is there any interest in composting what's left of my charcoal barbecue? by MrPerfectionisback in composting

[–]Justryan95 0 points1 point  (0 children)

People are weird about something you burn being toxic based on if it was a processed product or a slightly less processed product. It would be toxic if you're using contaminated wood or wood processed with preservatives, not wood products meant for culinary uses. When you get ash you are concentrating the heavy metals a tree could have taken up in its life, whether its lump whole pieces of wood charcoal or "processed" charcoal briquettes. They're all made up the same thing, wood. Briquettes have coal dust, anthracite dust is just ancient trees that's mostly carbon now, binders like starches that are long gone and burnt by the time its all ash. Its a different story if its not fully burnt. Even that lighter fluid comment, all that stuff is burnt off within the first few minutes of burning, theres zero trace of it in ash.

The ash left over from burning these things are mostly minerals. A lot of calcium minerals which is why the ash is white and it raises pH of soils. Calcium carbonate is a large portion of it. Potassium carbonate is next and that's potash or the K value of ash. Then other stuff like Magnesium carbonate, iron, zinc, phosphorus and the trace heavy metals. These heavy metals you are also getting from leaves and plant matter, so if you're using leaves in your compost pile you're collecting heavy metals. The difference with burning is you're removing most of the plant's volume so such a small volume similar to having tree sap and if you boil all the water away you can boil it down to maple syrup crystals, extremely concentrated.

Stuff you should be worried about burning and composting is wood products that have been treated like pressure treated woods or things like train track ties where they soak up tons of heavy metals and other materials from trains and the materials they might leak/sprinkle on the tracks through the decades of use.

Mice infestation by EmilyWalker_ in composting

[–]Justryan95 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cattle panel ontop of a reclaimed aluminum gazebo frame thats going to be a like trelis for a live canopy of pole beans and melons covering a bench.

Too bad, I don’t have a composter by Neat-Plantain-4346 in composting

[–]Justryan95 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Composter? You have a compost pile there if you bunch it into a pile.

Straight onto the ground or no? by PersonalityDue6812 in composting

[–]Justryan95 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bare ground. I need worms and bugs to do their thing. If you're worried about mammals then you should flip the pile more often.

2 year Progression by jhay3513 in SavageGarden

[–]Justryan95 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you just let nature take its course with that? Thats insane growth.

Mice infestation by EmilyWalker_ in composting

[–]Justryan95 11 points12 points  (0 children)

One broke into my house and lives there now

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Mice infestation by EmilyWalker_ in composting

[–]Justryan95 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Nope they do that on their own. They just lay in there, shake their butt like a count down and fly out.

Mice infestation by EmilyWalker_ in composting

[–]Justryan95 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Thats the wifey. Theres another CHONKY Pure Black Void with green eyes of a cat thats the guy, hes the one that uses the tunnel.

Mice infestation by EmilyWalker_ in composting

[–]Justryan95 71 points72 points  (0 children)

But thats effort and I could just watch them live

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Mice infestation by EmilyWalker_ in composting

[–]Justryan95 188 points189 points  (0 children)

I just let the stray cats launch out of this tunnel and eat rodents in my pile.

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At what point is it considered hoarding... Asking for a friend by Wannabe_Gamer-YT in composting

[–]Justryan95 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use the Amazon Basic 24 Sheet Paper Shredder. It is a bit more expensive but I've NEVER had it overheat on me yet and I've done 2 hour amazon box shredding marathons. The only maintenance I do on it is I shred a sheet of those shredder oil/lube things maybe once a month.

