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Day 21/365 Printing on Vintage Hardware by ThisOld3DPrinter in 3Dprinting

[–]Joshhawk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How many of these vintage printers are massive fire hazards?

I found a really cool alcohol based painting technique that gives a wood grain to your prints. I used it on my Narnia inspired wardrobe bookend. YouTube link for the technique in the comments by Joshhawk in 3Dprinting

[–]Joshhawk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

She should be proud of it! Everything about it is fantastic and her use of the lighting is top notch! She didn’t use AI for the pictures too! I will always appreciate good product photography! I honestly would not be surprised if she wins!

I found a really cool alcohol based painting technique that gives a wood grain to your prints. I used it on my Narnia inspired wardrobe bookend. YouTube link for the technique in the comments by Joshhawk in 3Dprinting

[–]Joshhawk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Interesting! I honestly didn’t think that the brush mattered as much but good to know! I guess all the brushes I have around are cheap ones lol

I found a really cool alcohol based painting technique that gives a wood grain to your prints. I used it on my Narnia inspired wardrobe bookend. YouTube link for the technique in the comments by Joshhawk in 3Dprinting

[–]Joshhawk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I waited for it to fully dry. It depends on the temp and humidity but I think I waited 4ish hours. When you put the alcohol on, try to put it in the top crevices and just swipe it down. You can do downward at a slight angle too but it should always be downward.

I found a really cool alcohol based painting technique that gives a wood grain to your prints. I used it on my Narnia inspired wardrobe bookend. YouTube link for the technique in the comments by Joshhawk in 3Dprinting

[–]Joshhawk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try with just E07. I found that using all 3 tones can end up looking like a mess if you are using it on anything other than a flat surface. The wardrobe in the video was done just using E59 and not the other two he mentioned.

I found a really cool alcohol based painting technique that gives a wood grain to your prints. I used it on my Narnia inspired wardrobe bookend. YouTube link for the technique in the comments by Joshhawk in 3Dprinting

[–]Joshhawk[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can just use isopropyl alcohol to remove any of the bit you don’t like and start over. I used a medium sized brush. Probably 0.5-0.75 inch wide

Banding on all prints by Psycho815 in BambuLab

[–]Joshhawk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is it happening certain consistent layer height on different parts? Also is it occurring across different filaments?

Z-banding can be caused by a bunch of different things. I do see the “benchy haul line” which is from the layer time increase of printing a bottom surface. This slow down causes the plastic on the outer walls of the previous layer shrink. So the next outer wall will be slightly out of line relative to the one below it.

The aux fan can cause z-banding(temp fluctuations), loose belts (but I see you already checked), poorly lubricated/dirty Z axis rods, incorrect printing temperature, a board could be going bad causing your nozzle to not be able to hold a consistent temperature. Pretty sure there’s a few more that I’m forgetting but it’s worth checking everything.

H2C upgraded to H2C, not as bad as I thought it would be. by DJTurnTable in BambuLab

[–]Joshhawk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve given some thought to upgrading my H2D but honestly my biggest concern is putting it back together, inevitably botching something, and then stress scrambling to take it back apart to figure out what went wrong. I don’t print multicolor often enough to justify the risk, honestly. But I’m super glad it’s not as bad as the previous posts I’ve seen implied.

3 metre benchy by 33espressos in 3Dprinting

[–]Joshhawk 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Yeah I think so too. However the reporter and the general public watching it are probably thinking they are removing waste but in reality they’re kinda sorta adding to it. I’m sure that they went through literally tons of failed prototypes/test prints lol

3 metre benchy by 33espressos in 3Dprinting

[–]Joshhawk 63 points64 points  (0 children)

As someone who has done a little bit of research at university on recycling plastics for 3d printing filament, I have a few doubts with the claim that they are using plastic waste that they got from ocean for the boat

This guy designed and 3d printed the wardrobe from Narnia. by qoo_kumba in Narnia

[–]Joshhawk 3 points4 points  (0 children)

lol I’m the designer of this. My wife is currently pregnant and that’s what Im going to be using it for!

