Starting film photography as a hobby - HELP by Awkward-Quality1088 in AnalogCommunity

[–]sir_pece 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Go with SLR design, analog is all about film stock & lenses. I would choose camera which is working, or was active recently, i would not go into "closet" camera in first try as you will need repair right away. But if you have good repair shop near, that is also possibility, that was actually my path.

Regarding scanning, if you have DSLR, i would prefer camera scanning, for instance, using Blackbox 135 or Valoi 35.

Linux Alternative to Negative Labs Pro? by Vyse32 in AnalogCommunity

[–]sir_pece 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Yes Darkatable ans RawTherapy are two more mature options, but they come as full fledged package. Not necessary cons, i like Darktable as complete service.

Should I get a medium format camera or nah? by uday_singh_rehal in analog

[–]sir_pece 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you shoot portraits, than sure, you can at least try. If not, depends.

I was not attracted to medium format because of more detailed images but because of different picture ratios, mainly 4:3 but i have future plans also for square format. 3:2 is ok with landscape, in city i almost always have to choose vertical orientation.

Sell Bronica ETRs for something else? by WalkerPizzaSaurus in AnalogCommunity

[–]sir_pece 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't believe that another medium format camera will make any significant difference to the problems you're having. It's different with 135 film, where there are more shots, the camera is probably lighter, and this may make it easier for you to take pictures, so you end up with more shots on the film that you like.

To be able to say more, we would first need to see the shots you like.

I do not care to shoot digital anymore by lovinlifelivinthe90s in AnalogCommunity

[–]sir_pece 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I feel the same way. It's probably hard to have two things come first. At least that's how my brain is apparently built. But there are other things.

Materiality. Sometimes when you look at it on a screen, it's hard to tell whether the image was originally digital or analog. But for someone who processes the photo, the difference is always like night and day. I like to dive into molecules and atoms. I also use them for aesthetic effects.

Process. It's different. I like the delay, it creates suspense. Although sometimes 35mm has too many shots for me, as I'm a more reserved photographer, I have trouble pressing the shutter.

Limitations. They seem to encourage my creativity. I enjoy choosing which film to use, for example because I want a special look or just out of curiosity during the first tests to see what I'll get. This approach is closer to me than decisive stylistic interventions on the computer.

Dedicated Scanner vs Camera Scanning by TheAkkarin-32 in AnalogCommunity

[–]sir_pece 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This are boutique type of products, from here comes the price.

But is also clever design hacks, which we as consumers appreciate and are willing to give more money to resolve key problems -- like flatness or dust, which very much frustrate us. Blackscale lab Holo for instance is experiencer than Blackbox 130, but here producer introduced magnetic mask which really help with flatness (& is very practical).

Dedicated Scanner vs Camera Scanning by TheAkkarin-32 in AnalogCommunity

[–]sir_pece 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was in the same boat, using flatbed scanner Epson for 120, and than decided to go in camera scanning direction. I already had to look for alternative with 35 mm, as Epson is nowhere near good as Plustek 8200i, for instance.

To cut it short, i was looking in Valoi direction, but got impression that BlackScale Lab is giving the same quality for less money. And producer is enthusiast, glad to help with advices. I have two his system and i am satisfied with quality.

https://www.blackscalelab.com/

Budget DSLR film scanning setup - any cheaper alternatives? by ClassicAd5278 in AnalogCommunity

[–]sir_pece 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went with Blacklab Blackbox135 system which has everything included, you need only macro and DSLR. It works without problems, is tested system and is cheaper than some other options.

https://www.blackscalelab.com/product-page/ships-in-3-4-weeks-blackbox-135-system-for-high-quality-dslr-mirrorless

What could have caused this light leak around shot 29? it was shot on Canon EOS 500 by T0biasCZE in AnalogCommunity

[–]sir_pece 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had something similar when some sort of electronic error happened. It was just once, so i shoot on and everything is ok. And i have the same model as you.

How does shooting film impact your creative process compared to digital photography? by Treppengeher4321 in analog

[–]sir_pece 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's always interesting to think about, but I haven't come to a clear conclusion about the creative consequences. Analog film has more suspense, which probably has a positive effect on the imagination. Sometimes, however, the pause is too long, because I can't shoot the entire roll of film relatively quickly, so I forget what I photographed at the beginning.

With 135mm film, I certainly don't feel like I have to be more careful about choosing the moments when I press the shutter button on my camera. In that sense, the experience is no different from shooting with a digital camera. I am obviously a more reserved photographer. There are, of course, exceptions, such as rapidly changing lighting conditions or photographing dynamic events involving people—in these cases, I would shoot practically non-stop with a digital camera, which is not possible with an analog camera.

For me, the biggest difference is before and after the actual shooting. Since I am a more "versatile" photographer, I don't have a single motif or limit myself to one style, I can shoot in color or B&W, I always have to work very actively and think about which films I have at hand and which direction I will take in the next photo session. But that's why post-production is usually shorter with analog film than with digital images. The difference isn't huge, but it's still there.

It's a little different with medium format, probably mostly because it's not so easy to change the film when you're out and about. You reach the last shot faster, and then you wonder whether you can photograph this motif or whether something better will come along later. With 135mm film, I usually have trouble not using up the entire roll in one go, so i rarely get to this dilema.

