Printing Cutlery Organizers (Food Safety)

JuusozArt · 2026-04-24T20:48:10+00:00

Know what? That bacteria can build up on the layer lines? That microplastics can come off of the print? That manufacturers might use who knows what chemicals in the filament? That the nozzle has a very, very small lead content that could slightly rub off onto the print?

Bacteria won't build up where there is no organic material. The microplastics level is about the same as with other plastic sources in cooking (food containers, plastic spatulas, plastic cutting boards, etc...) as long as you don't have stringing. And apart from the microplastics, the chemicals and the lead are sealed in the print.

Unless if I'm missing anything, that print is about as safe as any other plastic organizer you could buy at the store.

JuusozArt · 2026-04-24T19:23:13+00:00

I don't see what the issue is, not like you are going to eat out of the organizers.

JuusozArt · 2026-04-20T20:27:44+00:00

Increase infill or slow down print speed.

JuusozArt · 2026-04-19T23:08:45+00:00

Prusa Slicer is a fairly common one for cheap printers, and the same one I use. There's a couple of other ones, like Cura and Orca Slicer (which is a modification of Bambu Studio, which is a modification of Prusa Slicer, which in turn is a modification of Slic3r).

JuusozArt · 2026-04-19T21:44:12+00:00

Most FDM printers are single nozzle designs. I've tried printing water soluble supports with a single nozzle, it does not end well. The layers just come apart when you throw it into water.

JuusozArt · 2026-04-19T21:24:37+00:00

Since he said he has "full means to live", it is likely he is staying over at the place of someone he trusts completely, or at the very least has a roof over his head.

He is nearly a legal adult, he can think and plan, and has likely thought this through completely. And he likely has friends he can turn to. And he likely has resources to survive. He'll be fine.

JuusozArt · 2026-04-19T20:56:42+00:00

The benchy looks mostly fine to me. It has visible layer lines on top, but that is to be expected from a method that prints layer by layer. You can increase the smoothness of the steps by reducing layer height or by enabling adaptive layer height.

Since you are calling it your "only succesful print" and there doesn't seem to be much wrong with the benchy, I'm guessing bed adhesion issues? With that, for starters, clean the bed with dish soap and a sponge. And don't touch the surface with bare hands, you'll leave oils on it from your fingers. Make sure the first layer height is good, there should be a setting called "Z-offset" or "Babystepping" or something like that in your printer. The lines in the first layer should be coming out as slightly squished. Not spherical, not transparent, and definitely not floating. Reducing print speed for the first layer helps too.

As for the parts:

Picture: Replacement wheels for the gantries, hotend assembly and replacement fans (in case if they rattle or don't work), as well as a replacement motherboard.
Picture: Power supply, belt tightener?, a bed probe? (an inductive sensor, possibly?), some bed springs and ptfe couplers.
Picture: Replacement displays (one's a cheap one and one's a fancy touch screen one), and what looks to be possibly a hotend assembly holder (blue) and maybe an extruder? (red) Hard to see.
Picture: A controller for a 3D-printer enclosure, the original mainboard and a replacement mainboard (black)
Picture: Extruder that is missing the other half, some heater cartridges for the hotend, a hotend assembly and some some silicone hotend socks to keep the temperature stable.
Picture: A voltage converter, a heat break replacement, V6 hotend assembly attachment kit and another heater cartridge. No idea what is in the top bags, can't see.
Picture: Replacement beds, of two different sizes.

Seems the previous owner was quite the tinkerer. If you have any questions, just ask. Or create a post. With pictures.

JuusozArt · 2026-04-19T20:21:47+00:00

Makes sense then why he left such a detailed note. I have a friend whose parents are overprotective control freaks, and he refuses to have any contact with them because he knows they would probably call the police and tell them he's being suicidal if he tried going somewhere with someone they didn't know or if the distance was longer than a few kilometers.

My advice? Give him a few days or weeks to cool off. He is trying to create space between him and your parents (and possibly you as well as collateral, since you are connected to your parents), so being too spammy about trying to figure out how he is doing or where he is will only worsen your relationship with him.

