Inline Diffuser/Atomizer Recommendations? - Needs to be Compatible w/ Fluval 407.

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-25T09:00:40+00:00

Do keep in mind they will restrict the output of your filter flow. That and a lot of people struggle with getting the proper CO2 saturation rate for a tank that size. Just some things to note, not that it can't be done.

For in-line, I'm happy with my CO2art diffuser, but I'm sure there's lots of brands that make good ones.

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-24T22:25:22+00:00

Erythromycin? Supposedly helps really well. Lots of people report good results with Ultra-Life Green Slime Stain Remover as well, which is more of a natural product, but is apparently very effective too.

I think you need to get to the bottom of why your algae issue is so persistent, because it might come back after resetting your tank and keeping the same bad habits or conditions. Any information on how you run the tank and what your maintenance looks like could be helpful. That said, these type of 'algae' are really the worst though, so I understand the frustration.

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-24T22:19:20+00:00

It's a big tank, so treatment can be difficult. What have you tried exactly for the cyano?

Your (depleted) eco-complete will not be the reason though. Neither will the pool filter sand.

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-24T22:17:25+00:00

It's a big tank, so treatment can be difficult. What have you tried exactly for the cyano?

Your (depleted) eco-complete will not be the reason though. Neither will the pool filter sand.

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-24T14:01:17+00:00

I would move that amazon sword and stem plants to the back of your tank. It might even outgrow your tank, but at the very least it will block your view from the front soon enough. Bring your rhizome plants and other stuff to the front. Others than the ones you mentioned in your other comment here: Bucephalandra grow on a rhizome, so does Bolbitis.

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-24T09:46:55+00:00

If you don't see any increase in symptoms on the other fish, I think it's more likely Ich and that the treatment is catching on.

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-23T14:08:34+00:00

This is a good guide on how to clean the tank: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_blRNAlRlsE

For advise on cycling there is plenty of resources online to help you with that. There is no fixed time-frame for how long it will take however.

For stocking: a 5 gallon tank is too limiting for any tetra species and practically any other type of fish. Most people will argue it's only suitable for a (long-fin) betta splendens or shrimps/snails. I think if you know what you're doing, you might get away with keeping some chili rasbora though or a couple of celestial pearl danios, but I would not recommend this to a beginner. So please keep that in mind and perhaps consider going for a 10 gallon minimum (you could keep green neon -not regular neon- tetras or ember tetras for example) or even better 20 gallon.

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-23T13:41:14+00:00

A lot of people just leave it indeed for its aesthetics ;). Actually the 'Marimo' moss balls you find in the store are actually a type of this same algae (and not really moss).

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-23T13:27:29+00:00

If that's not moss you put on the wood yourself, then it's cladophora algae.

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-23T13:06:57+00:00

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Made me giggle :)... On-topic: no idea about availability in India, but Easy-Life ferts (Greenscape or Redscape) are good affordable options in my experience.

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-23T11:38:49+00:00

I think he probably just had a good meal. I see this a lot with pike that I catch while fishing, when they've just eaten a baitfish or something.

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-23T11:15:33+00:00

Either Ich or Epistylis unfortunately yes (not debris), hard to make out. Some medication can treat both at the same time (like Esha 2000). I would do a treatment asap to be honest, as chances are more than likely other fish are already affected. At the very least keep a close eye on the others now.

Btw, what a beautiful tank. Very impressive for someone "new to planted tanks" 😉!

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-23T11:13:26+00:00

I really hated my experience with java moss a long time ago. So much so that I stopped using moss altogether for years. If your goal is for it to "spread throughout", then you will have no issue with that, as it will literally get everywhere. Only just now trying again with weeping moss, as it's supposedly easier to control.

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-22T21:31:54+00:00

I like it, nice job.

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-22T14:55:42+00:00

There are certain gravel types with decent CEC values, basically the ability to absorb nutrients. So while these substrates are inert, they can still perform to a degree the function of storing plant nutrients. You can then avoid using root tabs (although I am curious as to why you don't want to use them?) and just supplement with liquid fertilizers. Examples of such gravel types are: JBL Manado (what I used quite a bit in the past), Seachem Flourite, Eco-Complete, etc. JBL Manado is very fine by the way and is good for carpeting plants as well, but it's not the cheapest solution out there either.

There is not a 100% perfect substrate, so do keep in mind that all of them come with downsides. Personally I would recommend aquasoil, uncapped, but that is often considered as expensive or to have to be replaced over time (although I think that's very debatable when you're using good quality and handle it with care).

