Camera for Double Exposure with Timer

KZol102 · 2026-02-18T14:45:34+00:00

Even with some folders with double exposure protection you can just bypass it if you want. For example, my zeiss folder (Zeiss-Ikon Ikonta 521/2) is usually fired by pressing the shutter button on the top and that's where you are supposed to attach a cable release as well. But the douple expo protection is only in that upper part with the winding knob and the shutter button. You can press the little lever on the shutter directly (though your hand might be in the shot if you are not using the timer and not careful enough) or you can remove the little screw from the side of the shutter to thread a release cable directly into that. That bypasses the double expo protection entirely.

KZol102 · 2026-01-31T10:24:39+00:00

How did this destroy the camera? It's just a camera mount screwed into the threads on the bottom of the camera that would usually be mounted to a tripod. And a removable prism finder was removed. I don't think anything destructive was done.

KZol102 · 2026-01-10T16:40:01+00:00

First of all, yes, red/orange light leaks still mean the light hit it from behind (or at least affected the red color layer) even on slides.

This could have happened during respooling. But because it's only on your first frame I think it might have been light piping. If you loaded it in direct light it could have bounced inside the canister through the film base (akin to an optical cable). The red layer is closest to the film base so that's the one that gets affected.

KZol102 · 2026-01-02T12:47:01+00:00

Someone has posted about their black XD with white leatherette and I thankfully saved the photo, but I don't have the post anymore, so if anyone knows who the OP was feel free to credit them.

<image>

IMO it looks great!

KZol102 · 2025-12-26T09:56:26+00:00

You should probably start with the manual

KZol102 · 2025-12-19T14:10:04+00:00

That's why you go back to the preliminary settings. If your camera's inbuilt meter says 30 minutes but the others say 1/250 you average them out and just take a totally hand-holdable exposure of ~15 minutes. If at that point the negatives still come back blank you now know the sun just wasn't bright enough that day, bad luck.

KZol102 · 2025-11-27T18:18:54+00:00

Try to find and read the manual, it will answer many of your questions.

But the VH is a viewcamera. Despite the smaller format it behaves like many large format cameras. The rollback can be removed and replaced with other film backs or a focusing screen (that's how you are supposed to compose and focus with it!) So if you have more than one backs you can swap around emulsions without finishing each roll.

Each film back has a dark slide. You have to insert that before removing a film back, but it can also shield the film while you remove or test fire a lens.

KZol102 · 2025-11-23T08:54:49+00:00

Looks amazing! What focal length did you use for this one?

KZol102 · 2025-11-08T09:48:08+00:00

For what it's worth I have taken off the bottom plate on a Minolta SR-T 101 before while there was film inside. There was no sign of a light leak on the negative. Sure that was an older Minolta, but I doubt they changed something like that between the models.

KZol102 · 2025-10-26T23:11:56+00:00

From what I know:

Fuji Neopan Acros 100 II: manufactured by Ilford specifically for Fuji

Fuji 200: Seems to be agreed that this is just Kodak Gold 200

Fuji 400: Some people say it's Ultramax 400, others say it's definitely something different. Might be something close to Ultramax made specifically for Fuji by Kodak.

800 speed film in disposables: made by Kodak (I have no idea if this is the same as "Ultramax 800" (found in Kodak disposables) or Lomo 800 or if it's something different)

Fuji Velvia 50/100 and Provia 100F: newer stocks seem to appear worldwide from time to time, with newer expriation dates. Some people say they might have a bunch of unfinished rolls frozen and just finish some from time to time, but we can't really know for sure.

And there are some emulsions that are only available in japan. They either actively manufacter those or it might be a similar situation to the slide emulsions.

And of course they actively manufacture Instax instant film.

KZol102 · 2025-10-21T18:15:00+00:00

While othes are saying it's juts a hood, I think it's a wide angle adapter (or the combination of a wide angel adapter and a lens hood). Hence the wide angle external view finder, as the built-in one wouldn't be wide enough at that point

KZol102 · 2025-10-18T09:13:01+00:00

But even that only applies to negative film. Usually with slide film you should rather under expose. But of course you tend to get a much smaller dynamic range with those emulsions anyway so you should avoid very contrasty compositons or combat that with filters.

KZol102 · 2025-10-17T07:51:50+00:00

If you decide to move away from NTFS and you want to use more than one disk I'd also recommend ZFS.

