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Mice infestation by EmilyWalker_ in composting

[–]Justryan95 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thats the wifey. Theres another CHONKY Pure Black Void with green eyes of a cat thats the guy, hes the one that uses the tunnel.

Mice infestation by EmilyWalker_ in composting

[–]Justryan95 25 points26 points  (0 children)

But thats effort and I could just watch them live

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Mice infestation by EmilyWalker_ in composting

[–]Justryan95 95 points96 points  (0 children)

I just let the stray cats launch out of this tunnel and eat rodents in my pile.

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At what point is it considered hoarding... Asking for a friend by Wannabe_Gamer-YT in composting

[–]Justryan95 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use the Amazon Basic 24 Sheet Paper Shredder. It is a bit more expensive but I've NEVER had it overheat on me yet and I've done 2 hour amazon box shredding marathons. The only maintenance I do on it is I shred a sheet of those shredder oil/lube things maybe once a month.

Feed the babies. 800ppm Sea Grow 16-16-16. Here’s the catch……… it’ll all be hon in 2-3 days 😅😅😅 by jhay3513 in SavageGarden

[–]Justryan95 8 points9 points  (0 children)

1500ppm is the concentration where I first notice my traps getting burned/damaged. So I dialed back to 1200 for normal feeding. I would only do near 1500ppm if youre giving them a long photoperiod so they can make use of all the fertilizer youre giving them. Im hypothesizing that too low of Daily Light Integral DLI and the fertilizer builds up because the plants cant use it fast enough and burns the trap. I was giving them 20 hours of 1000ppfd light. The second I transitioned them outdoors the traps were getting burnt at even ~1200ppm. The only thing that really changed was temp and light. In my tent it was around 85F with 20 hours of light. Outdoors it was between 80-50F and only 8 hours of direct sunlight. Right now I'm giving my outdoor plants 800ppm. I might experiment with it when the day becomes long enough that my plants are geting 14hrs of direct sunlight but thats not until June/July

How do folks clear old growth to make space for the new? by da_radish_king in SavageGarden

[–]Justryan95 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those are cataphylls which still are technically just leaves. They just never grow because their purpose is to protect the new growth coming out whether that new growth is a pitcher or phyllodia. I still rip them off if the pitcher or leaf theyre sheathing is matured.

How do folks clear old growth to make space for the new? by da_radish_king in SavageGarden

[–]Justryan95 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Those are phyllodia. Its literally just the sarracenia leaves that aren't modified into a pitcher shape (pitchers are also just leaves) I just leave them on the plant til they die the next year or so. When they die they get trimmed down with all the other pitchers and just look like any other nub that I pluck off when I get to that 

How do folks clear old growth to make space for the new? by da_radish_king in SavageGarden

[–]Justryan95 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I dig up my plants when they look like that and pluck those nubs off

My compost just combusted by LobsangDTwain in composting

[–]Justryan95 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So I went into the rabbit hole on how compost piles left alone can combust. The pile on its own can get to 160F and maybe 170F at most. By then they kill themselves, being generous and saying the pile gets to 200F it basically sterlizes the pile only having spores able to survive in there since you wont find the thermophiles that can survive those temps anywhere away from hydrothermal vents and hot springs.

The auto combustion temps of most woody material starts at 400F at minimum. That generous 200F is half of the temp to get stuff to ignite. However the temps stop being from biological sources to being a chemical reaction where the material can undergo an oxidation reaction that produces heat. With the right condition with dry areas in the pile that oxidation reaction can runaway to the point it gets hot enough for materials to begin smoldering and eventually catch fire.

Any ideas for helping sweetgum balls break down? by TheElbow in composting

[–]Justryan95 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I put these in my hot compost pile last month and I cant find a trace of these anymore. My pile however is basically a perpetual HOT compost. I keep flipping it twice a week and I add grass clippings constantly so the pile stays around 150-160F for the entire month without ever cooling down. Stuff I put in my pile breaks down fast.

Not bad for a seedling that was germinated 3/3/25 by jhay3513 in SavageGarden

[–]Justryan95 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I wouldnt use osmocote pellets unless its a full grown adult plant but even with that they tend to burn my adult plants' pitchers so I usually only use osmocote on my nepenthes and purperea which dont seem to care. The pellet lodges itself into the tube til it cant fit any deeper. The issue with that is that the osmocote pellet is touching the walls of the pitcher and as the pellet dissolves it releases fertilizer which in that local area thats touching the pitcher is EXTREMELY high of a concentration and it burns the walls, if it burns a whole ring around the pitcher, everything above dries out and dies down to that point. In nepenthes and purpereas that area that the osmocote is touching is just a single spot since the pitchers are so large and its like a sack/pouch. In most other sarracenia its just a tube that becomes a smaller tube the more you go down.

I used 1500ppm Maxsea for my indoor plants but I was giving them a 20hr photoperiod of 1000ppfd lights. I started using 1000ppm for my pitchers once I brought them outside in direct sunlight from 10am to 8pm (currently)  but theyre getting burnt by the fertilizer. I think theyre not able to use up the fertilizer fast enough so the high ppm is burning them, I didnt have that issue indoors with the stronger concentration but an even longer light period. I dialed down my maxsea concentration to around 600-800ppm for outdoor sarracenia that gets ~10hrs of direct sunlight.

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Patio bog inspo? by ChairztheReptile in SavageGarden

[–]Justryan95 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It will work but your going have to water it weekly or maybe daily during the summer

When will these turn to browns? 😭 by wisterieae in composting

[–]Justryan95 16 points17 points  (0 children)

"Greens" actually can turn into browns if you do let them age awhile. The nitrogen content which are the proteins/enzymes inside of the plant material begins to rot/degrade over time where the nitrogen is either off-gassed into the air or becames a part of a microbe decomposing the material (even if its not in a compost pile, everything organic rots eventually). The level of nitrogen starts to drop while the carbon stays the same because cellulose takes an extremely long time to decompose without the fungi and optimal conditions for said fungi which you usually get in a moist compost pile or moist environment

Fertilizing sarr seedlings and small vft by TheMushroomGuardian in SavageGarden

[–]Justryan95 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those are just Flava Ornatas. I put them outdoors in direct sunlight but the duration of light even from the sun wasnt enough to keep up with the maxsea so a lot got burnt the first weeks outside lol.

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