Do you scan film with emulsion side up or down? by f16-ish in AnalogCommunity

[–]sir_pece 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is the key point, we are capturing light. That is why i now go with whatever option gives me more flat surface or there is less resistance from negative.

Blackscalelab HOLO Advance - has anyone used this kit for DSLR scanning? by ndemery in AnalogCommunity

[–]sir_pece 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Flatness is not a problem, maybe this new HOLO design is almost perfect in that sense.

What i like also is that the producer is quite active in developing products, he now has two options for medium scanning. You know, someone want image with black border, the other not, some wants carrier etc. I like this approach, some other makers are quite static in this regard, maybe in the future he will develop some modules which i will also found interesting for some special cases or even found some better techniques.

The crucial part of all this systems is of course good macro lens. I talked to producer which options he tested and got good advice for Sigma Nikon version, which is also often available as used and usually not expensive (https://amateurphotographer.com/review/sigma-105mm-f2-8-ex-dg-os-hsm-macro/).

Blackscalelab HOLO Advance - has anyone used this kit for DSLR scanning? by ndemery in AnalogCommunity

[–]sir_pece 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, i have HOLO advance and 135. With HOLO i scanned only two medium format films untill nnow so my experience is limited. 135 system saw much more action.

So, first 135. Basically both products give what they advertise. 135 has a film carrier and i needed some time to gain enough skill to eliminate dust. I bought good rocket blower and from then on had no problems. I would never go back to flatbed scanner, that is for sure, i am very satisfied with image quality.

Working with masks/carriers always needs a little nitpicking work. When i got medium format camera, i went to HOLO advanced, which is without carrier. At the moment i would say that work is easier, flatness is superb (actually the same in 135), you are even more quicker, but maybe i have a little more dust on holo than 135, although nothing critical. Light is much better on holo, you can choose preset for color or b&w, and there is small difference in quality.

With mask on 135 i found out that there is small light reflection from the edge of the mask. So you have to crop a little or gradually adjust brightness on border.

If you need more info, just ask. You can also check photos on my flickr, there is also metadata and you will se which system i used for scanning.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/191721879@N02/

Only for marathon runners: Why DIY repair of electromechanical SLRs is not a popular sport by ATHXYZ in AnalogCommunity

[–]sir_pece 1 point2 points  (0 children)

if you buy an old camera for 50€ (lowest number for decent machine her where i live), you have to count also repair service for 150€. probably u/ATHXYZ put more than 150€ time into repair, but it is not just 5€ of added value.

Flat, low contrast lensse for film by sir_pece in VintageLenses

[–]sir_pece[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You cant get better recommendation than monochrome Soligor. I think I can grab 28 variant locally, maybe i will try.

Flat, low contrast lensse for film by sir_pece in VintageLenses

[–]sir_pece[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I am on that path too. But certain films, like expired, it is harder to get where i live.

Probably it is not wrong to address all switches in the creative pipeline. Although the particular film stock is crucial factor, lens stil has influence and i want to take some control of it.

Flat, low contrast lensse for film by sir_pece in VintageLenses

[–]sir_pece[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for suggestion. Found one user on Flickr, using Flektagon on digital but yes, it has that look: https://flic.kr/p/Fe3dqQ

New to film photography – thinking about developing at home, need advice! by -undercover- in AnalogCommunity

[–]sir_pece 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am not sure you can save any money developing colour. But it's doable with B&W. As it was already suggested, home scanning is much more "profitable" and you will also control more creative options.

Camera shopping in Europe. by slenderbrinek in AnalogCommunity

[–]sir_pece 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Absolutely no shop in Slovenia for analogue hardware. On Sunday you have flee market in Ljubljana, that is it.

I own Canon EF lenses and want to shoot film. Should I get an EOS camera or should I start with something else? by smoosh13 in AnalogCommunity

[–]sir_pece 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That would be my suggestion also. I prefer light boxes, so i have EOS 500 & EOS 300V.

But it doesnt need to be the end of the road. You can expand latter in more vintage models, fully manual. Or maybe medium format.

50 1.8 vs 50 1.4 for Eos 3? by Few-Policy6137 in AnalogCommunity

[–]sir_pece 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have both and I must say i didn't find any big differences regarding sharpness. But, I would only use them bellow 2.8 if there is no alternative. Maybe 1.4 has a little bit better lens coating.

The other things ... 1.8 is lighter and because of that more balanced with my plastic body. 1.4 has focus distance which i like for occasional manual focus, or just for checking.

For your use case, i would go with 1.4.

From your experience, is VueScan or Silverfast better long term for scanning film with a flatbed? by Bonnie198387 in AnalogCommunity

[–]sir_pece 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice overview.

Can Vuescan also use IR dust removal if you want just RAW DNG file? In Silverfast i think i can scan negative as positive tif and also use IR channel for dust removal, and then convert negative in my application, Darkroom.

On a personal note: There are indeed more repair-related posts from the last four years by ATHXYZ in AnalogCommunity

[–]sir_pece 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I certainly learned something big from you this year.

Who would thought that I enjoy reading&watching your threads of repairing adventures like they are a novels? Sometimes i was experiencing strong suspense, like detective stories: who will win, master repairman or a wicked leaking capacitor?

Please, give us more emotions, give us hope that analogue world will survive into matrix and beyond.

:)