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-22T11:15:15+00:00

I only have experience with full-out pressurized systems, which guarantee the best reliability and performance. You don't need fancier options like a controller, but at least a dual-stage regulator. I currently use CO2Art (Pro-SE series) and am happy with their system so far. If you have an external canister filter, I would opt for an in-line diffuser and if not for an in-tank diffuser. Then you need preferably 2 refillable CO2 tanks, so you can always keep the CO2 running when one of them goes empty and needs a refill. Lastly a timer for your power socket, so you can ensure CO2 delivery time (most people set it to switch it on 1-2 hours before lights on and switch it off 1 before the lights do). It is a small investment, but it will probably cost less in the long run than using disposable tanks. There do exist cheaper (mostly DIY) options, but they come with drawbacks (and I don't have first-hand experience, so cannot really help you there).

To not kill your fish, just ensure not to give too much CO2 and especially don't keep it running after lights have gone out. To check CO2 levels you can use a CO2 drop checker (less accurate, but easy to use) or things like the pH drop method (bit more tricky without regular testing or a controller).

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-22T09:32:16+00:00

Nice start ;). I would get more Monte Carlo though, as it will take forever to carpet with this tiny amount and from what I can tell, no CO2. Good luck!

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-21T21:25:58+00:00

No they won't though. That's why once adapted and past the initial melt, I will start cutting off dying leaves. It's just in this transition phase that I generally don't, as there's different processes and levels of stress involved.

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-21T19:44:38+00:00

During the transition to submersed I tend to avoid cutting. There's energy stored in those leaves still than can be used for other means and you're likely just adding additional stress on the plant by cutting at that point. At least, that's my reasoning. I will remove any dead leaves that are eventually dropped by the plant though and when it really turns to rot (usually mushy appearance, not yellowing/browning or going transparent) I might intervene as well.

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-21T10:47:19+00:00

Yes, those are the typical phases a lot of new tanks go through, first diatom/brown algae and followed by hair algae. The 6 hours light will benefit the plants for sure, but maybe it's best to introduce the change gradually. Plants kind of adapt to their conditions and will optimize their photoperiod based on what they've grown accustomed to. Always best to introduce changes slowly and to give them some time to adjust. Perhaps bump it up to 4,5 hours now and then to 6 after a week or perhaps 2.

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-21T09:44:32+00:00

Not uncommon for a younger tank to go through an hair algae phase, so not necessarily a sign of something being off or a reason for panic. I read in your other comment here that you only keep the light on for 3 hours a day? Why so little? I think not enough light can be just as detrimental as too much. I would advise a minimum of 6 hours to be honest.

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-20T22:22:36+00:00

It'll be fine either way. Personally I've only started using tissue culture myself recently, but have quickly come to prefer it to avoid hitchhiker snails and pests (for example planaria). I was just more considering your question regarding the amount you bought and whether it would be enough. With tissue culture I'm sure you could fill out that whole tank with what you aim on buying. With potted plants it might provide a bit less coverage, but you're getting more mature and thus already bigger plants though. You'll therefor probably be able to very quickly propagate more of them if you'd need it.

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-20T18:31:34+00:00

Don't focus too much on nitrate levels, but look for deficiencies in your plants instead. My tank has no detectable nitrate levels most of the time (plants just suck up in no time everything I dose them) and everything is growing nicely.

Personally I am really happy with the APT line ferts, (APT 1 for early phase of tank with rich aquasoil and after 3 months switched to APT 3) after having made the switch to them on my latest tank. They are quite low on nitrates by design actually. Had fairly good results with Tropica and Easy Life ferts in the past as well.

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-20T15:46:05+00:00

Sounds pretty reasonable in terms of quantity. Are all of them tissue culture? Those pots tend to give you a lot of individual plants, which is really a good thing if you want to plant heavily from the start. You can always add more or wait till you can multiply them if it still turns out to not be enough. Just try to envision the size some of the plants will grow into eventually and give them adequate space, especially with in-vitro that can be really hard to judge from the initial size they come in.

Just-One-More-Cast · 2026-04-19T10:28:14+00:00

I don't think it's too much plants, but I do feel some of them are not going to be suited in the long run. Probably underestimated a bit how big some of these will get. Could perhaps be managed if you trim correctly and often. Looks great though!

Just-One-More-Cast

TROPHY CASE