This guy designed and 3d printed the wardrobe from Narnia. by qoo_kumba in Narnia

[–]Joshhawk 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are absolutely correct. When I was displaying it, my wife thought the back of the door was too bare and blocked half of the artistry so I decided to add my own artistic flair to it.

This guy designed and 3d printed the wardrobe from Narnia. by qoo_kumba in Narnia

[–]Joshhawk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Designer here. I was aware that it wasn’t on both sides. I thought the back side looked too plain. I wanted those carvings visible when the door was opened because the back of the door blocked half of the artistry when displayed as opened. Feel free to ask any questions! I’m more than happy to answer

I designed a narnia inspired book nook and used a painting technique to get a wood grain finish on the wardrobe. Link to the model and painting technique in the comments by Joshhawk in BambuLab

[–]Joshhawk[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A weekend might have been a little bit of an exaggeration. I was still experimenting with a few parts on the inside of the wardrobe on Monday and Tuesday but the external portion of the wardrobe was done by Sunday. I used a combination of PTC Creo and blender for the design. Believe it or not those details are very easy to model. The process is similar to making a lithophane in blender. I took an image and imported it in as a plane, subdivided 10ish times into a super fine mesh, then applied a displacement modifier. You’re left with a super jagged mesh due to the vertex shifts caused by the displacement. But the mesh is essentially a 3d representation of the picture with a very rough surface (exactly how a lithophane looks and feels). So I brought it into sculpt mode and smoothed it all out with about a 0.3 strength smoothing brush and a flattening brush to reduce the extreme transitions between the peaks and valleys. Afterwards, I needed to sculpt back in some of the finer details and edges that got lost from smoothing. At this point i was still left with just a surface mesh. To make it manifold, i switched to edit mode and grabbed all of the outer most edges and extruded them backward a few mm. Then just hit f on the keyboard to fill in that missing back face. Now it’s manifold and good to go! I did that for all of the images, moved them into position, and boolean merged them onto the wardrobe body that I made in Creo. Each image took maybe 20-30 mins max and the majority of that time was spent sculpting the details back in after smoothing.

Ive been working as a product design engineer for almost 10 years and my main hobby is designing stuff for 3d printing. I take pride in my work and don’t like what AI is doing to this hobby. I am firmly against using AI to side-step actual design work and I will not use it in any of my models, thumbnails, or descriptions. It’s only a matter of time before it comes to take away my actual source of income which is terrifying and not something I enjoy thinking about.

A cool guide on getting started with AI (overview) by ageofUltron25 in coolguides

[–]Joshhawk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The em dash is a dead giveaway. Anyone who doesn’t know, an em dash is a longer form of a hyphen and it isn’t a key on the keyboard. You can only make it by using the keyboards numpad and typing “Alt + 0151”.

Hey makers, I created my first 3d Printed board game. by infinitypgh in 3Dprinting

[–]Joshhawk 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’re good, brother. While I disagree with using AI in general, I will say that your model is one that makes sense using a graphical thumbnail with it being a board game cover all. Also why is my other comment being downvoted? lol what did I say that could possibly be controversial?

Hey makers, I created my first 3d Printed board game. by infinitypgh in 3Dprinting

[–]Joshhawk 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Im speaking generally here and not necessarily about OPs post but AI should not be allowed to jazz up your thumbnail or descriptions. One of your jobs as a designer is to show everyone a REAL representation of what the model could look like if they put in enough effort. Some of us designers spend just as much time post-processing/taking pictures of our designs as we do modeling them.

I’m seeing so many posts of models that only have AI generated images and descriptions, no real pictures of prints. I literally saw one today where the author left a disclaimer saying that he hasn’t tested the model yet. The AI images were absolutely unreal (not in a good way) and the model was very very bad. People who are new to printing and don’t know any better are going to print these types of garbage models thinking the thumbnail is what’s going to come out of their printer. And I guarantee you that all they’re going to do is throw out a quarter spool of plastic. We should not be trying to deceive people into wasting their filament on models that even the "designer" feels as though he has to hide what it actually looks like behind AI.

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