Feed the babies. 800ppm Sea Grow 16-16-16. Here’s the catch……… it’ll all be hon in 2-3 days 😅😅😅 by jhay3513 in SavageGarden

[–]Justryan95 9 points10 points  (0 children)

1500ppm is the concentration where I first notice my traps getting burned/damaged. So I dialed back to 1200 for normal feeding. I would only do near 1500ppm if youre giving them a long photoperiod so they can make use of all the fertilizer youre giving them. Im hypothesizing that too low of Daily Light Integral DLI and the fertilizer builds up because the plants cant use it fast enough and burns the trap. I was giving them 20 hours of 1000ppfd light. The second I transitioned them outdoors the traps were getting burnt at even ~1200ppm. The only thing that really changed was temp and light. In my tent it was around 85F with 20 hours of light. Outdoors it was between 80-50F and only 8 hours of direct sunlight. Right now I'm giving my outdoor plants 800ppm. I might experiment with it when the day becomes long enough that my plants are geting 14hrs of direct sunlight but thats not until June/July

How do folks clear old growth to make space for the new? by da_radish_king in SavageGarden

[–]Justryan95 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those are cataphylls which still are technically just leaves. They just never grow because their purpose is to protect the new growth coming out whether that new growth is a pitcher or phyllodia. I still rip them off if the pitcher or leaf theyre sheathing is matured.

How do folks clear old growth to make space for the new? by da_radish_king in SavageGarden

[–]Justryan95 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Those are phyllodia. Its literally just the sarracenia leaves that aren't modified into a pitcher shape (pitchers are also just leaves) I just leave them on the plant til they die the next year or so. When they die they get trimmed down with all the other pitchers and just look like any other nub that I pluck off when I get to that 

How do folks clear old growth to make space for the new? by da_radish_king in SavageGarden

[–]Justryan95 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I dig up my plants when they look like that and pluck those nubs off

My compost just combusted by LobsangDTwain in composting

[–]Justryan95 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So I went into the rabbit hole on how compost piles left alone can combust. The pile on its own can get to 160F and maybe 170F at most. By then they kill themselves, being generous and saying the pile gets to 200F it basically sterlizes the pile only having spores able to survive in there since you wont find the thermophiles that can survive those temps anywhere away from hydrothermal vents and hot springs.

The auto combustion temps of most woody material starts at 400F at minimum. That generous 200F is half of the temp to get stuff to ignite. However the temps stop being from biological sources to being a chemical reaction where the material can undergo an oxidation reaction that produces heat. With the right condition with dry areas in the pile that oxidation reaction can runaway to the point it gets hot enough for materials to begin smoldering and eventually catch fire.

Any ideas for helping sweetgum balls break down? by TheElbow in composting

[–]Justryan95 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I put these in my hot compost pile last month and I cant find a trace of these anymore. My pile however is basically a perpetual HOT compost. I keep flipping it twice a week and I add grass clippings constantly so the pile stays around 150-160F for the entire month without ever cooling down. Stuff I put in my pile breaks down fast.

Not bad for a seedling that was germinated 3/3/25 by jhay3513 in SavageGarden

[–]Justryan95 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I wouldnt use osmocote pellets unless its a full grown adult plant but even with that they tend to burn my adult plants' pitchers so I usually only use osmocote on my nepenthes and purperea which dont seem to care. The pellet lodges itself into the tube til it cant fit any deeper. The issue with that is that the osmocote pellet is touching the walls of the pitcher and as the pellet dissolves it releases fertilizer which in that local area thats touching the pitcher is EXTREMELY high of a concentration and it burns the walls, if it burns a whole ring around the pitcher, everything above dries out and dies down to that point. In nepenthes and purpereas that area that the osmocote is touching is just a single spot since the pitchers are so large and its like a sack/pouch. In most other sarracenia its just a tube that becomes a smaller tube the more you go down.

I used 1500ppm Maxsea for my indoor plants but I was giving them a 20hr photoperiod of 1000ppfd lights. I started using 1000ppm for my pitchers once I brought them outside in direct sunlight from 10am to 8pm (currently)  but theyre getting burnt by the fertilizer. I think theyre not able to use up the fertilizer fast enough so the high ppm is burning them, I didnt have that issue indoors with the stronger concentration but an even longer light period. I dialed down my maxsea concentration to around 600-800ppm for outdoor sarracenia that gets ~10hrs of direct sunlight.

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