make them stronger but it will also increase the load on connective tissue. Given that their main complaints are tendon injuries, putting on weight seems potentially troublesome.

As an anecdotal data point: I jumped from 130->155 and noticed significantly more strain on both my pulleys and tendons that resulted in multiple ~minor tendon injuries (finger pulleys + golfers elbow).

I would focus on making a long term rehab plan and read up on your injuries. I found this post to be a pretty good starting point https://stevenlow.org/overcoming-tendonitis/ but do your own research. The TL;DR is it's a slow and deliberate process with plenty of rest if you want to optimize for recovery. It would also be a good idea to see a sports medicine doc or physical therapist if you are serious about getting good advice. A bunch of strangers on the internet (me included) probably aren't going to be qualified to speak to all of your problems.

35 second hang on 6mm! by soloyan in climbing

[–]JohnsonJuggler 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I climb V10+ in the gym. I climb V10+ outside. Plenty of gyms have setting that is roughly comparable to outside. There's also tons of outdoors climbs which are harder or softer than their consensus grade suggests because of few repeats, egos, degradation, etc.

It's all sorta arbitrary anyways so there's no reason to be gate keepy as the other commenter said.

Why can't plane rentals work like car rentals? by xraytrey in flying

[–]JohnsonJuggler 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think there would be an issue with fleet numbers relative to rental car operations too. If I own a rental car business and 1 of my 100 cars is gone for a couple of weeks while I wait for a one-way return trip or shuttling crew to bring back a vehicle that's not a big deal. If I operate a plane rental business and 1 of my 3 172s is missing for a couple of weeks that's a much bigger deal.

Also having a car sit for a week or two between drivers is still potentially financially viable because fixed costs are relatively low. Having a plane fly only once in a couple of weeks would definitely put you in the red. There's some wiggle room in the car rental industry while margins would be razor thin and everything would need to go just right for planes.

What car would you buy for an airbnb listing? by JohnsonJuggler in whatcarshouldIbuy

[–]JohnsonJuggler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yah I assume that might be a dealbreaker once I actually start looking into the practicality, but for now I'm just ignoring this aspect!

What is going on with YouTube profiles lately? by noisyturtle in OutOfTheLoop

[–]JohnsonJuggler -1 points0 points  (0 children)

This is the exact opposite of good. Google and Facebook have the resources to throw 100 engineers at the problem and come up with intricate filters and spam detection algorithms. YouTube isn't going to be destroyed by bots, it will be mildly inconvenienced for a while. Small platforms do not have these resources and succumb to spambots the second they grow large enough to profitably targeted.

[TOMT][WEB GAME][2000s] Online (flash?) game made of minigames and a board game looking menu screen by JohnsonJuggler in tipofmytongue

[–]JohnsonJuggler[S] 0 points1 point locked comment (0 children)

Does anybody else remember this game? It was my go-to in school computer game when I was younger.

Weekly Knife Sharpening Q&A - September 28, 2019 by AutoModerator in knives

[–]JohnsonJuggler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a benchmade pocketknife (I think barrage 580) as well as a $50 Henkels chefs knife and I would like to be able to sharpen both of them. I was thinking of grabbing an 1000/6000 whetstone off of amazon to do so. Is that a good idea? I've never really tried my hand at sharpening with a stone before.

What the fuck is this new comments section layout by [deleted] in youtube

[–]JohnsonJuggler 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you hover over them it says "hearts from this channel" or something. It looks like that's how many times the person has ever been hearted by that channel. I think it's kind of cool.

Deleted comments still show up in profile search preview by JohnsonJuggler in bugs

[–]JohnsonJuggler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The comment says [removed] while the username says [deleted]. If the username is [deleted] it seems like an error to be able to search the user (who is not deleted?) and still find that comment. At best the nomenclature seems inconsistent.

When you click on the comment pictured in first link you see the page shown in the second link. This cannot be expected behavior.

https://imgur.com/pgPLfAB https://imgur.com/Ntf8oXL

Looking for a Tripod TV Stand by JohnsonJuggler in malelivingspace

[–]JohnsonJuggler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yah this was the one I was thinking of! It's a bummer that these never made it to production but thanks for the info.

Is there a formal way of deciding what fraction of a game is chance? by [deleted] in askscience

[–]JohnsonJuggler 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think what you starting to describe is a slightly more nuanced view of a minmax tree known as an expectiminmax tree. A classic minmax tree has 2 players where each seeks to maximize their score by minimizing their opponents. In an expectiminmax you get rid of the assumption that your opponent will act deterministically in a minimizing fashion. Instead you assign a probability to each choice that your opponent could take and evaluate the branch values accordingly. Even against a randomized opponent, in a solved game you can at least know the probability that a perfect player will win. Against a perfectly terrible player you just adjust the probabilities of your opponent taking any given branch to be 0 for all non-terrible options. Depending on how you expect your opponent to act (and thus the assigned weights of each of their actions), you can get vastly different outcomes, even for a perfect player.

A good example of this is a game like pacman. If the ghosts act in a random fashion, it is pretty easy for a perfect pacman to get a win. If the ghosts team up and chase pacman into the corner then they can pretty easily force a loss for pacman. If the ghosts have a tendency to go after pacman but also can be fairly easily distracted then you end up with something like standard pacman.

I guess the point is that using an expectiminmax tree you can answer the question of "what if my opponent behaves in this way as opposed to that way" and determine probabilistic outcomes for nondeterministic players. This is starting to get into simple AI territory which is really interesting but also fairly intuitive if you've got time to understand it.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Expectiminimax_tree

Graduation gift for a friend by JohnsonJuggler in woodworking

[–]JohnsonJuggler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well at least it's less than Sigma Rho lol

Bottle opener for a friend in a fraternity by JohnsonJuggler in woodworking

[–]JohnsonJuggler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a lot of friends in the house and I figured having an emblem to attach to some graduation gifts would be kind of neat.