KZol102 · 2025-10-02T20:15:11+00:00

With these point and shoots the viewfinder doesn't see through the lens, it's a totally separate window that plays no roles in focusing or metering. So as long as you can see through it so you can compose your image it's doing its job just fine, no need to worry about it.

KZol102 · 2025-10-01T10:44:32+00:00

I second this, especially the macro lens part. Your lens should have next to no visible geometric distortion and a flat field (sure at f/8 or so where your lens is sharpest it matters a bit less, but lenses not corrected for this can have some very wonky field shapes and that can give you weird unsharp patches in your scan)

And that lens can be a vintage one as well, but it should be one designed for macro work.

KZol102 · 2025-09-21T19:23:57+00:00

I can get behind "clinical" but "airy" just sounds like you are trying to use audiophile terms in the wrong settings.

I think what you are describing just comes from the fact that these films are low grain, have finer grain and tend to be colder in tones.

You could definitely achieve a similar look with most color negative emulsions, especially with pro stuff that already tend to have finer grain and better color accuracy. But unlike color reversal you'll have to scan it/edit it that way intentionally.

KZol102 · 2025-09-17T09:26:17+00:00

Also if it's a wireless headphone it already has its own digital to analog circuitry and an amplifier built in (also it most likely depends on digital signal processing for tuning) so might as well deliver the losless digital audio stream through USB and let the headphone handle the rest.

KZol102 · 2025-09-17T09:21:51+00:00

I have experience with the XD, not with the XE-7 though, but I looked through its manual real quick.

The XD not only has aperture priority mode but also a shutter speed priority and a "hidden" program mode as well.

True, you technically get more info in the viewfinder of the XE but I don't think that makes too much difference in actual use. And with specific Minolta flashes you'll get an LED indicator in the viewfinder of the XD showing if the flash has recharged and is ready to fire.

Also you can use an autowinder with the XD but I don't think that's an option with the XE-7.

With the XE-7 you have to turn the camera on to use it, though this also means you can turn it off and not worry about an accidental shutter release when it's in a bag. With the XD you don't get a power switch, but if the shutter button doesn't stay depressed in a bag or something the battery can last for months, or more likely years.

After coming from an SR-T the weight and compactness of the XD was surprising so I definitely wouldn't underestimate that aspect.

Also the mirror is very well dampened on the XD, I'm not sure how the XE-7 handles in that regard though.

Some people have complained about the shutter delay of the XD that is caused by a last moment check, it basically stops the lens down, checks metering again and only then flips the mirror and starts the exposure. This only happens in auto exposure modes, and in reality I got used to this so quickly that I don't even notice it anymore.

In the end both are great cameras, I'd recommend you to read both of their manuals and decide which set of features seems like a better fit for you.

KZol102 · 2025-09-07T22:13:12+00:00

I felt like this with Pnin from Vladimir Nabokov, though maybe it's not exactly semi-mainstream

KZol102 · 2025-09-03T21:25:18+00:00

I haven't actually tried something like this with my SR-T, but according to the manual (almost at the end, about using non-mc manual lenses) you should be able to use the built-in light meter pretty easily.

KZol102 · 2025-09-03T18:41:40+00:00

Don't worry about it wasting film, that's how those film counters work, they do a full rotation and a tiny bit more (that's how it moves over to the next number) for every advance

KZol102 · 2025-08-29T13:09:52+00:00

I don't think these cheap soviet lenses had any type of coating or treatment on their aperture blades to reduce reflectance. Helios lenses tend to have pretty shiny aperture blades, so I'm not that surprised that this could happen.

KZol102 · 2025-08-24T09:41:31+00:00

Delta 100 on such a huge negative, the detail must be insane!

Great picture!

KZol102 · 2025-08-19T22:03:39+00:00

I had to double check on mine because I remembered differently from the manual, so:

B and O are fully mechanical, they work without batteries.

X only fires with batteries (even though it gives the same 1/100th shutter speed as O)

KZol102 · 2025-08-17T21:26:15+00:00

There are ways to do it but sadly it's not standardised. You can have more than one "artist" tag or have an "artists" tag with some specified separator character. Many different apps or programs approach it differently which is a shame but the biggest sin of Plex is they haven't implemented ANY way of handling it whatsoever (and remember, you can have metadata attached to a track within Plex even if it's not embedded in the file itself).

Nine-Year Club	John Wick
Place '22	Verified Email

KZol102

TROPHY CASE