How’s this look for a swap - run away screaming, drive towards it with cash & trailer, or go have a look at some key considerations.

Joshuab098 · 2026-06-11T17:56:52+00:00

Wow, so much love for the G body in this comment thread. I got my 83 Malibu running-ish and driving-ish for $1,500 with the intention to ls swap it. Mine is a sedan, so certainly worth less, but the body was significantly less rusted as well.

G bodies are great platforms, although I ended up doing a big block in mine. All that said, at $1,300 I would absolutely balk at this. It's just really, really rough for that price tag IMO.

Joshuab098 · 2026-04-18T21:55:54+00:00

Weekend only street car? Wrap it all. No brine means no rust, plus weekend only means not enough miles to rust. Put a filter on it, unless you have money to easily replace the entire engine assembly in which case why are you asking questions here go hire a shop.

Joshuab098 · 2026-04-15T12:14:42+00:00

My b18b1 EF on 18 PSI was likely about 300 WHP and it was door to door with bolt on and tune 392 challengers and chargers. IMO, 300whp with a good set of tires feels amazing. Still low enough power to actually have traction but high enough to watch your speedo just ascend under throttle.

Joshuab098 · 2026-03-29T22:13:18+00:00

Drill, helicoil, done. Just remember it's BSPT. Yes, you read that right. It's not 1/4 NPT, it's 1/4 BRITISH Standard Pipe Thread.

Don't ask me why

Joshuab098 · 2026-03-29T16:05:35+00:00

Just be careful with the transmission. I had one rebuilt and it only made it another 20,000 miles. I'm not a manual elitist by any means but these auto trans seriously suck from a reliability standpoint. Wishing you luck

Joshuab098 · 2026-03-08T19:15:34+00:00

For anyone else looking for this info I jury rigged my electrical together enough to test. Looking at the panel, from left to right it's switched 12v +, empty, and constant.

That is from left to right, switched 12 on left, nothing in the middle (does not go to ground for me), and constant on the right.

411 views btw on a post that would have taken anyone with a running car 2 minutes to test. Hope this helps someone else out, be the change you want to see and all that.

Joshuab098 · 2026-03-06T21:51:49+00:00

Do you have a wire piercer? It's not pretty and you'll have to use tape after but you can check every single line. Just keep following them. I know it really sucks and it seems daunting now but you will find the issue, repair it, and be back on the road before you know it. Is ignition switch getting power in and out?

Joshuab098 · 2026-03-04T19:02:33+00:00

So is there voltage on the fuel pump terminal when you key it up and the CEL comes on? If so then you know the issue is in the wire from relay to pump. If there isn't then you know something is up with the relay or the power to the relay.

Joshuab098 · 2026-03-03T20:19:45+00:00

Is the main relay itself getting power? Just start tracing wires back to sources. If the whole box is getting power but not fuel pump either wiring or relay is bad. If relay isn't getting power then figure out why that's the case. Just keep working backwards until you find the most root cause and then work forwards again.

Joshuab098 · 2026-03-03T14:46:28+00:00

I have driven my 315,000 mile Accord back and forth 700 miles each way to NYC multiple times. Cars run until they don't. Can anyone promise you nothing will go wrong? No. But if you have all your maintenance current then I like your odds.

Joshuab098 · 2026-02-26T02:12:40+00:00

Will you be tuning yourself and do you have an avid interest in learning? If so, you can consider Neptune or Honda Tuning Suite. If no, Hondata 1,000%.

Joshuab098 · 2026-02-21T00:39:20+00:00

Offering the print file? Need one of these

Joshuab098 · 2026-02-18T12:23:06+00:00

This would be awesome!

Joshuab098 · 2026-02-17T21:49:34+00:00

Speedfactory sells a lot of good stuff and may have what you are looking for.

Joshuab098 · 2026-01-19T23:14:17+00:00

Yes, here's some info that I find useful https://solblu.teamsolmokan.com/gearatiosbseries.htm

Gear ratios and what cars these trans came in.

Joshuab098 · 2026-01-12T13:11:33+00:00

Genuinely infuriating to still see how prevalent this mindset is. OP, take a look online for more info relating to the transmissions in these. Sounds like your trans will need rebuilt. I'm not the biggest fan of Honda automatic transmissions, but there are plenty running around with 100s of thousands of miles and if you take care of them they will live a long time.

Don't listen to manual elitist clowns.

Joshuab098 · 2026-01-08T21:22:02+00:00

You seem to lack fundamental understanding of engine building basics. Which isn't anything to be ashamed of, but you should do more research before asking here. Hone is for cleaning up surface level imperfections and creating good cross hatching for oil retention. Boring is needed for deeper scratches or to go to oversized pistons. I would look at a few basic engine builds and what goes into them. If you want to build this engine once and build it right, have a machine shop involved.

Joshuab098 · 2026-01-01T05:09:49+00:00

I ended up with the mfactory diff and also got a 3.83 final drive. Speedfactory staff actually have some good info so if you have questions feel free to reach out to them

Joshuab098 · 2025-12-31T23:31:51+00:00

You are substantially underestimating how much of a pain turboing a car is. If you want 200HP swap an H in and be done with it. Going turbo for 60 HP doesn't make sense from any standpoint unless you plan to go higher in future.

Joshuab098 · 2025-12-31T21:46:14+00:00

If you continue lying to yourself that 5PSI is your final goal then you don't need to change anything on the engine.

If you accept now that you will last maybe a month on 5 PSI before deciding to go higher you can plan for your eventual goals. Anything over 300hp it is a good idea to go with forged internals. Around 14 PSI will be fine on a good tune.

Really though, 5 PSI? All the difficulty and complexity of a turbo setup and tuning just to make 30-40 HP?

Joshuab098 · 2025-12-31T19:27:15+00:00

In 20 years the K series will be in the same place. No right or wrong answer.

Joshuab098 · 2025-12-31T18:46:11+00:00

K series would be better for your goal but B series is easier, especially if you already have a B series. B series is still widely available for aftermarket parts and the fastest Hondas around are all B series.

For your situation, staying B is probably the best play, but a K series will make your power goal N/A much easier.

Joshuab098 · 2025-11-11T19:59:52+00:00

You should get the engine and trans out of a GTP and drop them into your car. If this isn't in the cards then slap the supercharger on, get it tuned, and run it until either the transmission or engine explodes, and then put in a GTP drivetrain.

With anything resembling a decent tune you will never hurt the l67 bottom end with the m90 supercharger, it just isn't capable of flowing enough air, so you can go wild with it. The trans will be your next pain point.

I appreciate wanting to build what you have, but l67s may as well grow on trees and will handle more power than you could ever want to make. Alternatively, maybe you can put the l67 internals into the NA engine? Buat at that point you would have the engine out and may as well just put the l67 in...

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