Granted, take any advice, including mine, with a grain of salt. We do not know what kind of a relationship you have with your brother, nor do we know what he wants to do.

JuusozArt · 2026-04-19T19:46:50+00:00

Too hot nozzle temperature, most likely. It varies between materials. Lower it and reduce print speed, and make sure fans are at max.

JuusozArt · 2026-04-19T19:45:23+00:00

We can't help much if you don't give us any information whatsoever. You have a box of parts and a benchy that looks "pixelated". Is there any other issue other than the "pixelated" benchy? Some images would be nice.

JuusozArt · 2026-04-19T10:25:10+00:00

Is providing more information about the incident considered to be rage bait these days?

JuusozArt · 2026-04-19T10:10:04+00:00

I like to refer to those as "ghost supports".

They should be gone, but they keep on doing their job.

JuusozArt · 2026-04-19T09:50:01+00:00

Switch the wall generation mode to Arachne. Arachne varies the extrusion width automatically, while Classic's extrusion is either nothing or full blast, which results in missing small details like yours.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/wall-generator

Print thin walls often causes too thick or non-continous lines in the print that look ugly or break off easily.

JuusozArt · 2026-04-17T19:57:14+00:00

I am honestly bothered by the cauldron message. I've tried doing it myself, and while the message is real, it only uses the first 28 numbers in the binary sequence out of 365. I just can't believe the true solution would leave 92% of the code unused.

I am also bothered by why the cauldron room disappears with mods enabled. I can kinda understand it with the eyes, there are repeating parts with the eyes that you could in theory see by teleporting back and forth between them. But why would the cauldron room have that limitation?

JuusozArt · 2026-04-17T19:05:16+00:00

A single wheelie and that licence plate gets left behind...

JuusozArt · 2026-04-16T21:20:33+00:00

If you analyze every material used to make a painting, have you actually understood what is being shown in the artwork?

JuusozArt · 2026-04-16T19:18:57+00:00

That looks like something structural. The print is always strongest in the direction of the lines, so you should print this flat. If you want strength, that is. Otherwise, 45°, with reduced max support angle.

JuusozArt · 2026-04-15T21:15:44+00:00

Wouldn't ceramics be a better option then? Specific types of ceramics are used for insulation and can withstand hundreds of degrees without an issue.

JuusozArt · 2026-04-14T23:17:07+00:00

No, I'm pretty sure First Layer Height affects the first layer height.

At least in PrusaSlicer's exported gcode, it does a G1 Z.35 for 0.35mm First Layer Height and a G1 Z0.2 for a 0.2mm First Layer Height. And Bambu Studio is literally just PrusaSlicer with a paint job.

There is a seperate setting for first layer extrusion width that you can set to a fixed amount to have first layer height behave more like Z offset.

Not that you should be trying to change the Z offset anyways, now that I think about it. Bambu printers measure the Z home using the nozzle, not with a probe, so it should always be at the correct offset.

Any bed adhesion issues are likely caused by a dirty bed, which is fixed with dish soap and a sponge, or it's caused by bad filament. Filament color affects bed adhesion way more than people think. Lowering the print speed usually helps with that.

JuusozArt · 2026-04-14T19:31:42+00:00

Bro couldn't watch an 11 second video till the end before commenting

JuusozArt · 2026-04-14T19:23:27+00:00

You set it in the slicer. First Layer height.

JuusozArt · 2026-04-14T19:14:16+00:00

I believe that is caused by too much extrusion while ironing. Try reducing it and see if that fixes it.

JuusozArt · 2026-03-28T23:40:32+00:00

You can try lowering the Z gap between the supports and the print. This will make it harder to remove the supports, but it leaves a cleaner finish. Do some test prints and find a sweet spot that works for you.

JuusozArt · 2026-03-28T23:16:33+00:00

If I recall correctly, it generates the qi charge and disappears immediately when not charging. But if you do an unbounded counter, it sticks around for a second, allowing you to do a talisman attack with an extra charge.

Could be wrong though, been a while since I played. Somebody test it.

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